Tasting Notes: Merlots and Merlot-Based Blends

I don't have the exact date for this tasting, but I think it was Nov. 6. I've skipped over the blind tasting, because my notes are designed to help me identify the wines, not describe them. They're less detailed and more idiosyncratic than my normal notes, and they wouldn't make for good reading--assuming any of my notes ever do.

(Yes, I've posted my blind tasting notes in the past, but this time I really focused on identifying the wines and not on taking descriptive notes. Maybe that's why I landed Stimmels' first ever perfect score! Does this mean you can trust my palate? No, probably not--at least, not beyond my ability to tell a gossamer pinot noir from an oozing shiraz, and maybe a level or two in between. If anything, it just means I'm a decent test taker.)

Anyway, on to the Merlot notes:

1. Chateau Haut Surget Lalande de Pomerol 2003
Simple, decent, medium-bodied red, with aromas and flavors of plum, cranberry, and leathery earth. Moderate tannins.

2. Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2003
A touch tart, a touch tannic, this red would work well with a fatty dish like prime rib or even a richly-sauced salmon filet. Dark and earthy, with blackberry, spice, and tobacco flavors, and a nice crescendo of vanilla on the finish.

3. Dunham Cellars Trutina 2005
Definitely a new-world merlot, this red from Washington state is full-bodied and sweetly ripe--at first. An enticing nose of blackberry, black earth, spicy tar, and violets gives way to similar flavors, laced with orange-spiced dark chocolate and a finish suggestive of citrus essence. There is some undesirable tartness on the mid-palate, though. Like it. Don't love it.

4. Kathryn Kennedy Lateral 2003
There's a flavor in wines that I have trouble putting into words, so I just call it "Napa," since it's present in so many Napa wines. The closest I can come to describing it is to call it a cross between herbaceousness and earthiness--with maybe some aromatic spice thrown in. Anyway, this exceptionally smooth, medium-full-bodied merlot has "Napa" in spades, not to mention some deliciously rich cassis, spice, and eucalyptus notes. Very good.

5. Flora Springs Napa Valley Merlot 2002
This merlot, at six years old, seems to have begun its descent. The fruit is beginning to taste just a touch raisiny, but there are still some very nice pepper and spice notes. Don't wait to drink this one--maybe with a nice lamb tagine, for which the raisin-y note could in fact be an asset.

Tasting Notes (Oct. 16): Wicked, Good Wines

Tonight's theme of "good vs. evil" gives new meaning to the term "wicked good." Here are the notes:

1. Chateau les Religieuses 2003
This is a very solid, though not mind-blowing, right-bank Bordeaux. It boasts a medium-full body, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, spice, damp leaves, and toast. The fruit is slightly tart, but the finish is long and tinged with an intriguing iron note.

2. Redemption Zin 2005
This is a big, juicy, full-bodied wine, with peppery, wild berry aromas and flavors of sweet cherry, rhubarb, and tobacco--all sheathed in rich vanilla. Think sweet barbecue.

3. Grant Burge "Holy Trinity" 2002
This smooth, full-bodied, ultra-sensuous wine comes at you with unmistakable aromas of dark berries, musk, and soy sauce. Sweetly ripe, it boasts big raspberry fruit, lots of pepper, and--as the nose forecasts--distinct notes of musk and soy. I have to admit that this almost over-ripe style of Aussie wine is not my favorite, but it's well done within that style. Try it for yourself.

4. Two Hands Angels Share Shiraz 2004
Most wine websites put an apostrophe before the "s" in "Angels," but there's not one on the label. Personally, I like the ambiguity of the apostrophe-less version. I also like this wine. It's classic shiraz: Full-bodied, with blackberry, pepper, spice, olive, and vanilla notes. Predictable? Perhaps. Beautifully executed? Absolutely.

5. "Evil" Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
This inexpensive cabernet ($10-12, if memory serves) boasts simple, juicy flavors and aromas of sweet cranberry with a touch of leather. Moderate tannins provide some grip and hold up the fruit nicely. Better than the 2006 vintage. A good value.

6. Trio Infernal Cuvee No. 1/3 2004
This Spanish blend of Garnacha (Grenache) and Carignan is full-bodied and smooth, with rich, enticing aromas and flavors of black cherry, licorice, tar, and toasty oak. Assertive tannins are still young; this wine drinks very well now but will be even better in 2-3 years.

7. Four Vines "The Heretic" Petit Syrah
This wine is rich, plump, and juicy, with easy-to-love flavors of dark berries, chocolate, spice, and cedar. Very nice.

Tasting Notes (Oct. 23): 7 (Awsome) Varietals

I haven't been to a tasting in two weeks, but I suppose that's a good thing: no more of my notes have been piling up as my semester has spun wildly out of control in terms of workload. (In case you don't know and do care, for my day job I'm a professor, and this year I've had to jump over the many, high, work-multiplying hurdles that constitute the "third year review" for professors who--you guessed it--are in their third year). That's mostly over, I'm happy to say, and so, despite having many other irons in the proverbial fire, I should be able to find time to start catching up on my tasting notes.

And, for those of you who may have allowed yourselves to imagine that it is mere laziness on my part that has kept me from posting, you must also know that--my ego being what it is--I would never allow something as petty as being inhumanly busy keep me from bragging to the world that I nailed the last blind tasting, with a perfect 7 of 7 correct. But even that post is going to have to wait. It's not that I have any great reverence for putting my notes up in the order I took them, though that's been my M.O. It's just that, tonight, I'm at home, and the only set of tasting notes I have handy are the following ones.

But one last, quick word before I get to the notes. If you read this blog even remotely regularly, then you know two things about my notes. First, you know that, as a rule, I look for positive things to say about the wines I review. Second, you know that, on a rare occasion, saying something positive about a wine, or even offering an indifferent report of its qualities, is not possible. Why do I bring this up? Because this lineup was one of those amazing ones where every wine was at least good, with a few being real knockouts. I wouldn't want you to think my excessive praise of tonight's wines was feigned. It isn't. They're that good.

And now, the notes:

1. Zind Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim Heimbourg 2006 ($42.99/bottle)
The snappy acidity and taut minerality of this medium-bodied riesling hold fresh flavors of fuji apple and key lime in wonderfully poised, delicate suspension. The incredibly long, stony finish tastes like rain on limestone. Try this with boiled German-style sausages.

2. Hitchin Post "Highlighner" Pinot Noir 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Good acidity bouoys the rich, dark notes of black cherry, earth, and black licorice that define the palate. Medium-bodied and beautifully silky, with a finish that hints at medicinal herb. Very good.

3. Olek-Mery Chinon Cuvee des Tireaux 2004 ($26.99/bottle)
This medium- to full-bodied, cab franc-based red from France's Loire Valley boasts flavors and aromas of cherry and dark berry, roasted poblano peppers, and a veritable cloud of dust. This is a mood wine--something to break out if you're feeling austere and Old World. Or if you're having roast pork tacos.

4. Novelty Hill Merlot Columbia Valley 2004 ($23.99/bottle)
This is a really nice merlot. Chocolatey, spicey, and even a bit leathery, it is rich and mouthfilling. The long finish is all blueberry until, at about 45 seconds, the mineral notes begin to come out.

5. Paraiso Syrah "Wedding Hill" 2001 (47.99/bottle)
With aromas of dark berries, smoke, leather, and animal, and full-bodied flavors of sweet berry fruit, pepper, leather, and grilled meat, this syrah is every bit as rugged and masculine as its French counterpart, Hermitage. For a food pairing, think spit-roasted boar. Or, if you're a normal human, grilled steak. A great wine.

6. Rosenblum Zinfandel "Snows Lake Vineyard" 2005 ($37.99/bottle)
Rich, but not over the top, with ripe, rich aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, chocolate, spice, and bramble. Nicely balanced for a big zin.

7. Soos Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2002 ($34.99/bottle)
This cab is nice, spicy, and big, with a rich nose of currant, plum, choclate, and oak, and flavors of sweet currant, plum, spice, leather, and chocolate. Lush and tasty.

Tasting Notes (Oct. 2): By the Numbers

All the wines for this tasting have numbers in their names. I give it a "10."

The notes:

1.Vinos de Terrunos "Siete" 2007 (Spain; $11.99/bottle)
This wine can be described as tinto fino flavors on a pinot noir frame. Light- to medium-bodied, with bright, uplifting acidity, it offers flavors of black cherry and tar, with leather and menthol emerging on the finish. This would be nice with grilled or roasted salmon. Good value.

2. Four Graces Pinot Noir 2006 (Oregon; $29.99/bottle)
This tasty pinot noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley is light- to medium-bodied, with deep, earthy, smoky nuances providing welcome depth to the bright fruit and buoyant acidity.

3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (California; $21.99/bottle)
This full-bodied brute does indeed have a sophisticated side, with a complex array of vanilla, black pepper, toasted spice, and chocolate adding nuance to the rich black raspberry fruit. One of my favorite zins.

4. Clos de los Siete 2005 (Argentina; $17.99/bottle)
This wine looks almost black in the glass, and the sight foreshadows what's to come: blackberry, black plum, tar, earth, and leather flavors infuse this medium-to-full-bodied red. Well-integrated tannins provide structure and grip. This could stay in the bottle another 2-3 years, but it's drinking nicely now. A great value.

5. L'Ecole No. 41 Apogee 2003 (Washington; $45.99/bottle)
This velvety, full-bodied Bordeaux style blend from Washington's Walla Walla valley is suffused with deeply aromatic, enticing sweet currant, cherry, leather, oak, and cinnamon flavors and aromas. The finish has a wonderful eucalyptus (eucalyptic?) quality. Very nice.

6. Hollywood and Vine 2480 2004 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This beautiful, full-bodied cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley was the star of tonight's lineup. It is satiny smooth, with bold, fine tannins and big but elegant notes of blackberry, oak, leather, spicy pepper, and coffee. Drinking beautifully now, it will nevertheless continue to harmonize for 5-7 or more years.

7. Marquis Phillips 9 2004 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
Marquis Phillips is one of those producers, like "R" Wines, whose wines always seem to outperform their price point. And, since M.P.'s wines tend to be more expensive than "R" Wines,' that's saying something. The "9" doesn't disappoint, with beautifully balanced flavors and aromas of blackberry, damp black earth, wet stone, black olive, and peppery spice. As you might expect, this shiraz is superripe and very full-bodied.

Tasting Notes (Sept. 25): Italian Wines and Lurker Call-Out

You know how I feel about Italian wines. Enough said.

So, in lieu of a prefatory post, I'll just note that, not having access to any diagnostics (I am not this blog's owner, only a contributor), I have a hard time knowing who reads this blog. Beyond a few close friends who tell me from time to time that they caught a post, that is. So, if you're a "lurker" (as I am on several other blogs!), here's your chance--no, your charge: let me know you're here. It doesn't need to be anything profound. Even a simple "Hi!" would be fine with me. And if you just stumbled by here for the first time, we'd love to hear from you, too.

Now, the notes:

1. Torricino Greco di Tufo 2007 ($19.99/bottle)
This was my first wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape, and I liked it. Straw yellow, it reminds me of a cross between a crisp Chardonnay and a flinty Sauvignon Blanc. Light and zippy with acidity, it has clean citrus and tropical fruit notes, racy minerality, and a touch of nuttiness.

2. La Carraia Fobiano 1999 ($34.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautifully earthy, spicy nose, with tart, crisp black cherry, earth, and tobacco notes on the palate. It's not overly complex, but what's there is very good and would be even better with a rich, creamy cheese.

3. La Mozza Aragone 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
(Note: I did not read the Wine Advocate tasting notes, which also describe the wine as "brooding," until after I wrote my own. I almost never do.) This dark ruby red sangiovese-based blend has a dark, brooding nose of berries, violets, and (oddly) something like burnt sulfur. This same burnt note comes through on the palate, though the fruit, which is tart but ripe, shines. My notes are surprisingly consistent with Wine Advocate's, which note "scorched earth" instead of burnt sulfur. The only difference is that the WA critic (Galloni?) liked the scorchiness, and I didn't. I'd like to re-taste this one to see if my notes are consistent.

4. Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo 2003 ($42.99/bottle)
This is a beautiful Chianti. Medium-bodied and smooth as a just-waxed Ferrari, it boasts flavors of sweetly ripe black cherry, new leather, and spice, with a dark chocolate note emerging on the finish. Fine tannins and moderate acidity provide ample structure to hold the flavors up. This would be an extremely versatile food wine.

5. Villalta Amarone Classico "I Comunali" 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
So dark it's almost opaque, this Amarone nevertheless shows restraint on the palate, with full-bodied but not over-the-top flavors of plum, dark berries, white pepper, dust, and a slight meatiness. The long finish reveals a wonderful walnut note. Very nice, but will be even better in 3-5 years.

6. Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
Noting a deep brownish red, almost rusty color, I thought maybe this eight-year-old Brunello--a region whose best wines are legendary for their aging potential--could already be over the hill. But the aromas and flavors quickly set me straight. Ultra-smooth despite still-young tannins, it offers lively and well-harmonized berry, tar, oak, and violet flavors and aromas. This is one for the cellar, but in as few as 3-5 years it will be fantastic.

7. Giacomo Ascheri Barolo Podere di Sorano 2001 (59.99/bottle)
Neither the nose nor the palate gives up much, with some faint floral and oak notes, but the palate does have a richness and depth that suggests this one shouldn't be counted out just yet. It will only be after the vault of tannin finally opens (it's on a time-release, of course) that we'll know more. Try again in 3-5 years.

Tasting Notes (Sept. 18): Que Syrah Syrah

Since I've gone to the more stripped down tasting notes for the time being (minus lengthy introductory comments), I've also decided to use the always clever Stimmel's titles to head my posts. (Where, before, I would come up with my own titles for entries.) This week's is one of my favorites.

The notes (as the title for the tasting reflects, all wines except the first one are composed entirely, or nearly entirely, of syrah):

1. Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005 (France/Southern Rhone; $89.99/bottle)
This incredibly sensual, medium-bodied blend of Roussanne and white Grenache is dense with aromas and flavors of lemon curd, almonds, and bitter essential oils and has a long, nutty, minerally finish. Try this with meaty fish, like swordfish.

2. E. Guigal St. Joseph 2003 (France/Northern Rhone; $26.99/bottle)
This St. Joseph has a big nose of blackberries, lavender scrub, and earthy barnyard notes. On the full side of medium-bodied, it boasts spicy, peppery, and mineral-tinged flavors, with the scrub from the nose re-emerging (and the pepper intensifying) on the finish. Though the fruit could be just a bit fuller, this is a nice way into a good Northern Rhone wine for comparatively little money.

3. Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley 2002 (Washington; $31.99/bottle)
This syrah from Washington is the very epitome of a "New World" wine: full-bodied, rich, and boldly-flavored, with ripe plum, baking spice, and vanilla aromas and flavors. Still, these notes are nicely integrated, giving the wine a sense of balance that keeps it from going over the top. Nice.

4. Finca Sandoval 2002 (Spain/Castilla-La Mancha; $36.99/bottle)
The nose on this syrah blend from Spain's Castilla-La Mancha region (think Don Quixote) tells you right away that you're in for a special treat, with waves of plum, smoke, licorice, and earth emanating from the glass. On the palate, it is full-bodied and smooth as worn flannel, with flavors of sweet plum, earth, and rich tobacco. The long, hedonistic finish finds the licorice from the nose re-emerging. A beautiful wine.

5. Red Car Shake Rattlle and Roll 2005 (California; $59.99/bottle)
Another gorgeous syrah--what a lineup! The Red Car is truly the best of both worlds--Old and New, that is. Rich and full-bodied, it boasts flavors of ripe cherries, plums, and chocolate, with Cote-Rotie-like nuances of smoke and cured meats. The finish is long and--considering the ripeness of the fruit--wonderfully vibrant. Outstanding.

6. Oliver Hill Jimmy Section Shiraz 2005 (Australia/McLaren Vale; $35.99/bottle)
I've been a fan of the Jimmy Section for a while now, and what's not to like? Aussie-big and fruity, the nose offers black and blue berries, oak, and baking spices, with the faintest hint of black olive (but not the overripe kind one often finds in high end Aussie Shirazes). Flavors of dark fruit, licorice, and pepper are assertive but nicely balanced, making this very full-bodied, massively structured shiraz a joy to drink now, though it will continue to evolve in the bottle for up to 10 more years. The only off note: despite the wine's massive proportions, the 15% + alcohol can create a little heat, especially if the wine isn't kept on the cooler side of room temperature.

Tasting Notes (Sept. 11): Around the World (Abridged Version)

While normally I try to include some kind of introductory comments to my tasting notes, there are times during my real job that compel me to streamline wherever I can, including the Stimmel's blog. So, for a few weeks anyway, I'm going with straight notes, free from introductory commentary. (My sense is that the notes are what people come for anyway--or, at least, that's my hope.)

1. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 (France/Bordeaux; $130.99/bottle)
This is one of those wines you're excited to drink even though you know it's a crime to do it a mere three years after the vintage. Still, this very nice Bordeaux has a beautiful nose of currant, dried cranberry, leather, earth, and a touch of gravel. Despite being a young, tannic beast, it still gives hints of what it will be in 8-10 years: a dark, rich, earthy, silky beauty of a wine. Definitely one for the cellar.

2. Mateic EQ Syrah 2005 (Chile; $29.99/bottle)
This syrah immediately puts one in mind of the wines of the northern Rhone (though at a fraction of the cost of most good ones): medium-bodied, with meaty, peppery, and dusty berry and mineral flavors, it simply screams for a nice roasted leg of lamb, or even beef kebabs.

3. Scala Dei Cartoixa 2001 (Spain; $59.99/bottle)
This one is an all-around beautiful wine. It starts with aromas blackberry, licorice, coffee, and a hint of fragrant toasted almond. Medium-full bodied, with a wonderfully satiny mouthfeel, with enticingly earthy and aromatic flavors of dark, spicy fruit, with a bolt of anise up front and a dash of new leather on the finish. Very good now (think steak), but should continue to harmonize for another 3-5 years.

4. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001 (Italy; $59.99/bottle)
The brownish tint gives this wine away as the consummate old-world red, with a very sensual nose of barnyard, crushed violet, and chocolate, and silky smooth, full bodied flavors of black plum, cedar, tobacco, and a hint of dusty cocoa. Nicely integrated tannins and surprisingly buoyant acidity will give this very nice wine another 2-4 years' cellaring potential, though if it were in my cellar right now, I'd pop it tomorrow with an equally indulgent plate of duck ragout with wild mushrooms.

5. Showket Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This Cab's very ripe, fruity nose is underscored by subtle earthy notes. Full bodied, with nice grip and flavors of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, bramble, and mint. This is a very nice wine.

6. Schild Barossa Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $28.99/bottle)
This is not your run-of-the-mill Aussie Shiraz, with an intensely musky nose and flavors of super-ripe blueberry, black olive, smoke, and musk. While it might not be my first choice for a day-in, day-out quaffer, I have to give it credit for taking a chance and actually being a sensual, even sense-challenging, wine. Definitely one to pop with grilled red meats.

7. Adelsheim Pinot Noir Deglace 2006 (Oregon; $34.99/bottle)
Dessert wines seem to be en vogue right now, so we shouldn't be surprised to see American producers trying them with grapes not normally associated with sweet wines (for another fun example, look for Meeker's Fro-Zin, a Zinfandel-based dessert wine). Such efforts tend to be hit or miss, but this one--while not earth-shattering--is quite nice, with aromas and flavors of baked cherries and enough acidity to keep the whole affair from being too heavy.

Tasting Notes (Aug. 28): Semantics Edition

Tonight’s tasting theme was “decadence defined.” Now, it just so happens that "decadence" is one of those words I’ve been keeping my eye on. In the last 30 or so years (in other words, since I’ve been old enough to pay attention), there have been a few words whose meanings have changed right before our eyes. Take “literally,” for example. I have always been taught that it meant "actually." But, to a number of people—and it sure seems like that number has been steadily increasing, though I’ll concede that, as I’ve become a more astute observer of language, I may simply notice it more—“literally” is essentially a word that marks an extreme or intense state. So, for example, the statement, “I was so mad I literally hit the roof,” could be taken to mean that you really went on top of your house, made a fist (or perhaps you’re a martial arts, open-hand type), and smacked your shingles. But for most people it just means “I was extremely mad.”

And so it is with “decadence.” At some point during the Reagan ‘80’s (probably about the same point it seemed like a good idea to make the film Wall Street), the meaning of “decadence” shifted from “being in a state of decay, either caused by or symptomized by (or both) conspicuous and extreme excess” (think Roman vomiting troughs and orgiastic parties) to “extremely desirable—due to conspicuous and extreme excess.”

Obviously, it’s this second term that applies to tonight’s tasting. But I can’t help wondering what it says about our culture that conspicuous, extreme excess continues to be considered, almost thirty years after the Reagan era began, a sign of fine living rather than an indication that the whole idea of the rags-to-riches American Dream has jumped the shark.

As for this tasting, what saves it for me in the end is that, despite its title, the wines in the lineup really aren’t decadent so much as they are rich and full-bodied (Ok, the prices may be decadent, but that’s why we have small samples of these wines and then go buy a tasty $9.99 bottle of Chilean Cab Sauv.) The Standish Shiraz comes closest—Wine Advocate calls it “opulent”—though even it cannot touch the outrageously syrupy, oozing nectar that is Mollydooker’s “Carnival of Love.” Talk about decadent. (As I said when I reviewed it, you should try it if you have a chance, but it’s almost too much to take.) In fact, the next closest wine in the lineup to being decadent—the “Clio” from El Nido—is definitely ripe and rich, but it is also so superbly balanced and precisely focused that it does not seem excessive at all when you drink it.

I don’t mean to quibble with Bill about terms: a) it’s his store, and he runs the show, and b) I’m sure the actual name for the theme of the tasting is of exceedingly minor importance compared to the formidable task of assembling such a marvelous lineup of rich, full-bodied wines. Indeed, this post may seem like a lot of energy to devote to something as ho-hum as word choice for a wine tasting theme, and you might even be thinking by now (if you haven’t stopped reading altogether), “Who cares?” I do, for one. Before I was a half-cocked amateur wine critic I was, and am, a professor of rhetoric. It’s in my nature to pay attention to the sometimes extraordinary meanings that inhere in mundane language, as well as to share what I find with others. And, if you have made it this far into this post, then I have done what I set out to do: there’s no way, after today, that you’ll ever hear the word “decadent” again without giving it at least a second thought.

Now, the notes:

1. Merryvale Profile 2002 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine has a great nose, with cassis, baked cherry, leathery spice, and just the right amount of toasty oak. The full-bodied palate reveals young, dark flavors of black cherry, bitter leather, chocolate, and spice with big, scratchy tannins dominating the profile (no pun intended). This is a wine to come back to in 3-5 years to see if it has come into balance, because if it does, it's going to be a knockout.

2. Lagier Meredith Syrah 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
The nose on this mountain-grown Syrah is big and fruity, with ripe plums and berries supporting secondary notes of spice and creamy vanilla. Full-bodied, with wonderfully bright acidity, it offers flavors of dark berries and black pepper with an enticing eucalyptus note on the finish. The tannins are nicely integrated. Try this syrah with grilled meat.

3. Conn Valley Right Bank 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
"Right Bank" refers to the right bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux, where blends tend to be based on Merlot instead of Cabernet Sauvignon. And this wine is surprisingly Bordeaux-like, with earth and leather coming through on the nose and flavors of tart but ripe plum, tobacco, soil, and a hint of black licorice. Full-bodied with soft tannins, this is a beautiful wine that would pair perfectly with lamb or prime rib.

4. El Nido Clio 2005 ($59.99/bottle)
The nose on this very rich Monastrell blend from Jumilla, Spain makes you think it's going to be way over-the-top, even (dare I say?) decadent, with aromas of super-ripe crushed blueberries, vanilla, cream, and toasty spice. Nevertheless, the voluptuous but well-structured palate displays breathtaking balance, even finesse, with an almost refreshingly minty finish that makes you want another sip. You could drink this masterpiece of a wine with food, but why would you want to?

5. The Standish Shiraz 2003 ($79.99/bottle)
This Aussie Shiraz is big, thick and almost over-ripe. The nose offers pronounced aromas of caramelized sugar, smoke, and soft black olives, while the palate shows dark flavors of ripe blackberry, black olive, and a blast of black pepper. This wine is definitely indulgent, and it does a nice job as such, but it would be hard to justify buying a bottle when I know it's in the same price range as D'Arenberg's nearly perfect Dead Arm Shiraz and a number of other stunningly rich and balanced Aussie Shirazes.

6. Caldwell Red Wine 2004 ($104.99/bottle)
This nice, dark, full-bodied red shows flavors and aromas of very ripe, smoky plum, oak, and black olive, with some licorice on the finish.

7. Presidential NV 20-Year Port ($46.99/bottle)
Once you get past the formiddable alcohol (20%), there is a beautifully aromatic and tasty blend of caramel, vanilla, and orange/gran marnier waiting. A definite choice for those NW Ohio winters.

Tasting Notes (July 24): Stag's Leap

While I don't know for sure, I feel safe in saying that this tasting was the most geographically specific one in Stimmels' history. The Stag's Leap American Viticultural Area (AVA) is actually a tiny sub-region inside the already-smallish Napa Valley in California. Located along a short stretch of the Vaca mountain range, which forms the eastern border of the valley, Stag's Leap is home to some of my favorite wineries anywhere, not the least of which is the legendary Stag's Leap Wine Cellars--whose flagship "S.L.V." Cabernet Sauvignon stunned the wine world in 1976 by besting a slew of top French Bordeauxs in the infmaous "judgment of Paris." Unfortunately, the S.L.V. couldn't be a part of this lineup, and my other favorite Stag's Leap Cab, from Regusci, had been poured too recently to be included. Still, this was a great night of wine, and I have to say that, while the Shafer was clearly the best wine overall, the Stags' Leap Winery's (note: not the same as the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, but rather a different winery altogether) Petit Syrah (normally spelled Petit Sirah) was a brilliant offering as well.

Now the notes:

1. Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
If memory serves, this was the only wine in the lineup not at least partially sourced from Stag's Leap (which, as I understand it, is too cool to produce great Sauv Blancs). The classic nose shows citrus, grass, and a subtle chive note. Light-medium bodied, with a pleasingly bold shock of acidity animating fresh, clean citrus and herbal flavors. The finish has an interesting minerally tinge. I tasted several Sauv Blancs in Napa Valley recently, and many of them were flabby and uninteresting. Not this one. Seek it out.

2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2006 ($33.99/bottle)
This medium bodied Chard is made in a crisp style, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, minerals, and smoke. A light touch of butter adds depth without weighing the wine down. Perfect for Lobster--which I know you (yeah, you) eat all the time!

3. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
SLWC is known for its Merlot, so I was excited to try this one. The nose doesn't disappoint, with a complex mix of spicy plum, oak, pencil lead, and dry brown dirt. Flavors of tart but ripe plums, tar and earth, however, are virtually sandblasted away by scratchy tannins. If the fruit holds out, this could still be a nice wine in a few years. Let's hope. Try this one in 2-5 years to see if it's more accessible.

4. Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
This full bodied Cab has a rich, plump nose of cassis, leather, cinnamon, and violets. With a beautiful, velvety mouthfeel, it offers flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa, and black licorice. Dark, rich, and big, with medium-grained tannins providing plenty of "grip." Nice.

5. Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.99/bottle)
Stag's Leap reds often hint of the Old World, with subtle earthy notes not common in the rest of the valley. The Silverado Cab was the one in tonight's lineup that came closest to fitting this mold, with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoke. On the palate it is full bodied and ripe, with flavors of sweet berries, peppery spice, and a little bit of tobacco. The big fruit and assertive tannins should harmonize in 5-7 years. I can't wait.

6. Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five 2004 ($75.99/bottle)
Clearly the star in this lineup, the Shafer is a beautiful, full bodied wine. The nose shows cassis, black earth, and violets, while the dark, rich, chocolatey palate is buttressed by firm but fine tannins. The finish is wonderfully dark and bitter. As I tasted this wine, I wanted an equally rich prime rib to go with it.

7. Stag's Leap Winery Petit Syrah 2005 ($38.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, jammy nose with notes of smoke, menthol, and caramel. Very full bodied, this wine is big, tannic, and rich, with flavors of dark fruits and smoke and a big, licoricey finish. A real eye-opener. What to pair it with? Grilled steak, grilled steak, grilled steak. Or maybe grilled steak.

Tasting Notes (July 17): Spanish Wines Are Good

More and more, I'm convinced that Spain is the way to go for value wines. Whether $10, $20, $30 or more, it's a good bet that whatever Spanish wine you're drinking will outperform its price point. That's not to say that Spain isn't also turning out mediocre and poor wines. Every wine-producing region in the world turns out lackluster wines. But Spain consistently produces some amazing surprises. Just look at Vina Alarba, Las Rocas, and Altos de Luzon, all of which provide exceptional quality at a very affordable price, and--in the slightly more expensive range--Bodega Numanthia, whose "Termes" can be a revelation at less than $40.

Not only that, but Spain also has the added distinction of producing, with equal aplomb, both "Old World" and "New World" styles of wines, where "Old World" denotes wines of finesse and subtlety, often with elegant but not overpowering fruit and distinctly earthy notes, and "New World" denotes more thick, juicy, fruit-forward wines with real oomph. (Think about the difference between a sauce based on a flavorful broth versus a sauce based on a heavily-reduced stock, and you'll have something of an idea: both are extremely satisfying, but they have very different textures and viscosities.)

So, if you're looking for a good value and are tired of the same old Aussie fruit bombs (Milton Park--I'm looking at you), you could do a lot worse than to take a vinous trip to Spain.

Now, the notes:

1. Adegas Morgadio Albarino 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This lightly creamy white has a nose of apples and what I can only describe as chicken searing in olive oil. Medium-bodied, it boasts flavors of apple, bitter herbs, and a crescendo of white pepper from the back end to the finish. Try pairing this pleasant wine with light, flaky fish or scallops.

2. Vinicola del Prioriat "Onix" 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
This wine is always hailed as a "best value," and when I tried it a year ago, I didn't see what the fuss was about. Now, with another year of bottle age, its firm tannins have softened a bit and the flavors have begun to blossom. Both the nose and the palate show rich, meaty blackberry, vanilla, and mineral notes. Full-bodied and smooth, though it could still use another year or two to fully come into its own.

3. Can Blau 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
A great value, this medium-full-bodied red has a rich nose of plums, violets, and baking spices. Dark, earthy flavors of spices, wet leaves, and smoked bologna are buoyed by vibrant acidity. Try this one with cured sausage.

4. San Vicente Rioja 2001 ($39.99/bottle)
This tempranillo-based wine has a fantastic, super-earthy nose of worn leather, wet soil, and graphite. Sweetly ripe, with a smooth, medium body and flavors of double-shot mocha, black cherry, and graphite. Still-gripping tannins and sprightly acidity will allow this wine to age gracefully for 3-5 or more years. Think beef stew with lots of mushrooms for a food pairing.

5. Mas Doix Salanques 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is sharp and tarry, with additional wildflower and raspberry cola notes. Lively acidity and cola notes on the palate put one in mind of Pinot Noir, but then a torrent of meaty and tarry flavors whisk you quickly back to Priorat.

6. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
This smooth, rich, medium-full-bodied garnacha (grenache) has a nose of crushed black and blue berries, vanilla, clove, and cinnamon and flavors of blueberry, vanilla, spice, and pepper notes. Reminds me of a slightly lighter-bodied Aussie Shiraz.

7. Lese Eres Vinyes Velles Priorat 2001 ($64.99/bottle)
The nose on this red offers bold wild berry, meat, and violet notes. On the palate it is brambly and spicy, with dark, tarry notes and black cherry and cranberry fruit. Finishes fresh and tart. Would be ideal for bolognese or other red meat sauce dishes.

Tasting Notes (July 10): Call Me Wopner

This theme-based tasting was called "Stimmel's Court," and, res ipsa loquitur, the wines speak for themselves:

1. "The Consultant" Chardonnay 2005 (California; <$20, I think)
Perhaps enrolled in the vitis protection program, this medium-bodied Chardonnay does not show up on the tasting sheet and seems intentionally secretive of its origins. (Even a Google search only turns up the name of the Chardonnay and an "importer"--of this California wine, no less--called Billington Wines.) What I do know is that it has aromas and flavors of apples, butter, smoke, and minerals, with a streak of bitter anise running through the finish. Not bad at all.

2. Shinas Estate "The Innocent" Viognier 2007 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
If you're not used to drinking Viognier, you might call this wine "stinky." I prefer to call it aromatic, with notes of cantaloupe, peaches, and musk on the nose. Medium-full-bodied, this oh-so-lightly sweet white shines with flavors of sweet peach and pear and a white pepper-laced finish. Lively acidity keeps the wine seeming fresh despite its viscosity. Really nice.

3. Shinas Estate "The Guilty" Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
Another nice wine from Shinas, this is pretty textbook Aussie Shiraz, with blueberry, pepper, spice, and tar aromas and flavors. The only departure is a hint of bramble as well, giving it a slightly wild, adventurous edge.

4. Shinas Estate "The Verdict" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
This full-bodied red has a lovely nose of black currants, earth, violets, and just a tiny hint of barnyard. On the palate, sweetly ripe black currant starts the show, only to give way to a disappointing greenish/woody note. After a couple sips, however, this off green wood taste morphed into a more pleasant hoisin-like quality (for me, anyway; who knows what it may do for you). An interesting wine, though the other Shinas Estate offerings in this lineup outshine it by a considerable margin.

5. Orin Swift "The Prisoner" 2005 (California/Napa Valley; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend is a perennial favorite at Stimmel's tastings, and with good reason. A tantalizing nose of blackberry, black plum, bramble, and pepper gives way to a gripping, full-bodied palate, offering flavors of sweet blackberry liquer, peppery spice, mocha, and red and black licorice. "The Prisoner" is big and rich but exquisitely balanced. I love this wine.

6. Ahnfeldt "Quid Pro Quo" Blend 2003 (California/Napa Valley; $69.99/bottle)
This full-bodied, Merlot-based, Bordeaux-style blend has a nice nose of plums, flowers, earth, and leathery spice. On the palate, it shows very nice flavors of black currant, spice, licorice, and a hint of mushroom-y earth. Gripping but fine tannins and good fruit mean this wine will age gracefully for at least another five years.

7. Chateau Les Justices Sauternes 2003 (France; $52.99/bottle)
This may not be the steel trap of a Sauternes that the 2001 Chateau D'Yquem is, but it has its charms nonetheless. Aromas and flavors of pineapple, lemon curd, and smoky jasmine vibrate on a taught string of acidity, with an intriguing menthol note emerging on the long finish.

Tasting Notes (July 3): Franc the Tanc

In the movie Old School, Frank "The Tank" Ricard is in the inner sanctum of cool, being one of the three people responsible for founding the fraternity of misfits whose antics drive the film's plot (and most of the gags). Nevertheless, Frank--who's lots of fun but lacks solidity of character (to say the least; that's like saying NW Ohio lacks mountains)--continually takes a back seat to the other two members of the inner sanctum: the staid, reliable Mitch and the boldly charismatic entrepreneur Beanie. But, by the end of the movie, Frank has been given a few chances to shine on his own. Sure, he may not always come through, shooting himself in the neck with a tranquilizer gun or setting himself on fire while dressed in a cougar suit. But every once in a while, he rises to the occasion, stunning critics with a heartfelt rhythmic ballet routine or mystically channeling his inner wonk to school James Carville in the finer points of U.S. biotech policy.

So it is with Cabernet Franc. Like Frank, Franc is also in an inner sanctum, being one of the three indispensable red grapes of Bordeaux. (We'll leave number four, Petit Verdot, for another post.) And, like Frank, Franc always takes a back seat to its two friends, the staid, reliable Merlot and the boldly charismatic Cabernet Sauvignon. After all, when's the last time you had a glass of Cab Franc (other than this tasting)? Compare that to the last Cab Sauv or Merlot you've had, and you'll likely get the point. And there's no doubt that Cab Franc, on its own, sometimes lacks solidity of character, perhaps showing flashes--or should I say streaks--of brilliance but not able to sustain a full, developed flavor arc, which is what makes it such a good blending wine. (That may also be what makes the grape insecure and prone to saying things like, "Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low"). But every once in awhile, it truly sings on its own, with supple fruit, deep, seductive earth and leather notes, and an intriguing floral quality that places it among the most irresistable wines you're likely to come across. And when that happens, there's only one term to describe drinking such a wine. Yep, you guessed it: old school.

Unfortunately, my notes got lost in a frenzy of mid-summer housecleaning. But I can tell you that, despite the fact that the big, rich, Cab Sauv-like Reverie was the clear crowd favorite (not to mention a big winner for Robert Parker), Daniele and I both were quite taken by the Steltzner Cab Franc. Subtle, with notes of leather and tobacco, it combines the best of old world flavors and aromas with new-world (but not overdone) ripeness. If you're feeling like dropping $30-40 on an elegant, sensuous bottle of wine, try the Steltzner Cab Franc. Or, if you want to spend just a bit more (if memory serves) on a ripe, rich, velvety wine, go with the crowd and try the Reverie. Either way, you'll come out a winner. (Specific vintage information is available on the tasting sheet; or just ask Sara if you see her.)

Tasting Notes (June 19): I'm No Miles

It's the most famous line about wine in recent film history, and maybe in all of film history:

"If anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am not drinking any f---ing Merlot!"

The film, of course, is Sideways, and with these words Miles--the self-loathing writer, Pinot Noir lover, and arbiter of taste for would-be wine snobs across the nation--sounded the death-knell of the Merlot glut of the 90's and issued in the era of Pinot envy. (Though, truth be told, Merlot sales actually went up after the film's release, at least according to the woman in the tasting room at Beaulieu Vineyards.) Nowadays, one can hardly go to a party or a tasting without someone proclaiming, "I'm not a big fan of Cabernet. I like Pinots." True, maybe some of them came by their opinions honestly. But I hear that same sentiment uttered often enough to make me think there are lots of wine drinkers out there who just do what the latest screenwriter or best-selling author tells them to do.

So why should we care? Normally, I wouldn't, but the law of supply and demand says that the more people who want to drink Pinot Noir, the more money wineries, distributors, and merchants can charge for it. That's why you can hardly find a decent--not great, mind you, but decent--bottle of the stuff for under $20. Fortunately for me, and Pinot Noir notwithstanding, I happen to like Cabernet Sauvignon (bane of party goers everywhere, it would seem). I also like Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Carmenere, and Pinotage, to name a few of my favorite reds. In fact, the one thing I do come close to wine snobbery about has nothing to do with the price of the bottle, the prestige of the winery, or even the quality of the wine (the evaluation of which is very subjective). Instead, I'm snobbish in my conviction that, if you want to call yourself a wine lover, you should at least try to appreciate a range of colors, bodies, styles, and flavors. Besides, when you don't have a mint to spend on wine, broad-ranging taste is an assett.

Still, I do like a good Pinot. I have to admit, though, that what I consider to be a "good Pinot" doesn't mesh perfectly with popular or critical tastes. I prefer the softer, rounder, more full-bodied style (the Sanford below is a good example) to the more elegant, crisp-almost-to-the-point-of-effervescence style (the Beaux Freres below isn't this way in the extreme, but it does flirt with it). Don't get me wrong--a good Pinot Noir has to have a good backbone of acidity, and the best ones will be infused with seductive, earthy notes. It's just that the austere snap that makes Pinot so exciting for many wine lovers can, for me, be taken too far.

In sum, I will gladly drink "f---ing Merlot," along with all the other varietals I mention above (not to mention the gamut of white wines, all of which can be delicious). And, of course, that includes Pinot Noir. To come at wine from any other direction is, to my mind, to come at it sideways.

Now, the notes:

1. Leroy Bourgone 1999 ($44.99/bottle)
This basic Burgundy has a nice, balanced nose of baked plums, dried leaves, damp earth, and spice and has a light-medium body on the palate. A very earthy core is infused with black cherry, licorice, and spice notes, with fine tannins and a long, peppery finish.

2. Sanford Santa Rita Hills Sanford & Benedict Vineyard 2002 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose is ripe, rich, and plummy, with some woody and sweet tar notes. Medium bodied, with a smooth, silky mouthfeel, this Pinot boasts flavors of dark plum and berry, toast, and new leather, all strung on a taught but not overwhelming rope of acidity. The long finish is pure black tea. Spectator gave this one 87; I'd bump it up 5 points. Excellent.

3. Taz Fiddlestix Vineyard 2005 ($36.99/bottle)
This silky, medium bodied Pinot offers aromas of cherry and raspberry cola and a lightly floral perfumed note. Snappy acidity gives lift to flavors of cola, tea, and smoke. The finish is dark and herbal. Nice.

4. Etude Pinot Noir 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
The nose is pure Old World, dominated by wild mushrooms, minerality, and barnyard notes. Medium bodied, with black cherry and plum fruit, mountains of black soil, and cigarette tobacco on the palate. This is a beautifully sensuous, seductive wine.

5. Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post Highlighner 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Smooth and medium bodied with sprightly acidity, this Pinot offers aromas of straight cola, peppery spice, and flowers, and flavors of sweet dark berries, tar, cola, and a hint of earth. This is a nice, solid wine.

6. Beaux Freres Ribbon Ridge Vineyard 2006 ($79.99/bottle)
Black cherry, toasted wood, and rich perfumed spice aromas give way to a medium bodied palate. Flavors of sweet cherry, red and black licorice, and spice seem to jump around on your tongue, so kinetic is the acidity. As my introductory comments imply, this is not my ideal style of Pinot. But becuase it has some richness for balance, it is a very good example of that style. If you like your Pinots lively, you will love this one.

Tasting Notes (June 12): La Dolce (e Amaro) Vita

"and so she seems a wondrous thing sent down from heaven to earth"

The great Florentine poet Dante Alighieri wrote these words in the 1300's, and they would seem to be a simple celebration of the divinely beautiful woman who is the subject of the poem. But a closer look reveals a separation, a distance, between the speaker and this ideal woman: by virtue of her divinity, she can never be his. He knows this, of course, but, like many poets of the time, Dante (or, more accurately, his narrative voice) delights in the paradoxically painful pleasure that worshipping her from afar offers. Indeed, it is to Dante, Petrarch, and other inheritors of the Troubadour tradition that we owe the greatest debt for the prevalence of this concept in our own cultural traditions and forms, from Juliet's "parting is such sweet sorrow" to John Cougar Mellencamp's "hurt so good." (Yes, I just implicitly compared JCM to Shakespeare, but I'm on a roll, so I'm going with it.)

So powerful is this idea, in fact, that it's no stretch at all to transfer it from the sight of a beautiful person to the taste of a stunning wine. Great wines, like all great experiences in life, never satisfy completely. It's easy, that is, to toss back a glass or two (or three) of a juicy, inexpensive Shiraz with an equally juicy burger and settle into an evening of fine contentment. But not so with your more stratospheric wines. Maybe they tease one into regret, into thinking that in another year or two they would have offered even more. Maybe their complexity overwhelms the senses, so that the part of you that wants to put the experience into words can never quite catch up with the torrent of flavors and textures rushing over your palate. Or, maybe, they are so hauntingly delicious that as soon as you finish the bottle you begin dreaming about the next one. Whatever the reason, it is this play between pleasure and desire, between satiety and appetite, that makes wine "a wondrous thing sent down from heaven to earth." And, like Italian poets, Italian wines compel us to celebrate this paradox of the human condition: the things we desire the most are the things we can never fully have.

Now, the notes:

1. Gaja Rossj-Bass Chardonnay 2006 ($48.99/bottle)
As utterly beautiful as a couple of the reds in this lineup were, it was this chardonnay that I found myself thinking about in the week following the tasting. Medium-bodied and exquisitely balanced between crispness and richness, this wine offers aromas and flavors of citrus, melon, and gunflint-like minerality, with even a faint nuttiness emerging on the back end. The long finish is deliciously stony. Outstanding.

2. Petra Ebo Val di Cornia 2003 ($19.99/bottle)
This red from the coast of Tuscany has a beautiful nose of black cherry, leather, clove, and dried leaves and flavors of sweet blackberry liqueur, sour cherry, tobacco, and black licorice. Medium-full bodied, with fine, drying tannins on the long, anise-laden finish. Very nice, and a great value at <$20. Drink now through 2013.

3. Monsanto Chianti Riserva 2003 ($24.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied red offers aromas of plum, leather, oak, and spice, and flavors of tart but ripe cherry, plum, leather, and earth. It ends with a long, dark finish. Nice acidity for pairing with a wide variety of foods, from pasta with red sauce to grilled rib eye.

4. Capezzana Ghiaie Della Furba 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
This red has a wonderful nose of grilled plums, tree bark, and sweet woodland flowers. Big, bold flavors of ripe berries, lots of leather, and dusty pepper lead into a long, pancetta-laced finish. Every wine in this lineup has been very nice, and this one is no exception.

5. Ceretto Barolo Prapo 2001 ($87.99/bottle)
In this full-bodied red from the Piedmont, the nose of mixed berries, dark brown sugar, and road tar is buoyed by a bright floral note. On the palate it is both massive and luxuriously silky, with flavors of blackberry, red currant, toasty oak, leather, and spice. Big and tannic--think meat roasted on a spit for an ideal food pairing--this is the liger of wines: a cross flavor-wise between the lion of Chianti and the tiger of Bordeaux, it is bigger and more powerful than both. Outstanding.

6. Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001 ($99.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is subtle and caramelly, with a distinct animal/barnyard character and a hint of charred wood. The palate offers enticing flavors of ripe black fruits, sweet spiced orange, tobacco, and a hint of dark chocolate. The long finish is dark, bitter, and very sensuous. Very smooth, and very tannic, this wine is drinking well now but needs several years to fully come into its own.

Tasting Notes (May 29): Armageddon Reds

I kept waiting for the bad news. Stimmel’s was moving to Findlay. Wine was being outlawed in Ohio. The Rapture had begun. (For some that last one would no doubt be good news; for me, it would be very, very bad.) Why else would I be drinking my first Chateau Haut-Brion and my first Opus One—two of the most sought after cabernet-based wines in the world—on the same night, not to mention a 1988 Sauternes, one of the best Shirazes in the world, and the very highly regarded Toro wine Numanthia? It couldn’t simply be that I’m one lucky sunnovab—er, guy.

But nothing happened. I drank the wines. I watched a ballgame. I went to bed, got up, had my day. And now I’m sitting here at midnight writing this post (and finishing it the next evening, still untouched by the fates). Happily and not a little bit surprisingly, life went, and goes, on.

Not unchanged, though. You can’t experience a tasting like this one and be the same after it. And, contrary to what you might think, not all of the changes one experiences after tasting some of the world’s best wines in one sitting are positive—at least, not the ones I experienced. Specifically, I have a nagging sense that, even though the Earth didn’t open up and swallow me or (I suspect) any of the other tasters whole Thursday night, I, a lowly assistant professor of English, have some karmic comeuppance in store for daring to find fault—any fault—in this by-all-accounts-stellar lineup. I just can’t help it, though. A 2000 Opus One is going to sing like a chorus of angels when up against your run-of-the-mill Cali cab. But after a 1991 Ridge Monte Bello, it’s going to seem a little lean. It’s just the nature of things.

So despite—or, better yet, because of—my hubris at even thinking about passing judgment on some of the world’s finest wines, I throw myself on the mercy of the universe. After all, if there are more things in Heaven and Earth than are dreamt of in my philosophy, maybe one of them can help me out here, because I’m clearly in over my head.

Now, the notes:

Chateau Haut-Brion 2004 (France; $269.99/bottle)
Still extremely young, this first-growth Bordeaux is dark red in color, with a nose of rich, ripe currant, earth, worn leather, and wet stone. Even though the wine is very tight and the tannins are young, the perfect, silky texture still manages to shine through with ease. Big flavors of black plum and leather should soften and become more nuanced over the next 5 – 20 years.

Ridge Monte Bello 1991 (California; $199.99/bottle)
The 1992 Monte Bello is in my top two or three wines ever, and this one—one year older—is easily in my top fifteen. Brick red with little to no brown showing on the edge, it has a rich nose of dark berries, chocolate, smoky spice, and pencil lead. The mouthfeel on this full-bodied Bordeaux-style blend is pure satin, with very fine tannins and a luxurious, long finish. On the palate, an enticing smoky note infuses flavors of blackberry, peppery spice, and a hint of dill.

Opus One 2000 (California; $151.99/bottle)
Brick red with browning edges and a prominent pencil shaving note on the nose, this perennial Napa Valley star is showing more age than you might expect for only being eight years old. It is medium-full bodied with bright acidity and flavors of black currant, plum, pencil shavings, and a hint of pepper. The long finish is graphite-filled. Very good, but not the powerhouse I expected.

Kosta Brown Russian River Pinot Noir 2006 (California; $69.99/bottle)
While pinot noirs have so far been easy for me to pick out in Stimmels’ blind tastings, I find them very difficult to describe in tasting notes. Because I drink far more full-bodied reds like cabernet and shiraz than I do lighter-bodied pinots, my descriptive vocabulary for those wines is correspondingly more developed. Anyway, long disclaimer short: while I wait until after I take my notes to read the “official” notes on the tasting card, I find myself wanting to just substitute them for mine, since, when I read them, I thought, “Yes, that’s exactly right.” Still, here are mine, for what they’re worth: on the full side of medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of bright cherry, forest floor, earth, and violets, with something also vaguely coffee/toffee-like.

Numanthia 2005 (Spain; 69.99/bottle)
This red from the Toro region in Spain has an interesting nose, showing black plum, chocolate, vanilla, and a ghost of something reminiscent of farmer’s cheese. (It’s the cheese part that makes the nose so interesting; I’d call it an off note if it weren’t so faint and if it showed up on the palate, which it doesn’t). It has a rich but elegant palate of blackberry, chocolate, pine, and mint, with a flannel-like mouthfeel and bold but fine tannins. The finish is mint and licorice-laced. Very nice, but needs 3-5 years minimum in the bottle before it will really show what it’s made of.

D’Arenberg The Dead Arm 2004 (Australia; $79.99/bottle)
Deep opaque purple, this Aussie Shiraz has shows blueberry, black olive, pepper, and menthol on the nose. The superripe, full-bodied palate is spicy and rich, with a riot of dark berry fruit and lots of spicy pepper. The finish is very long and reminiscent of dried scrub and black olives (not unlike what the French call “garrigue”).

Chateau Rieussec 1988 (France; $129.99/bottle)
This very distinctive, personality-laden dessert wine from Sauternes has a deep, golden yellow color suggestive of nearly two decades of bottle age. The nose reveals honey, crème brulèe, smoke, and baked pineapples, while the flavors suggest sweet honeysuckle, canned pear juice, amaretto, and a light hint of smoke. The very long finish is surprisingly spicy and cigar-like. Good acid to keep things in balance.

Tasting Notes (May 8): I'm going to Napa!

I have two sets of notes still on the line from past tastings, but since I'll be leaving for Napa Valley in two days (woohoo!), I thought I'd go ahead and post the notes from the most recent Thursday tasting, California Cabs. Besides, I've been doing some reflecting on these posts, and it occurs to me that if I were coming to Stimmels' blog to read somebody else's tasting notes, I'd get a lot more enjoyment out of it if I were reading notes from a tasting still fresh in my mind. So, here are the freshest notes I have, and the ones I'm totally jazzed about, because--did I mention?--I'm going to Napa in two days. I don't know what my internet access situation will be there, but if it's reasonable, I'll throw up a quick post or two (maybe with pictures) from the road. "Stimmel's on Location," here I come!

Now, the notes. All wines except the Pilliteri Ice Wine are from California; more specific American Viticultural Areas are listed when applicable:

1. Cartlidge and Browne 2006 (California; $12.99/bottle)
California cabs as a group aren't making anybody's list for "best values:" they're good, and their prices usually show it. That's what makes this wine so nice. There may be better $12.99 bottles in the store (especially from South America, Spain, Australia, or even South Africa), but as a Cali Cab, this one is quite a value, delivering solid quality for not much money. It is medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, cedar, and violets. (This is an especially good value when you consider that as I write this I'm drinking a $15.99 bottle of Michael Pozznan Annabella Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and it's not as good as the C&B.)

2. Joseph Phelps Napa 2003 (Napa; $49.99/bottle)
2003 was a tough year for Napa, and while this is definitely not a bad wine, and is even by some measures a good one, you get a sense that the folks at Phelps had to do a lot of manipulating during the winemaking process to get the wine up to expectations. Vanilla stands out on both the nose and the full-bodied palate, slightly cloaking what are otherwise very nice ripe currant, earth, and spice notes. One wonders whether a bit of extra oak wasn't necessary to make up for an otherwise lean vintage.

3. Regusci Stags Leap 2005 (Stag's Leap/Napa; $54.99/bottle)
This wine was a pleasant surprise. Not that I wasn't expecting it to be good; I was--very good. But the prominent graphite notes and even a touch of barnyard to go with the more conventional blackberry, spice, and toasty oak gave it an unexpected old world quality (it reminds me of a cab-based Tuscan). Good acidity and solid but fine tannic structure, with some additional tar notes emerging on the finish. Very nice.

4. Parallel Napa 2005 (Napa; $59.99/bottle)
The nose on this full-bodied red offers dark berries, black currant, toasty oak, and aromatic wildflowers--very sensual. Beautifully smooth on the palate, with rich tannins and flavors of currant, cherry, spice, and toasty oak. Great now; I'd love to come back in 5 or even 10 years and try it again. (I don't understand why Spectator gave it 85; I'd go a full 5-7 points higher.)

5. Caymus Napa 2005 (Napa; $75.99/bottle)
The Caymus has a nice nose of purple and dark fruits, spice, and lots of appealing damp earth. The palate is full-bodied, with a very smooth, almost lanolin mouthfeel. This cab is big, tannic, and young, but even now the flavors of black plum, black currant, black earth, and spicy tar show nicely. I sense even more trhing to come through; needs 3-5 years minimum and will be good for another 10+ years.

6. D.R. Stephens Napa Moose Valley Vineyard 2003 (Napa; $99.99/bottle)
The nose is complex but balanced, with classic cab notes of currant, earth, oak, and spice. The palate shows sweet ripe currant and dark berries, earth, and spice, with a hint of black licorice and a long, earthy finish. Full-bodied, with a smooth, satiny mouthfeel and firm but integrated tannins, this wine is still young at 5 years old. Really good, but needs another 5-10 years to be fully expressive.

7. Pilliteri Icewine Riesling 2004 (Ontario, CA; $28.99/187 ml bottle)
Sweet and lush, with aromas and flavors of canned peach and honeysuckle. Pretty good acidity, though the sweetness definitely still comes through. This is a tasty dessert wine, but at this price I'd go with a Tokaji or Sauternes--Stimmel's has great examples of both at comparable or even better prices per mililiter.

Tasting Notes (April 17): Long Overdue Zinfandel Post

Hi folks. Lance here. No, I'm not dead. I'm not even sleepy. In fact, despite an emergency house-painting project I must attend to, I find myself invigorated by the end of the academic year--that time when tenure-track (but untenured) professors with 2 year-old kids go from being so swamped with work that they long for the sweet release of death to being merely very, very busy. To paraphrase the showtune, "Summertime, and the livin's easy at least tolerable . . ."

As a result of my recent ascent to the ranks of the minimally human, I find myself able to begin catching up on three tastings' worth of notes that have been lying dormant in my bookbag or on my desk for as many weeks. (Of course, ditz that I am, I accidentally left my bookbag at home, so today's effort will include the Zinfandel notes only.) Thanks to Bill for not complaining about their tardiness.

Now, the notes. All wines are from California; names inside parentheses indicate American Viticultural Areas (AVA's) within California:

1. Peltier Station 2006 (Lodi; $17.99/bottle)
Bill and Sara tend to start tastings with the more modestly priced wines, which is why most of the time when I'm ooh-ing and ahh-ing about a wine on this blog, it's a ways down on the list. But this rich, full-bodied zin had me paying attention right away, with hints of clove and orange peel on the nose and big, jammy raspberry preserves and toasty spice on the palate. The finish is surprisingly long for a <$20 bottle. Very tasty, and an excellent value.

2. Seghesio 2005 (Sonoma; $21.99/bottle)
This very rich, very full-bodied zin offers wild berry, vanilla, and toast notes on the nose and tastes like a big bowl of smashed ripe blueberries with bourbon-laced whipped cream. A sinful pleasure, to be sure.

3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (Sonoma; $21.99/bottle)
The Sophisticate lives up to its name, with a dark but subtle olive note on the palate in addition to the big brambly fruit. The smooth, silky mouthfeel reveals a balance and refinement that you just don't find in most zinfandels. And the peppery finish hangs around for a good 45 seconds or more. One of my favorite zins.

4. Turley "The Juvenile" 2003 (Multi-Vineyard; $29.99/bottle)
Maybe I had olives on my mind after the Four Vines, but the Turley's nose also has a faint black olive note to go with the plum and caramel aromas. The palate is thick and very rich, with ripe berry fruit and--again--a slight briny/olive quality to add interest and differentiate this wine from your run-of-the-mill zin.

5. Orin Swift "The Prisoner" 2005 (Napa; $36.99/bottle)
This wine has a complex nose of mixed berry jam layered with spicy, herbal, and red licorice notes. The full-bodied palate reveals yet another big-but-refined-for-a-zin combination of dark fruit, lots of piquant spice, and licorice flavors. The long finish just keeps the licorice coming. Very nice, indeed.

6. Ravenswood Old Hill 2004 (Sonoma; $51.99/bottle)
This one was more tannic than I expected, though I welcomed the balance the tannins offered to the jammy ripeness of the fruit. It was also distinctly herbal on the palate, while still managing to be expressive of the jammy, wild, spicy fruit that is zinfandel's hallmark. Of all the wines in this lineup, the Ravenswood seems tailor made for food--especially a juicy grilled steak.

Sixtel Sightings

What is a "sixtel"? Well, it's a nickname for 1/6 barrel kegs of beer, and they happen to be one of the best kept secrets around. Here in Ohio, state law allows beer retailers to sell up to 1/6 barrel sizes of kegs directly to customers; anything larger must be purchased directly from the distributor. A sixtel will yield around 50-55 pints of beer, and they typically range in cost from as low as $50 up to $100 or so, although most are in the $50 - $70 range, with a $10 refundable deposit fee. That's a great value for fresh craft beer (just over a buck a pint)! Several top beer producers offer sixtels, such as Great Lakes, Goose Island, Sam Adams, Dogfish Head and others.

We're definitley heading into sixtel season, with graduation parties, weddings, reunions, picnics and the like all populating our calendars. Here at Stimmel's Market, we'll get any sixtel available in the state; just ask Sara or myself for a list. Try one soon, and you'll be the hero of the party!

Special Report: Unknown Red From Languedoc Takes Bordeaux Group Behind The Woodshed.

So, the first '05 reds from Bordeaux arrived today, albeit in limited quantities (the big order is supposed to come in June). We received some of the following:

Chateau Belgrave (classified 5th growth, 91 points Wine Spectator, $49.99)
Chateau La Garde (89 points Wine Spectator, $34.99)
Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande (87 points Wine Spectator, $24.99)
Chateay Pey La Tour (89 points Wine Spectator, $19.99)

All things considered, these are some good values (especially the Pey La Tour) for 2005, but they were all upstaged by an over-achiever from the Languedoc region that we also received today. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre, the 2005 Chateau de Serame is a full-bodied, rich, spicy delight that is an outstanding value (90 points Wine Spectator, $18.99). Pick up any of these wines soon, as I don't expect them to be on the shelves for long.

Cheers!

These Prices Are INSANE!

Growing up in Connecticut, there was a commercial for an appliance/electronics store in NYC that aired week after week for years; named Crazy Eddie's, the (in)famous tag line at the end of each spot was "At Crazy Eddie's, his prices are INSANE!". The guy in the commercial had veins popping out of his neck and his fists were pumped as he screamed that famous phrase, something that regrettably stuck with me throughout my childhood.

Well, today I thought of that spot again as I perused the full price list of our 2005 Bordeaux pre-sell for the first time. I had heard for months that the prices were going to be unprecedented, and it turns out they certainly are. 1st growths at $1,200 per bottle. 2nd growths around $400 - $600, and so on. Most, if not all, classified bottles are going to retail at two to three times what the 2004's did, and while the ratings are universally high (check James Suckling's glowing reviews at Wine Spectator), it's hard to justify paying those kinds of prices. Laying down a grand for a bottle of fermented grape juice isn't just insane, it's downright obscene.

So, Sara and I have targeted a number of wines that have received great scores, but are south of the $200 price point. In fact, we have a few coming that are around the $100 mark and are 95+ rated wines, a good value all things considered. The classified '05 order should hit the market sometime in June, and we'll post a list of exactly what we receive at that time. Until then, we have started to receive a handful of inexpensive, unclassified 2005 wines from Bordeaux, one of which (2005 Chateau La Rame, 85 points from Wine Spectator) retails for $15. That, fellow wine lovers, is definitely NOT insane.

Revolver

Around this time last year, I heard of a restaurant in Findlay that had opened and was receiving terrific reviews - not just local praise mind you, but ringing endorsements from national publications such as Bon Appetit (or was it Food&Wine, I can't recall...) and The Wall Street Journal. Now, I don't pretend to be a restaurant critic, nor am I qualified to be one, but let's say my culinary experiences in Findlay over the years have been generally sub-par. Diamond River was a favorite for Beth and myself (before it closed and re-opened as one of the worst barbecue joints in the Northern Hemisphere), and I've had some nice meals at Japan West, but otherwise the food scene is rather spartan. As a matter of fact, a couple of my worst meals anywhere in the U.S. have been in Flag City, USA; a completely inedible pizza joint, the afore-mentioned barbecue from hell, and the single worst restaurant on earth (named after a Robert Redford train-wreck-of-a-film, and worthy of a whole different post someday).

Well, I'm happy to say after finally getting around to dining at Revolver that it is a rising tide I hope will lift all of the other boats (i.e. restaurants) in Findlay. As a matter of fact, it was one of the best all-around dining experiences I've encountered anywhere. The service was excellent, the food was terrific and creative (Beth and I both played it safe ordering salmon/wild rice with the S'mores dessert), and the wine list, while not necessarily expansive, was eclectic and impressive. We ordered a bottle of L'ecole #41 Semillon, a favorite value white wine for me (from Washington State) that paired up well with the salmon.

Chain restaurants seem to dominate the landscape in Northwest Ohio, so it's both rare and exciting to dine at a locally owned establishment that is populated with talent and creativity. For the last few years, that place, for me, had been Diva in Toledo - an absolutely wonderful eatery that was darn near perfect in my estimation. Sadly, they closed the doors for good last month, leading to a couple of weeks of what I would describe as "Black Swamp Depression". Revolver has now stepped in, and I can comfortably say it's the best restaurant in Northwest Ohio, and I'm already looking forward to my next visit.

Tasting Notes (April 10): Tour de France

I usually try to give my posts their own titles, but this week I couldn't think of anything that better represents my take on this week's wines than the title on the tasting sheet: Tour de France. These bottles come from all over France, with only the Loire valley being represented twice (one red, one white). And, while Bill and Sara could have tossed in a wine from, say, the Languedoc just to spread the wealth a little more, I like the fact that they opted for two wines from the Loire, which gets very short shrift in the American wine market (at least, a certain segment of it). There is, of course, something to be said for tasting several wines from the same region--a model Stimmel's frequently adopts--but every once in a while one just feels like playing the field. When that happens, you want a tasting like this one. C'est bon!

These notes are in the order in which they appear on the tasting sheet, though I tried the reds first.

1. Piper Heidsieck Brut NV (Champagne; $39.99/bottle)
This refreshing brut has a crisp nose of herbs and brioche, and the slight richness of the palate is nicely balanced by a bitter herb note. This bubbly would be great with just about anything deep fried, though I'm thinking oysters would be especially nice.

2. Weinbach Gewürtztraminer Cuvee Theo 2004 (Alsace; $54.99/bottle)
This is a nice, if surprising, Gewürtz. With aromas of sweet peach nectar and a touch of rubber, the nose offers the first hint that this wine is off-dry instead of bone dry, like most Alsatian whites. The lightly sweet palate of peach and apricot followed by spice and petrol is very smooth.

3. Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2002 (Burgundy; $99.99/bottle)
The nose on this light-bodied red offers enticing aromas of black cherry, mineral, and damp earth. The palate is bright and lively, with tangy fruit up front and earthy tannins on the back end. Finish is long and graced by just a touch of white pepper.

4. Olek-Mery Chinon 2004 (Loire; $26.99/bottle)
This was the first Chinon I've tasted. (I said the Loire gets short shrift, didn't I? I wasn't excluding myself from that phenomenon.) It was unlike anything I've tried before, which is exactly what one wants in a new wine experience, though time and more experience will render me better able to assess the quality of the wine. Black fruit, musk, and lots of dust define the nose, while the palate shows licorice, mint, and medicinal herb, finishing with dusty pepper. I don't think I'd just pour a glass to drink by itself, but my instincts say that nothing would go better with pepper steak (or any meat cooked with lots of green peppers).

5. Chateau Giscours 2004 (Bordeaux; $39.99/bottle)
This is trademark Bordeaux on the nose, showing sweet currant, earth, and barnyard. The medium-full-bodied palate covers more ground, offering tart blackberry, black currant, earth, and black licorice notes, with tobacco emerging on the finish. The plush mouthfeel helps to soften the tannins. Good now; will be a lot better in 3-5 years.

6. B. Levet Cote-Rotie 2003 (Rhone; $76.99/bottle)
The nose on this northern Rhone red reveals wild berries and crushed violets set against a superripe black olive note--very sensual. The flavor shows very dark fruits, strong dust, and pepper, with a finish of black olive brine. Full-bodied, with fine tannins.

7. Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux 2005 (Loire; $72.99/bottle)
Though this wine is sweet, the nose doesn't let you know, with a bready, herbal, Champagne-like character. These notes are also present on the palate, though they're laid over a lush bed of sweetness and a light minerality. While the flavors still need time to harmonize, the racy acidity and lush body will allow this Vouvray to stay in the bottle for 10, 20, or more years.

Tasting Notes (March 27): Put Another Shrimp on the Grill de Carbon

I'm back from NOLA and reasonably caught up with work, so it's time to post my notes from the "Spain and Australia" tasting.

Two things make this matchup interesting to me.

First, there's the fact that Spain, perhaps more than any other of the big four (France, Italy, Germany, and Spain), is where you're most likely to find ripe, lush, new-world-style wines alongside more traditional styles. In Rioja, for example, it's generally acknowledged that there are "traditional" and "modern" styles of the tempranillo-based wines produced there (both can be, and often are, delicious). And the wines of Priorat, as a class, are as big and dense as a ripe and well-structured Napa cab. So, from this perspective, the pairing of Spanish and Aussie wines makes perfect sense.

Second, it's hard not to think that Spain has caught up with and perhaps even overtaken Australia as the world's premier producer of great wines at affordable prices (Chile has to be in the running, too, but that's another post). Sure, Australia's got Layer Cake, Boarding Pass, and Milton Park. But Spain has Altos de Luzon, Las Rocas, and Mas Donis. And the way this tasting shakes out, the contest hasn't been settled. Sure, I just about flipped my lid for a couple of the Spanish wines, while I merely really enjoyed the Aussies (though the Mitolo is actually on par with the Spaniards). But a quick scan of the prices explains that difference. Sadly, more research on my part is obviously needed to sort out which country has the better quality-price-ratio wines.

Now, the notes:

1. Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero 2003 (Spain; $38.99/bottle)
The nose on this beautiful red is rich and spicy, with lots of blackberry and black currant and a healthy dose of toasty oak. On the palate it is medium-to-full bodied, with ripe berry, tobacco, earth, and pepper notes. There is plenty of structure to balance the plush fruit, suggesting a potential for 3-5+ additional years in the bottle. Very nice.

2. Les Eres Priorat 2001 (Spain; $64.99/bottle)
This big, tannic, full-bodied red smells like vanilla-spiked plums, dark berries, and damp earth. On the palate, sweet dark berries and vanilla are quickly followed by a blast of fresh cracked black pepper, with spearmint lingering on the finish. Very good now; in 5-7 years it will be a knockout.

3. Torre Muga Rioja 2003 (Spain; $92.99/bottle)
I was already giddy at this point in the tasting, so I just about passed out when I tried this ridiculously good Rioja. It's delicious, yes, but also complex and elegant. The nose of black plums, chocolate, and oak gives way on the palate to rich layers of dark fruit, tobacco, leather, and oak. Ultra-fine tannins are velvety smooth and gripping at the same time. There is still aging potential here (5+ yrs), but why wait?

4. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2006 (Australia; $16.99/bottle)
On this night, this shiraz had an intriguing nose of blackberries, oak, and Worcestershire sauce. What's more, the Worcestershire sauce was present on the thick, full-bodied palate as well, along with ripe black and blue berries and a dash of salt and pepper. You may not find this description appealing, but the flavors actually harmonized quite well. A wine to think about as well as drink, and a good value at <$20. 5. Fetish Playmates 2005 (Australia; $23.99/bottle) This blend smells like R Wines' well-known Boarding Pass Shiraz, with aromas of blackberry, clove, spice, and violets. Rich and juicy on the palate, with big flavors of blueberry jam and peppery spice. Not overly complex, but very tasty.

6. Mitolo G.A.M. 2005 (Australia; $49.99/bottle)
With blackberry, light oak, and a faint hint of green olive on the nose, this red blend is a rare breed: while it is expectedly ripe, rich, and full-bodied, a strong wave of pepper along with a backbone of lightly drying tannins serve as counterpoints to the lush fruit, resulting in a more elegant (and seemingly lighter) wine than most mid-range Aussie reds. A real winner.

7. Tokaj Kereskedohaz Tokaji Aszu Eszencia
Because, as odd-wine out, this Hungarian dessert wine wasn't listed on the official Stimmel's tasting sheet, I don't have the date or price for it, but I'm pretty sure I have the winery and the wine right. There was some confusion about whether this was an Eszencia or an Aszu-Eszencia, since the bottle uses both terms. But, given the wine's alcohol content (at or above 10%, if memory serves), I have to think it's regular 5 or 6 puttonyos Tokaji with the rare nectar Eszencia added, rather than the pure nectar itself, which has so much sugar that it often doesn't get above 5% alcohol. It's got a nose of golden raisins and honey, with mesmerizing flavors of date, fig, honey, and a little bit of smoke. Nice acidity works hard to balance the sweetness and does a pretty good job of it. The finish is pure wild, raw honey, though after a couple of minutes it takes on a tobacco-like quality. I love tokajis, and I love this tokaji.

R.I.P.

I headed up north with some friends back in February to the 3rd annual Michigan Brewers Guild Winter Beer Festival. After attending the first two fests in grossly undersized venues in beautiful downtown Lansing, this year's event was held inside a minor league baseball park in Grand Rapids (a smart move), and while still a tad too crowded, a great time was had by all. The Michigan Brewers Guild (a large group of commercial brewers, home brewers and beer enthusiasts) also holds a terrific summer festival every July in Ypsilanti, and most of the breweries throughout the Wolverine State attend - roughly 30-35 breweries are pouring their brews at each festival, so it's a great way to sample some of the best beer in the region, if not the country. I have been to 8 summer fests in Ypsilanti in a row (I'm beginning to lose track as I get older...), and I started fondly thinking about some of the breweries that have gone extinct for whatever reason.

So I found myself yesterday up in Ann Arbor with my kids looking for a place to eat, and as I drove by the "Kerrytown Shops" I was reminded of one of the very first "microbreweries" that I visited (back in '96 or '97) called Brewbaker's, located in the basement of the mini-mall. Brewbaker's was exactly what the name implies: part artisan bakery, part microbrewery, and I remember taking home a six-pack of their German Helles Lager and a loaf of bread, both which were delicious. Many more trips followed, until they unexpectedly (to me) closed the doors a year or two later.

Now, despite some of the Michigan breweries that are dearly departed, the craft beer scene up north is very healthy, unlike here in Ohio, where it seems to be struggling a bit. That wasn't always the case though, and just like my discovery of Brewbaker's some 11 years ago, I was also introduced to dozens of great breweries in the Buckeye State around the same time. I'd say sometime around 1998 - 1999, Ohio boasted a craft beer scene every bit as strong as Michigan, but by 2002 or so, it had all but collapsed. For what it's worth, and in no particular order, here is a roll call of what I remember to be some of the good to great Ohio microbreweries/brewpubs that are gone, but not forgotten:

Frontwaters (Marblehead) - Also one of the first breweries that I visited back in the day, Beth and I always stopped in here whenever we were near the lake. Great atmosphere, good beer, and good food (although a tad overpriced). They distributed their beer for a while, all in 22 oz. bottles I think, and I remember a "Gale Force" or "Gale Warning" beer that was especially tasty.

Maumee Bay (Toledo) - Still technically making beer I suppose, but the actual restaurant has closed down. Circa 1998, this place was one of my favorites anywhere - they had outstanding beer, like an award-winning Hefeweizen and the delicious Winter ale, Blitzen. The food and atmosphere were top-notch (a beer cheese soup used to be outta sight), and they even bottled many of their beers under the "Major Oliver" label. Bit by bit, everything started to change for the worse (the food was practically inedible, and the beer is a shadow of what it was) and it's been dying a slow death for the better part of 10 years now.

Hops (Maumee) - Open from about 2001 - 2004 (give or take), this chain brewpub based in Florida generally served uninspired, basic brews. Still, the beer was definitely a step up from industrial swill, and the food was surprisingly good.

Arrowhead (Maumee) - Owned by the folks that ran Maumee Bay into the ground, it never stood a chance. Lasted a year or two before closing.

Meyer Brewing (Delphos) - This is going back 9 or 10 years, but I recall buying a few sixers of "Copper Ale", the flagship (and possibly only) beer from this fledgling brewery. I heard that this was pretty much a one-man operation (maybe a talented homebrewer who decided to bottle his stuff), and the beer was quite good.

Miami Trail (Xenia) - Damn, this beer was great. Located in an unassuming metal barn-like structure across the street from the police station at the Southern end of Xenia, the brews were one-of-a-kind. Extraordinarily hoppy, yet somehow balanced, the Pale Ale and Red Ale stood out. I made many a two-hour trip to hit this place and Thirsty Dog (see below), and it was always well worth it.

Thirsty Dog (Centerville) - Maybe Beth's favorite place, and always a must-stop after biking the Miami Trail around Yellow Springs. The food and atmosphere were both ok, and the beer wasn't world-class, but they would sometimes brew seasonals that were great. For example, they made a pumpkin ale years ago that Beth and I still talk about. Just a fun place to go when it was open.

Hoster's (Columbus, Toledo) - This place thrived for years in the Columbus brewery district, and bottled several good beers (notably the Reverend Purley Pale Ale, and 90 Shilling Ale). It was a fun place to hang out when in Columbus, but when they inexplicably made the decision to open a second pub on the river in Toledo, the deck of cards collapsed. The T-town Hoster's closed a year (or less) after it opened, and the Columbus spot followed.

Liberty Street (Akron) - On Weathervane Lane down the hill from the Stan Hywet Gardens, this place served good beer, and featured a New Orleans-inspired menu that wasn't bad. I remember wasting away a Saturday afternoon here watching basketball and drinking well.

B and O (Youngstown) - This terrific brewpub came along later (around 2002/2003) and only lasted for a year or two. It was a beautiful place, located inside an actual working train station, and the beer was excellent.

Crooked River (Cleveland) - One of only two breweries on the list that I never actually visited in person, but the beers were rock-solid. I specifically remember their Black Forest Lager, a nutty, rich lager that was too easy to drink.

Western Reserve (Cleveland) - The other place I never visited, but pretty damn good beer. I loved their wheat, and the Island Hops brew was fantastic.

The Quarrymen (Berea) - Now resurrected in the same location as the more upscale Cornerstone Brewery, this place had solid food and great beer back in the day. I recall the owner ran into some legal trouble, and the place eventually shut down.


Depressing, isn't it? I need a beer.

Tasting Notes (Mar. 20): O Brave New World

Thursday was the latest "Old World vs. New World" contest, and, even though the Old World squeaked by with a win last time, the New World took this contest handily. Things are officially tied up.

Chardonnay: Burgundy vs. Napa
1. Savigny Les Beaune Montchenevoy 2004 (France; $49.99/bottle)
For the California chardonnay lover, this wine will seem perhaps too lean, too crisply acidic. But I really enjoyed it. With a nose of citrus, butter, chalk, and a wisp of smoke and flavors of tart green apple, lemon curd, and minerals, this Burgundy would be great with shrimp, scallops, or flaky white fish.

2. Chateau Montelena 2005 (California; $39.99/bottle)
This wine is also surprisingly lean, considering that it comes from the Napa Valley, the home of many rich, unctuous chardonnays. A nose of ripe tropical fruit, bubble gum, and light toast gives way to a medium-bodied palate showing zesty lemon, cream, and toast notes. Finish is slightly herbal. This is a nice chardonnay, but in the end, the Burgundy just had a bit more going on.

Winner: Old World

Pinot Noir: Burgundy vs. Oregon
1. Louis Latour Pommard 2004 (France; $48.99/bottle)
With a nose of black cherry, earth, and wildflowers and flavors of wild brambles, black cherry, and gamy earth, this wine's real strength is its very smooth, silky texture in the mouth. Would be perfect with a seared duck breast or even wild game.

2. Ken Wright Canary Hill 2006 (Oregon; $26.99/bottle)
The nose on this pinot was actually quite muted on this night, though I detected some earth and herb notes. But the flavor was anything but muted, with bright, ripe cherry and rhubarb fruit, zippy spice, and damp earth. This wine is not overly complex, but the lively texture, balanced acidity, and kinetic finish make this wine stand out. This was the closest pairing of the night, and truth be told, it could have gone either way. But I had to give the nod to the Ken Wright for the finish.

Winner: New World

Rhone Blend: Chateauneuf-du-Pape vs. Australia
1. Paul Artaud Chadeauneuf-du-Pape 2005 (France; $39.99/bottle)
The nose shows some dark berries, brine/sea air, and black olive. The flavor reveals raspberry, blackberry, licorice, and spice, with a dry, tannic finish. Not a bad wine, but overall this effort seems one-dimensional (especially one from the instantly classic 2005 vintage).
2. John Duval Plexus 2005 (Australia; $38.99/bottle)
This Rhone-style blend has an enticing nose of ripe black and blue berries, lots of rich clove and spice, and a fine veneer of oaky vanilla. Very ripe and full-bodied, with dark berries, black olives, and spicy pepper notes on the palate. The spicy finish is fairly long. This pairing was no contest.

Winner: New World

Merlot: Italy vs. California
1. Falesco Montiano 2003 (Italy; $39.99/bottle)
Offers a nose of black plum, blackberry, caramel, and something bacon-like. The flavor profile is both interesting and tasty, with very dark fruit, a touch of smoke, stewed peppers, and a finish of licorice and black pepper. This is a very nice, medium-full bodied wine that would go great with pasta bolognese or any other meaty tomato dish. Moderately tannic; will develop over the next 3-6 years.

2. Delectus Stanton Vineyard 2001 (California; $44.99/bottle)
This medium-full bodied merlot's plummy, vanilla-scented nose gives way to a complex, super-spicy, dark palate of ripe black plum, vanilla, licorice, and earthy leather. Very, very good.

Winner: New World

And the winner is: not even close--New World! But don't count the Euros out just yet. The score is now 1-1, and I think a couple of the Old World selections for this tasting under-performed for the categories they represented. [Edited: really, it was only the CdP that "under-performed;" the other Old Worlds on the losing end were just outperformed.] I'm looking forward to the rubber match--and this time, it'll be personal! (I don't know what I mean, either.)

Tasting Notes (Mar. 13): Back in Business!

This tasting of red blends was a nice transition back into drinking wine after the previous week's bout of the flu. With only a couple super-rich, thick reds on tap, the lineup didn't threaten to rekindle my queasy stomach the way a hedonistic blast of extracted fruit bombs might have. And even the quite rich wines in this lineup--the Clos Apalta (#7) comes to mind--had a tannic grip and/or spicy bite to provide balance and keep things in the realm of the non-regurgitory (and even, much to my pleasant surprise that night, the downright delicious).

1. Chateau Fontarney 2004 (France; $33.99/bottle)
This new release Bordeaux has a nice, earthy nose. Medium-full bodied on the palate, with flavors of black cherry, tar, and leathery earth. Medium-grained tannins really dry things out on the finish. Not bad; might mellow a bit in 2-3 years.

2. Domaine Le Couroulu Vacqueyras 2003 (France; $19.99/bottle)
This is a nice entry-level Rhone, and, at under $20, it's a great value. Not as assertive as some Rhones (again, great for those new to the very distinctive wines of this region), this nevertheless full-bodied and quite silky red leads off with rich fruit, which immediately gives way to a jolt of pepper, culminating in a lightly briny finish. Finishes with slightly drying tannins. Would go nicely with grilled beef or lamb.

3. Joseph Phelps Le Mistral 2003 (California; $35.99/bottle)
Named for the cold, strong Alpine wind that periodically sweeps through the Rhone valley (and whose effects are important to Rhone wine production), this blend of typical Rhone grapes (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) is nevertheless all California in temprament: thick and full-bodied, with big black/blue berry fruit, layered with spice and licorice notes. The zippy finish smacks of mint. This is an easy-drinking, juicy wine, but with a touch of complexity as well.

4. Ridge Geyserville 2005 (California; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend was the crowd favorite at the tasting, and with good reason. The big, fruity nose of wild berries, chocolate, and vanilla portends a rich, full body and a lusciously thick mouthfeel, with firm bands of pepper and spice to both cut and compliment the richness. A touch of heat from the alcohol appears on the finish, but not enough to make me--or anyone else, I suspect--care.

5. Massena The Moonlight Run 2005 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
This wine may not have been my favorite of the night (see #4, or maybe #6, or maybe #7), it is inarguably one of the most interesting in terms of aroma, flavor, and body. The nose of blackberry and sweet spice is infused with a surprisingly floral, almost perfumed, component, while the flavor comes through with berry, clove, medicinal herb, and a mortar-full of crushed violets. But the real note of interest is the body, which, while very full, is nevertheless lightened by a surprising bolt of acidity. As a result, this may be one of the most food-flexible but still super-ripe Aussie reds around.

6. Mas de Can Blau 2005 (Spain; $49.99/bottle)
After tasting high-end Spanish wines like the Numanthia Termes and the El Nido, I was expecting a great big bomb of a wine, but the Mas de Can Blau shows some restraint. Still, the wine is quite full-bodied, with an intense, concentrated nose of plum, berry, vanilla, and earth and complex flavors of dark berries, vanilla, oak, tar, and peppery spice. Like the Ridge, this one shows a touch of heat on the finish, but nothing to get worked up about. An extremely strong effort.

7. Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2003 (Chile; $65.99/bottle)
This Chilean red offers an enticing if unusual nose of ripe berries, stewed bell peppers, and dark caramel. With a fleshy, full-body and an extremely velvety mouthfeel, the palate offers loads of pepper, black plum, and blackberry, all set against a rich, almost meaty (meatloafy) backdrop. Thick, concentrated, and delicious, with integrated tannins providing ample structure.