Tasting Notes (July 17): Spanish Wines Are Good

More and more, I'm convinced that Spain is the way to go for value wines. Whether $10, $20, $30 or more, it's a good bet that whatever Spanish wine you're drinking will outperform its price point. That's not to say that Spain isn't also turning out mediocre and poor wines. Every wine-producing region in the world turns out lackluster wines. But Spain consistently produces some amazing surprises. Just look at Vina Alarba, Las Rocas, and Altos de Luzon, all of which provide exceptional quality at a very affordable price, and--in the slightly more expensive range--Bodega Numanthia, whose "Termes" can be a revelation at less than $40.

Not only that, but Spain also has the added distinction of producing, with equal aplomb, both "Old World" and "New World" styles of wines, where "Old World" denotes wines of finesse and subtlety, often with elegant but not overpowering fruit and distinctly earthy notes, and "New World" denotes more thick, juicy, fruit-forward wines with real oomph. (Think about the difference between a sauce based on a flavorful broth versus a sauce based on a heavily-reduced stock, and you'll have something of an idea: both are extremely satisfying, but they have very different textures and viscosities.)

So, if you're looking for a good value and are tired of the same old Aussie fruit bombs (Milton Park--I'm looking at you), you could do a lot worse than to take a vinous trip to Spain.

Now, the notes:

1. Adegas Morgadio Albarino 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This lightly creamy white has a nose of apples and what I can only describe as chicken searing in olive oil. Medium-bodied, it boasts flavors of apple, bitter herbs, and a crescendo of white pepper from the back end to the finish. Try pairing this pleasant wine with light, flaky fish or scallops.

2. Vinicola del Prioriat "Onix" 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
This wine is always hailed as a "best value," and when I tried it a year ago, I didn't see what the fuss was about. Now, with another year of bottle age, its firm tannins have softened a bit and the flavors have begun to blossom. Both the nose and the palate show rich, meaty blackberry, vanilla, and mineral notes. Full-bodied and smooth, though it could still use another year or two to fully come into its own.

3. Can Blau 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
A great value, this medium-full-bodied red has a rich nose of plums, violets, and baking spices. Dark, earthy flavors of spices, wet leaves, and smoked bologna are buoyed by vibrant acidity. Try this one with cured sausage.

4. San Vicente Rioja 2001 ($39.99/bottle)
This tempranillo-based wine has a fantastic, super-earthy nose of worn leather, wet soil, and graphite. Sweetly ripe, with a smooth, medium body and flavors of double-shot mocha, black cherry, and graphite. Still-gripping tannins and sprightly acidity will allow this wine to age gracefully for 3-5 or more years. Think beef stew with lots of mushrooms for a food pairing.

5. Mas Doix Salanques 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is sharp and tarry, with additional wildflower and raspberry cola notes. Lively acidity and cola notes on the palate put one in mind of Pinot Noir, but then a torrent of meaty and tarry flavors whisk you quickly back to Priorat.

6. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
This smooth, rich, medium-full-bodied garnacha (grenache) has a nose of crushed black and blue berries, vanilla, clove, and cinnamon and flavors of blueberry, vanilla, spice, and pepper notes. Reminds me of a slightly lighter-bodied Aussie Shiraz.

7. Lese Eres Vinyes Velles Priorat 2001 ($64.99/bottle)
The nose on this red offers bold wild berry, meat, and violet notes. On the palate it is brambly and spicy, with dark, tarry notes and black cherry and cranberry fruit. Finishes fresh and tart. Would be ideal for bolognese or other red meat sauce dishes.