Thursday, August 14, 2008

Tasting Notes (July 24): Stag's Leap

While I don't know for sure, I feel safe in saying that this tasting was the most geographically specific one in Stimmels' history. The Stag's Leap American Viticultural Area (AVA) is actually a tiny sub-region inside the already-smallish Napa Valley in California. Located along a short stretch of the Vaca mountain range, which forms the eastern border of the valley, Stag's Leap is home to some of my favorite wineries anywhere, not the least of which is the legendary Stag's Leap Wine Cellars--whose flagship "S.L.V." Cabernet Sauvignon stunned the wine world in 1976 by besting a slew of top French Bordeauxs in the infmaous "judgment of Paris." Unfortunately, the S.L.V. couldn't be a part of this lineup, and my other favorite Stag's Leap Cab, from Regusci, had been poured too recently to be included. Still, this was a great night of wine, and I have to say that, while the Shafer was clearly the best wine overall, the Stags' Leap Winery's (note: not the same as the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, but rather a different winery altogether) Petit Syrah (normally spelled Petit Sirah) was a brilliant offering as well.

Now the notes:

1. Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
If memory serves, this was the only wine in the lineup not at least partially sourced from Stag's Leap (which, as I understand it, is too cool to produce great Sauv Blancs). The classic nose shows citrus, grass, and a subtle chive note. Light-medium bodied, with a pleasingly bold shock of acidity animating fresh, clean citrus and herbal flavors. The finish has an interesting minerally tinge. I tasted several Sauv Blancs in Napa Valley recently, and many of them were flabby and uninteresting. Not this one. Seek it out.

2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2006 ($33.99/bottle)
This medium bodied Chard is made in a crisp style, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, minerals, and smoke. A light touch of butter adds depth without weighing the wine down. Perfect for Lobster--which I know you (yeah, you) eat all the time!

3. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
SLWC is known for its Merlot, so I was excited to try this one. The nose doesn't disappoint, with a complex mix of spicy plum, oak, pencil lead, and dry brown dirt. Flavors of tart but ripe plums, tar and earth, however, are virtually sandblasted away by scratchy tannins. If the fruit holds out, this could still be a nice wine in a few years. Let's hope. Try this one in 2-5 years to see if it's more accessible.

4. Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
This full bodied Cab has a rich, plump nose of cassis, leather, cinnamon, and violets. With a beautiful, velvety mouthfeel, it offers flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa, and black licorice. Dark, rich, and big, with medium-grained tannins providing plenty of "grip." Nice.

5. Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.99/bottle)
Stag's Leap reds often hint of the Old World, with subtle earthy notes not common in the rest of the valley. The Silverado Cab was the one in tonight's lineup that came closest to fitting this mold, with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoke. On the palate it is full bodied and ripe, with flavors of sweet berries, peppery spice, and a little bit of tobacco. The big fruit and assertive tannins should harmonize in 5-7 years. I can't wait.

6. Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five 2004 ($75.99/bottle)
Clearly the star in this lineup, the Shafer is a beautiful, full bodied wine. The nose shows cassis, black earth, and violets, while the dark, rich, chocolatey palate is buttressed by firm but fine tannins. The finish is wonderfully dark and bitter. As I tasted this wine, I wanted an equally rich prime rib to go with it.

7. Stag's Leap Winery Petit Syrah 2005 ($38.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, jammy nose with notes of smoke, menthol, and caramel. Very full bodied, this wine is big, tannic, and rich, with flavors of dark fruits and smoke and a big, licoricey finish. A real eye-opener. What to pair it with? Grilled steak, grilled steak, grilled steak. Or maybe grilled steak.