This tasting of red blends was a nice transition back into drinking wine after the previous week's bout of the flu. With only a couple super-rich, thick reds on tap, the lineup didn't threaten to rekindle my queasy stomach the way a hedonistic blast of extracted fruit bombs might have. And even the quite rich wines in this lineup--the Clos Apalta (#7) comes to mind--had a tannic grip and/or spicy bite to provide balance and keep things in the realm of the non-regurgitory (and even, much to my pleasant surprise that night, the downright delicious).
1. Chateau Fontarney 2004 (France; $33.99/bottle)
This new release Bordeaux has a nice, earthy nose. Medium-full bodied on the palate, with flavors of black cherry, tar, and leathery earth. Medium-grained tannins really dry things out on the finish. Not bad; might mellow a bit in 2-3 years.
2. Domaine Le Couroulu Vacqueyras 2003 (France; $19.99/bottle)
This is a nice entry-level Rhone, and, at under $20, it's a great value. Not as assertive as some Rhones (again, great for those new to the very distinctive wines of this region), this nevertheless full-bodied and quite silky red leads off with rich fruit, which immediately gives way to a jolt of pepper, culminating in a lightly briny finish. Finishes with slightly drying tannins. Would go nicely with grilled beef or lamb.
3. Joseph Phelps Le Mistral 2003 (California; $35.99/bottle)
Named for the cold, strong Alpine wind that periodically sweeps through the Rhone valley (and whose effects are important to Rhone wine production), this blend of typical Rhone grapes (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) is nevertheless all California in temprament: thick and full-bodied, with big black/blue berry fruit, layered with spice and licorice notes. The zippy finish smacks of mint. This is an easy-drinking, juicy wine, but with a touch of complexity as well.
4. Ridge Geyserville 2005 (California; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend was the crowd favorite at the tasting, and with good reason. The big, fruity nose of wild berries, chocolate, and vanilla portends a rich, full body and a lusciously thick mouthfeel, with firm bands of pepper and spice to both cut and compliment the richness. A touch of heat from the alcohol appears on the finish, but not enough to make me--or anyone else, I suspect--care.
5. Massena The Moonlight Run 2005 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
This wine may not have been my favorite of the night (see #4, or maybe #6, or maybe #7), it is inarguably one of the most interesting in terms of aroma, flavor, and body. The nose of blackberry and sweet spice is infused with a surprisingly floral, almost perfumed, component, while the flavor comes through with berry, clove, medicinal herb, and a mortar-full of crushed violets. But the real note of interest is the body, which, while very full, is nevertheless lightened by a surprising bolt of acidity. As a result, this may be one of the most food-flexible but still super-ripe Aussie reds around.
6. Mas de Can Blau 2005 (Spain; $49.99/bottle)
After tasting high-end Spanish wines like the Numanthia Termes and the El Nido, I was expecting a great big bomb of a wine, but the Mas de Can Blau shows some restraint. Still, the wine is quite full-bodied, with an intense, concentrated nose of plum, berry, vanilla, and earth and complex flavors of dark berries, vanilla, oak, tar, and peppery spice. Like the Ridge, this one shows a touch of heat on the finish, but nothing to get worked up about. An extremely strong effort.
7. Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2003 (Chile; $65.99/bottle)
This Chilean red offers an enticing if unusual nose of ripe berries, stewed bell peppers, and dark caramel. With a fleshy, full-body and an extremely velvety mouthfeel, the palate offers loads of pepper, black plum, and blackberry, all set against a rich, almost meaty (meatloafy) backdrop. Thick, concentrated, and delicious, with integrated tannins providing ample structure.
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