Thursday was the latest "Old World vs. New World" contest, and, even though the Old World squeaked by with a win last time, the New World took this contest handily. Things are officially tied up.
Chardonnay: Burgundy vs. Napa
1. Savigny Les Beaune Montchenevoy 2004 (France; $49.99/bottle)
For the California chardonnay lover, this wine will seem perhaps too lean, too crisply acidic. But I really enjoyed it. With a nose of citrus, butter, chalk, and a wisp of smoke and flavors of tart green apple, lemon curd, and minerals, this Burgundy would be great with shrimp, scallops, or flaky white fish.
2. Chateau Montelena 2005 (California; $39.99/bottle)
This wine is also surprisingly lean, considering that it comes from the Napa Valley, the home of many rich, unctuous chardonnays. A nose of ripe tropical fruit, bubble gum, and light toast gives way to a medium-bodied palate showing zesty lemon, cream, and toast notes. Finish is slightly herbal. This is a nice chardonnay, but in the end, the Burgundy just had a bit more going on.
Winner: Old World
Pinot Noir: Burgundy vs. Oregon
1. Louis Latour Pommard 2004 (France; $48.99/bottle)
With a nose of black cherry, earth, and wildflowers and flavors of wild brambles, black cherry, and gamy earth, this wine's real strength is its very smooth, silky texture in the mouth. Would be perfect with a seared duck breast or even wild game.
2. Ken Wright Canary Hill 2006 (Oregon; $26.99/bottle)
The nose on this pinot was actually quite muted on this night, though I detected some earth and herb notes. But the flavor was anything but muted, with bright, ripe cherry and rhubarb fruit, zippy spice, and damp earth. This wine is not overly complex, but the lively texture, balanced acidity, and kinetic finish make this wine stand out. This was the closest pairing of the night, and truth be told, it could have gone either way. But I had to give the nod to the Ken Wright for the finish.
Winner: New World
Rhone Blend: Chateauneuf-du-Pape vs. Australia
1. Paul Artaud Chadeauneuf-du-Pape 2005 (France; $39.99/bottle)
The nose shows some dark berries, brine/sea air, and black olive. The flavor reveals raspberry, blackberry, licorice, and spice, with a dry, tannic finish. Not a bad wine, but overall this effort seems one-dimensional (especially one from the instantly classic 2005 vintage).
2. John Duval Plexus 2005 (Australia; $38.99/bottle)
This Rhone-style blend has an enticing nose of ripe black and blue berries, lots of rich clove and spice, and a fine veneer of oaky vanilla. Very ripe and full-bodied, with dark berries, black olives, and spicy pepper notes on the palate. The spicy finish is fairly long. This pairing was no contest.
Winner: New World
Merlot: Italy vs. California
1. Falesco Montiano 2003 (Italy; $39.99/bottle)
Offers a nose of black plum, blackberry, caramel, and something bacon-like. The flavor profile is both interesting and tasty, with very dark fruit, a touch of smoke, stewed peppers, and a finish of licorice and black pepper. This is a very nice, medium-full bodied wine that would go great with pasta bolognese or any other meaty tomato dish. Moderately tannic; will develop over the next 3-6 years.
2. Delectus Stanton Vineyard 2001 (California; $44.99/bottle)
This medium-full bodied merlot's plummy, vanilla-scented nose gives way to a complex, super-spicy, dark palate of ripe black plum, vanilla, licorice, and earthy leather. Very, very good.
Winner: New World
And the winner is: not even close--New World! But don't count the Euros out just yet. The score is now 1-1, and I think a couple of the Old World selections for this tasting under-performed for the categories they represented. [Edited: really, it was only the CdP that "under-performed;" the other Old Worlds on the losing end were just outperformed.] I'm looking forward to the rubber match--and this time, it'll be personal! (I don't know what I mean, either.)
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