I usually try to give my posts their own titles, but this week I couldn't think of anything that better represents my take on this week's wines than the title on the tasting sheet: Tour de France. These bottles come from all over France, with only the Loire valley being represented twice (one red, one white). And, while Bill and Sara could have tossed in a wine from, say, the Languedoc just to spread the wealth a little more, I like the fact that they opted for two wines from the Loire, which gets very short shrift in the American wine market (at least, a certain segment of it). There is, of course, something to be said for tasting several wines from the same region--a model Stimmel's frequently adopts--but every once in a while one just feels like playing the field. When that happens, you want a tasting like this one. C'est bon!
These notes are in the order in which they appear on the tasting sheet, though I tried the reds first.
1. Piper Heidsieck Brut NV (Champagne; $39.99/bottle)
This refreshing brut has a crisp nose of herbs and brioche, and the slight richness of the palate is nicely balanced by a bitter herb note. This bubbly would be great with just about anything deep fried, though I'm thinking oysters would be especially nice.
2. Weinbach Gewürtztraminer Cuvee Theo 2004 (Alsace; $54.99/bottle)
This is a nice, if surprising, Gewürtz. With aromas of sweet peach nectar and a touch of rubber, the nose offers the first hint that this wine is off-dry instead of bone dry, like most Alsatian whites. The lightly sweet palate of peach and apricot followed by spice and petrol is very smooth.
3. Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2002 (Burgundy; $99.99/bottle)
The nose on this light-bodied red offers enticing aromas of black cherry, mineral, and damp earth. The palate is bright and lively, with tangy fruit up front and earthy tannins on the back end. Finish is long and graced by just a touch of white pepper.
4. Olek-Mery Chinon 2004 (Loire; $26.99/bottle)
This was the first Chinon I've tasted. (I said the Loire gets short shrift, didn't I? I wasn't excluding myself from that phenomenon.) It was unlike anything I've tried before, which is exactly what one wants in a new wine experience, though time and more experience will render me better able to assess the quality of the wine. Black fruit, musk, and lots of dust define the nose, while the palate shows licorice, mint, and medicinal herb, finishing with dusty pepper. I don't think I'd just pour a glass to drink by itself, but my instincts say that nothing would go better with pepper steak (or any meat cooked with lots of green peppers).
5. Chateau Giscours 2004 (Bordeaux; $39.99/bottle)
This is trademark Bordeaux on the nose, showing sweet currant, earth, and barnyard. The medium-full-bodied palate covers more ground, offering tart blackberry, black currant, earth, and black licorice notes, with tobacco emerging on the finish. The plush mouthfeel helps to soften the tannins. Good now; will be a lot better in 3-5 years.
6. B. Levet Cote-Rotie 2003 (Rhone; $76.99/bottle)
The nose on this northern Rhone red reveals wild berries and crushed violets set against a superripe black olive note--very sensual. The flavor shows very dark fruits, strong dust, and pepper, with a finish of black olive brine. Full-bodied, with fine tannins.
7. Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux 2005 (Loire; $72.99/bottle)
Though this wine is sweet, the nose doesn't let you know, with a bready, herbal, Champagne-like character. These notes are also present on the palate, though they're laid over a lush bed of sweetness and a light minerality. While the flavors still need time to harmonize, the racy acidity and lush body will allow this Vouvray to stay in the bottle for 10, 20, or more years.
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