Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Tasting Notes (May 8): I'm going to Napa!

I have two sets of notes still on the line from past tastings, but since I'll be leaving for Napa Valley in two days (woohoo!), I thought I'd go ahead and post the notes from the most recent Thursday tasting, California Cabs. Besides, I've been doing some reflecting on these posts, and it occurs to me that if I were coming to Stimmels' blog to read somebody else's tasting notes, I'd get a lot more enjoyment out of it if I were reading notes from a tasting still fresh in my mind. So, here are the freshest notes I have, and the ones I'm totally jazzed about, because--did I mention?--I'm going to Napa in two days. I don't know what my internet access situation will be there, but if it's reasonable, I'll throw up a quick post or two (maybe with pictures) from the road. "Stimmel's on Location," here I come!

Now, the notes. All wines except the Pilliteri Ice Wine are from California; more specific American Viticultural Areas are listed when applicable:

1. Cartlidge and Browne 2006 (California; $12.99/bottle)
California cabs as a group aren't making anybody's list for "best values:" they're good, and their prices usually show it. That's what makes this wine so nice. There may be better $12.99 bottles in the store (especially from South America, Spain, Australia, or even South Africa), but as a Cali Cab, this one is quite a value, delivering solid quality for not much money. It is medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, cedar, and violets. (This is an especially good value when you consider that as I write this I'm drinking a $15.99 bottle of Michael Pozznan Annabella Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and it's not as good as the C&B.)

2. Joseph Phelps Napa 2003 (Napa; $49.99/bottle)
2003 was a tough year for Napa, and while this is definitely not a bad wine, and is even by some measures a good one, you get a sense that the folks at Phelps had to do a lot of manipulating during the winemaking process to get the wine up to expectations. Vanilla stands out on both the nose and the full-bodied palate, slightly cloaking what are otherwise very nice ripe currant, earth, and spice notes. One wonders whether a bit of extra oak wasn't necessary to make up for an otherwise lean vintage.

3. Regusci Stags Leap 2005 (Stag's Leap/Napa; $54.99/bottle)
This wine was a pleasant surprise. Not that I wasn't expecting it to be good; I was--very good. But the prominent graphite notes and even a touch of barnyard to go with the more conventional blackberry, spice, and toasty oak gave it an unexpected old world quality (it reminds me of a cab-based Tuscan). Good acidity and solid but fine tannic structure, with some additional tar notes emerging on the finish. Very nice.

4. Parallel Napa 2005 (Napa; $59.99/bottle)
The nose on this full-bodied red offers dark berries, black currant, toasty oak, and aromatic wildflowers--very sensual. Beautifully smooth on the palate, with rich tannins and flavors of currant, cherry, spice, and toasty oak. Great now; I'd love to come back in 5 or even 10 years and try it again. (I don't understand why Spectator gave it 85; I'd go a full 5-7 points higher.)

5. Caymus Napa 2005 (Napa; $75.99/bottle)
The Caymus has a nice nose of purple and dark fruits, spice, and lots of appealing damp earth. The palate is full-bodied, with a very smooth, almost lanolin mouthfeel. This cab is big, tannic, and young, but even now the flavors of black plum, black currant, black earth, and spicy tar show nicely. I sense even more trhing to come through; needs 3-5 years minimum and will be good for another 10+ years.

6. D.R. Stephens Napa Moose Valley Vineyard 2003 (Napa; $99.99/bottle)
The nose is complex but balanced, with classic cab notes of currant, earth, oak, and spice. The palate shows sweet ripe currant and dark berries, earth, and spice, with a hint of black licorice and a long, earthy finish. Full-bodied, with a smooth, satiny mouthfeel and firm but integrated tannins, this wine is still young at 5 years old. Really good, but needs another 5-10 years to be fully expressive.

7. Pilliteri Icewine Riesling 2004 (Ontario, CA; $28.99/187 ml bottle)
Sweet and lush, with aromas and flavors of canned peach and honeysuckle. Pretty good acidity, though the sweetness definitely still comes through. This is a tasty dessert wine, but at this price I'd go with a Tokaji or Sauternes--Stimmel's has great examples of both at comparable or even better prices per mililiter.

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