R.I.P.

I headed up north with some friends back in February to the 3rd annual Michigan Brewers Guild Winter Beer Festival. After attending the first two fests in grossly undersized venues in beautiful downtown Lansing, this year's event was held inside a minor league baseball park in Grand Rapids (a smart move), and while still a tad too crowded, a great time was had by all. The Michigan Brewers Guild (a large group of commercial brewers, home brewers and beer enthusiasts) also holds a terrific summer festival every July in Ypsilanti, and most of the breweries throughout the Wolverine State attend - roughly 30-35 breweries are pouring their brews at each festival, so it's a great way to sample some of the best beer in the region, if not the country. I have been to 8 summer fests in Ypsilanti in a row (I'm beginning to lose track as I get older...), and I started fondly thinking about some of the breweries that have gone extinct for whatever reason.

So I found myself yesterday up in Ann Arbor with my kids looking for a place to eat, and as I drove by the "Kerrytown Shops" I was reminded of one of the very first "microbreweries" that I visited (back in '96 or '97) called Brewbaker's, located in the basement of the mini-mall. Brewbaker's was exactly what the name implies: part artisan bakery, part microbrewery, and I remember taking home a six-pack of their German Helles Lager and a loaf of bread, both which were delicious. Many more trips followed, until they unexpectedly (to me) closed the doors a year or two later.

Now, despite some of the Michigan breweries that are dearly departed, the craft beer scene up north is very healthy, unlike here in Ohio, where it seems to be struggling a bit. That wasn't always the case though, and just like my discovery of Brewbaker's some 11 years ago, I was also introduced to dozens of great breweries in the Buckeye State around the same time. I'd say sometime around 1998 - 1999, Ohio boasted a craft beer scene every bit as strong as Michigan, but by 2002 or so, it had all but collapsed. For what it's worth, and in no particular order, here is a roll call of what I remember to be some of the good to great Ohio microbreweries/brewpubs that are gone, but not forgotten:

Frontwaters (Marblehead) - Also one of the first breweries that I visited back in the day, Beth and I always stopped in here whenever we were near the lake. Great atmosphere, good beer, and good food (although a tad overpriced). They distributed their beer for a while, all in 22 oz. bottles I think, and I remember a "Gale Force" or "Gale Warning" beer that was especially tasty.

Maumee Bay (Toledo) - Still technically making beer I suppose, but the actual restaurant has closed down. Circa 1998, this place was one of my favorites anywhere - they had outstanding beer, like an award-winning Hefeweizen and the delicious Winter ale, Blitzen. The food and atmosphere were top-notch (a beer cheese soup used to be outta sight), and they even bottled many of their beers under the "Major Oliver" label. Bit by bit, everything started to change for the worse (the food was practically inedible, and the beer is a shadow of what it was) and it's been dying a slow death for the better part of 10 years now.

Hops (Maumee) - Open from about 2001 - 2004 (give or take), this chain brewpub based in Florida generally served uninspired, basic brews. Still, the beer was definitely a step up from industrial swill, and the food was surprisingly good.

Arrowhead (Maumee) - Owned by the folks that ran Maumee Bay into the ground, it never stood a chance. Lasted a year or two before closing.

Meyer Brewing (Delphos) - This is going back 9 or 10 years, but I recall buying a few sixers of "Copper Ale", the flagship (and possibly only) beer from this fledgling brewery. I heard that this was pretty much a one-man operation (maybe a talented homebrewer who decided to bottle his stuff), and the beer was quite good.

Miami Trail (Xenia) - Damn, this beer was great. Located in an unassuming metal barn-like structure across the street from the police station at the Southern end of Xenia, the brews were one-of-a-kind. Extraordinarily hoppy, yet somehow balanced, the Pale Ale and Red Ale stood out. I made many a two-hour trip to hit this place and Thirsty Dog (see below), and it was always well worth it.

Thirsty Dog (Centerville) - Maybe Beth's favorite place, and always a must-stop after biking the Miami Trail around Yellow Springs. The food and atmosphere were both ok, and the beer wasn't world-class, but they would sometimes brew seasonals that were great. For example, they made a pumpkin ale years ago that Beth and I still talk about. Just a fun place to go when it was open.

Hoster's (Columbus, Toledo) - This place thrived for years in the Columbus brewery district, and bottled several good beers (notably the Reverend Purley Pale Ale, and 90 Shilling Ale). It was a fun place to hang out when in Columbus, but when they inexplicably made the decision to open a second pub on the river in Toledo, the deck of cards collapsed. The T-town Hoster's closed a year (or less) after it opened, and the Columbus spot followed.

Liberty Street (Akron) - On Weathervane Lane down the hill from the Stan Hywet Gardens, this place served good beer, and featured a New Orleans-inspired menu that wasn't bad. I remember wasting away a Saturday afternoon here watching basketball and drinking well.

B and O (Youngstown) - This terrific brewpub came along later (around 2002/2003) and only lasted for a year or two. It was a beautiful place, located inside an actual working train station, and the beer was excellent.

Crooked River (Cleveland) - One of only two breweries on the list that I never actually visited in person, but the beers were rock-solid. I specifically remember their Black Forest Lager, a nutty, rich lager that was too easy to drink.

Western Reserve (Cleveland) - The other place I never visited, but pretty damn good beer. I loved their wheat, and the Island Hops brew was fantastic.

The Quarrymen (Berea) - Now resurrected in the same location as the more upscale Cornerstone Brewery, this place had solid food and great beer back in the day. I recall the owner ran into some legal trouble, and the place eventually shut down.


Depressing, isn't it? I need a beer.

Tasting Notes (Mar. 20): O Brave New World

Thursday was the latest "Old World vs. New World" contest, and, even though the Old World squeaked by with a win last time, the New World took this contest handily. Things are officially tied up.

Chardonnay: Burgundy vs. Napa
1. Savigny Les Beaune Montchenevoy 2004 (France; $49.99/bottle)
For the California chardonnay lover, this wine will seem perhaps too lean, too crisply acidic. But I really enjoyed it. With a nose of citrus, butter, chalk, and a wisp of smoke and flavors of tart green apple, lemon curd, and minerals, this Burgundy would be great with shrimp, scallops, or flaky white fish.

2. Chateau Montelena 2005 (California; $39.99/bottle)
This wine is also surprisingly lean, considering that it comes from the Napa Valley, the home of many rich, unctuous chardonnays. A nose of ripe tropical fruit, bubble gum, and light toast gives way to a medium-bodied palate showing zesty lemon, cream, and toast notes. Finish is slightly herbal. This is a nice chardonnay, but in the end, the Burgundy just had a bit more going on.

Winner: Old World

Pinot Noir: Burgundy vs. Oregon
1. Louis Latour Pommard 2004 (France; $48.99/bottle)
With a nose of black cherry, earth, and wildflowers and flavors of wild brambles, black cherry, and gamy earth, this wine's real strength is its very smooth, silky texture in the mouth. Would be perfect with a seared duck breast or even wild game.

2. Ken Wright Canary Hill 2006 (Oregon; $26.99/bottle)
The nose on this pinot was actually quite muted on this night, though I detected some earth and herb notes. But the flavor was anything but muted, with bright, ripe cherry and rhubarb fruit, zippy spice, and damp earth. This wine is not overly complex, but the lively texture, balanced acidity, and kinetic finish make this wine stand out. This was the closest pairing of the night, and truth be told, it could have gone either way. But I had to give the nod to the Ken Wright for the finish.

Winner: New World

Rhone Blend: Chateauneuf-du-Pape vs. Australia
1. Paul Artaud Chadeauneuf-du-Pape 2005 (France; $39.99/bottle)
The nose shows some dark berries, brine/sea air, and black olive. The flavor reveals raspberry, blackberry, licorice, and spice, with a dry, tannic finish. Not a bad wine, but overall this effort seems one-dimensional (especially one from the instantly classic 2005 vintage).
2. John Duval Plexus 2005 (Australia; $38.99/bottle)
This Rhone-style blend has an enticing nose of ripe black and blue berries, lots of rich clove and spice, and a fine veneer of oaky vanilla. Very ripe and full-bodied, with dark berries, black olives, and spicy pepper notes on the palate. The spicy finish is fairly long. This pairing was no contest.

Winner: New World

Merlot: Italy vs. California
1. Falesco Montiano 2003 (Italy; $39.99/bottle)
Offers a nose of black plum, blackberry, caramel, and something bacon-like. The flavor profile is both interesting and tasty, with very dark fruit, a touch of smoke, stewed peppers, and a finish of licorice and black pepper. This is a very nice, medium-full bodied wine that would go great with pasta bolognese or any other meaty tomato dish. Moderately tannic; will develop over the next 3-6 years.

2. Delectus Stanton Vineyard 2001 (California; $44.99/bottle)
This medium-full bodied merlot's plummy, vanilla-scented nose gives way to a complex, super-spicy, dark palate of ripe black plum, vanilla, licorice, and earthy leather. Very, very good.

Winner: New World

And the winner is: not even close--New World! But don't count the Euros out just yet. The score is now 1-1, and I think a couple of the Old World selections for this tasting under-performed for the categories they represented. [Edited: really, it was only the CdP that "under-performed;" the other Old Worlds on the losing end were just outperformed.] I'm looking forward to the rubber match--and this time, it'll be personal! (I don't know what I mean, either.)

Tasting Notes (Mar. 13): Back in Business!

This tasting of red blends was a nice transition back into drinking wine after the previous week's bout of the flu. With only a couple super-rich, thick reds on tap, the lineup didn't threaten to rekindle my queasy stomach the way a hedonistic blast of extracted fruit bombs might have. And even the quite rich wines in this lineup--the Clos Apalta (#7) comes to mind--had a tannic grip and/or spicy bite to provide balance and keep things in the realm of the non-regurgitory (and even, much to my pleasant surprise that night, the downright delicious).

1. Chateau Fontarney 2004 (France; $33.99/bottle)
This new release Bordeaux has a nice, earthy nose. Medium-full bodied on the palate, with flavors of black cherry, tar, and leathery earth. Medium-grained tannins really dry things out on the finish. Not bad; might mellow a bit in 2-3 years.

2. Domaine Le Couroulu Vacqueyras 2003 (France; $19.99/bottle)
This is a nice entry-level Rhone, and, at under $20, it's a great value. Not as assertive as some Rhones (again, great for those new to the very distinctive wines of this region), this nevertheless full-bodied and quite silky red leads off with rich fruit, which immediately gives way to a jolt of pepper, culminating in a lightly briny finish. Finishes with slightly drying tannins. Would go nicely with grilled beef or lamb.

3. Joseph Phelps Le Mistral 2003 (California; $35.99/bottle)
Named for the cold, strong Alpine wind that periodically sweeps through the Rhone valley (and whose effects are important to Rhone wine production), this blend of typical Rhone grapes (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) is nevertheless all California in temprament: thick and full-bodied, with big black/blue berry fruit, layered with spice and licorice notes. The zippy finish smacks of mint. This is an easy-drinking, juicy wine, but with a touch of complexity as well.

4. Ridge Geyserville 2005 (California; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend was the crowd favorite at the tasting, and with good reason. The big, fruity nose of wild berries, chocolate, and vanilla portends a rich, full body and a lusciously thick mouthfeel, with firm bands of pepper and spice to both cut and compliment the richness. A touch of heat from the alcohol appears on the finish, but not enough to make me--or anyone else, I suspect--care.

5. Massena The Moonlight Run 2005 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
This wine may not have been my favorite of the night (see #4, or maybe #6, or maybe #7), it is inarguably one of the most interesting in terms of aroma, flavor, and body. The nose of blackberry and sweet spice is infused with a surprisingly floral, almost perfumed, component, while the flavor comes through with berry, clove, medicinal herb, and a mortar-full of crushed violets. But the real note of interest is the body, which, while very full, is nevertheless lightened by a surprising bolt of acidity. As a result, this may be one of the most food-flexible but still super-ripe Aussie reds around.

6. Mas de Can Blau 2005 (Spain; $49.99/bottle)
After tasting high-end Spanish wines like the Numanthia Termes and the El Nido, I was expecting a great big bomb of a wine, but the Mas de Can Blau shows some restraint. Still, the wine is quite full-bodied, with an intense, concentrated nose of plum, berry, vanilla, and earth and complex flavors of dark berries, vanilla, oak, tar, and peppery spice. Like the Ridge, this one shows a touch of heat on the finish, but nothing to get worked up about. An extremely strong effort.

7. Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2003 (Chile; $65.99/bottle)
This Chilean red offers an enticing if unusual nose of ripe berries, stewed bell peppers, and dark caramel. With a fleshy, full-body and an extremely velvety mouthfeel, the palate offers loads of pepper, black plum, and blackberry, all set against a rich, almost meaty (meatloafy) backdrop. Thick, concentrated, and delicious, with integrated tannins providing ample structure.

Tasting Notes (Feb. 21; 28): Catch-Up Version

I have some catching up to do with my tasting notes, so I'll forgo any pontificating and just get right to it. (My notes for last Monday's blind tasting I'll post separately, but Bill's post pretty much covered it anyway.)

Thursday, Feb. 21:
For this tasting, there was no pre-printed sheet with all the wines on it, so I decided to do the tasting completely without reference to the costs of the wines. Even now, I don't know exactly how much each bottle costs. I thought it would "level the playing field," so to speak.

1. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling 2005 (Germany)
A nose of green apple, motor oil, and wet gravel is mirrored in the flavors of sweet green apple, mineral, and Vaseline. Very interesting wine--not overly balanced (feels like the sweetness and acidity are singing different tunes rather than harmonizing), but still not bad for the price (ok, I do happen to remember that this wine is not too expensive--under $20, if memory serves).

2. Talley Vineyards Arroyo Grande Valley Chardonnay 2004
This is one of the few wines Stimmel's has poured that I just have to say I really hated. Tart and acidic with bitter and yet somehow perfumey flavors. It even tasted a bit oxidized, which makes me want to hear from Bill and Sarah what they think of the next bottle, just in case this one happened to be rotten apple in an otherwise good barrel. Stay tuned . . .

3. Domaine Couteau Yamhill County Pinot Noir 2003
This medium-bodied pinot features a nose of bright cherry, fresh earth, and anise, followed by flavors of raspberry, black cherry, herbal cough medicine, and licorice. The finish is all black pepper. Palpable acidity begs for an oily fish like grilled salmon or a nice seared duck breast.

4. San Martino Villa Cafaggio 2000
This Italian red is quite enjoyable. The nose of currant, oak, salt/blood, and a touch of horse blanket gives way to a nice palate of black currant, black olive, and earth. The finish reveals notes of licorice and mint.

5. Andeluna Reserve Malbec 2003
This very nice Malbec is expectantly chunky, just the way you'd expect a South American Malbec to be. The meaty nose reveals tantalizing aromas of toasty oak and milk chocolate, while the blackberry-based flavor is infused with spice, pepper, and mint, mint, mint (with some mint chocolate thrown in for good measure).

6. Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
This is the new world wine I've been looking for in these cold, snowy winter months. While it may lack the finesse of the Mondavi Reserve 2004 (but what doesn't?), this California Cab bursts with aromas of currant, plum, and vanilla for days. And the flavors are even better: sweet cassis, vanilla, oak, tobacco, and chocolaty spice all float effortlessly on fine, ripe tannins. Drink now, or cellar for a few years (5-7).

Thursday, Feb. 28:
These were the leap year vintages, and all I can say is that I am grateful to have been present at this tasting. This is up there with the all-time best tastings for featuring one wine after the next that makes you want to eat Ramen Noodles for a week so you can spend a few extra bucks on the bottle.

1. Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine is simply great. The nose offers richly layered notes of earth, cedar, crushed violets, and chocolate, with a host of additional secondary aromas too complex and integrated to pin down. Exquisitely smooth, this medium-full bodied Cabernet reveals a complex palate of cedar shavings, tobacco, graphite, cherry, and licorice. In short, I'd have pegged this wine for a great Bordeaux in a blind tasting. Don't wait to drink this one; it's ready to go. (Note: Wine Advocate says drink through 2025, so take my advice with a grain of salt.)

2. Ridge Monte Bello 1992 ($149.99/bottle)
This Bordeaux-style California blend is one of the best wines I've tried, hands down. And, unlike the Mondavi, which definitely needs to be drunk in the next year or two at the most, this wine--at 16 years old (and still featuring a dense, deep garnet color)--could stay in the bottle for another 5-10 years. But why wait, considering its surprisingly bright yet unmistakably mature cherry, dried currant, sweet spice, pencil shaving, and cigar box notes? One of the only bottles I've ever come across that I'd say is a value at $150.

3. Villa Cafaggio Cortaccio 2000 ($32.99/bottle)
This Italian red's nose of blackberry, wildflowers, blood/brine, and toast gives way to flavors of ripe raspberry, blackberry, black licorice, and a hint of leather. Overall a very nice wine.

4. Richard Perry Syrah 2000 ($29.99/bottle)
This is a big wine, from the deep purple (almost opaque) color to the incredibly ripe nose of black plum, toasty oak, vanilla, and milk chocolate (the overall aroma is not unlike the Boarding Pass Shiraz). But it's the taste that stands out: the thick, full body reveals flavors of plum and blackberry fruit buttressed by layers of pronounced pepper and spice, with a hint of tobacco. Not as complicated as the Ridge or the Mondavi, but delicious nonetheless.

5. Shirvington Shiraz 2004 ($69.99/bottle)
Another very good wine in this lineup. The nose of black and blue berries, damp forest floor, and spice gives way to a very extracted flavor of berries, pepper, black licorice, chocolate, and mint, with a long, luxurious finish.

6. Montes Alpha "M" 2004 ($85.99/bottle)
Classic South American full-bodied red, with a nose of blackberries, stewed meat, roasted bell pepper, and crushed mint. Flavors of blackberry, black tar, mint, stewed tomatoes and peppers glide along a super-smooth mouthfeel. Ripe tannins give plenty of structure to the ripe juciness of the fruit.

7. Pillitteri Estates Shiraz Icewine 2004 ($19.99/half bottle)
This was my first Shiraz-base icewine, and I have to admit I wasn't expecting much. But, with a deep, reddish caramel color and a nose of honey, caramel, baked apples, and pineapple, this one took me a bit by surprise. While this dessert wine is not as complex as the Toakaij's or the Sauternes' we've tried at Stimmel's, it is still very tasty--and worth trying for paradoxically sweet and sour cherry component (not to mention the maple syrup component). A phrase from my notes sums things up: "simple, but delicious."

The Blind Leading The Blind

The blog is my confessional. Monday night's wine tasting theme here at Stimmel's Market offered another chance to taste seven red wines blind, and be graded accordingly, and I was on the other side of the bar, for the first time, to give it a shot myself. I joked earlier in the day that this was my chance to be in the "dunk tank", and believe me, I was soaked by the end of the night. While I'd like to argue that the lever on the dunk tank was faulty, or offer some other vapid excuse for my failure, I was simply another victim of the dizzying world of wine.

I wound up only getting 3 out of 7 correct, and while I take solace from the fact that my answers (and final score) were identical to Lance's (whose palate I greatly respect), I was blinded by my own confidence. Rich, dark, brooding red with a blast of green bell pepper on the nose - must be the Argentinian Malbec, right? Try Bordeaux. Medium-bodied red with good acidity - has to be the Rioja. Nope, try California Cabernet. Chewy tannins and a touch of leather and medium-bodied - it's gotta be the Bordeaux. Wrong again, it's the Rioja. The lesson I learned is this: certain types of wines from certain wine growing areas of the world typically possess flavors and aromas that can be expected, but they are not unilateral. "Typicity" is merely a guideline when tasting many wines.

On the other hand, I did get a perfect score of 7 out of 7 on the beer side, so I've got that going for me.

Cheers!

Local Flavor

Ohio has been home to some of the best craft breweries over the years, and while dozens have met an untimely demise (a post for another time), many are currently alive and thriving. Great Lakes, Barrelhouse, Hoppin' Frog and Buckeye Brewing are great examples of the healthy local beer market here in Ohio, and are all breweries capable of producing world-class beer.

Wine is another story. While dozens of wineries dot the landscape throughout the state (most of which are located along the lake from Port Clinton all the way up to Ashtabula), serious wine is difficult, if not impossible, to find. Whether it be the soil, the climate, lack of expertise, lack of a captive market, or all of the above, the vast majority of wine produced, bottled, and sold here in the Buckeye state tends to be cloying and sweet. Vinifera grapes are tough to come by, so you're more likely to find Pink Catawba, Concord and Chambourcin than Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah.

So, I was more than a tad curious to hear about a winery in Sandusky (just about an hour from Bowling Green) that produces, bottles and sells only vinifera grapes, and not just any grapes - we're talking Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Semillon, and others. Well, I stopped by Hermes Vineyards ( http://www.hermesvineyards.com/) yesterday to give 'em a try. First of all, Hermes (also known as Sand Hill Winery) is on State Rt. 4, just a couple of miles north of the Ohio Turnpike. As I pulled into the parking lot in a driving rain, I was greeted by a silo and a small barn. Inside the barn is a charming and rustic, yet modern, tasting bar, complete with tables downstairs and more seating in the upstairs loft. Quite frankly, the place was unexpectedly beautiful, and it would be easy to spend a lazy afternoon tasting wines while glancing at the voluminous field of vines stretching away from the picture window.

I met Millicent, the winery manager, and she graciously poured me samples of all their available wines. All of the wines were from the 2006 vintage (a difficult one here in Ohio - especially with a wet and cold harvest), with the exception of a 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. I tried four whites (Semillon, Gewurztraminer, semi-sweet Sauvignon Blanc, semi-sweet Riesling) and ten reds (Grenache, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, 2005 and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and a Port). It was a mixed bag. As for the whites, the Semillon stood out to me as creamy, a tad spicy, and varietally correct (Millicent also let me know about a sold-out Viognier which was well received by wholesale and retail customers alike). The reds were all on the lighter side of the varietal (visually, most resembled Crystal Light in a wine glass), and some were tough to drink. Others stood out as interesting, if not downright unusual. The Grenache, Nebbiolo and Petit Verdot offered a little spice and/or earth, and the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (the only red to see some oak treatment) had a nicer, almost silky mouthfeel.

I give Hermes Vineyards high marks for ambition in all aspects of their business - from the wonderful tasting room inside the restored barn, to the friendly service, to the amazing variety of wines that they bottle and sell. While my opinion of serious red wines made in Ohio may not have changed much, Hermes is definitely on the right track, especially as their vines mature (they were just planted back in 2002). I am already looking forward to trying some of their barrel samples from 2007 (generally regarded as a much better vintage than 2006 in this area).

Cheers!