Tasting Notes (Jan. 3): Oi Oi Oi!

I was trying--unsuccessfully--to come up with an introduction to my tasting notes for last week's lineup of lip-smacking Aussies. Then Bill posted the link (below) to the Victoria Bitter ad. Problem solved. A symphony orchestra playing entirely with beer bottles? It's the perfect mix of high and low that exemplifies the paradox that is Australian wine (and, apparently, beer): refined but accessible, serious but fun, world-class but devoid of snobbism. What's not to love? On, then, to the notes:

1. Grant Burge Holy Trinity 2002 ($35.99/bottle)
This visually-appealing brick-red wine has a wonderful nose of blackberry, warm spice, and mineral-laden earth reminiscent of the red clay of southwest Missouri where I grew up. Bold flavors of raspberry soda, tart cherry, horehound, and leather complete the package.

2. Reilly's Barking Mad Shiraz 2004 ($17.99/bottle)
A typically inky-purple shiraz, this wine hits your nose with a riot of smashed black and blue berries sprinkled with cinnamon and nutmeg. The flavor reveals the same maelstrom of fruit, quickly followed by exotic spice and a pleasurable dark chocolate finish, with some alcohol present.

3. Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This shiraz is a deep, opaque purple with ruby edges and offers aromas of blueberry compote, toasty oak, violets, and something suggestive of meat juices. The flavor opens with a quick dash of salt, which immediately gives way to black plum and blackberry fruit overlayed with toasted exotic spices. Finishes with medium-grained tannins. Will drink well for another 3 -5 years.

4. Boarding Pass Shiraz 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
If you hate cutesy packaging, then close your eyes when you buy this wine, whose label resembles an actual airline "boarding pass." But do buy it. With a beautiful nose of cherry, plum, toasty oak, clove, and cinnamon, this wine smells like a Christmas kitchen--there's even a bit of milk chocolate in the aroma. It offers equally enticing flavors of rich blackberry liqueur, black pepper, clove, and chocolate. The long, juicy berry finish reveals traces of black pepper after 30-40 seconds. Firm but integrated tannins provide ample structure. Maybe an unbeatable value, this one is up there with the Altos de Luzon.

5. Marquis Philips Shiraz "9" 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
What a sight this wine is in the glass: purple, dark, and deliciously thick. Dark berry, black pepper, spice, and oak aromas--tantalizing though they are--did not prepare me for the hugely extracted (and quite wonderful) flavors of dark blackberry and blueberry fruit, pungent black pepper, and menthol. The long finish suggests blueberry pie with mint-laced whipped cream. Firm tannins will keep this wine drinking beautifully for 3-5 or more years.

6. Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2000 ($74.99/bottle)
This wine has a definite "wow" factor on the nose, with incredibly complex aromas of dried currant, raisin, black olive, and smoked meat. Even more extracted than the Marquis Philips, the Stonewell Shiraz may not be for everybody's tastes. But all the better if it is for yours, because this is a special wine, with intense flavors of superripe grape, raisin, black olive, brine, and animal blood. And, if you can believe it, the wine is still young, with a bold, tannic structure. I can only imagine what it will be in 7-10 years.

7. Royal Tokaji Wine Company Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos (Hungary; $39.99/500 ml bottle)
Golden honey-colored, this beautiful Tokaji offers a nose of baked pineapple, butter toffee, and candied lemons. What makes it beautiful, though, is the balance: with ultra-tart citrus on one end and sweet pineapple and canned peach syrup on the other, the wine is poised in perfect tension. It is very sweet, to be sure, but the crisp acidity makes it seem ethereally light. Not to be missed.