Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Baker's Dozen

I was originally going to post a list of my 5 favorite wines that were poured here at Stimmel's in 2007 (pared from about 600), but it became increasingly difficult to pick and choose. So, I decided to post my "lucky seven", then it became my "top ten", "top twelve", and now I've finally gone with the "baker's dozen", an ode to the OTHER part of Stimmel's Market that generates buzz, our scratch-baked donuts, pastries, cookies, etc.

All 13 bottles of wine are red (I'll post a top white wine/dessert wine list soon), and range in price from about $16 all the way up to $125. Keep in mind that there are several, if not dozens, of excellent wines that fell just short of making the list, and the wines on the list are reflective of a combination of my personal palate, as well as the general reaction of customers who enjoyed them at the tastings. Here they are, with some of my notes:

13. Chateau Fontenil 2003 (France Bordeaux, $39.99) - From the hot '03 vintage, this Bordeaux was showing quite well when poured back in February. Complex, with notes of ripe fruit and chocolate, yet tannic with a touch of vanilla from the oak in the finish. Delicious, and a wine that will age gracefully for years.

12. Sea Smoke Southing 2005 (California Pinot Noir, $54.99) - Easily one of the two best Pinots that I tasted this year, it was a wine that was full-bodied, somewhat tannic, with fresh berry flavors and a touch of spice. Just an absolute pleasure to drink.

11. Shirvington Shiraz 2004 (Australia, $69.99) - Sure, I've tasted several big, ripe, Aussie fruit bombs in the last year, some of which were real head-turners (like anything from Mollydooker), but this Shirvington made a real impression on me when I poured it way back in January. Lots of fruit as expected, but an amazing silky, velvety mouthfeel and a finish that went on forever.

10. Altos de Luzon 2004 (Spain Jumilla Blend, $16.99) - This might not be in the same league as the other reds on this list, but the fact that it's an amazing value (and my pick for best red wine under $20) gives this Spanish gem an invite. Ripe fruit with a touch of acidity and a wonderful mouthfeel make this an all-time QPR - and kudos to Lance for discovering it.

9. Orin Swift The Prisoner 2005 (California Blend, $36.99) - Zinfandel is the lead grape in this blend, and the fruit is there, but what made this wine so great to me was the balance and the smoothness. It's more than just a pretty face, and along with The Impostor from JC Cellars, re-defined what I thought a California Zinfandel blend could be.

8. Clos Mogador 1998 (Spain Priorat, $59.99) - The first of two great Priorat wines on the list, we actually poured this wine three times in 2007; twice on Thursday nights, and at the Monday night cheese tasting in September. I actually tasted this wine for the first time over a year ago, and it was really my first foray into the wonderful world of Priorat, which became my favorite up-and-coming wine region this past year. The Mogador is powerful, yet nuanced, rich and fruit-driven, yet earthy and mineral-laden. A terrific wine.

7. Red Car Shake Rattle and Roll 2005 (California Syrah, $59.99) - In a year in which I fell in love with Syrah all over the world, the Red Car was the best from California. It's everything that I love about new-world wine: rich, plush, complex, drinkable now but able to cellar for a few years or more. This is a big wine.

6. Etude Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (California, $85.99) - I'd read some great wine press about this Cab before finally getting around to pouring it in March. I wasn't the least bit disappointed, and it was one of those rare times for me when the bottle of wine lived up to the hype. Incredibly silky, yet lively and spicy, it was the best California Cab I tried in 2007.

5. Miner Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 (California, $65.99) - This was my favorite Pinot of the year (just edging the Sea Smoke). Too easy to like, it was unbelievably smooth, velvety and creamy, with just the right amount of dark berry fruit and a touch of earthiness.

4. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2001 (France, Rhone $74.99) - A slightly oxidized version of this wine is still quite good, as we found out at the Syrah tasting back in August. The first bottle we opened had an issue with the cork, and despite Sara's warning, I foolishly poured it anyway. I thought the fruit was generally missing, but it otherwise was still well-structured and enjoyable. Well, when I finally decided to pop the second bottle and try it, I was blown away by the difference. The "good" bottle was unreal in its complexity, and the bright fruit flavors made this a serious candidate for the top spot.

3. Fratelli Revello Barolo 2001 (Italy, $69.99) - I first poured this at a tasting back in late 2006, and had I compiled a "best of '06" list, it might have won. Well, I also poured it again early in '07, and it's still in the mix . The best Italian wine (and I've been fortunate to try many) I've had this year, the fruit sings and the texture takes "silky" to a whole new dimension.

2. Mas Igneus 2001 (Spain Priorat, $74.99) - Spain is such an exciting place these days for wine lovers, and there are so many growing areas in different parts of the country that are enjoying massive upgrades in overall quality. I easily could have included a couple of different wines from Ribera del Duero, Rioja or Toro on the list (as it is, I've got 3 Spanish wines already), but I can't deny my affinity for great Priorat efforts like this one. A stunning wine, nary a day has gone by the last 10 months without me thinking of the Mas Igneus. Simply a masterpiece.

1. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1998 (France Rhone, $125.99) - The '98 La Chapelle fueled more strong reactions than any other wine that we poured in '07. Several people claimed it was "the best wine that they ever had". Some likened it to "dishwater"; ah, the fervor, the passion. While I certainly enjoyed wines that were more of a hedonistic pleasure, and other wines that showed better fruit, more earth, and better balance, no wine taxed my brain like this one did. Too many aromas and flavors to identify, it was both playful and beguiling, and triggered my year-long obsession with Rhone's great wines.

2 comments:

Lance said...

This is a great list, Bill. I especially agree that both pinots were knockouts, and while I didn't get a chance to try The Prisoner, I thought The Impostor was as good as you imply it is (if only by comparison).

Still, no Numanthia Termes to keep the Spanish theme going?

The Grim Taster said...

Lance, you're right about the Termes, and that was one of the wines that (for me) was on the bubble. It could've easily made the list, but I think we need to drink a few more bottles (hey, '03 - '05 vertical...) to make sure. Good to see that you're back from Mizzou.