Tasting Notes (Jan 29): Italy

1. La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005
Subtle, with a light-medium body and flavors and aromas of cherry, cola, and tar. Finishes with a nice, if faint, smokiness. Refreshing and crisply acidic--think pizza. Rating: 86

2. Ambra Carmignano 2004
Sweet plum, damp leaves, rose petals, and cocoa define the nose and palate on this medium-bodied, rich, earthy Tuscan red. Tart fruit, full acidity, and moderate tannins make this a food wine (a bit puckery on its own). Try with rich pastas and mushroom dishes. Rating: 88

3. Allegrini Valpollicella 2007
The nose on this red from Northwest Italy is very fruity and grapey, almost Beaujolais Nouveau-like. Thankfully, the palate shows more depth, with bright berry and currant notes and some balancing leather and earthy violet notes emerging on the back end. Rating: 87

4. Planeta Syrah 2005
Dark and spicy, with a fairly complex palate showing black plum, blackberry, graphite, and chocolate notes. More austere and structured than the 2004, with still-assertive tannins. Good personality and staying power. Cellar for 2-4 years and drink over the next six. Rating: 91

5. Casanova di Nori Brunello di Montalcino 2003
This rich, full-bodied Brunello has an almost irresistibly sensuous nose of mushroom, earth, and sweet sandalwood. Ripe black plum fruit and fine tannins provide a sturdy platform for complex and delicate earth, floral, spice, and leather secondary notes. The finish is very long and minty, bordering on eucalyptic. Cellar for 3-5 more years; drink over the next 15. Rating: 94

6. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001
Full-bodied with sharp acidity and bold tannins, with cherry, tobacco, and pencil lead notes barely peeking through a quite muted palate. This wine may be in a temporary "dumb phase," after which it will re-emerge as the beauty it (as a 2001 Barolo) is expected to be. No rating: try again in a year or two.

7. Gancia Mercato d'Asti (NV)
Super-fruity nose, bubble-gum like, with apple and gardenia flavors. Simple, sweet, and bubbly. Drink and forget (but enjoy nonetheless). 84