As much I've been into syrahs lately, I have to admit that cabernet sauvignon is still the one grape that, when it soars to the heights it's capable of, can mesmerize like no other wine, with simultaneous strength, balance, concentration, elegance, and sheer flavor. As (potentially) an "iron fist in a velvet glove," cabernet, when done well, deserves its reputation as the king of grapes.
Now, the notes:
1. Clos du Marquis 2002 (Bordeaux, France; $49.99/bottle)
Still somewhat young at seven years old, this medium-full-bodied Bordeaux (the "second" bottling of Chateau Leoville la Cases) is nevertheless drinking beautifully, with a spicy, earthy nose and gorgeous flavors of black currant, tar, leather, dried leaves, and a hint of wet stone. Balanced and very smooth. Excellent. Rating: 93
2. Cignale 2001 (Tuscany, Italy; $72.99/bottle)
Full-bodied, sweetly ripe, and incredibly sensuous, with almost primordially earthy flavors and aromas of black plum, mushrooms, animal hide, chocolate, and spice. Beautiful. Rating: 94
3. Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington; $34.99/bottle)
The first time I tried this wine (last week) I thought it was lackluster, but it was my first sample of the day, and I didn't go back. This time, with some warm-up samples under my belt, I saw this wine's charms: bright acidity and sweet, jammy plum and rhubarb fruit are laced with rich vanilla and lead to a lively, licorice-tinged finish. A bit one-note, but it's a good note. Rating: 91
4. Schweiger Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Napa; $49.99/bottle)
Full-bodied and very smooth, with black currant, black earth, spice, and tar notes. Ripe, well-integrated tannins and acidity from the cool Spring Mountain fruit lend a hard-to-resist elegance. Drinking beautifully now, but may not hit full stride for another 3-5 years. Rating: 93
5. Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Reserve 2004 (Colchagua, Chile; 16.99/bottle)
Very big, bold, and concentrated, this South American cabernet is not for the faint of heart. Full-bodied, with assertive flavors of blackberry, earthy leather, and (telltale Chilean) baked stuffed bell pepper. A bit rough around the edges, but overall not bad (and a decent value). Rating: 86
6. Vinum Africa 2006 (South Africa; $17.99/bottle)
With a nose of currant, plum, smoke, and pepper, this medium-full-bodied cabernet is super-smoky on the palate, with round but penetrating blackberry fruit and chewy, peppery tannins. Bold, classic South African wine. Think BBQ. Rating: 88
Monday, February 16, 2009
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Tasting Notes (Pick-a-Week Edition: Jan. 8)
I had promised to keep up with recent notes and fill in with backlogged ones as time permits. Well, time permits me to post last Thursday's Rhone notes, but I just realized I forgot to get pictures of the bottles, so I don't remember all the vitals--specific blends/bottlings, vintages, etc.
So as I track them down, here are some notes from the Jan. 8 Aussie tasting. I don't have numerical ratings for them, because I took the notes before I started assigning them. (And, by the way, this was an absolutely exceptional tasting. Not a bad wine in the bunch, and several outstanding ones.)
1. Evans and Tate Chardonnay 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
An interesting and appealing nose of fried apples, smoke, and flint gives way to a rich, creamy, mouthfilling body, with a flash of acidity and stony minerality to provide balance. The finish is long and vibrant. Very nice.
2. Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 1999 ($29.99/bottle)
Yes, it's an Aussie that calls itself syrah instead of shiraz, presumably an homage to shiraz's forerunners in the Rhone. This full-bodied red has a beautiful, complex nose of dark berries, coffee, pepper, leather, graphite, and tree bark, with an intense, peppery kick to the raspberry, leather, and tobacco notes on the palate. Firmly tannic and quite acidic, this wine needs at least 3-5 more years in the bottle. Let's hope the fruit holds out that long, because if it does, this will be breathtaking.
3. Tait Ballbuster 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
Rich, full-bodied, and easy-drinking, with raspberry, blueberry and cola notes, and lots of nice, spicy tar on the back end. This wine nods toward complexity, but it doesn't demand that you think about it--only that you enjoy it. Great value.
4. Kalleske Greenock Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
Rich, ripe, and very smooth, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, raspberry, spice, and tar. Not overly complex, but seamlessly executed, with a very welcome touch of elegance you don't normally find in "big" Aussie shirazes.
5. Massena The 11th Hour Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose on this one is so complex--each time I went back, I got something new--it seems almost a shame to drink it. Until you taste it, that is. Thick, almost chewy, this is nevertheless not your standard fruit bomb, with nice balance and well-integrated flavors of black currant, tar, pepper, and leather and a very long, luxurious finish. Very, very good.
6. Glaetzer Amon-Ra 2005 (no price listed on sheet; high $70's, I think)
A big, big wine, with classic Aussie aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, spice, vanilla, and black olive. This shiraz could have been too rich for its own good, but for a brilliant streak of acidity that gives it a lovely, sprightly quality despite its overall heft. A stellar offering.
So as I track them down, here are some notes from the Jan. 8 Aussie tasting. I don't have numerical ratings for them, because I took the notes before I started assigning them. (And, by the way, this was an absolutely exceptional tasting. Not a bad wine in the bunch, and several outstanding ones.)
1. Evans and Tate Chardonnay 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
An interesting and appealing nose of fried apples, smoke, and flint gives way to a rich, creamy, mouthfilling body, with a flash of acidity and stony minerality to provide balance. The finish is long and vibrant. Very nice.
2. Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 1999 ($29.99/bottle)
Yes, it's an Aussie that calls itself syrah instead of shiraz, presumably an homage to shiraz's forerunners in the Rhone. This full-bodied red has a beautiful, complex nose of dark berries, coffee, pepper, leather, graphite, and tree bark, with an intense, peppery kick to the raspberry, leather, and tobacco notes on the palate. Firmly tannic and quite acidic, this wine needs at least 3-5 more years in the bottle. Let's hope the fruit holds out that long, because if it does, this will be breathtaking.
3. Tait Ballbuster 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
Rich, full-bodied, and easy-drinking, with raspberry, blueberry and cola notes, and lots of nice, spicy tar on the back end. This wine nods toward complexity, but it doesn't demand that you think about it--only that you enjoy it. Great value.
4. Kalleske Greenock Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
Rich, ripe, and very smooth, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, raspberry, spice, and tar. Not overly complex, but seamlessly executed, with a very welcome touch of elegance you don't normally find in "big" Aussie shirazes.
5. Massena The 11th Hour Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose on this one is so complex--each time I went back, I got something new--it seems almost a shame to drink it. Until you taste it, that is. Thick, almost chewy, this is nevertheless not your standard fruit bomb, with nice balance and well-integrated flavors of black currant, tar, pepper, and leather and a very long, luxurious finish. Very, very good.
6. Glaetzer Amon-Ra 2005 (no price listed on sheet; high $70's, I think)
A big, big wine, with classic Aussie aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, spice, vanilla, and black olive. This shiraz could have been too rich for its own good, but for a brilliant streak of acidity that gives it a lovely, sprightly quality despite its overall heft. A stellar offering.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Tasting Notes (Jan 29): Italy
1. La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005
Subtle, with a light-medium body and flavors and aromas of cherry, cola, and tar. Finishes with a nice, if faint, smokiness. Refreshing and crisply acidic--think pizza. Rating: 86
2. Ambra Carmignano 2004
Sweet plum, damp leaves, rose petals, and cocoa define the nose and palate on this medium-bodied, rich, earthy Tuscan red. Tart fruit, full acidity, and moderate tannins make this a food wine (a bit puckery on its own). Try with rich pastas and mushroom dishes. Rating: 88
3. Allegrini Valpollicella 2007
The nose on this red from Northwest Italy is very fruity and grapey, almost Beaujolais Nouveau-like. Thankfully, the palate shows more depth, with bright berry and currant notes and some balancing leather and earthy violet notes emerging on the back end. Rating: 87
4. Planeta Syrah 2005
Dark and spicy, with a fairly complex palate showing black plum, blackberry, graphite, and chocolate notes. More austere and structured than the 2004, with still-assertive tannins. Good personality and staying power. Cellar for 2-4 years and drink over the next six. Rating: 91
5. Casanova di Nori Brunello di Montalcino 2003
This rich, full-bodied Brunello has an almost irresistibly sensuous nose of mushroom, earth, and sweet sandalwood. Ripe black plum fruit and fine tannins provide a sturdy platform for complex and delicate earth, floral, spice, and leather secondary notes. The finish is very long and minty, bordering on eucalyptic. Cellar for 3-5 more years; drink over the next 15. Rating: 94
6. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001
Full-bodied with sharp acidity and bold tannins, with cherry, tobacco, and pencil lead notes barely peeking through a quite muted palate. This wine may be in a temporary "dumb phase," after which it will re-emerge as the beauty it (as a 2001 Barolo) is expected to be. No rating: try again in a year or two.
7. Gancia Mercato d'Asti (NV)
Super-fruity nose, bubble-gum like, with apple and gardenia flavors. Simple, sweet, and bubbly. Drink and forget (but enjoy nonetheless). 84
Subtle, with a light-medium body and flavors and aromas of cherry, cola, and tar. Finishes with a nice, if faint, smokiness. Refreshing and crisply acidic--think pizza. Rating: 86
2. Ambra Carmignano 2004
Sweet plum, damp leaves, rose petals, and cocoa define the nose and palate on this medium-bodied, rich, earthy Tuscan red. Tart fruit, full acidity, and moderate tannins make this a food wine (a bit puckery on its own). Try with rich pastas and mushroom dishes. Rating: 88
3. Allegrini Valpollicella 2007
The nose on this red from Northwest Italy is very fruity and grapey, almost Beaujolais Nouveau-like. Thankfully, the palate shows more depth, with bright berry and currant notes and some balancing leather and earthy violet notes emerging on the back end. Rating: 87
4. Planeta Syrah 2005
Dark and spicy, with a fairly complex palate showing black plum, blackberry, graphite, and chocolate notes. More austere and structured than the 2004, with still-assertive tannins. Good personality and staying power. Cellar for 2-4 years and drink over the next six. Rating: 91
5. Casanova di Nori Brunello di Montalcino 2003
This rich, full-bodied Brunello has an almost irresistibly sensuous nose of mushroom, earth, and sweet sandalwood. Ripe black plum fruit and fine tannins provide a sturdy platform for complex and delicate earth, floral, spice, and leather secondary notes. The finish is very long and minty, bordering on eucalyptic. Cellar for 3-5 more years; drink over the next 15. Rating: 94
6. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001
Full-bodied with sharp acidity and bold tannins, with cherry, tobacco, and pencil lead notes barely peeking through a quite muted palate. This wine may be in a temporary "dumb phase," after which it will re-emerge as the beauty it (as a 2001 Barolo) is expected to be. No rating: try again in a year or two.
7. Gancia Mercato d'Asti (NV)
Super-fruity nose, bubble-gum like, with apple and gardenia flavors. Simple, sweet, and bubbly. Drink and forget (but enjoy nonetheless). 84
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