Tasting Notes (July 17): Spanish Wines Are Good

More and more, I'm convinced that Spain is the way to go for value wines. Whether $10, $20, $30 or more, it's a good bet that whatever Spanish wine you're drinking will outperform its price point. That's not to say that Spain isn't also turning out mediocre and poor wines. Every wine-producing region in the world turns out lackluster wines. But Spain consistently produces some amazing surprises. Just look at Vina Alarba, Las Rocas, and Altos de Luzon, all of which provide exceptional quality at a very affordable price, and--in the slightly more expensive range--Bodega Numanthia, whose "Termes" can be a revelation at less than $40.

Not only that, but Spain also has the added distinction of producing, with equal aplomb, both "Old World" and "New World" styles of wines, where "Old World" denotes wines of finesse and subtlety, often with elegant but not overpowering fruit and distinctly earthy notes, and "New World" denotes more thick, juicy, fruit-forward wines with real oomph. (Think about the difference between a sauce based on a flavorful broth versus a sauce based on a heavily-reduced stock, and you'll have something of an idea: both are extremely satisfying, but they have very different textures and viscosities.)

So, if you're looking for a good value and are tired of the same old Aussie fruit bombs (Milton Park--I'm looking at you), you could do a lot worse than to take a vinous trip to Spain.

Now, the notes:

1. Adegas Morgadio Albarino 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This lightly creamy white has a nose of apples and what I can only describe as chicken searing in olive oil. Medium-bodied, it boasts flavors of apple, bitter herbs, and a crescendo of white pepper from the back end to the finish. Try pairing this pleasant wine with light, flaky fish or scallops.

2. Vinicola del Prioriat "Onix" 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
This wine is always hailed as a "best value," and when I tried it a year ago, I didn't see what the fuss was about. Now, with another year of bottle age, its firm tannins have softened a bit and the flavors have begun to blossom. Both the nose and the palate show rich, meaty blackberry, vanilla, and mineral notes. Full-bodied and smooth, though it could still use another year or two to fully come into its own.

3. Can Blau 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
A great value, this medium-full-bodied red has a rich nose of plums, violets, and baking spices. Dark, earthy flavors of spices, wet leaves, and smoked bologna are buoyed by vibrant acidity. Try this one with cured sausage.

4. San Vicente Rioja 2001 ($39.99/bottle)
This tempranillo-based wine has a fantastic, super-earthy nose of worn leather, wet soil, and graphite. Sweetly ripe, with a smooth, medium body and flavors of double-shot mocha, black cherry, and graphite. Still-gripping tannins and sprightly acidity will allow this wine to age gracefully for 3-5 or more years. Think beef stew with lots of mushrooms for a food pairing.

5. Mas Doix Salanques 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is sharp and tarry, with additional wildflower and raspberry cola notes. Lively acidity and cola notes on the palate put one in mind of Pinot Noir, but then a torrent of meaty and tarry flavors whisk you quickly back to Priorat.

6. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
This smooth, rich, medium-full-bodied garnacha (grenache) has a nose of crushed black and blue berries, vanilla, clove, and cinnamon and flavors of blueberry, vanilla, spice, and pepper notes. Reminds me of a slightly lighter-bodied Aussie Shiraz.

7. Lese Eres Vinyes Velles Priorat 2001 ($64.99/bottle)
The nose on this red offers bold wild berry, meat, and violet notes. On the palate it is brambly and spicy, with dark, tarry notes and black cherry and cranberry fruit. Finishes fresh and tart. Would be ideal for bolognese or other red meat sauce dishes.

Tasting Notes (July 10): Call Me Wopner

This theme-based tasting was called "Stimmel's Court," and, res ipsa loquitur, the wines speak for themselves:

1. "The Consultant" Chardonnay 2005 (California; <$20, I think)
Perhaps enrolled in the vitis protection program, this medium-bodied Chardonnay does not show up on the tasting sheet and seems intentionally secretive of its origins. (Even a Google search only turns up the name of the Chardonnay and an "importer"--of this California wine, no less--called Billington Wines.) What I do know is that it has aromas and flavors of apples, butter, smoke, and minerals, with a streak of bitter anise running through the finish. Not bad at all.

2. Shinas Estate "The Innocent" Viognier 2007 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
If you're not used to drinking Viognier, you might call this wine "stinky." I prefer to call it aromatic, with notes of cantaloupe, peaches, and musk on the nose. Medium-full-bodied, this oh-so-lightly sweet white shines with flavors of sweet peach and pear and a white pepper-laced finish. Lively acidity keeps the wine seeming fresh despite its viscosity. Really nice.

3. Shinas Estate "The Guilty" Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
Another nice wine from Shinas, this is pretty textbook Aussie Shiraz, with blueberry, pepper, spice, and tar aromas and flavors. The only departure is a hint of bramble as well, giving it a slightly wild, adventurous edge.

4. Shinas Estate "The Verdict" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
This full-bodied red has a lovely nose of black currants, earth, violets, and just a tiny hint of barnyard. On the palate, sweetly ripe black currant starts the show, only to give way to a disappointing greenish/woody note. After a couple sips, however, this off green wood taste morphed into a more pleasant hoisin-like quality (for me, anyway; who knows what it may do for you). An interesting wine, though the other Shinas Estate offerings in this lineup outshine it by a considerable margin.

5. Orin Swift "The Prisoner" 2005 (California/Napa Valley; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend is a perennial favorite at Stimmel's tastings, and with good reason. A tantalizing nose of blackberry, black plum, bramble, and pepper gives way to a gripping, full-bodied palate, offering flavors of sweet blackberry liquer, peppery spice, mocha, and red and black licorice. "The Prisoner" is big and rich but exquisitely balanced. I love this wine.

6. Ahnfeldt "Quid Pro Quo" Blend 2003 (California/Napa Valley; $69.99/bottle)
This full-bodied, Merlot-based, Bordeaux-style blend has a nice nose of plums, flowers, earth, and leathery spice. On the palate, it shows very nice flavors of black currant, spice, licorice, and a hint of mushroom-y earth. Gripping but fine tannins and good fruit mean this wine will age gracefully for at least another five years.

7. Chateau Les Justices Sauternes 2003 (France; $52.99/bottle)
This may not be the steel trap of a Sauternes that the 2001 Chateau D'Yquem is, but it has its charms nonetheless. Aromas and flavors of pineapple, lemon curd, and smoky jasmine vibrate on a taught string of acidity, with an intriguing menthol note emerging on the long finish.

Tasting Notes (July 3): Franc the Tanc

In the movie Old School, Frank "The Tank" Ricard is in the inner sanctum of cool, being one of the three people responsible for founding the fraternity of misfits whose antics drive the film's plot (and most of the gags). Nevertheless, Frank--who's lots of fun but lacks solidity of character (to say the least; that's like saying NW Ohio lacks mountains)--continually takes a back seat to the other two members of the inner sanctum: the staid, reliable Mitch and the boldly charismatic entrepreneur Beanie. But, by the end of the movie, Frank has been given a few chances to shine on his own. Sure, he may not always come through, shooting himself in the neck with a tranquilizer gun or setting himself on fire while dressed in a cougar suit. But every once in a while, he rises to the occasion, stunning critics with a heartfelt rhythmic ballet routine or mystically channeling his inner wonk to school James Carville in the finer points of U.S. biotech policy.

So it is with Cabernet Franc. Like Frank, Franc is also in an inner sanctum, being one of the three indispensable red grapes of Bordeaux. (We'll leave number four, Petit Verdot, for another post.) And, like Frank, Franc always takes a back seat to its two friends, the staid, reliable Merlot and the boldly charismatic Cabernet Sauvignon. After all, when's the last time you had a glass of Cab Franc (other than this tasting)? Compare that to the last Cab Sauv or Merlot you've had, and you'll likely get the point. And there's no doubt that Cab Franc, on its own, sometimes lacks solidity of character, perhaps showing flashes--or should I say streaks--of brilliance but not able to sustain a full, developed flavor arc, which is what makes it such a good blending wine. (That may also be what makes the grape insecure and prone to saying things like, "Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low"). But every once in awhile, it truly sings on its own, with supple fruit, deep, seductive earth and leather notes, and an intriguing floral quality that places it among the most irresistable wines you're likely to come across. And when that happens, there's only one term to describe drinking such a wine. Yep, you guessed it: old school.

Unfortunately, my notes got lost in a frenzy of mid-summer housecleaning. But I can tell you that, despite the fact that the big, rich, Cab Sauv-like Reverie was the clear crowd favorite (not to mention a big winner for Robert Parker), Daniele and I both were quite taken by the Steltzner Cab Franc. Subtle, with notes of leather and tobacco, it combines the best of old world flavors and aromas with new-world (but not overdone) ripeness. If you're feeling like dropping $30-40 on an elegant, sensuous bottle of wine, try the Steltzner Cab Franc. Or, if you want to spend just a bit more (if memory serves) on a ripe, rich, velvety wine, go with the crowd and try the Reverie. Either way, you'll come out a winner. (Specific vintage information is available on the tasting sheet; or just ask Sara if you see her.)