So, the first '05 reds from Bordeaux arrived today, albeit in limited quantities (the big order is supposed to come in June). We received some of the following:
Chateau Belgrave (classified 5th growth, 91 points Wine Spectator, $49.99)
Chateau La Garde (89 points Wine Spectator, $34.99)
Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande (87 points Wine Spectator, $24.99)
Chateay Pey La Tour (89 points Wine Spectator, $19.99)
All things considered, these are some good values (especially the Pey La Tour) for 2005, but they were all upstaged by an over-achiever from the Languedoc region that we also received today. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre, the 2005 Chateau de Serame is a full-bodied, rich, spicy delight that is an outstanding value (90 points Wine Spectator, $18.99). Pick up any of these wines soon, as I don't expect them to be on the shelves for long.
Cheers!
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
These Prices Are INSANE!
Growing up in Connecticut, there was a commercial for an appliance/electronics store in NYC that aired week after week for years; named Crazy Eddie's, the (in)famous tag line at the end of each spot was "At Crazy Eddie's, his prices are INSANE!". The guy in the commercial had veins popping out of his neck and his fists were pumped as he screamed that famous phrase, something that regrettably stuck with me throughout my childhood.
Well, today I thought of that spot again as I perused the full price list of our 2005 Bordeaux pre-sell for the first time. I had heard for months that the prices were going to be unprecedented, and it turns out they certainly are. 1st growths at $1,200 per bottle. 2nd growths around $400 - $600, and so on. Most, if not all, classified bottles are going to retail at two to three times what the 2004's did, and while the ratings are universally high (check James Suckling's glowing reviews at Wine Spectator), it's hard to justify paying those kinds of prices. Laying down a grand for a bottle of fermented grape juice isn't just insane, it's downright obscene.
So, Sara and I have targeted a number of wines that have received great scores, but are south of the $200 price point. In fact, we have a few coming that are around the $100 mark and are 95+ rated wines, a good value all things considered. The classified '05 order should hit the market sometime in June, and we'll post a list of exactly what we receive at that time. Until then, we have started to receive a handful of inexpensive, unclassified 2005 wines from Bordeaux, one of which (2005 Chateau La Rame, 85 points from Wine Spectator) retails for $15. That, fellow wine lovers, is definitely NOT insane.
Well, today I thought of that spot again as I perused the full price list of our 2005 Bordeaux pre-sell for the first time. I had heard for months that the prices were going to be unprecedented, and it turns out they certainly are. 1st growths at $1,200 per bottle. 2nd growths around $400 - $600, and so on. Most, if not all, classified bottles are going to retail at two to three times what the 2004's did, and while the ratings are universally high (check James Suckling's glowing reviews at Wine Spectator), it's hard to justify paying those kinds of prices. Laying down a grand for a bottle of fermented grape juice isn't just insane, it's downright obscene.
So, Sara and I have targeted a number of wines that have received great scores, but are south of the $200 price point. In fact, we have a few coming that are around the $100 mark and are 95+ rated wines, a good value all things considered. The classified '05 order should hit the market sometime in June, and we'll post a list of exactly what we receive at that time. Until then, we have started to receive a handful of inexpensive, unclassified 2005 wines from Bordeaux, one of which (2005 Chateau La Rame, 85 points from Wine Spectator) retails for $15. That, fellow wine lovers, is definitely NOT insane.
Monday, April 21, 2008
Revolver
Around this time last year, I heard of a restaurant in Findlay that had opened and was receiving terrific reviews - not just local praise mind you, but ringing endorsements from national publications such as Bon Appetit (or was it Food&Wine, I can't recall...) and The Wall Street Journal. Now, I don't pretend to be a restaurant critic, nor am I qualified to be one, but let's say my culinary experiences in Findlay over the years have been generally sub-par. Diamond River was a favorite for Beth and myself (before it closed and re-opened as one of the worst barbecue joints in the Northern Hemisphere), and I've had some nice meals at Japan West, but otherwise the food scene is rather spartan. As a matter of fact, a couple of my worst meals anywhere in the U.S. have been in Flag City, USA; a completely inedible pizza joint, the afore-mentioned barbecue from hell, and the single worst restaurant on earth (named after a Robert Redford train-wreck-of-a-film, and worthy of a whole different post someday).
Well, I'm happy to say after finally getting around to dining at Revolver that it is a rising tide I hope will lift all of the other boats (i.e. restaurants) in Findlay. As a matter of fact, it was one of the best all-around dining experiences I've encountered anywhere. The service was excellent, the food was terrific and creative (Beth and I both played it safe ordering salmon/wild rice with the S'mores dessert), and the wine list, while not necessarily expansive, was eclectic and impressive. We ordered a bottle of L'ecole #41 Semillon, a favorite value white wine for me (from Washington State) that paired up well with the salmon.
Chain restaurants seem to dominate the landscape in Northwest Ohio, so it's both rare and exciting to dine at a locally owned establishment that is populated with talent and creativity. For the last few years, that place, for me, had been Diva in Toledo - an absolutely wonderful eatery that was darn near perfect in my estimation. Sadly, they closed the doors for good last month, leading to a couple of weeks of what I would describe as "Black Swamp Depression". Revolver has now stepped in, and I can comfortably say it's the best restaurant in Northwest Ohio, and I'm already looking forward to my next visit.
Well, I'm happy to say after finally getting around to dining at Revolver that it is a rising tide I hope will lift all of the other boats (i.e. restaurants) in Findlay. As a matter of fact, it was one of the best all-around dining experiences I've encountered anywhere. The service was excellent, the food was terrific and creative (Beth and I both played it safe ordering salmon/wild rice with the S'mores dessert), and the wine list, while not necessarily expansive, was eclectic and impressive. We ordered a bottle of L'ecole #41 Semillon, a favorite value white wine for me (from Washington State) that paired up well with the salmon.
Chain restaurants seem to dominate the landscape in Northwest Ohio, so it's both rare and exciting to dine at a locally owned establishment that is populated with talent and creativity. For the last few years, that place, for me, had been Diva in Toledo - an absolutely wonderful eatery that was darn near perfect in my estimation. Sadly, they closed the doors for good last month, leading to a couple of weeks of what I would describe as "Black Swamp Depression". Revolver has now stepped in, and I can comfortably say it's the best restaurant in Northwest Ohio, and I'm already looking forward to my next visit.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Tasting Notes (April 10): Tour de France
I usually try to give my posts their own titles, but this week I couldn't think of anything that better represents my take on this week's wines than the title on the tasting sheet: Tour de France. These bottles come from all over France, with only the Loire valley being represented twice (one red, one white). And, while Bill and Sara could have tossed in a wine from, say, the Languedoc just to spread the wealth a little more, I like the fact that they opted for two wines from the Loire, which gets very short shrift in the American wine market (at least, a certain segment of it). There is, of course, something to be said for tasting several wines from the same region--a model Stimmel's frequently adopts--but every once in a while one just feels like playing the field. When that happens, you want a tasting like this one. C'est bon!
These notes are in the order in which they appear on the tasting sheet, though I tried the reds first.
1. Piper Heidsieck Brut NV (Champagne; $39.99/bottle)
This refreshing brut has a crisp nose of herbs and brioche, and the slight richness of the palate is nicely balanced by a bitter herb note. This bubbly would be great with just about anything deep fried, though I'm thinking oysters would be especially nice.
2. Weinbach Gewürtztraminer Cuvee Theo 2004 (Alsace; $54.99/bottle)
This is a nice, if surprising, Gewürtz. With aromas of sweet peach nectar and a touch of rubber, the nose offers the first hint that this wine is off-dry instead of bone dry, like most Alsatian whites. The lightly sweet palate of peach and apricot followed by spice and petrol is very smooth.
3. Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2002 (Burgundy; $99.99/bottle)
The nose on this light-bodied red offers enticing aromas of black cherry, mineral, and damp earth. The palate is bright and lively, with tangy fruit up front and earthy tannins on the back end. Finish is long and graced by just a touch of white pepper.
4. Olek-Mery Chinon 2004 (Loire; $26.99/bottle)
This was the first Chinon I've tasted. (I said the Loire gets short shrift, didn't I? I wasn't excluding myself from that phenomenon.) It was unlike anything I've tried before, which is exactly what one wants in a new wine experience, though time and more experience will render me better able to assess the quality of the wine. Black fruit, musk, and lots of dust define the nose, while the palate shows licorice, mint, and medicinal herb, finishing with dusty pepper. I don't think I'd just pour a glass to drink by itself, but my instincts say that nothing would go better with pepper steak (or any meat cooked with lots of green peppers).
5. Chateau Giscours 2004 (Bordeaux; $39.99/bottle)
This is trademark Bordeaux on the nose, showing sweet currant, earth, and barnyard. The medium-full-bodied palate covers more ground, offering tart blackberry, black currant, earth, and black licorice notes, with tobacco emerging on the finish. The plush mouthfeel helps to soften the tannins. Good now; will be a lot better in 3-5 years.
6. B. Levet Cote-Rotie 2003 (Rhone; $76.99/bottle)
The nose on this northern Rhone red reveals wild berries and crushed violets set against a superripe black olive note--very sensual. The flavor shows very dark fruits, strong dust, and pepper, with a finish of black olive brine. Full-bodied, with fine tannins.
7. Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux 2005 (Loire; $72.99/bottle)
Though this wine is sweet, the nose doesn't let you know, with a bready, herbal, Champagne-like character. These notes are also present on the palate, though they're laid over a lush bed of sweetness and a light minerality. While the flavors still need time to harmonize, the racy acidity and lush body will allow this Vouvray to stay in the bottle for 10, 20, or more years.
These notes are in the order in which they appear on the tasting sheet, though I tried the reds first.
1. Piper Heidsieck Brut NV (Champagne; $39.99/bottle)
This refreshing brut has a crisp nose of herbs and brioche, and the slight richness of the palate is nicely balanced by a bitter herb note. This bubbly would be great with just about anything deep fried, though I'm thinking oysters would be especially nice.
2. Weinbach Gewürtztraminer Cuvee Theo 2004 (Alsace; $54.99/bottle)
This is a nice, if surprising, Gewürtz. With aromas of sweet peach nectar and a touch of rubber, the nose offers the first hint that this wine is off-dry instead of bone dry, like most Alsatian whites. The lightly sweet palate of peach and apricot followed by spice and petrol is very smooth.
3. Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2002 (Burgundy; $99.99/bottle)
The nose on this light-bodied red offers enticing aromas of black cherry, mineral, and damp earth. The palate is bright and lively, with tangy fruit up front and earthy tannins on the back end. Finish is long and graced by just a touch of white pepper.
4. Olek-Mery Chinon 2004 (Loire; $26.99/bottle)
This was the first Chinon I've tasted. (I said the Loire gets short shrift, didn't I? I wasn't excluding myself from that phenomenon.) It was unlike anything I've tried before, which is exactly what one wants in a new wine experience, though time and more experience will render me better able to assess the quality of the wine. Black fruit, musk, and lots of dust define the nose, while the palate shows licorice, mint, and medicinal herb, finishing with dusty pepper. I don't think I'd just pour a glass to drink by itself, but my instincts say that nothing would go better with pepper steak (or any meat cooked with lots of green peppers).
5. Chateau Giscours 2004 (Bordeaux; $39.99/bottle)
This is trademark Bordeaux on the nose, showing sweet currant, earth, and barnyard. The medium-full-bodied palate covers more ground, offering tart blackberry, black currant, earth, and black licorice notes, with tobacco emerging on the finish. The plush mouthfeel helps to soften the tannins. Good now; will be a lot better in 3-5 years.
6. B. Levet Cote-Rotie 2003 (Rhone; $76.99/bottle)
The nose on this northern Rhone red reveals wild berries and crushed violets set against a superripe black olive note--very sensual. The flavor shows very dark fruits, strong dust, and pepper, with a finish of black olive brine. Full-bodied, with fine tannins.
7. Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux 2005 (Loire; $72.99/bottle)
Though this wine is sweet, the nose doesn't let you know, with a bready, herbal, Champagne-like character. These notes are also present on the palate, though they're laid over a lush bed of sweetness and a light minerality. While the flavors still need time to harmonize, the racy acidity and lush body will allow this Vouvray to stay in the bottle for 10, 20, or more years.
Friday, April 11, 2008
Tasting Notes (March 27): Put Another Shrimp on the Grill de Carbon
I'm back from NOLA and reasonably caught up with work, so it's time to post my notes from the "Spain and Australia" tasting.
Two things make this matchup interesting to me.
First, there's the fact that Spain, perhaps more than any other of the big four (France, Italy, Germany, and Spain), is where you're most likely to find ripe, lush, new-world-style wines alongside more traditional styles. In Rioja, for example, it's generally acknowledged that there are "traditional" and "modern" styles of the tempranillo-based wines produced there (both can be, and often are, delicious). And the wines of Priorat, as a class, are as big and dense as a ripe and well-structured Napa cab. So, from this perspective, the pairing of Spanish and Aussie wines makes perfect sense.
Second, it's hard not to think that Spain has caught up with and perhaps even overtaken Australia as the world's premier producer of great wines at affordable prices (Chile has to be in the running, too, but that's another post). Sure, Australia's got Layer Cake, Boarding Pass, and Milton Park. But Spain has Altos de Luzon, Las Rocas, and Mas Donis. And the way this tasting shakes out, the contest hasn't been settled. Sure, I just about flipped my lid for a couple of the Spanish wines, while I merely really enjoyed the Aussies (though the Mitolo is actually on par with the Spaniards). But a quick scan of the prices explains that difference. Sadly, more research on my part is obviously needed to sort out which country has the better quality-price-ratio wines.
Now, the notes:
1. Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero 2003 (Spain; $38.99/bottle)
The nose on this beautiful red is rich and spicy, with lots of blackberry and black currant and a healthy dose of toasty oak. On the palate it is medium-to-full bodied, with ripe berry, tobacco, earth, and pepper notes. There is plenty of structure to balance the plush fruit, suggesting a potential for 3-5+ additional years in the bottle. Very nice.
2. Les Eres Priorat 2001 (Spain; $64.99/bottle)
This big, tannic, full-bodied red smells like vanilla-spiked plums, dark berries, and damp earth. On the palate, sweet dark berries and vanilla are quickly followed by a blast of fresh cracked black pepper, with spearmint lingering on the finish. Very good now; in 5-7 years it will be a knockout.
3. Torre Muga Rioja 2003 (Spain; $92.99/bottle)
I was already giddy at this point in the tasting, so I just about passed out when I tried this ridiculously good Rioja. It's delicious, yes, but also complex and elegant. The nose of black plums, chocolate, and oak gives way on the palate to rich layers of dark fruit, tobacco, leather, and oak. Ultra-fine tannins are velvety smooth and gripping at the same time. There is still aging potential here (5+ yrs), but why wait?
4. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2006 (Australia; $16.99/bottle)
On this night, this shiraz had an intriguing nose of blackberries, oak, and Worcestershire sauce. What's more, the Worcestershire sauce was present on the thick, full-bodied palate as well, along with ripe black and blue berries and a dash of salt and pepper. You may not find this description appealing, but the flavors actually harmonized quite well. A wine to think about as well as drink, and a good value at <$20. 5. Fetish Playmates 2005 (Australia; $23.99/bottle) This blend smells like R Wines' well-known Boarding Pass Shiraz, with aromas of blackberry, clove, spice, and violets. Rich and juicy on the palate, with big flavors of blueberry jam and peppery spice. Not overly complex, but very tasty.
6. Mitolo G.A.M. 2005 (Australia; $49.99/bottle)
With blackberry, light oak, and a faint hint of green olive on the nose, this red blend is a rare breed: while it is expectedly ripe, rich, and full-bodied, a strong wave of pepper along with a backbone of lightly drying tannins serve as counterpoints to the lush fruit, resulting in a more elegant (and seemingly lighter) wine than most mid-range Aussie reds. A real winner.
7. Tokaj Kereskedohaz Tokaji Aszu Eszencia
Because, as odd-wine out, this Hungarian dessert wine wasn't listed on the official Stimmel's tasting sheet, I don't have the date or price for it, but I'm pretty sure I have the winery and the wine right. There was some confusion about whether this was an Eszencia or an Aszu-Eszencia, since the bottle uses both terms. But, given the wine's alcohol content (at or above 10%, if memory serves), I have to think it's regular 5 or 6 puttonyos Tokaji with the rare nectar Eszencia added, rather than the pure nectar itself, which has so much sugar that it often doesn't get above 5% alcohol. It's got a nose of golden raisins and honey, with mesmerizing flavors of date, fig, honey, and a little bit of smoke. Nice acidity works hard to balance the sweetness and does a pretty good job of it. The finish is pure wild, raw honey, though after a couple of minutes it takes on a tobacco-like quality. I love tokajis, and I love this tokaji.
Two things make this matchup interesting to me.
First, there's the fact that Spain, perhaps more than any other of the big four (France, Italy, Germany, and Spain), is where you're most likely to find ripe, lush, new-world-style wines alongside more traditional styles. In Rioja, for example, it's generally acknowledged that there are "traditional" and "modern" styles of the tempranillo-based wines produced there (both can be, and often are, delicious). And the wines of Priorat, as a class, are as big and dense as a ripe and well-structured Napa cab. So, from this perspective, the pairing of Spanish and Aussie wines makes perfect sense.
Second, it's hard not to think that Spain has caught up with and perhaps even overtaken Australia as the world's premier producer of great wines at affordable prices (Chile has to be in the running, too, but that's another post). Sure, Australia's got Layer Cake, Boarding Pass, and Milton Park. But Spain has Altos de Luzon, Las Rocas, and Mas Donis. And the way this tasting shakes out, the contest hasn't been settled. Sure, I just about flipped my lid for a couple of the Spanish wines, while I merely really enjoyed the Aussies (though the Mitolo is actually on par with the Spaniards). But a quick scan of the prices explains that difference. Sadly, more research on my part is obviously needed to sort out which country has the better quality-price-ratio wines.
Now, the notes:
1. Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero 2003 (Spain; $38.99/bottle)
The nose on this beautiful red is rich and spicy, with lots of blackberry and black currant and a healthy dose of toasty oak. On the palate it is medium-to-full bodied, with ripe berry, tobacco, earth, and pepper notes. There is plenty of structure to balance the plush fruit, suggesting a potential for 3-5+ additional years in the bottle. Very nice.
2. Les Eres Priorat 2001 (Spain; $64.99/bottle)
This big, tannic, full-bodied red smells like vanilla-spiked plums, dark berries, and damp earth. On the palate, sweet dark berries and vanilla are quickly followed by a blast of fresh cracked black pepper, with spearmint lingering on the finish. Very good now; in 5-7 years it will be a knockout.
3. Torre Muga Rioja 2003 (Spain; $92.99/bottle)
I was already giddy at this point in the tasting, so I just about passed out when I tried this ridiculously good Rioja. It's delicious, yes, but also complex and elegant. The nose of black plums, chocolate, and oak gives way on the palate to rich layers of dark fruit, tobacco, leather, and oak. Ultra-fine tannins are velvety smooth and gripping at the same time. There is still aging potential here (5+ yrs), but why wait?
4. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2006 (Australia; $16.99/bottle)
On this night, this shiraz had an intriguing nose of blackberries, oak, and Worcestershire sauce. What's more, the Worcestershire sauce was present on the thick, full-bodied palate as well, along with ripe black and blue berries and a dash of salt and pepper. You may not find this description appealing, but the flavors actually harmonized quite well. A wine to think about as well as drink, and a good value at <$20. 5. Fetish Playmates 2005 (Australia; $23.99/bottle) This blend smells like R Wines' well-known Boarding Pass Shiraz, with aromas of blackberry, clove, spice, and violets. Rich and juicy on the palate, with big flavors of blueberry jam and peppery spice. Not overly complex, but very tasty.
6. Mitolo G.A.M. 2005 (Australia; $49.99/bottle)
With blackberry, light oak, and a faint hint of green olive on the nose, this red blend is a rare breed: while it is expectedly ripe, rich, and full-bodied, a strong wave of pepper along with a backbone of lightly drying tannins serve as counterpoints to the lush fruit, resulting in a more elegant (and seemingly lighter) wine than most mid-range Aussie reds. A real winner.
7. Tokaj Kereskedohaz Tokaji Aszu Eszencia
Because, as odd-wine out, this Hungarian dessert wine wasn't listed on the official Stimmel's tasting sheet, I don't have the date or price for it, but I'm pretty sure I have the winery and the wine right. There was some confusion about whether this was an Eszencia or an Aszu-Eszencia, since the bottle uses both terms. But, given the wine's alcohol content (at or above 10%, if memory serves), I have to think it's regular 5 or 6 puttonyos Tokaji with the rare nectar Eszencia added, rather than the pure nectar itself, which has so much sugar that it often doesn't get above 5% alcohol. It's got a nose of golden raisins and honey, with mesmerizing flavors of date, fig, honey, and a little bit of smoke. Nice acidity works hard to balance the sweetness and does a pretty good job of it. The finish is pure wild, raw honey, though after a couple of minutes it takes on a tobacco-like quality. I love tokajis, and I love this tokaji.
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