Tasting Notes (Jan. 31): South American Tour

Inveterate oenophile that I am, I often sneak back to the Stimmel's tasting area on Thursday afternoons just to get a peek at that night's wines. Last Thursday was no exception, and as I scanned the lineup, I was shocked to see in the "South American Tour" not only such standbys as malbec and carménère but also the varietals chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah. Props go to Bill for exercising a little creativity when, as he put it, most people were probably expecting a lineup of "bell pepper bombs." I love many of the pepper bombs, of course, but this tasting was something of a revelation: South America can produce great wines in whole a range of styles, from rustic and meaty to elegant and silky. Here are some of them:

1. Luca Chardonnay 2006 (Argentina; $33.99/bottle)
This sleekly-styled chardonnay boasts aromas and flavors of very ripe pear, kiwi, oak, and smoke. Crisply acidic rather than round and buttery, there's still enough depth, richness, and mouthfilling body to make it recognizable as a new-world chardonnay. The long finish leaves your mouth tingling, and wanting more.

2. Luca Pinot Noir 2005 (Argentina; $34.99/bottle)
This pinot's creamy nose of bright cherry, wet soil, and smoke foreshadow flavors of ripe black and sour cherries, earth, and smoky spice. The vibrant acidity doesn't dominate but instead provides lift, suggesting a versatile food wine--pair with anything from roasted chicken or duck to filet mignon.

3. Tikal Patriota 2005 (Argentina; $25.99/bottle)
Aromas of juicy plum and other dark fruits, toast, and sweet spice are followed by flavors of wild berries, black pepper, spice, and a slight hint of green wood. A typically meaty-textured malbec-based blend, this wine finishes with tart, fine tannins.

4. Susana Balbo Malbec 2005 (Argentina; $27.99)
This tasty wine is a study in contrasts. Juicy and ripe up front, with a nose of dark berries, bramble, cinnamon, and a faint earthiness and flavors of black plum, black licorice, and peppery spice, it nevertheless finishes with bone-dry tannins.

5. Montes Purple Angel 2004 (Chile; $55.99/bottle)
The first thing you notice with this carménère is its dark purple color, followed by a big, bold, assertive nose of fresh and roasted green bell pepper, crushed berries, cigarette tobacco, and grilled meat. The flavor follows suit with very ripe, sweet black and blue berries, green pepper, and tobacco, all riding on a full-bodied, moderately tannic structure. The long finish is sweet, ripe, and rich.

6. Montes Folly 2003 (Chile; $79.99/bottle)
This syrah's nose of cherry, sweet spice, vanilla, and oak is very well-integrated and rich. On the palate, it begins with bright cherry, sliding into earthy blackberry and then vanilla and sweet spice. The long finish suggests black licorice. This is a great candidate for drinking all by itself.

7. Tardio 2006 (Argentina; $12.99/500 ml bottle)
This dessert wine has an intriguing nose, boasting a mix of candied pineapple and bent plastic (think of the petroleum-like smell you get when you put a crease in a plastic picnic/party cup). The taste, likewise, offers scrumptious sweet pineapple, smoke, and petroleum. Decent acidity keeps the sweetness from being too cloying, especially considering the low price. A good value.