I haven't been to a tasting in two weeks, but I suppose that's a good thing: no more of my notes have been piling up as my semester has spun wildly out of control in terms of workload. (In case you don't know and do care, for my day job I'm a professor, and this year I've had to jump over the many, high, work-multiplying hurdles that constitute the "third year review" for professors who--you guessed it--are in their third year). That's mostly over, I'm happy to say, and so, despite having many other irons in the proverbial fire, I should be able to find time to start catching up on my tasting notes.
And, for those of you who may have allowed yourselves to imagine that it is mere laziness on my part that has kept me from posting, you must also know that--my ego being what it is--I would never allow something as petty as being inhumanly busy keep me from bragging to the world that I nailed the last blind tasting, with a perfect 7 of 7 correct. But even that post is going to have to wait. It's not that I have any great reverence for putting my notes up in the order I took them, though that's been my M.O. It's just that, tonight, I'm at home, and the only set of tasting notes I have handy are the following ones.
But one last, quick word before I get to the notes. If you read this blog even remotely regularly, then you know two things about my notes. First, you know that, as a rule, I look for positive things to say about the wines I review. Second, you know that, on a rare occasion, saying something positive about a wine, or even offering an indifferent report of its qualities, is not possible. Why do I bring this up? Because this lineup was one of those amazing ones where every wine was at least good, with a few being real knockouts. I wouldn't want you to think my excessive praise of tonight's wines was feigned. It isn't. They're that good.
And now, the notes:
1. Zind Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim Heimbourg 2006 ($42.99/bottle)
The snappy acidity and taut minerality of this medium-bodied riesling hold fresh flavors of fuji apple and key lime in wonderfully poised, delicate suspension. The incredibly long, stony finish tastes like rain on limestone. Try this with boiled German-style sausages.
2. Hitchin Post "Highlighner" Pinot Noir 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Good acidity bouoys the rich, dark notes of black cherry, earth, and black licorice that define the palate. Medium-bodied and beautifully silky, with a finish that hints at medicinal herb. Very good.
3. Olek-Mery Chinon Cuvee des Tireaux 2004 ($26.99/bottle)
This medium- to full-bodied, cab franc-based red from France's Loire Valley boasts flavors and aromas of cherry and dark berry, roasted poblano peppers, and a veritable cloud of dust. This is a mood wine--something to break out if you're feeling austere and Old World. Or if you're having roast pork tacos.
4. Novelty Hill Merlot Columbia Valley 2004 ($23.99/bottle)
This is a really nice merlot. Chocolatey, spicey, and even a bit leathery, it is rich and mouthfilling. The long finish is all blueberry until, at about 45 seconds, the mineral notes begin to come out.
5. Paraiso Syrah "Wedding Hill" 2001 (47.99/bottle)
With aromas of dark berries, smoke, leather, and animal, and full-bodied flavors of sweet berry fruit, pepper, leather, and grilled meat, this syrah is every bit as rugged and masculine as its French counterpart, Hermitage. For a food pairing, think spit-roasted boar. Or, if you're a normal human, grilled steak. A great wine.
6. Rosenblum Zinfandel "Snows Lake Vineyard" 2005 ($37.99/bottle)
Rich, but not over the top, with ripe, rich aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, chocolate, spice, and bramble. Nicely balanced for a big zin.
7. Soos Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2002 ($34.99/bottle)
This cab is nice, spicy, and big, with a rich nose of currant, plum, choclate, and oak, and flavors of sweet currant, plum, spice, leather, and chocolate. Lush and tasty.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Tasting Notes (Oct. 2): By the Numbers
All the wines for this tasting have numbers in their names. I give it a "10."
The notes:
1.Vinos de Terrunos "Siete" 2007 (Spain; $11.99/bottle)
This wine can be described as tinto fino flavors on a pinot noir frame. Light- to medium-bodied, with bright, uplifting acidity, it offers flavors of black cherry and tar, with leather and menthol emerging on the finish. This would be nice with grilled or roasted salmon. Good value.
2. Four Graces Pinot Noir 2006 (Oregon; $29.99/bottle)
This tasty pinot noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley is light- to medium-bodied, with deep, earthy, smoky nuances providing welcome depth to the bright fruit and buoyant acidity.
3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (California; $21.99/bottle)
This full-bodied brute does indeed have a sophisticated side, with a complex array of vanilla, black pepper, toasted spice, and chocolate adding nuance to the rich black raspberry fruit. One of my favorite zins.
4. Clos de los Siete 2005 (Argentina; $17.99/bottle)
This wine looks almost black in the glass, and the sight foreshadows what's to come: blackberry, black plum, tar, earth, and leather flavors infuse this medium-to-full-bodied red. Well-integrated tannins provide structure and grip. This could stay in the bottle another 2-3 years, but it's drinking nicely now. A great value.
5. L'Ecole No. 41 Apogee 2003 (Washington; $45.99/bottle)
This velvety, full-bodied Bordeaux style blend from Washington's Walla Walla valley is suffused with deeply aromatic, enticing sweet currant, cherry, leather, oak, and cinnamon flavors and aromas. The finish has a wonderful eucalyptus (eucalyptic?) quality. Very nice.
6. Hollywood and Vine 2480 2004 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This beautiful, full-bodied cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley was the star of tonight's lineup. It is satiny smooth, with bold, fine tannins and big but elegant notes of blackberry, oak, leather, spicy pepper, and coffee. Drinking beautifully now, it will nevertheless continue to harmonize for 5-7 or more years.
7. Marquis Phillips 9 2004 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
Marquis Phillips is one of those producers, like "R" Wines, whose wines always seem to outperform their price point. And, since M.P.'s wines tend to be more expensive than "R" Wines,' that's saying something. The "9" doesn't disappoint, with beautifully balanced flavors and aromas of blackberry, damp black earth, wet stone, black olive, and peppery spice. As you might expect, this shiraz is superripe and very full-bodied.
The notes:
1.Vinos de Terrunos "Siete" 2007 (Spain; $11.99/bottle)
This wine can be described as tinto fino flavors on a pinot noir frame. Light- to medium-bodied, with bright, uplifting acidity, it offers flavors of black cherry and tar, with leather and menthol emerging on the finish. This would be nice with grilled or roasted salmon. Good value.
2. Four Graces Pinot Noir 2006 (Oregon; $29.99/bottle)
This tasty pinot noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley is light- to medium-bodied, with deep, earthy, smoky nuances providing welcome depth to the bright fruit and buoyant acidity.
3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (California; $21.99/bottle)
This full-bodied brute does indeed have a sophisticated side, with a complex array of vanilla, black pepper, toasted spice, and chocolate adding nuance to the rich black raspberry fruit. One of my favorite zins.
4. Clos de los Siete 2005 (Argentina; $17.99/bottle)
This wine looks almost black in the glass, and the sight foreshadows what's to come: blackberry, black plum, tar, earth, and leather flavors infuse this medium-to-full-bodied red. Well-integrated tannins provide structure and grip. This could stay in the bottle another 2-3 years, but it's drinking nicely now. A great value.
5. L'Ecole No. 41 Apogee 2003 (Washington; $45.99/bottle)
This velvety, full-bodied Bordeaux style blend from Washington's Walla Walla valley is suffused with deeply aromatic, enticing sweet currant, cherry, leather, oak, and cinnamon flavors and aromas. The finish has a wonderful eucalyptus (eucalyptic?) quality. Very nice.
6. Hollywood and Vine 2480 2004 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This beautiful, full-bodied cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley was the star of tonight's lineup. It is satiny smooth, with bold, fine tannins and big but elegant notes of blackberry, oak, leather, spicy pepper, and coffee. Drinking beautifully now, it will nevertheless continue to harmonize for 5-7 or more years.
7. Marquis Phillips 9 2004 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
Marquis Phillips is one of those producers, like "R" Wines, whose wines always seem to outperform their price point. And, since M.P.'s wines tend to be more expensive than "R" Wines,' that's saying something. The "9" doesn't disappoint, with beautifully balanced flavors and aromas of blackberry, damp black earth, wet stone, black olive, and peppery spice. As you might expect, this shiraz is superripe and very full-bodied.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Tasting Notes (Sept. 25): Italian Wines and Lurker Call-Out
You know how I feel about Italian wines. Enough said.
So, in lieu of a prefatory post, I'll just note that, not having access to any diagnostics (I am not this blog's owner, only a contributor), I have a hard time knowing who reads this blog. Beyond a few close friends who tell me from time to time that they caught a post, that is. So, if you're a "lurker" (as I am on several other blogs!), here's your chance--no, your charge: let me know you're here. It doesn't need to be anything profound. Even a simple "Hi!" would be fine with me. And if you just stumbled by here for the first time, we'd love to hear from you, too.
Now, the notes:
1. Torricino Greco di Tufo 2007 ($19.99/bottle)
This was my first wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape, and I liked it. Straw yellow, it reminds me of a cross between a crisp Chardonnay and a flinty Sauvignon Blanc. Light and zippy with acidity, it has clean citrus and tropical fruit notes, racy minerality, and a touch of nuttiness.
2. La Carraia Fobiano 1999 ($34.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautifully earthy, spicy nose, with tart, crisp black cherry, earth, and tobacco notes on the palate. It's not overly complex, but what's there is very good and would be even better with a rich, creamy cheese.
3. La Mozza Aragone 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
(Note: I did not read the Wine Advocate tasting notes, which also describe the wine as "brooding," until after I wrote my own. I almost never do.) This dark ruby red sangiovese-based blend has a dark, brooding nose of berries, violets, and (oddly) something like burnt sulfur. This same burnt note comes through on the palate, though the fruit, which is tart but ripe, shines. My notes are surprisingly consistent with Wine Advocate's, which note "scorched earth" instead of burnt sulfur. The only difference is that the WA critic (Galloni?) liked the scorchiness, and I didn't. I'd like to re-taste this one to see if my notes are consistent.
4. Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo 2003 ($42.99/bottle)
This is a beautiful Chianti. Medium-bodied and smooth as a just-waxed Ferrari, it boasts flavors of sweetly ripe black cherry, new leather, and spice, with a dark chocolate note emerging on the finish. Fine tannins and moderate acidity provide ample structure to hold the flavors up. This would be an extremely versatile food wine.
5. Villalta Amarone Classico "I Comunali" 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
So dark it's almost opaque, this Amarone nevertheless shows restraint on the palate, with full-bodied but not over-the-top flavors of plum, dark berries, white pepper, dust, and a slight meatiness. The long finish reveals a wonderful walnut note. Very nice, but will be even better in 3-5 years.
6. Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
Noting a deep brownish red, almost rusty color, I thought maybe this eight-year-old Brunello--a region whose best wines are legendary for their aging potential--could already be over the hill. But the aromas and flavors quickly set me straight. Ultra-smooth despite still-young tannins, it offers lively and well-harmonized berry, tar, oak, and violet flavors and aromas. This is one for the cellar, but in as few as 3-5 years it will be fantastic.
7. Giacomo Ascheri Barolo Podere di Sorano 2001 (59.99/bottle)
Neither the nose nor the palate gives up much, with some faint floral and oak notes, but the palate does have a richness and depth that suggests this one shouldn't be counted out just yet. It will only be after the vault of tannin finally opens (it's on a time-release, of course) that we'll know more. Try again in 3-5 years.
So, in lieu of a prefatory post, I'll just note that, not having access to any diagnostics (I am not this blog's owner, only a contributor), I have a hard time knowing who reads this blog. Beyond a few close friends who tell me from time to time that they caught a post, that is. So, if you're a "lurker" (as I am on several other blogs!), here's your chance--no, your charge: let me know you're here. It doesn't need to be anything profound. Even a simple "Hi!" would be fine with me. And if you just stumbled by here for the first time, we'd love to hear from you, too.
Now, the notes:
1. Torricino Greco di Tufo 2007 ($19.99/bottle)
This was my first wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape, and I liked it. Straw yellow, it reminds me of a cross between a crisp Chardonnay and a flinty Sauvignon Blanc. Light and zippy with acidity, it has clean citrus and tropical fruit notes, racy minerality, and a touch of nuttiness.
2. La Carraia Fobiano 1999 ($34.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautifully earthy, spicy nose, with tart, crisp black cherry, earth, and tobacco notes on the palate. It's not overly complex, but what's there is very good and would be even better with a rich, creamy cheese.
3. La Mozza Aragone 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
(Note: I did not read the Wine Advocate tasting notes, which also describe the wine as "brooding," until after I wrote my own. I almost never do.) This dark ruby red sangiovese-based blend has a dark, brooding nose of berries, violets, and (oddly) something like burnt sulfur. This same burnt note comes through on the palate, though the fruit, which is tart but ripe, shines. My notes are surprisingly consistent with Wine Advocate's, which note "scorched earth" instead of burnt sulfur. The only difference is that the WA critic (Galloni?) liked the scorchiness, and I didn't. I'd like to re-taste this one to see if my notes are consistent.
4. Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo 2003 ($42.99/bottle)
This is a beautiful Chianti. Medium-bodied and smooth as a just-waxed Ferrari, it boasts flavors of sweetly ripe black cherry, new leather, and spice, with a dark chocolate note emerging on the finish. Fine tannins and moderate acidity provide ample structure to hold the flavors up. This would be an extremely versatile food wine.
5. Villalta Amarone Classico "I Comunali" 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
So dark it's almost opaque, this Amarone nevertheless shows restraint on the palate, with full-bodied but not over-the-top flavors of plum, dark berries, white pepper, dust, and a slight meatiness. The long finish reveals a wonderful walnut note. Very nice, but will be even better in 3-5 years.
6. Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
Noting a deep brownish red, almost rusty color, I thought maybe this eight-year-old Brunello--a region whose best wines are legendary for their aging potential--could already be over the hill. But the aromas and flavors quickly set me straight. Ultra-smooth despite still-young tannins, it offers lively and well-harmonized berry, tar, oak, and violet flavors and aromas. This is one for the cellar, but in as few as 3-5 years it will be fantastic.
7. Giacomo Ascheri Barolo Podere di Sorano 2001 (59.99/bottle)
Neither the nose nor the palate gives up much, with some faint floral and oak notes, but the palate does have a richness and depth that suggests this one shouldn't be counted out just yet. It will only be after the vault of tannin finally opens (it's on a time-release, of course) that we'll know more. Try again in 3-5 years.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Tasting Notes (Sept. 18): Que Syrah Syrah
Since I've gone to the more stripped down tasting notes for the time being (minus lengthy introductory comments), I've also decided to use the always clever Stimmel's titles to head my posts. (Where, before, I would come up with my own titles for entries.) This week's is one of my favorites.
The notes (as the title for the tasting reflects, all wines except the first one are composed entirely, or nearly entirely, of syrah):
1. Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005 (France/Southern Rhone; $89.99/bottle)
This incredibly sensual, medium-bodied blend of Roussanne and white Grenache is dense with aromas and flavors of lemon curd, almonds, and bitter essential oils and has a long, nutty, minerally finish. Try this with meaty fish, like swordfish.
2. E. Guigal St. Joseph 2003 (France/Northern Rhone; $26.99/bottle)
This St. Joseph has a big nose of blackberries, lavender scrub, and earthy barnyard notes. On the full side of medium-bodied, it boasts spicy, peppery, and mineral-tinged flavors, with the scrub from the nose re-emerging (and the pepper intensifying) on the finish. Though the fruit could be just a bit fuller, this is a nice way into a good Northern Rhone wine for comparatively little money.
3. Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley 2002 (Washington; $31.99/bottle)
This syrah from Washington is the very epitome of a "New World" wine: full-bodied, rich, and boldly-flavored, with ripe plum, baking spice, and vanilla aromas and flavors. Still, these notes are nicely integrated, giving the wine a sense of balance that keeps it from going over the top. Nice.
4. Finca Sandoval 2002 (Spain/Castilla-La Mancha; $36.99/bottle)
The nose on this syrah blend from Spain's Castilla-La Mancha region (think Don Quixote) tells you right away that you're in for a special treat, with waves of plum, smoke, licorice, and earth emanating from the glass. On the palate, it is full-bodied and smooth as worn flannel, with flavors of sweet plum, earth, and rich tobacco. The long, hedonistic finish finds the licorice from the nose re-emerging. A beautiful wine.
5. Red Car Shake Rattlle and Roll 2005 (California; $59.99/bottle)
Another gorgeous syrah--what a lineup! The Red Car is truly the best of both worlds--Old and New, that is. Rich and full-bodied, it boasts flavors of ripe cherries, plums, and chocolate, with Cote-Rotie-like nuances of smoke and cured meats. The finish is long and--considering the ripeness of the fruit--wonderfully vibrant. Outstanding.
6. Oliver Hill Jimmy Section Shiraz 2005 (Australia/McLaren Vale; $35.99/bottle)
I've been a fan of the Jimmy Section for a while now, and what's not to like? Aussie-big and fruity, the nose offers black and blue berries, oak, and baking spices, with the faintest hint of black olive (but not the overripe kind one often finds in high end Aussie Shirazes). Flavors of dark fruit, licorice, and pepper are assertive but nicely balanced, making this very full-bodied, massively structured shiraz a joy to drink now, though it will continue to evolve in the bottle for up to 10 more years. The only off note: despite the wine's massive proportions, the 15% + alcohol can create a little heat, especially if the wine isn't kept on the cooler side of room temperature.
The notes (as the title for the tasting reflects, all wines except the first one are composed entirely, or nearly entirely, of syrah):
1. Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005 (France/Southern Rhone; $89.99/bottle)
This incredibly sensual, medium-bodied blend of Roussanne and white Grenache is dense with aromas and flavors of lemon curd, almonds, and bitter essential oils and has a long, nutty, minerally finish. Try this with meaty fish, like swordfish.
2. E. Guigal St. Joseph 2003 (France/Northern Rhone; $26.99/bottle)
This St. Joseph has a big nose of blackberries, lavender scrub, and earthy barnyard notes. On the full side of medium-bodied, it boasts spicy, peppery, and mineral-tinged flavors, with the scrub from the nose re-emerging (and the pepper intensifying) on the finish. Though the fruit could be just a bit fuller, this is a nice way into a good Northern Rhone wine for comparatively little money.
3. Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley 2002 (Washington; $31.99/bottle)
This syrah from Washington is the very epitome of a "New World" wine: full-bodied, rich, and boldly-flavored, with ripe plum, baking spice, and vanilla aromas and flavors. Still, these notes are nicely integrated, giving the wine a sense of balance that keeps it from going over the top. Nice.
4. Finca Sandoval 2002 (Spain/Castilla-La Mancha; $36.99/bottle)
The nose on this syrah blend from Spain's Castilla-La Mancha region (think Don Quixote) tells you right away that you're in for a special treat, with waves of plum, smoke, licorice, and earth emanating from the glass. On the palate, it is full-bodied and smooth as worn flannel, with flavors of sweet plum, earth, and rich tobacco. The long, hedonistic finish finds the licorice from the nose re-emerging. A beautiful wine.
5. Red Car Shake Rattlle and Roll 2005 (California; $59.99/bottle)
Another gorgeous syrah--what a lineup! The Red Car is truly the best of both worlds--Old and New, that is. Rich and full-bodied, it boasts flavors of ripe cherries, plums, and chocolate, with Cote-Rotie-like nuances of smoke and cured meats. The finish is long and--considering the ripeness of the fruit--wonderfully vibrant. Outstanding.
6. Oliver Hill Jimmy Section Shiraz 2005 (Australia/McLaren Vale; $35.99/bottle)
I've been a fan of the Jimmy Section for a while now, and what's not to like? Aussie-big and fruity, the nose offers black and blue berries, oak, and baking spices, with the faintest hint of black olive (but not the overripe kind one often finds in high end Aussie Shirazes). Flavors of dark fruit, licorice, and pepper are assertive but nicely balanced, making this very full-bodied, massively structured shiraz a joy to drink now, though it will continue to evolve in the bottle for up to 10 more years. The only off note: despite the wine's massive proportions, the 15% + alcohol can create a little heat, especially if the wine isn't kept on the cooler side of room temperature.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Tasting Notes (Sept. 11): Around the World (Abridged Version)
While normally I try to include some kind of introductory comments to my tasting notes, there are times during my real job that compel me to streamline wherever I can, including the Stimmel's blog. So, for a few weeks anyway, I'm going with straight notes, free from introductory commentary. (My sense is that the notes are what people come for anyway--or, at least, that's my hope.)
1. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 (France/Bordeaux; $130.99/bottle)
This is one of those wines you're excited to drink even though you know it's a crime to do it a mere three years after the vintage. Still, this very nice Bordeaux has a beautiful nose of currant, dried cranberry, leather, earth, and a touch of gravel. Despite being a young, tannic beast, it still gives hints of what it will be in 8-10 years: a dark, rich, earthy, silky beauty of a wine. Definitely one for the cellar.
2. Mateic EQ Syrah 2005 (Chile; $29.99/bottle)
This syrah immediately puts one in mind of the wines of the northern Rhone (though at a fraction of the cost of most good ones): medium-bodied, with meaty, peppery, and dusty berry and mineral flavors, it simply screams for a nice roasted leg of lamb, or even beef kebabs.
3. Scala Dei Cartoixa 2001 (Spain; $59.99/bottle)
This one is an all-around beautiful wine. It starts with aromas blackberry, licorice, coffee, and a hint of fragrant toasted almond. Medium-full bodied, with a wonderfully satiny mouthfeel, with enticingly earthy and aromatic flavors of dark, spicy fruit, with a bolt of anise up front and a dash of new leather on the finish. Very good now (think steak), but should continue to harmonize for another 3-5 years.
4. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001 (Italy; $59.99/bottle)
The brownish tint gives this wine away as the consummate old-world red, with a very sensual nose of barnyard, crushed violet, and chocolate, and silky smooth, full bodied flavors of black plum, cedar, tobacco, and a hint of dusty cocoa. Nicely integrated tannins and surprisingly buoyant acidity will give this very nice wine another 2-4 years' cellaring potential, though if it were in my cellar right now, I'd pop it tomorrow with an equally indulgent plate of duck ragout with wild mushrooms.
5. Showket Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This Cab's very ripe, fruity nose is underscored by subtle earthy notes. Full bodied, with nice grip and flavors of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, bramble, and mint. This is a very nice wine.
6. Schild Barossa Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $28.99/bottle)
This is not your run-of-the-mill Aussie Shiraz, with an intensely musky nose and flavors of super-ripe blueberry, black olive, smoke, and musk. While it might not be my first choice for a day-in, day-out quaffer, I have to give it credit for taking a chance and actually being a sensual, even sense-challenging, wine. Definitely one to pop with grilled red meats.
7. Adelsheim Pinot Noir Deglace 2006 (Oregon; $34.99/bottle)
Dessert wines seem to be en vogue right now, so we shouldn't be surprised to see American producers trying them with grapes not normally associated with sweet wines (for another fun example, look for Meeker's Fro-Zin, a Zinfandel-based dessert wine). Such efforts tend to be hit or miss, but this one--while not earth-shattering--is quite nice, with aromas and flavors of baked cherries and enough acidity to keep the whole affair from being too heavy.
1. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 (France/Bordeaux; $130.99/bottle)
This is one of those wines you're excited to drink even though you know it's a crime to do it a mere three years after the vintage. Still, this very nice Bordeaux has a beautiful nose of currant, dried cranberry, leather, earth, and a touch of gravel. Despite being a young, tannic beast, it still gives hints of what it will be in 8-10 years: a dark, rich, earthy, silky beauty of a wine. Definitely one for the cellar.
2. Mateic EQ Syrah 2005 (Chile; $29.99/bottle)
This syrah immediately puts one in mind of the wines of the northern Rhone (though at a fraction of the cost of most good ones): medium-bodied, with meaty, peppery, and dusty berry and mineral flavors, it simply screams for a nice roasted leg of lamb, or even beef kebabs.
3. Scala Dei Cartoixa 2001 (Spain; $59.99/bottle)
This one is an all-around beautiful wine. It starts with aromas blackberry, licorice, coffee, and a hint of fragrant toasted almond. Medium-full bodied, with a wonderfully satiny mouthfeel, with enticingly earthy and aromatic flavors of dark, spicy fruit, with a bolt of anise up front and a dash of new leather on the finish. Very good now (think steak), but should continue to harmonize for another 3-5 years.
4. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001 (Italy; $59.99/bottle)
The brownish tint gives this wine away as the consummate old-world red, with a very sensual nose of barnyard, crushed violet, and chocolate, and silky smooth, full bodied flavors of black plum, cedar, tobacco, and a hint of dusty cocoa. Nicely integrated tannins and surprisingly buoyant acidity will give this very nice wine another 2-4 years' cellaring potential, though if it were in my cellar right now, I'd pop it tomorrow with an equally indulgent plate of duck ragout with wild mushrooms.
5. Showket Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This Cab's very ripe, fruity nose is underscored by subtle earthy notes. Full bodied, with nice grip and flavors of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, bramble, and mint. This is a very nice wine.
6. Schild Barossa Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $28.99/bottle)
This is not your run-of-the-mill Aussie Shiraz, with an intensely musky nose and flavors of super-ripe blueberry, black olive, smoke, and musk. While it might not be my first choice for a day-in, day-out quaffer, I have to give it credit for taking a chance and actually being a sensual, even sense-challenging, wine. Definitely one to pop with grilled red meats.
7. Adelsheim Pinot Noir Deglace 2006 (Oregon; $34.99/bottle)
Dessert wines seem to be en vogue right now, so we shouldn't be surprised to see American producers trying them with grapes not normally associated with sweet wines (for another fun example, look for Meeker's Fro-Zin, a Zinfandel-based dessert wine). Such efforts tend to be hit or miss, but this one--while not earth-shattering--is quite nice, with aromas and flavors of baked cherries and enough acidity to keep the whole affair from being too heavy.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Tasting Notes (Aug. 28): Semantics Edition
Tonight’s tasting theme was “decadence defined.” Now, it just so happens that "decadence" is one of those words I’ve been keeping my eye on. In the last 30 or so years (in other words, since I’ve been old enough to pay attention), there have been a few words whose meanings have changed right before our eyes. Take “literally,” for example. I have always been taught that it meant "actually." But, to a number of people—and it sure seems like that number has been steadily increasing, though I’ll concede that, as I’ve become a more astute observer of language, I may simply notice it more—“literally” is essentially a word that marks an extreme or intense state. So, for example, the statement, “I was so mad I literally hit the roof,” could be taken to mean that you really went on top of your house, made a fist (or perhaps you’re a martial arts, open-hand type), and smacked your shingles. But for most people it just means “I was extremely mad.”
And so it is with “decadence.” At some point during the Reagan ‘80’s (probably about the same point it seemed like a good idea to make the film Wall Street), the meaning of “decadence” shifted from “being in a state of decay, either caused by or symptomized by (or both) conspicuous and extreme excess” (think Roman vomiting troughs and orgiastic parties) to “extremely desirable—due to conspicuous and extreme excess.”
Obviously, it’s this second term that applies to tonight’s tasting. But I can’t help wondering what it says about our culture that conspicuous, extreme excess continues to be considered, almost thirty years after the Reagan era began, a sign of fine living rather than an indication that the whole idea of the rags-to-riches American Dream has jumped the shark.
As for this tasting, what saves it for me in the end is that, despite its title, the wines in the lineup really aren’t decadent so much as they are rich and full-bodied (Ok, the prices may be decadent, but that’s why we have small samples of these wines and then go buy a tasty $9.99 bottle of Chilean Cab Sauv.) The Standish Shiraz comes closest—Wine Advocate calls it “opulent”—though even it cannot touch the outrageously syrupy, oozing nectar that is Mollydooker’s “Carnival of Love.” Talk about decadent. (As I said when I reviewed it, you should try it if you have a chance, but it’s almost too much to take.) In fact, the next closest wine in the lineup to being decadent—the “Clio” from El Nido—is definitely ripe and rich, but it is also so superbly balanced and precisely focused that it does not seem excessive at all when you drink it.
I don’t mean to quibble with Bill about terms: a) it’s his store, and he runs the show, and b) I’m sure the actual name for the theme of the tasting is of exceedingly minor importance compared to the formidable task of assembling such a marvelous lineup of rich, full-bodied wines. Indeed, this post may seem like a lot of energy to devote to something as ho-hum as word choice for a wine tasting theme, and you might even be thinking by now (if you haven’t stopped reading altogether), “Who cares?” I do, for one. Before I was a half-cocked amateur wine critic I was, and am, a professor of rhetoric. It’s in my nature to pay attention to the sometimes extraordinary meanings that inhere in mundane language, as well as to share what I find with others. And, if you have made it this far into this post, then I have done what I set out to do: there’s no way, after today, that you’ll ever hear the word “decadent” again without giving it at least a second thought.
Now, the notes:
1. Merryvale Profile 2002 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine has a great nose, with cassis, baked cherry, leathery spice, and just the right amount of toasty oak. The full-bodied palate reveals young, dark flavors of black cherry, bitter leather, chocolate, and spice with big, scratchy tannins dominating the profile (no pun intended). This is a wine to come back to in 3-5 years to see if it has come into balance, because if it does, it's going to be a knockout.
2. Lagier Meredith Syrah 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
The nose on this mountain-grown Syrah is big and fruity, with ripe plums and berries supporting secondary notes of spice and creamy vanilla. Full-bodied, with wonderfully bright acidity, it offers flavors of dark berries and black pepper with an enticing eucalyptus note on the finish. The tannins are nicely integrated. Try this syrah with grilled meat.
3. Conn Valley Right Bank 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
"Right Bank" refers to the right bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux, where blends tend to be based on Merlot instead of Cabernet Sauvignon. And this wine is surprisingly Bordeaux-like, with earth and leather coming through on the nose and flavors of tart but ripe plum, tobacco, soil, and a hint of black licorice. Full-bodied with soft tannins, this is a beautiful wine that would pair perfectly with lamb or prime rib.
4. El Nido Clio 2005 ($59.99/bottle)
The nose on this very rich Monastrell blend from Jumilla, Spain makes you think it's going to be way over-the-top, even (dare I say?) decadent, with aromas of super-ripe crushed blueberries, vanilla, cream, and toasty spice. Nevertheless, the voluptuous but well-structured palate displays breathtaking balance, even finesse, with an almost refreshingly minty finish that makes you want another sip. You could drink this masterpiece of a wine with food, but why would you want to?
5. The Standish Shiraz 2003 ($79.99/bottle)
This Aussie Shiraz is big, thick and almost over-ripe. The nose offers pronounced aromas of caramelized sugar, smoke, and soft black olives, while the palate shows dark flavors of ripe blackberry, black olive, and a blast of black pepper. This wine is definitely indulgent, and it does a nice job as such, but it would be hard to justify buying a bottle when I know it's in the same price range as D'Arenberg's nearly perfect Dead Arm Shiraz and a number of other stunningly rich and balanced Aussie Shirazes.
6. Caldwell Red Wine 2004 ($104.99/bottle)
This nice, dark, full-bodied red shows flavors and aromas of very ripe, smoky plum, oak, and black olive, with some licorice on the finish.
7. Presidential NV 20-Year Port ($46.99/bottle)
Once you get past the formiddable alcohol (20%), there is a beautifully aromatic and tasty blend of caramel, vanilla, and orange/gran marnier waiting. A definite choice for those NW Ohio winters.
And so it is with “decadence.” At some point during the Reagan ‘80’s (probably about the same point it seemed like a good idea to make the film Wall Street), the meaning of “decadence” shifted from “being in a state of decay, either caused by or symptomized by (or both) conspicuous and extreme excess” (think Roman vomiting troughs and orgiastic parties) to “extremely desirable—due to conspicuous and extreme excess.”
Obviously, it’s this second term that applies to tonight’s tasting. But I can’t help wondering what it says about our culture that conspicuous, extreme excess continues to be considered, almost thirty years after the Reagan era began, a sign of fine living rather than an indication that the whole idea of the rags-to-riches American Dream has jumped the shark.
As for this tasting, what saves it for me in the end is that, despite its title, the wines in the lineup really aren’t decadent so much as they are rich and full-bodied (Ok, the prices may be decadent, but that’s why we have small samples of these wines and then go buy a tasty $9.99 bottle of Chilean Cab Sauv.) The Standish Shiraz comes closest—Wine Advocate calls it “opulent”—though even it cannot touch the outrageously syrupy, oozing nectar that is Mollydooker’s “Carnival of Love.” Talk about decadent. (As I said when I reviewed it, you should try it if you have a chance, but it’s almost too much to take.) In fact, the next closest wine in the lineup to being decadent—the “Clio” from El Nido—is definitely ripe and rich, but it is also so superbly balanced and precisely focused that it does not seem excessive at all when you drink it.
I don’t mean to quibble with Bill about terms: a) it’s his store, and he runs the show, and b) I’m sure the actual name for the theme of the tasting is of exceedingly minor importance compared to the formidable task of assembling such a marvelous lineup of rich, full-bodied wines. Indeed, this post may seem like a lot of energy to devote to something as ho-hum as word choice for a wine tasting theme, and you might even be thinking by now (if you haven’t stopped reading altogether), “Who cares?” I do, for one. Before I was a half-cocked amateur wine critic I was, and am, a professor of rhetoric. It’s in my nature to pay attention to the sometimes extraordinary meanings that inhere in mundane language, as well as to share what I find with others. And, if you have made it this far into this post, then I have done what I set out to do: there’s no way, after today, that you’ll ever hear the word “decadent” again without giving it at least a second thought.
Now, the notes:
1. Merryvale Profile 2002 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine has a great nose, with cassis, baked cherry, leathery spice, and just the right amount of toasty oak. The full-bodied palate reveals young, dark flavors of black cherry, bitter leather, chocolate, and spice with big, scratchy tannins dominating the profile (no pun intended). This is a wine to come back to in 3-5 years to see if it has come into balance, because if it does, it's going to be a knockout.
2. Lagier Meredith Syrah 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
The nose on this mountain-grown Syrah is big and fruity, with ripe plums and berries supporting secondary notes of spice and creamy vanilla. Full-bodied, with wonderfully bright acidity, it offers flavors of dark berries and black pepper with an enticing eucalyptus note on the finish. The tannins are nicely integrated. Try this syrah with grilled meat.
3. Conn Valley Right Bank 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
"Right Bank" refers to the right bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux, where blends tend to be based on Merlot instead of Cabernet Sauvignon. And this wine is surprisingly Bordeaux-like, with earth and leather coming through on the nose and flavors of tart but ripe plum, tobacco, soil, and a hint of black licorice. Full-bodied with soft tannins, this is a beautiful wine that would pair perfectly with lamb or prime rib.
4. El Nido Clio 2005 ($59.99/bottle)
The nose on this very rich Monastrell blend from Jumilla, Spain makes you think it's going to be way over-the-top, even (dare I say?) decadent, with aromas of super-ripe crushed blueberries, vanilla, cream, and toasty spice. Nevertheless, the voluptuous but well-structured palate displays breathtaking balance, even finesse, with an almost refreshingly minty finish that makes you want another sip. You could drink this masterpiece of a wine with food, but why would you want to?
5. The Standish Shiraz 2003 ($79.99/bottle)
This Aussie Shiraz is big, thick and almost over-ripe. The nose offers pronounced aromas of caramelized sugar, smoke, and soft black olives, while the palate shows dark flavors of ripe blackberry, black olive, and a blast of black pepper. This wine is definitely indulgent, and it does a nice job as such, but it would be hard to justify buying a bottle when I know it's in the same price range as D'Arenberg's nearly perfect Dead Arm Shiraz and a number of other stunningly rich and balanced Aussie Shirazes.
6. Caldwell Red Wine 2004 ($104.99/bottle)
This nice, dark, full-bodied red shows flavors and aromas of very ripe, smoky plum, oak, and black olive, with some licorice on the finish.
7. Presidential NV 20-Year Port ($46.99/bottle)
Once you get past the formiddable alcohol (20%), there is a beautifully aromatic and tasty blend of caramel, vanilla, and orange/gran marnier waiting. A definite choice for those NW Ohio winters.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Tasting Notes (July 24): Stag's Leap
While I don't know for sure, I feel safe in saying that this tasting was the most geographically specific one in Stimmels' history. The Stag's Leap American Viticultural Area (AVA) is actually a tiny sub-region inside the already-smallish Napa Valley in California. Located along a short stretch of the Vaca mountain range, which forms the eastern border of the valley, Stag's Leap is home to some of my favorite wineries anywhere, not the least of which is the legendary Stag's Leap Wine Cellars--whose flagship "S.L.V." Cabernet Sauvignon stunned the wine world in 1976 by besting a slew of top French Bordeauxs in the infmaous "judgment of Paris." Unfortunately, the S.L.V. couldn't be a part of this lineup, and my other favorite Stag's Leap Cab, from Regusci, had been poured too recently to be included. Still, this was a great night of wine, and I have to say that, while the Shafer was clearly the best wine overall, the Stags' Leap Winery's (note: not the same as the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, but rather a different winery altogether) Petit Syrah (normally spelled Petit Sirah) was a brilliant offering as well.
Now the notes:
1. Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
If memory serves, this was the only wine in the lineup not at least partially sourced from Stag's Leap (which, as I understand it, is too cool to produce great Sauv Blancs). The classic nose shows citrus, grass, and a subtle chive note. Light-medium bodied, with a pleasingly bold shock of acidity animating fresh, clean citrus and herbal flavors. The finish has an interesting minerally tinge. I tasted several Sauv Blancs in Napa Valley recently, and many of them were flabby and uninteresting. Not this one. Seek it out.
2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2006 ($33.99/bottle)
This medium bodied Chard is made in a crisp style, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, minerals, and smoke. A light touch of butter adds depth without weighing the wine down. Perfect for Lobster--which I know you (yeah, you) eat all the time!
3. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
SLWC is known for its Merlot, so I was excited to try this one. The nose doesn't disappoint, with a complex mix of spicy plum, oak, pencil lead, and dry brown dirt. Flavors of tart but ripe plums, tar and earth, however, are virtually sandblasted away by scratchy tannins. If the fruit holds out, this could still be a nice wine in a few years. Let's hope. Try this one in 2-5 years to see if it's more accessible.
4. Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
This full bodied Cab has a rich, plump nose of cassis, leather, cinnamon, and violets. With a beautiful, velvety mouthfeel, it offers flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa, and black licorice. Dark, rich, and big, with medium-grained tannins providing plenty of "grip." Nice.
5. Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.99/bottle)
Stag's Leap reds often hint of the Old World, with subtle earthy notes not common in the rest of the valley. The Silverado Cab was the one in tonight's lineup that came closest to fitting this mold, with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoke. On the palate it is full bodied and ripe, with flavors of sweet berries, peppery spice, and a little bit of tobacco. The big fruit and assertive tannins should harmonize in 5-7 years. I can't wait.
6. Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five 2004 ($75.99/bottle)
Clearly the star in this lineup, the Shafer is a beautiful, full bodied wine. The nose shows cassis, black earth, and violets, while the dark, rich, chocolatey palate is buttressed by firm but fine tannins. The finish is wonderfully dark and bitter. As I tasted this wine, I wanted an equally rich prime rib to go with it.
7. Stag's Leap Winery Petit Syrah 2005 ($38.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, jammy nose with notes of smoke, menthol, and caramel. Very full bodied, this wine is big, tannic, and rich, with flavors of dark fruits and smoke and a big, licoricey finish. A real eye-opener. What to pair it with? Grilled steak, grilled steak, grilled steak. Or maybe grilled steak.
Now the notes:
1. Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
If memory serves, this was the only wine in the lineup not at least partially sourced from Stag's Leap (which, as I understand it, is too cool to produce great Sauv Blancs). The classic nose shows citrus, grass, and a subtle chive note. Light-medium bodied, with a pleasingly bold shock of acidity animating fresh, clean citrus and herbal flavors. The finish has an interesting minerally tinge. I tasted several Sauv Blancs in Napa Valley recently, and many of them were flabby and uninteresting. Not this one. Seek it out.
2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2006 ($33.99/bottle)
This medium bodied Chard is made in a crisp style, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, minerals, and smoke. A light touch of butter adds depth without weighing the wine down. Perfect for Lobster--which I know you (yeah, you) eat all the time!
3. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
SLWC is known for its Merlot, so I was excited to try this one. The nose doesn't disappoint, with a complex mix of spicy plum, oak, pencil lead, and dry brown dirt. Flavors of tart but ripe plums, tar and earth, however, are virtually sandblasted away by scratchy tannins. If the fruit holds out, this could still be a nice wine in a few years. Let's hope. Try this one in 2-5 years to see if it's more accessible.
4. Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
This full bodied Cab has a rich, plump nose of cassis, leather, cinnamon, and violets. With a beautiful, velvety mouthfeel, it offers flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa, and black licorice. Dark, rich, and big, with medium-grained tannins providing plenty of "grip." Nice.
5. Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.99/bottle)
Stag's Leap reds often hint of the Old World, with subtle earthy notes not common in the rest of the valley. The Silverado Cab was the one in tonight's lineup that came closest to fitting this mold, with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoke. On the palate it is full bodied and ripe, with flavors of sweet berries, peppery spice, and a little bit of tobacco. The big fruit and assertive tannins should harmonize in 5-7 years. I can't wait.
6. Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five 2004 ($75.99/bottle)
Clearly the star in this lineup, the Shafer is a beautiful, full bodied wine. The nose shows cassis, black earth, and violets, while the dark, rich, chocolatey palate is buttressed by firm but fine tannins. The finish is wonderfully dark and bitter. As I tasted this wine, I wanted an equally rich prime rib to go with it.
7. Stag's Leap Winery Petit Syrah 2005 ($38.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, jammy nose with notes of smoke, menthol, and caramel. Very full bodied, this wine is big, tannic, and rich, with flavors of dark fruits and smoke and a big, licoricey finish. A real eye-opener. What to pair it with? Grilled steak, grilled steak, grilled steak. Or maybe grilled steak.
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