Thanks to holiday travel, these notes have been on the vine a couple extra weeks now. But, like a fine Riesling, they should be all the sweeter for the wait.
1. Beringer Sbragia Limited-Release Chardonnay 2002 ($29.99/bottle)
Deep yellow luminescent color, like gold tinsel, with inviting aromas of butter, earth, mango, and oak. Rich and buttery on the palate, with flavors of apple pie and a hint of smoke. The high alcohol content (over 15%) gives this opulent wine a viscous, full body and a light but pleasant touch of sweetness. Ridiculously long finish, with some alcohol lingering. Pair with lobster or just enjoy.
2. Aramis Shiraz 2003 ($23.99/bottle)
With aromas of blueberries, vanilla, violets, and a faint earthiness, this plush, full-bodied shiraz offers flavors of juicy dark berries and oak. Finishes long with fresh ripe blueberries and fine-grained tannins. Very pleasant.
3. Chappellet Mountain Cuvee 2005 ($28.99/bottle)
Aromas of purple grape, plum, and roasted meat give way to flavors of black cherry and plum fruit, aromatic herbs, and stewed meat. This rustic but nice Bordeaux-style blend reminds me a bit of an Argentinian carmenère, which is never a bad thing.
4. Caldwell Rocket Science 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Much as I hate it when winemakers label their wines "proprietary blend" instead of listing the constituent grapes and their ratios, I have to admit that such wines are often very good. This red blend is no exception, with an intriguing nose of cherry, charcoal, and cinnamon and flavors of cherry, leather, spice, and toasty oak--all followed by a long, vanilla-laced finish. Soft tannins support a smooth, velvety mouthfeel.
5. Pahlmeyer Jayson 2004 ($55.99/bottle)
This tasty and vibrant red offers aromas of blackberry, currant, toast, and a slight but not unpleasant greenness. On the palate, it shows flavors of ripe black plum, pepper, and leather, finishing with bitter herb. Very lively and kinetic in the mouth, with enough acid to make it a versatile choice with food.
6. Turnbull Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($47.99/bottle)
This cab offers intriguing aromas of black currant, leaf lettuce, and caramelized meat juices; flavors of very ripe, rich cherry and sweet rhubarb; and a decadent mouthfeel that can only be described as gooey. The long, luxurious finish turns to vanilla as it lingers. With well-integrated but firm tannins, it could stay in the bottle another 5-10 years. Perfect by itself or alongside a fillet with demi-glace.
7. Chambers Muscadelle NV ($16.99/bottle)
This non-vintage dessert wine smells like honey, pineapple upside down cake, and musk. Very thick in the mouth, it offers pronounced flavors of honey and ultra-caramelized brown sugar laced with cigarette tobacco. Very long finish with honeysuckle predominating.
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Baker's Dozen
I was originally going to post a list of my 5 favorite wines that were poured here at Stimmel's in 2007 (pared from about 600), but it became increasingly difficult to pick and choose. So, I decided to post my "lucky seven", then it became my "top ten", "top twelve", and now I've finally gone with the "baker's dozen", an ode to the OTHER part of Stimmel's Market that generates buzz, our scratch-baked donuts, pastries, cookies, etc.
All 13 bottles of wine are red (I'll post a top white wine/dessert wine list soon), and range in price from about $16 all the way up to $125. Keep in mind that there are several, if not dozens, of excellent wines that fell just short of making the list, and the wines on the list are reflective of a combination of my personal palate, as well as the general reaction of customers who enjoyed them at the tastings. Here they are, with some of my notes:
13. Chateau Fontenil 2003 (France Bordeaux, $39.99) - From the hot '03 vintage, this Bordeaux was showing quite well when poured back in February. Complex, with notes of ripe fruit and chocolate, yet tannic with a touch of vanilla from the oak in the finish. Delicious, and a wine that will age gracefully for years.
12. Sea Smoke Southing 2005 (California Pinot Noir, $54.99) - Easily one of the two best Pinots that I tasted this year, it was a wine that was full-bodied, somewhat tannic, with fresh berry flavors and a touch of spice. Just an absolute pleasure to drink.
11. Shirvington Shiraz 2004 (Australia, $69.99) - Sure, I've tasted several big, ripe, Aussie fruit bombs in the last year, some of which were real head-turners (like anything from Mollydooker), but this Shirvington made a real impression on me when I poured it way back in January. Lots of fruit as expected, but an amazing silky, velvety mouthfeel and a finish that went on forever.
10. Altos de Luzon 2004 (Spain Jumilla Blend, $16.99) - This might not be in the same league as the other reds on this list, but the fact that it's an amazing value (and my pick for best red wine under $20) gives this Spanish gem an invite. Ripe fruit with a touch of acidity and a wonderful mouthfeel make this an all-time QPR - and kudos to Lance for discovering it.
9. Orin Swift The Prisoner 2005 (California Blend, $36.99) - Zinfandel is the lead grape in this blend, and the fruit is there, but what made this wine so great to me was the balance and the smoothness. It's more than just a pretty face, and along with The Impostor from JC Cellars, re-defined what I thought a California Zinfandel blend could be.
8. Clos Mogador 1998 (Spain Priorat, $59.99) - The first of two great Priorat wines on the list, we actually poured this wine three times in 2007; twice on Thursday nights, and at the Monday night cheese tasting in September. I actually tasted this wine for the first time over a year ago, and it was really my first foray into the wonderful world of Priorat, which became my favorite up-and-coming wine region this past year. The Mogador is powerful, yet nuanced, rich and fruit-driven, yet earthy and mineral-laden. A terrific wine.
7. Red Car Shake Rattle and Roll 2005 (California Syrah, $59.99) - In a year in which I fell in love with Syrah all over the world, the Red Car was the best from California. It's everything that I love about new-world wine: rich, plush, complex, drinkable now but able to cellar for a few years or more. This is a big wine.
6. Etude Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (California, $85.99) - I'd read some great wine press about this Cab before finally getting around to pouring it in March. I wasn't the least bit disappointed, and it was one of those rare times for me when the bottle of wine lived up to the hype. Incredibly silky, yet lively and spicy, it was the best California Cab I tried in 2007.
5. Miner Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 (California, $65.99) - This was my favorite Pinot of the year (just edging the Sea Smoke). Too easy to like, it was unbelievably smooth, velvety and creamy, with just the right amount of dark berry fruit and a touch of earthiness.
4. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2001 (France, Rhone $74.99) - A slightly oxidized version of this wine is still quite good, as we found out at the Syrah tasting back in August. The first bottle we opened had an issue with the cork, and despite Sara's warning, I foolishly poured it anyway. I thought the fruit was generally missing, but it otherwise was still well-structured and enjoyable. Well, when I finally decided to pop the second bottle and try it, I was blown away by the difference. The "good" bottle was unreal in its complexity, and the bright fruit flavors made this a serious candidate for the top spot.
3. Fratelli Revello Barolo 2001 (Italy, $69.99) - I first poured this at a tasting back in late 2006, and had I compiled a "best of '06" list, it might have won. Well, I also poured it again early in '07, and it's still in the mix . The best Italian wine (and I've been fortunate to try many) I've had this year, the fruit sings and the texture takes "silky" to a whole new dimension.
2. Mas Igneus 2001 (Spain Priorat, $74.99) - Spain is such an exciting place these days for wine lovers, and there are so many growing areas in different parts of the country that are enjoying massive upgrades in overall quality. I easily could have included a couple of different wines from Ribera del Duero, Rioja or Toro on the list (as it is, I've got 3 Spanish wines already), but I can't deny my affinity for great Priorat efforts like this one. A stunning wine, nary a day has gone by the last 10 months without me thinking of the Mas Igneus. Simply a masterpiece.
1. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1998 (France Rhone, $125.99) - The '98 La Chapelle fueled more strong reactions than any other wine that we poured in '07. Several people claimed it was "the best wine that they ever had". Some likened it to "dishwater"; ah, the fervor, the passion. While I certainly enjoyed wines that were more of a hedonistic pleasure, and other wines that showed better fruit, more earth, and better balance, no wine taxed my brain like this one did. Too many aromas and flavors to identify, it was both playful and beguiling, and triggered my year-long obsession with Rhone's great wines.
All 13 bottles of wine are red (I'll post a top white wine/dessert wine list soon), and range in price from about $16 all the way up to $125. Keep in mind that there are several, if not dozens, of excellent wines that fell just short of making the list, and the wines on the list are reflective of a combination of my personal palate, as well as the general reaction of customers who enjoyed them at the tastings. Here they are, with some of my notes:
13. Chateau Fontenil 2003 (France Bordeaux, $39.99) - From the hot '03 vintage, this Bordeaux was showing quite well when poured back in February. Complex, with notes of ripe fruit and chocolate, yet tannic with a touch of vanilla from the oak in the finish. Delicious, and a wine that will age gracefully for years.
12. Sea Smoke Southing 2005 (California Pinot Noir, $54.99) - Easily one of the two best Pinots that I tasted this year, it was a wine that was full-bodied, somewhat tannic, with fresh berry flavors and a touch of spice. Just an absolute pleasure to drink.
11. Shirvington Shiraz 2004 (Australia, $69.99) - Sure, I've tasted several big, ripe, Aussie fruit bombs in the last year, some of which were real head-turners (like anything from Mollydooker), but this Shirvington made a real impression on me when I poured it way back in January. Lots of fruit as expected, but an amazing silky, velvety mouthfeel and a finish that went on forever.
10. Altos de Luzon 2004 (Spain Jumilla Blend, $16.99) - This might not be in the same league as the other reds on this list, but the fact that it's an amazing value (and my pick for best red wine under $20) gives this Spanish gem an invite. Ripe fruit with a touch of acidity and a wonderful mouthfeel make this an all-time QPR - and kudos to Lance for discovering it.
9. Orin Swift The Prisoner 2005 (California Blend, $36.99) - Zinfandel is the lead grape in this blend, and the fruit is there, but what made this wine so great to me was the balance and the smoothness. It's more than just a pretty face, and along with The Impostor from JC Cellars, re-defined what I thought a California Zinfandel blend could be.
8. Clos Mogador 1998 (Spain Priorat, $59.99) - The first of two great Priorat wines on the list, we actually poured this wine three times in 2007; twice on Thursday nights, and at the Monday night cheese tasting in September. I actually tasted this wine for the first time over a year ago, and it was really my first foray into the wonderful world of Priorat, which became my favorite up-and-coming wine region this past year. The Mogador is powerful, yet nuanced, rich and fruit-driven, yet earthy and mineral-laden. A terrific wine.
7. Red Car Shake Rattle and Roll 2005 (California Syrah, $59.99) - In a year in which I fell in love with Syrah all over the world, the Red Car was the best from California. It's everything that I love about new-world wine: rich, plush, complex, drinkable now but able to cellar for a few years or more. This is a big wine.
6. Etude Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (California, $85.99) - I'd read some great wine press about this Cab before finally getting around to pouring it in March. I wasn't the least bit disappointed, and it was one of those rare times for me when the bottle of wine lived up to the hype. Incredibly silky, yet lively and spicy, it was the best California Cab I tried in 2007.
5. Miner Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 (California, $65.99) - This was my favorite Pinot of the year (just edging the Sea Smoke). Too easy to like, it was unbelievably smooth, velvety and creamy, with just the right amount of dark berry fruit and a touch of earthiness.
4. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2001 (France, Rhone $74.99) - A slightly oxidized version of this wine is still quite good, as we found out at the Syrah tasting back in August. The first bottle we opened had an issue with the cork, and despite Sara's warning, I foolishly poured it anyway. I thought the fruit was generally missing, but it otherwise was still well-structured and enjoyable. Well, when I finally decided to pop the second bottle and try it, I was blown away by the difference. The "good" bottle was unreal in its complexity, and the bright fruit flavors made this a serious candidate for the top spot.
3. Fratelli Revello Barolo 2001 (Italy, $69.99) - I first poured this at a tasting back in late 2006, and had I compiled a "best of '06" list, it might have won. Well, I also poured it again early in '07, and it's still in the mix . The best Italian wine (and I've been fortunate to try many) I've had this year, the fruit sings and the texture takes "silky" to a whole new dimension.
2. Mas Igneus 2001 (Spain Priorat, $74.99) - Spain is such an exciting place these days for wine lovers, and there are so many growing areas in different parts of the country that are enjoying massive upgrades in overall quality. I easily could have included a couple of different wines from Ribera del Duero, Rioja or Toro on the list (as it is, I've got 3 Spanish wines already), but I can't deny my affinity for great Priorat efforts like this one. A stunning wine, nary a day has gone by the last 10 months without me thinking of the Mas Igneus. Simply a masterpiece.
1. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1998 (France Rhone, $125.99) - The '98 La Chapelle fueled more strong reactions than any other wine that we poured in '07. Several people claimed it was "the best wine that they ever had". Some likened it to "dishwater"; ah, the fervor, the passion. While I certainly enjoyed wines that were more of a hedonistic pleasure, and other wines that showed better fruit, more earth, and better balance, no wine taxed my brain like this one did. Too many aromas and flavors to identify, it was both playful and beguiling, and triggered my year-long obsession with Rhone's great wines.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Vin Mousseux...
...translated as "sparkling wine", takes center stage this time of year as we all have plenty to celebrate. New Year's is just around the corner, so stock up on bubblies for the festivities. Here at Stimmel's Market, we offer dozens of great sparklers, and always have something for every taste and budget. Here are a few ideas:
Champagne:
We have the classics, such as Dom Perignon and Perrier-Jouet, and also feature other heavy hitters, like Moet and Chandon White Star, Henriot, Pol Roger, Delamotte and Duval-Leroy.
California:
Look for outstanding bottles from top producers like Mumm Napa, Schramsberg, Roederer Estate and Piper Sonoma.
Values:
Easy on the wallet, nice bubblies from Tosti, Korbel, Cook's and Domaine St. Michelle are all crowd-pleasers.
Cheers!
Champagne:
We have the classics, such as Dom Perignon and Perrier-Jouet, and also feature other heavy hitters, like Moet and Chandon White Star, Henriot, Pol Roger, Delamotte and Duval-Leroy.
California:
Look for outstanding bottles from top producers like Mumm Napa, Schramsberg, Roederer Estate and Piper Sonoma.
Values:
Easy on the wallet, nice bubblies from Tosti, Korbel, Cook's and Domaine St. Michelle are all crowd-pleasers.
Cheers!
Saturday, December 22, 2007
New Beers of the Year
Sometime around 1991, maybe '92, while listening to Achtung Baby for the gazillionth time and watching re-runs of Get a Life, I remember thinking to myself that there had to be more to beer than just Natural Light, Busch Light, and their associated ilk. Rolling Rock represented the most dramatic departure from the same "flavors" that I'd experienced in all of those mass-produced light beers, and it only had a faint dryness that set it apart. I bought my first six-pack of Sam Adams Boston Lager a few days later, and was off and running into the world of craft beer.
My, how things have changed. I've personally tried over 3,000 beers in the last 15 years or so, including a couple hundred new ones this year. I've compiled a list of what I think to be the 10 best new American beers from 2007 - check them out below and let me know what you think!
10. Chicken Killer Barleywine (Santa Fe Brewing Co., Santa Fe, NM) - Great name, but an even better beer. Unlike many domestic barleywines that want to "kill" you with hops, this one is a malt lover's dream. Huge, malty, grainy sweetness with a touch of hoppiness for balance, it's one of the best barleywines I've ever had the pleasure to drink.
9. Backwoods Bastard (Founders Brewing Co., Grand Rapids, MI) - Another malty gem, this is a barrel-aged version of their Scotch Ale. Incredibly smooth, almost velvety, it's a real treat.
8. Prohibition Pilsner (Great Lakes Brewing Co., Cleveland, OH) - A dead ringer for Pilsner Urquell, this brew reaffirmed my belief that Great Lakes truly has the midas touch.
7. BORIS The Crusher Imperial Oatmeal Stout (Hoppin' Frog Brewing Co., Akron, OH) - Incredible effort from a new brewery here in the buckeye state. The BORIS is a roasted, full-bodied, powerful dark ale that somehow manages to melt in your mouth. It's easily the best stout I drank this year.
6. Copper Kettle Weiss (New Glarus Brewing Co., New Glarus, WI.) - Think of smoked bananas. Yeah, it does sound weird, but trust me, I couldn't get enough of this beer. A rich, dark wheat brew that hits the spot anytime of year. Highly addictive.
5. Mad Elf (Troegs Brewing Co., Harrisburg, PA) - I've been wanting to try this beer for years, and thanks to my friend Glenn, I finally got the chance a few weeks ago. Wow, it is like chocolate covered cherries dipped in a heavy liquid malt. Delicious, and strong - a perfect sipper on a cold winter night.
4. Boss Cox Dark IPA (Barrelhouse Brewing Co., Cincinnati, OH) - A blast of caramel and toffee is followed by pleasant notes of spice and bitterness. An incredibly complex beer.
3. Dancing Man Wheat (New Glarus Brewing Co., New Glarus, WI.) - Quite possibly the best American wheat beer that I've ever tried. Hints of banana and clove, crisp and easy to drink, it is the ultimate summertime beer, and gives the best German Hefeweizens a run for their money.
2. Pumking (Southern Tier Brewing Co., Lakewood, NY) - I've tried dozens of pumpkin beers over the years, many of which have been underwhelming, some just plain awful. Pumking is easily the best of the bunch, and stands out for its natural pumpkin flavor and amazing creaminess. It tastes exactly like a slice of pumpkin pie with melted vanilla ice cream. Amazing stuff.
1. Christmas Ale (Kuhnenn Brewing Co., Warren, MI) - Milk chocolate, dark chocolate, vanilla, coffee, this one has it all. A hedonistic pleasure as well as a beer to tickle the mind. One of the few beers I've had in my life that had me thinking about it every day for months.
Cheers!
My, how things have changed. I've personally tried over 3,000 beers in the last 15 years or so, including a couple hundred new ones this year. I've compiled a list of what I think to be the 10 best new American beers from 2007 - check them out below and let me know what you think!
10. Chicken Killer Barleywine (Santa Fe Brewing Co., Santa Fe, NM) - Great name, but an even better beer. Unlike many domestic barleywines that want to "kill" you with hops, this one is a malt lover's dream. Huge, malty, grainy sweetness with a touch of hoppiness for balance, it's one of the best barleywines I've ever had the pleasure to drink.
9. Backwoods Bastard (Founders Brewing Co., Grand Rapids, MI) - Another malty gem, this is a barrel-aged version of their Scotch Ale. Incredibly smooth, almost velvety, it's a real treat.
8. Prohibition Pilsner (Great Lakes Brewing Co., Cleveland, OH) - A dead ringer for Pilsner Urquell, this brew reaffirmed my belief that Great Lakes truly has the midas touch.
7. BORIS The Crusher Imperial Oatmeal Stout (Hoppin' Frog Brewing Co., Akron, OH) - Incredible effort from a new brewery here in the buckeye state. The BORIS is a roasted, full-bodied, powerful dark ale that somehow manages to melt in your mouth. It's easily the best stout I drank this year.
6. Copper Kettle Weiss (New Glarus Brewing Co., New Glarus, WI.) - Think of smoked bananas. Yeah, it does sound weird, but trust me, I couldn't get enough of this beer. A rich, dark wheat brew that hits the spot anytime of year. Highly addictive.
5. Mad Elf (Troegs Brewing Co., Harrisburg, PA) - I've been wanting to try this beer for years, and thanks to my friend Glenn, I finally got the chance a few weeks ago. Wow, it is like chocolate covered cherries dipped in a heavy liquid malt. Delicious, and strong - a perfect sipper on a cold winter night.
4. Boss Cox Dark IPA (Barrelhouse Brewing Co., Cincinnati, OH) - A blast of caramel and toffee is followed by pleasant notes of spice and bitterness. An incredibly complex beer.
3. Dancing Man Wheat (New Glarus Brewing Co., New Glarus, WI.) - Quite possibly the best American wheat beer that I've ever tried. Hints of banana and clove, crisp and easy to drink, it is the ultimate summertime beer, and gives the best German Hefeweizens a run for their money.
2. Pumking (Southern Tier Brewing Co., Lakewood, NY) - I've tried dozens of pumpkin beers over the years, many of which have been underwhelming, some just plain awful. Pumking is easily the best of the bunch, and stands out for its natural pumpkin flavor and amazing creaminess. It tastes exactly like a slice of pumpkin pie with melted vanilla ice cream. Amazing stuff.
1. Christmas Ale (Kuhnenn Brewing Co., Warren, MI) - Milk chocolate, dark chocolate, vanilla, coffee, this one has it all. A hedonistic pleasure as well as a beer to tickle the mind. One of the few beers I've had in my life that had me thinking about it every day for months.
Cheers!
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Blind Tasting Notes (Dec. 17): Aromas of Humble Pie
Last night was the last blind tasting of 2007, and let's just say I'm looking forward to the first one of 2008. My score of 1 out of 7 wines correctly identified was statistically no more accurate than if I had just shouted out the wines one at a time and let a trained chicken peck its way through the anonymous bottles. Still, the evening wasn't a total wash.
First, there's the fact that everybody present got to taste a bunch of very nice wines. (So how bad could it have been, really?)
Second, I can still rely on my old friends, the Rhones. Southern or northern--it doesn't seem to matter: for whatever reason, they're as easy for me to identify in a lineup as an olive in a box of chocolates. It's nice to have something one can count on, no?
Finally, as I look back at my notes, I see clues in my descriptions that, had I just not thought so much, might have led me to the right choice. That is--and I suspect that the same is true for most devoted amateur tasters--it seems not to have been my senses that failed me but, rather, my ability to use the information they provided to correctly identify the wine I was tasting. Indeed, that's a truly difficult thing to do, in part because most of us who taste wines at Stimmel's just don't have a deep well of experience to draw on (I've probably only tried two or three pinotages in my life, for example, and only a handful more malbecs). But it's also difficult because it's a big jump from being able to articulate a linearly-experienced series of sensory impressions to being able to synthesize those impressions into a coherent whole that allows one to say, with authority, "This wine comes from Priorat."
I'll leave the question of just how important the power of suggestion is in interpreting wines' qualities (and quality!) for another time, though the short answer has to be that it certainly comes into play for all but the most naturally gifted and independently-minded tasters (and maybe even still for them). For the rest of us, though, we'll have to accept the occasionally pronounced and concentrated aroma of humble pie in our wines.
Now, the notes, with my guess (with a line through it) followed by the correct answer (including winery, vintage, and price, which was only supplied with the answers; beforehand, all that was supplied was the kind of wine, either by varietal or region):
1.Shiraz Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
Oaky, jammy nose, with aromas of black and red berries and some spice. Dark red, this medium-full bodied wine offers flavors of tart blackberry, spice, and licorice.
2. (I got this one right.) Domaine Saint Siffrein Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
The tasting sheet listed "France Southern Rhone" as an option, but I knew this was a CdP. Medium-red tinged with brown, the wine boldly and without shame puts out aromas of manure/barnyard layered with loads of pencil shavings (graphite and woody aromas) and a slight brininess. Very smooth, with drying tannins that could still soften with another year or two in the bottle, the wine offers flavors of blackberry, cedar, graphite, and barnyard.
3.Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Torres Salmos Priorat 2005 ($32.99/bottle)
Dark purple/garnet, with notes of plum, cassis, and vanilla on the nose. Sweet cherry fruit, lots of spice, and toasty oak on the palate.
4.Pinotage Zenato Ripassa 2004 ($26.99/bottle)
Inky purple, with aromas of big, bold, grapey fruit layered with mineral and some slightly green, woody notes. Flavors of superripe blackberry and black plum, oak, spice, and stewed meat. Of all the wines I got wrong, this is the one I just plain shouldn't have missed, stewed meat or not.
5.Priorat Liparita Enlace Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($18.99/bottle)
Dark maroon, with a nose of ripe currant, cassis, and vanilla. Dark berry fruit flavor is layered with sanguine notes and violets.
6.Malbec Fairview Primo Pinotage 2002 ($24.99/bottle)
A blast of smoke on the nose--this wine smells like a bbq (with plum-based sauce). Lots of smoke, plums, and cherry on the palate, with a faint note of dried flowers.
7.Ripassa Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz 2005 ($17.99/bottle)
Very dark, opaque magenta, with aromas of candied spice, orange peel, and something like roasted chicken, and flavors of dark chocolate-covered orange peel, gran marnier, and clove. Very Christmassy wine (had it been a choice, and color notwithstanding, I would have said this was a Tuscan).
That's it. Here's to learning, and lemmee at 'em next time.
First, there's the fact that everybody present got to taste a bunch of very nice wines. (So how bad could it have been, really?)
Second, I can still rely on my old friends, the Rhones. Southern or northern--it doesn't seem to matter: for whatever reason, they're as easy for me to identify in a lineup as an olive in a box of chocolates. It's nice to have something one can count on, no?
Finally, as I look back at my notes, I see clues in my descriptions that, had I just not thought so much, might have led me to the right choice. That is--and I suspect that the same is true for most devoted amateur tasters--it seems not to have been my senses that failed me but, rather, my ability to use the information they provided to correctly identify the wine I was tasting. Indeed, that's a truly difficult thing to do, in part because most of us who taste wines at Stimmel's just don't have a deep well of experience to draw on (I've probably only tried two or three pinotages in my life, for example, and only a handful more malbecs). But it's also difficult because it's a big jump from being able to articulate a linearly-experienced series of sensory impressions to being able to synthesize those impressions into a coherent whole that allows one to say, with authority, "This wine comes from Priorat."
I'll leave the question of just how important the power of suggestion is in interpreting wines' qualities (and quality!) for another time, though the short answer has to be that it certainly comes into play for all but the most naturally gifted and independently-minded tasters (and maybe even still for them). For the rest of us, though, we'll have to accept the occasionally pronounced and concentrated aroma of humble pie in our wines.
Now, the notes, with my guess (with a line through it) followed by the correct answer (including winery, vintage, and price, which was only supplied with the answers; beforehand, all that was supplied was the kind of wine, either by varietal or region):
1.
Oaky, jammy nose, with aromas of black and red berries and some spice. Dark red, this medium-full bodied wine offers flavors of tart blackberry, spice, and licorice.
2. (I got this one right.) Domaine Saint Siffrein Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
The tasting sheet listed "France Southern Rhone" as an option, but I knew this was a CdP. Medium-red tinged with brown, the wine boldly and without shame puts out aromas of manure/barnyard layered with loads of pencil shavings (graphite and woody aromas) and a slight brininess. Very smooth, with drying tannins that could still soften with another year or two in the bottle, the wine offers flavors of blackberry, cedar, graphite, and barnyard.
3.
Dark purple/garnet, with notes of plum, cassis, and vanilla on the nose. Sweet cherry fruit, lots of spice, and toasty oak on the palate.
4.
Inky purple, with aromas of big, bold, grapey fruit layered with mineral and some slightly green, woody notes. Flavors of superripe blackberry and black plum, oak, spice, and stewed meat. Of all the wines I got wrong, this is the one I just plain shouldn't have missed, stewed meat or not.
5.
Dark maroon, with a nose of ripe currant, cassis, and vanilla. Dark berry fruit flavor is layered with sanguine notes and violets.
6.
A blast of smoke on the nose--this wine smells like a bbq (with plum-based sauce). Lots of smoke, plums, and cherry on the palate, with a faint note of dried flowers.
7.
Very dark, opaque magenta, with aromas of candied spice, orange peel, and something like roasted chicken, and flavors of dark chocolate-covered orange peel, gran marnier, and clove. Very Christmassy wine (had it been a choice, and color notwithstanding, I would have said this was a Tuscan).
That's it. Here's to learning, and lemmee at 'em next time.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Tasting Notes: Napa Cabs (Dec. 13)
I thought about giving this post the subtitle, "a lesson in terroir," because that's what it was. "Terroir" is difficult to translate from the French, but it is generally used to indicate the combined effect of soil, climate, and topography on the flavor of a wine and is usually applied to wines that have a distinct regional character. And while it can be difficult to tell where terroir ends and winemaking techniques begin (it's been said that American winemakers manipulate their wines to the detriment of their natural terroirs), last night's lineup of Napa Cabernets had enough in common that I have to believe they were expressing, at least in part, the place from which they came. So here they are. Can you get a sense of the terroir from my notes? (All wines are Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons except the Tokaji dessert wine at the end):
1. Ehlers Estate 2004 ($34.99/bottle)
With aromas of cassis, black currant, oak, and the slightest suggestion of smoke, this uncomplicated but very tasty medium-full bodied wine offers flavors of currant, tart plum, and oak, with a light herbal note on the finish. I want to drink this with a gourmet hamburger.
2. Robert Craig Affinity 2003 ($44.99/bottle)
Wonderful, enchanting aromas of dark berries, clove, cinnamon, and toasty oak gives way to flavors of tart raspberry fruit, oak, clove, and spice.
3. Whitehall Lane 2004 ($43.99/bottle)
Despite my comments about terroir above, this wine's nose stood out as different from the others, showing more cherry and adding a cedary layer to the more expected oak aromas (see also #5 below). It offers flavors of blackberry, oak, and a hint of cocoa, with firm tannins emerging on the finish, suggesting a need for longer aging. It's good now, but it will be better in two or three years.
4.Schweiger 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
Cassis, oak, and red licorice aromas lay the groundwork for flavors of blackberry, black currant, black pepper, and coffee, all rounded out by toasty oak. Full-bodied, this wine's plush mouthfeel mitigates the drying tannins on the finish.
5. Ghost Block 2004 ($59.99/bottle)
With ripe jammy fruit, green pepper, and a touch of smoke on the nose, this wine smells as much like an Argentinian carmenère as a Napa cab and, so, is one of two wines whose aromas don't fit this lineup's standard profile (see also #3, above). But with flavors of concentrated dark berry fruit, coca-cola, cinnamon, and fig, who cares? This is a big, rich, new-world wine, and I like it.
6. Fisher Coach Insignia 2003 ($71.99/bottle)
The berry and oak aromas of this wine are so concentrated and rich that they suggest a mixture of black cherry and cream sodas. The flavor reveals dark berry fruit that is very ripe without being sweet or cloying, followed by a hint of bitter herbs on the finish. The real strength of this wine, however, is its combination of plush mouthfeel--seamless red velvet--with surprising but well-balanced acidity. It simply screams for a rich slab of prime rib. Red velvet? Prime rib? Christmas, anyone?
7. Robert Mondavi Reserve 2004 ($125.99/bottle)
Very expressive nose of rich, concentrated cassis, vanilla, spice, and molasses cookie. Ripe cassis and berry fruit is well-balanced with candied spice and a hint of tar, all set against firm but integrated tannins. Oak is present but restrained. This wine is fantastic now; in five years it will be stunning. Don't forget the steak when you pop this knockout.
8. Tokaj Kereskedohaz Tokaji Aszu 2001 4 puttonyos (26.99/500 ml bottle)
This opulent dessert wine from Hungary will please both the palate and the intellect. It smells like smoked peach and apricot nectar mixed with just a splash of diesel fuel. (Somehow, it works.) Its flavor is even more intriguing, managing to be simultaneously very sweet and pleasantly bitter--apricot syrup infused with medicinal herbs and cigarette tobacco, which transsubstantiates into sweet pipe tobacco on the improbably long finish. This is Sauternes after reading Kafka.
1. Ehlers Estate 2004 ($34.99/bottle)
With aromas of cassis, black currant, oak, and the slightest suggestion of smoke, this uncomplicated but very tasty medium-full bodied wine offers flavors of currant, tart plum, and oak, with a light herbal note on the finish. I want to drink this with a gourmet hamburger.
2. Robert Craig Affinity 2003 ($44.99/bottle)
Wonderful, enchanting aromas of dark berries, clove, cinnamon, and toasty oak gives way to flavors of tart raspberry fruit, oak, clove, and spice.
3. Whitehall Lane 2004 ($43.99/bottle)
Despite my comments about terroir above, this wine's nose stood out as different from the others, showing more cherry and adding a cedary layer to the more expected oak aromas (see also #5 below). It offers flavors of blackberry, oak, and a hint of cocoa, with firm tannins emerging on the finish, suggesting a need for longer aging. It's good now, but it will be better in two or three years.
4.Schweiger 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
Cassis, oak, and red licorice aromas lay the groundwork for flavors of blackberry, black currant, black pepper, and coffee, all rounded out by toasty oak. Full-bodied, this wine's plush mouthfeel mitigates the drying tannins on the finish.
5. Ghost Block 2004 ($59.99/bottle)
With ripe jammy fruit, green pepper, and a touch of smoke on the nose, this wine smells as much like an Argentinian carmenère as a Napa cab and, so, is one of two wines whose aromas don't fit this lineup's standard profile (see also #3, above). But with flavors of concentrated dark berry fruit, coca-cola, cinnamon, and fig, who cares? This is a big, rich, new-world wine, and I like it.
6. Fisher Coach Insignia 2003 ($71.99/bottle)
The berry and oak aromas of this wine are so concentrated and rich that they suggest a mixture of black cherry and cream sodas. The flavor reveals dark berry fruit that is very ripe without being sweet or cloying, followed by a hint of bitter herbs on the finish. The real strength of this wine, however, is its combination of plush mouthfeel--seamless red velvet--with surprising but well-balanced acidity. It simply screams for a rich slab of prime rib. Red velvet? Prime rib? Christmas, anyone?
7. Robert Mondavi Reserve 2004 ($125.99/bottle)
Very expressive nose of rich, concentrated cassis, vanilla, spice, and molasses cookie. Ripe cassis and berry fruit is well-balanced with candied spice and a hint of tar, all set against firm but integrated tannins. Oak is present but restrained. This wine is fantastic now; in five years it will be stunning. Don't forget the steak when you pop this knockout.
8. Tokaj Kereskedohaz Tokaji Aszu 2001 4 puttonyos (26.99/500 ml bottle)
This opulent dessert wine from Hungary will please both the palate and the intellect. It smells like smoked peach and apricot nectar mixed with just a splash of diesel fuel. (Somehow, it works.) Its flavor is even more intriguing, managing to be simultaneously very sweet and pleasantly bitter--apricot syrup infused with medicinal herbs and cigarette tobacco, which transsubstantiates into sweet pipe tobacco on the improbably long finish. This is Sauternes after reading Kafka.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
A Good Year
As the book closes on 2007, I spent some time the last few days analyzing the wine tasting "lineup cards" that have been provided every Thursday night this year (except for Thanksgiving), and was surprised myself by just how many great wines have been poured. From a "value" tasting back on the 4th of January through last week's "best of" celebration, over 325 wines have been served on Thursday nights throughout the year, and another 250 or so have been offered on Mondays. That's nearly 600 wines!
The tastings this year fueled several trends at Stimmel's Market; Spanish wines were a big hit, and with over 40 solid wines poured this year, the selection of Spanish reds soared. Our French selection blossomed as well, notably dozens of additions in the areas of Rhone and Bordeaux. California Cabernets, as popular as they were at the beginning of the year, continued to be the ultimate crowd-pleasers (and by the way, don't miss TONIGHT'S great Napa Cab tasting), and good Pinot Noir from California and elsewhere was had by all. Great beers from around the world continued to flow, and we managed to fit in sake, mead, and other assorted goodies in the past 12 months. Next week I'll post my personal favorites of the year.
Stimmel's luckily added Sara Thieman to the wine and beer staff, and we somehow coerced Lance Massey to post his Thursday night tasting notes (which are simply great). As 2008 looms, look for more of the same, as we will continue to scour the world in search of great wines, great bargains, and fun themes for tastings. January will feature a HUGE Rhone tasting, a New World vs. Old World taste-off, more of the Top 100 wines of '07, another great cheese tasting, and the first Stimmel's Market field trip (details coming soon).
All of us here at Stimmel's look forward to seeing all of you in the coming weeks, and wish you the best this holiday season!
Cheers!
Bill Stimmel
The tastings this year fueled several trends at Stimmel's Market; Spanish wines were a big hit, and with over 40 solid wines poured this year, the selection of Spanish reds soared. Our French selection blossomed as well, notably dozens of additions in the areas of Rhone and Bordeaux. California Cabernets, as popular as they were at the beginning of the year, continued to be the ultimate crowd-pleasers (and by the way, don't miss TONIGHT'S great Napa Cab tasting), and good Pinot Noir from California and elsewhere was had by all. Great beers from around the world continued to flow, and we managed to fit in sake, mead, and other assorted goodies in the past 12 months. Next week I'll post my personal favorites of the year.
Stimmel's luckily added Sara Thieman to the wine and beer staff, and we somehow coerced Lance Massey to post his Thursday night tasting notes (which are simply great). As 2008 looms, look for more of the same, as we will continue to scour the world in search of great wines, great bargains, and fun themes for tastings. January will feature a HUGE Rhone tasting, a New World vs. Old World taste-off, more of the Top 100 wines of '07, another great cheese tasting, and the first Stimmel's Market field trip (details coming soon).
All of us here at Stimmel's look forward to seeing all of you in the coming weeks, and wish you the best this holiday season!
Cheers!
Bill Stimmel
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