As much I've been into syrahs lately, I have to admit that cabernet sauvignon is still the one grape that, when it soars to the heights it's capable of, can mesmerize like no other wine, with simultaneous strength, balance, concentration, elegance, and sheer flavor. As (potentially) an "iron fist in a velvet glove," cabernet, when done well, deserves its reputation as the king of grapes.
Now, the notes:
1. Clos du Marquis 2002 (Bordeaux, France; $49.99/bottle)
Still somewhat young at seven years old, this medium-full-bodied Bordeaux (the "second" bottling of Chateau Leoville la Cases) is nevertheless drinking beautifully, with a spicy, earthy nose and gorgeous flavors of black currant, tar, leather, dried leaves, and a hint of wet stone. Balanced and very smooth. Excellent. Rating: 93
2. Cignale 2001 (Tuscany, Italy; $72.99/bottle)
Full-bodied, sweetly ripe, and incredibly sensuous, with almost primordially earthy flavors and aromas of black plum, mushrooms, animal hide, chocolate, and spice. Beautiful. Rating: 94
3. Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington; $34.99/bottle)
The first time I tried this wine (last week) I thought it was lackluster, but it was my first sample of the day, and I didn't go back. This time, with some warm-up samples under my belt, I saw this wine's charms: bright acidity and sweet, jammy plum and rhubarb fruit are laced with rich vanilla and lead to a lively, licorice-tinged finish. A bit one-note, but it's a good note. Rating: 91
4. Schweiger Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Napa; $49.99/bottle)
Full-bodied and very smooth, with black currant, black earth, spice, and tar notes. Ripe, well-integrated tannins and acidity from the cool Spring Mountain fruit lend a hard-to-resist elegance. Drinking beautifully now, but may not hit full stride for another 3-5 years. Rating: 93
5. Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Reserve 2004 (Colchagua, Chile; 16.99/bottle)
Very big, bold, and concentrated, this South American cabernet is not for the faint of heart. Full-bodied, with assertive flavors of blackberry, earthy leather, and (telltale Chilean) baked stuffed bell pepper. A bit rough around the edges, but overall not bad (and a decent value). Rating: 86
6. Vinum Africa 2006 (South Africa; $17.99/bottle)
With a nose of currant, plum, smoke, and pepper, this medium-full-bodied cabernet is super-smoky on the palate, with round but penetrating blackberry fruit and chewy, peppery tannins. Bold, classic South African wine. Think BBQ. Rating: 88
Monday, February 16, 2009
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Tasting Notes (Pick-a-Week Edition: Jan. 8)
I had promised to keep up with recent notes and fill in with backlogged ones as time permits. Well, time permits me to post last Thursday's Rhone notes, but I just realized I forgot to get pictures of the bottles, so I don't remember all the vitals--specific blends/bottlings, vintages, etc.
So as I track them down, here are some notes from the Jan. 8 Aussie tasting. I don't have numerical ratings for them, because I took the notes before I started assigning them. (And, by the way, this was an absolutely exceptional tasting. Not a bad wine in the bunch, and several outstanding ones.)
1. Evans and Tate Chardonnay 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
An interesting and appealing nose of fried apples, smoke, and flint gives way to a rich, creamy, mouthfilling body, with a flash of acidity and stony minerality to provide balance. The finish is long and vibrant. Very nice.
2. Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 1999 ($29.99/bottle)
Yes, it's an Aussie that calls itself syrah instead of shiraz, presumably an homage to shiraz's forerunners in the Rhone. This full-bodied red has a beautiful, complex nose of dark berries, coffee, pepper, leather, graphite, and tree bark, with an intense, peppery kick to the raspberry, leather, and tobacco notes on the palate. Firmly tannic and quite acidic, this wine needs at least 3-5 more years in the bottle. Let's hope the fruit holds out that long, because if it does, this will be breathtaking.
3. Tait Ballbuster 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
Rich, full-bodied, and easy-drinking, with raspberry, blueberry and cola notes, and lots of nice, spicy tar on the back end. This wine nods toward complexity, but it doesn't demand that you think about it--only that you enjoy it. Great value.
4. Kalleske Greenock Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
Rich, ripe, and very smooth, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, raspberry, spice, and tar. Not overly complex, but seamlessly executed, with a very welcome touch of elegance you don't normally find in "big" Aussie shirazes.
5. Massena The 11th Hour Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose on this one is so complex--each time I went back, I got something new--it seems almost a shame to drink it. Until you taste it, that is. Thick, almost chewy, this is nevertheless not your standard fruit bomb, with nice balance and well-integrated flavors of black currant, tar, pepper, and leather and a very long, luxurious finish. Very, very good.
6. Glaetzer Amon-Ra 2005 (no price listed on sheet; high $70's, I think)
A big, big wine, with classic Aussie aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, spice, vanilla, and black olive. This shiraz could have been too rich for its own good, but for a brilliant streak of acidity that gives it a lovely, sprightly quality despite its overall heft. A stellar offering.
So as I track them down, here are some notes from the Jan. 8 Aussie tasting. I don't have numerical ratings for them, because I took the notes before I started assigning them. (And, by the way, this was an absolutely exceptional tasting. Not a bad wine in the bunch, and several outstanding ones.)
1. Evans and Tate Chardonnay 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
An interesting and appealing nose of fried apples, smoke, and flint gives way to a rich, creamy, mouthfilling body, with a flash of acidity and stony minerality to provide balance. The finish is long and vibrant. Very nice.
2. Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 1999 ($29.99/bottle)
Yes, it's an Aussie that calls itself syrah instead of shiraz, presumably an homage to shiraz's forerunners in the Rhone. This full-bodied red has a beautiful, complex nose of dark berries, coffee, pepper, leather, graphite, and tree bark, with an intense, peppery kick to the raspberry, leather, and tobacco notes on the palate. Firmly tannic and quite acidic, this wine needs at least 3-5 more years in the bottle. Let's hope the fruit holds out that long, because if it does, this will be breathtaking.
3. Tait Ballbuster 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
Rich, full-bodied, and easy-drinking, with raspberry, blueberry and cola notes, and lots of nice, spicy tar on the back end. This wine nods toward complexity, but it doesn't demand that you think about it--only that you enjoy it. Great value.
4. Kalleske Greenock Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
Rich, ripe, and very smooth, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, raspberry, spice, and tar. Not overly complex, but seamlessly executed, with a very welcome touch of elegance you don't normally find in "big" Aussie shirazes.
5. Massena The 11th Hour Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose on this one is so complex--each time I went back, I got something new--it seems almost a shame to drink it. Until you taste it, that is. Thick, almost chewy, this is nevertheless not your standard fruit bomb, with nice balance and well-integrated flavors of black currant, tar, pepper, and leather and a very long, luxurious finish. Very, very good.
6. Glaetzer Amon-Ra 2005 (no price listed on sheet; high $70's, I think)
A big, big wine, with classic Aussie aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, spice, vanilla, and black olive. This shiraz could have been too rich for its own good, but for a brilliant streak of acidity that gives it a lovely, sprightly quality despite its overall heft. A stellar offering.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Tasting Notes (Jan 29): Italy
1. La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005
Subtle, with a light-medium body and flavors and aromas of cherry, cola, and tar. Finishes with a nice, if faint, smokiness. Refreshing and crisply acidic--think pizza. Rating: 86
2. Ambra Carmignano 2004
Sweet plum, damp leaves, rose petals, and cocoa define the nose and palate on this medium-bodied, rich, earthy Tuscan red. Tart fruit, full acidity, and moderate tannins make this a food wine (a bit puckery on its own). Try with rich pastas and mushroom dishes. Rating: 88
3. Allegrini Valpollicella 2007
The nose on this red from Northwest Italy is very fruity and grapey, almost Beaujolais Nouveau-like. Thankfully, the palate shows more depth, with bright berry and currant notes and some balancing leather and earthy violet notes emerging on the back end. Rating: 87
4. Planeta Syrah 2005
Dark and spicy, with a fairly complex palate showing black plum, blackberry, graphite, and chocolate notes. More austere and structured than the 2004, with still-assertive tannins. Good personality and staying power. Cellar for 2-4 years and drink over the next six. Rating: 91
5. Casanova di Nori Brunello di Montalcino 2003
This rich, full-bodied Brunello has an almost irresistibly sensuous nose of mushroom, earth, and sweet sandalwood. Ripe black plum fruit and fine tannins provide a sturdy platform for complex and delicate earth, floral, spice, and leather secondary notes. The finish is very long and minty, bordering on eucalyptic. Cellar for 3-5 more years; drink over the next 15. Rating: 94
6. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001
Full-bodied with sharp acidity and bold tannins, with cherry, tobacco, and pencil lead notes barely peeking through a quite muted palate. This wine may be in a temporary "dumb phase," after which it will re-emerge as the beauty it (as a 2001 Barolo) is expected to be. No rating: try again in a year or two.
7. Gancia Mercato d'Asti (NV)
Super-fruity nose, bubble-gum like, with apple and gardenia flavors. Simple, sweet, and bubbly. Drink and forget (but enjoy nonetheless). 84
Subtle, with a light-medium body and flavors and aromas of cherry, cola, and tar. Finishes with a nice, if faint, smokiness. Refreshing and crisply acidic--think pizza. Rating: 86
2. Ambra Carmignano 2004
Sweet plum, damp leaves, rose petals, and cocoa define the nose and palate on this medium-bodied, rich, earthy Tuscan red. Tart fruit, full acidity, and moderate tannins make this a food wine (a bit puckery on its own). Try with rich pastas and mushroom dishes. Rating: 88
3. Allegrini Valpollicella 2007
The nose on this red from Northwest Italy is very fruity and grapey, almost Beaujolais Nouveau-like. Thankfully, the palate shows more depth, with bright berry and currant notes and some balancing leather and earthy violet notes emerging on the back end. Rating: 87
4. Planeta Syrah 2005
Dark and spicy, with a fairly complex palate showing black plum, blackberry, graphite, and chocolate notes. More austere and structured than the 2004, with still-assertive tannins. Good personality and staying power. Cellar for 2-4 years and drink over the next six. Rating: 91
5. Casanova di Nori Brunello di Montalcino 2003
This rich, full-bodied Brunello has an almost irresistibly sensuous nose of mushroom, earth, and sweet sandalwood. Ripe black plum fruit and fine tannins provide a sturdy platform for complex and delicate earth, floral, spice, and leather secondary notes. The finish is very long and minty, bordering on eucalyptic. Cellar for 3-5 more years; drink over the next 15. Rating: 94
6. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001
Full-bodied with sharp acidity and bold tannins, with cherry, tobacco, and pencil lead notes barely peeking through a quite muted palate. This wine may be in a temporary "dumb phase," after which it will re-emerge as the beauty it (as a 2001 Barolo) is expected to be. No rating: try again in a year or two.
7. Gancia Mercato d'Asti (NV)
Super-fruity nose, bubble-gum like, with apple and gardenia flavors. Simple, sweet, and bubbly. Drink and forget (but enjoy nonetheless). 84
Monday, January 26, 2009
Playing Catch-Up with Pinots
As I work to make up ground on my embarrassing backlog of posts, I'll start in the near past and work my way back. That way, the newer posts will feature wines that, if you were at the tasting, will still be reasonably fresh in your mind.
I'll start with last Thursday's pinot noir tasting, which was an absolute delight. If you know me, you know how I feel about the Sideways-inspired pinot craze. But there are lots of damn good ones out there--several of which were poured this night. A few were even priced reasonably. (Will wonders never cease?)
Also, I'm experimenting with a 100 pt. scale numerical rating system. I started doing it for myself as a way to help me better access my memories and experiences of the wines, and I thought I'd include those ratings here to see how they float. Just remember, though--one person's 85 may be another's 92. If you find yourself over time agreeing with my assessments, then you can rely all you want on my numbers. If you have a harder time identifying with my descriptions and ratings, then you should probably try the wines for yourself.
Now, the notes:
1. Chandon Brut NV ($24.99/bottle)
This is a basic, serviceable Champagne-style sparkler. Better than anything you'll get at most New Years' parties, though not as good as what you might expect for $25. For the money, I'd go with a Cava (Spain) or a Prosecco (Italy). Still, not bad. Rating: 83
2. Labaume Mercurey 1er Cru 2002 ($39.99/bottle)
Smooth and light-bodied, this Burgundy shows pure but lean, tart black cherry fruit with earthy, forest-floor secondary notes. Would be a beautiful wine, but ultimately the fruit is just too thin. Rating: 85
3. Tohu Marlborough 2004 ($24.99/bottle)
This is 2/3 of a beautiful wine: enchanting nose, gorgeous flavors, and no finish. Cherry, cola, cedar sawdust, and earth infuse this refined, medium-bodied, aromatic pinot. For food pairing, think cedar plank roasted salmon or duck stuffed with wild cherries. Rating: 91
4. Styring Signature 2005 ($26.99/bottle)
The beautiful, seductive, Old-World-style nose on this pinot suggests crushed violets, graphite, and musky earth. On the full side of medium-bodied and very smooth, with a solid core of acidity to keep the ripe fruit and deep, rich earthiness on their feet. Finishes with cherry and black licorice. Rating: 92
5. Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
This wine's nose is rich and dark, with beautiful if subtle nuances of earth, grapefruit, and medicinal herbs. Super complex and almost mesmerizingly smooth, the palate is a riot of perfectly-poised oppositions: bitter but sweet, brooding but upbeat, darkly rich but light on its feet. It's like great literature in a glass. Rating: 94
6. Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast 2006 ($69.99/bottle)
Unbelievably smooth, this wine features fine, ripe tannins to go with the standard bolt of acidity. The result is an uncommonly-structured, age-worthy pinot (5-7 yrs.) with indulgent aromas and flavors of cherry, fresh strawberry, sweet vanilla, cinnamon, and something like tree bark. Less challenging to the senses than the Au Bon Climat, this pinot is expertly executed and (almost) too easy to love. Rating: 94
I'll start with last Thursday's pinot noir tasting, which was an absolute delight. If you know me, you know how I feel about the Sideways-inspired pinot craze. But there are lots of damn good ones out there--several of which were poured this night. A few were even priced reasonably. (Will wonders never cease?)
Also, I'm experimenting with a 100 pt. scale numerical rating system. I started doing it for myself as a way to help me better access my memories and experiences of the wines, and I thought I'd include those ratings here to see how they float. Just remember, though--one person's 85 may be another's 92. If you find yourself over time agreeing with my assessments, then you can rely all you want on my numbers. If you have a harder time identifying with my descriptions and ratings, then you should probably try the wines for yourself.
Now, the notes:
1. Chandon Brut NV ($24.99/bottle)
This is a basic, serviceable Champagne-style sparkler. Better than anything you'll get at most New Years' parties, though not as good as what you might expect for $25. For the money, I'd go with a Cava (Spain) or a Prosecco (Italy). Still, not bad. Rating: 83
2. Labaume Mercurey 1er Cru 2002 ($39.99/bottle)
Smooth and light-bodied, this Burgundy shows pure but lean, tart black cherry fruit with earthy, forest-floor secondary notes. Would be a beautiful wine, but ultimately the fruit is just too thin. Rating: 85
3. Tohu Marlborough 2004 ($24.99/bottle)
This is 2/3 of a beautiful wine: enchanting nose, gorgeous flavors, and no finish. Cherry, cola, cedar sawdust, and earth infuse this refined, medium-bodied, aromatic pinot. For food pairing, think cedar plank roasted salmon or duck stuffed with wild cherries. Rating: 91
4. Styring Signature 2005 ($26.99/bottle)
The beautiful, seductive, Old-World-style nose on this pinot suggests crushed violets, graphite, and musky earth. On the full side of medium-bodied and very smooth, with a solid core of acidity to keep the ripe fruit and deep, rich earthiness on their feet. Finishes with cherry and black licorice. Rating: 92
5. Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
This wine's nose is rich and dark, with beautiful if subtle nuances of earth, grapefruit, and medicinal herbs. Super complex and almost mesmerizingly smooth, the palate is a riot of perfectly-poised oppositions: bitter but sweet, brooding but upbeat, darkly rich but light on its feet. It's like great literature in a glass. Rating: 94
6. Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast 2006 ($69.99/bottle)
Unbelievably smooth, this wine features fine, ripe tannins to go with the standard bolt of acidity. The result is an uncommonly-structured, age-worthy pinot (5-7 yrs.) with indulgent aromas and flavors of cherry, fresh strawberry, sweet vanilla, cinnamon, and something like tree bark. Less challenging to the senses than the Au Bon Climat, this pinot is expertly executed and (almost) too easy to love. Rating: 94
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
The Best of 2008
OK, I'm refreshed. After eight months, I suppose it's time to start posting again, and what better time to re-engage than now? I was extremely lucky to taste hundreds of good wines in 2008 (and a few stinkers), but the double bakers' dozen below represents my top 26 wines of the year. These are the wines that are the most memorable, and are all wines that I personally rated as 92+ scores. Without further ado (ahem, drum roll please...):
26. Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2006 - I enjoyed this rich, fruit-forward Pinot at the winery in Oregon on a perfectly chilly and blustery day in late September. The spicy cherry cola flavors were intense. A fabulous wine for the price.
25. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 - Full-bodied, with gobs of ripe fruit, good acidity and black pepper to keep it honest. Hedonistic to the extreme.
24. Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva White Rioja 1981 - A 27-year-old White Rioja makes the list you ask? Well, for the lucky few who tried this at one of the slowest tastings of the year, it was savory with soft fruit and even some acidity left. Bizarre, memorable, and downright surprisingly good.
23. Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2005 - The second of three Oregon Pinot Noirs on the list, this is one beauty of a wine.
22. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 - There is a reason why the 2005 Bordeaux vintage has been hailed as the best of my lifetime, and this youngster offered a glimpse into a very bright future. Tight, tannic and likely 10+ years away from drinking well, this still offered an amazingly silky mouthfeel with just a skosh of fruit hiding in the background. Check back in 2018, and this might wind up being the very best wine on this list.
21. Owen Roe Cabernet Franc Rosa Mystica 2006 - This completely redefined what I thought Cab Franc could be. Beautiful soft fruit with floral notes and a wonderful mouthfeel. Wish I had more.
20. Chateau de Serame 2005 - The best value wine of the year, hands down. For less than $20, it offered a boatload of tar complexity with good, dark fruit. Outstanding stuff.
19. Luca Pinot Noir 2005 - Another game-changer. If someone had told me that one of the very best bottles of Pinot Noir that I'd try would come from the home of Malbec, I would have chuckled. Then, I would have laughed some more. Well, this is a serious Pinot from Argentina that sports purity of fruit and an elegant mouthfeel reminiscent of the likes of Sea Smoke.
18. Chateau d'Yquem 2001 - I must be doing something right, when a Wine Spectator 100-point classic dessert wine is only my 4th favorite sweet wine of the year.
17. Bergstrom Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2006 - After double-checking my notes, I think this was the best Oregon Pinot that I had the pleasure to try in 2008. Everything you'd expect with a super-silky mouthfeel.
16. Massena The Howling Dog 2005 - After drinking (and enjoying) dozens of great Australian wines in 2007, I severely cut back my Aussie intake in '08. Still, this Petite Sirah was a monster with oodles of dark fruit, spice and tar. Delicious.
15. Louis Guntrum Trockenbeerenauslese 1994 - This German dessert wine confirmed what I had expected: Higher-end TBA's are worth seeking out and rival the best dessert wines in the world. Sweet apple and citrus are brushed back by amazing acidity here. Truly a party in your mouth.
14. Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill Estate 2005 - One of my personal tasting trends that seemed to take center stage this past year was a deep passion for tar. Yes, for some reason I have found that red wines with dark rich fruit and a splash of tarry goodness render me weak-kneed and vulnerable. This was one of those wines....
....and this takes us up to our top 13 wines of the year. The best bakers dozen that money can buy:
13. Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2000 - I had this all the way back on January 3rd, 2008 and it was an absolute revelation. Sure, it's sweet, but it's also laced with a myriad of flavors including a blast of tobacco. Unbelievably complex and thought-provoking.
12. El Nido Clio 2005 - I don't think I had a new-world red last year that did a better job of juggling intense, ripe fruit and sweet vanilla oak quite like this one did. Hedonistic, delicious and bordering on shameful.
11. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1988 - Another great learning experience. I never knew that a 20-year-old Hermitage could taste so bright and fresh, and be so drinkable. Class dismissed.
10. Fattoria Della Vitae Brunello di Montalcino 1997 - This outstanding Brunello was overshadowed by my favorite wine of the year, which was consumed at the same tasting. After re-reading my tasting notes though, this was a solid top-10 wine itself. Waves of milk chocolate and tar keep coming at you, surfing on a beautiful mouthfeel. Awesome stuff.
9. D.R. Stephens Cabernet Sauvignon Moose Valley 2004 - Unbelievably complex, yet full-bodied and bursting with ripe fruit. A stellar wine, and the best modern California Cab I had in 2008.
8. Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee Premier Cru 2004 - One of the most vexing wines of the year. When I first tasted this White Burgundy with Sara at a July trade show in Columbus, we both were floored by the bacon fat nose and explosion of smoky fruit on the palate *from a Chardonnay *. At that moment, and it was early enough in the tasting that I knew my palate was still fresh, I proclaimed it the best dry white wine I'd ever tried. Fast forward a month when we poured it at the market, and it didn't show anything, was even a tad boring, and you can understand my conundrum. Well, I know what I tasted at the show, and Sara has my back on this. It was crazy good.
7. Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001 - I read somewhere that a sweet spot for CdP can be somewhere around 7 years. Well, I had this wine twice in 2008, and while slightly better the first time in September, it was fantastic both times. Just a perfect balance of red berries, meat, olives and crushed rocks. One of the best Chateauneufs I've ever had, if not THE best.
6. Ridge Montebello 1992 - This is the one California wine that I've tried through the years that I believe stands up to the aging potential of many top Bordeaux wines from France. Black currant and lead pencil show the way for a terrific wine that still has several years of life left.
5. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2005 - Another revelation. This was my first White Hermitage, and I luckily started at the top. Oily and peppery and so complex, if I had closed my eyes I never would have thought this was a white wine. Powerful.
4. Rosenblum Kick Ranch Reserve Syrah 2005 - Like an ultra-rich Cote-Rotie. Rich and almost gooey, yet not cloying. This is a bowl of fresh dark berries with a couple slices of smoked bacon floating on a bed of heavy cream. My most hedonistic wine of the year.
3. Cayuse En Chamberlin Syrah 2004 - I believe that Washington has one of the brightest futures of any wine region in the world. I also believe that Cayuse is one of the 10 finest wineries on the planet, and this Syrah was the most complex red wine that I tried all year. A medley of smoked meats dominates the nose, and the palate reveals over a dozen flavors to process. Not everyone who tried this wine last February liked it, as the smoky, meaty character might have been off-putting, but it was a near-perfect experience for me.
2. Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2002 - This list was basically set, until I had the opportunity to try this with Lance and Mike a couple days before the new year, and the rest is history. The best dessert wine I've ever had? Check. Sweet melon and honeysuckle flavors replaced by an incredibly fresh, zesty lemon flavor on the finish? Check. A finish that lasts forever? Check. Lush, silky mouthfeel? Check. This was simply an amazing experience.
1. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1989 - Despite having a boatload of outstanding wines the past few years, I think I was still waiting for that moment to happen. The moment when I tried a wine and suddenly felt justified spending $1,000 or more on a bottle. That moment when I knew what the experts were talking about when mentioning truly classic, life-changing wines. That moment when I'd sip a wine and remember it for the rest of my life. Well, that moment came last Spring as I sipped my first taste of the '89 Lalande, and as quickly as it hit my tongue the wine melted away. To say this wine had a great mouthfeel is the understatement of the year. Lance described it as "hot fat", and I'll always remember the incredulous look on his face when he first sipped it, not to mention the little dance May performed when she had a taste. It was a classic, life-changing wine.
26. Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2006 - I enjoyed this rich, fruit-forward Pinot at the winery in Oregon on a perfectly chilly and blustery day in late September. The spicy cherry cola flavors were intense. A fabulous wine for the price.
25. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 - Full-bodied, with gobs of ripe fruit, good acidity and black pepper to keep it honest. Hedonistic to the extreme.
24. Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva White Rioja 1981 - A 27-year-old White Rioja makes the list you ask? Well, for the lucky few who tried this at one of the slowest tastings of the year, it was savory with soft fruit and even some acidity left. Bizarre, memorable, and downright surprisingly good.
23. Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2005 - The second of three Oregon Pinot Noirs on the list, this is one beauty of a wine.
22. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 - There is a reason why the 2005 Bordeaux vintage has been hailed as the best of my lifetime, and this youngster offered a glimpse into a very bright future. Tight, tannic and likely 10+ years away from drinking well, this still offered an amazingly silky mouthfeel with just a skosh of fruit hiding in the background. Check back in 2018, and this might wind up being the very best wine on this list.
21. Owen Roe Cabernet Franc Rosa Mystica 2006 - This completely redefined what I thought Cab Franc could be. Beautiful soft fruit with floral notes and a wonderful mouthfeel. Wish I had more.
20. Chateau de Serame 2005 - The best value wine of the year, hands down. For less than $20, it offered a boatload of tar complexity with good, dark fruit. Outstanding stuff.
19. Luca Pinot Noir 2005 - Another game-changer. If someone had told me that one of the very best bottles of Pinot Noir that I'd try would come from the home of Malbec, I would have chuckled. Then, I would have laughed some more. Well, this is a serious Pinot from Argentina that sports purity of fruit and an elegant mouthfeel reminiscent of the likes of Sea Smoke.
18. Chateau d'Yquem 2001 - I must be doing something right, when a Wine Spectator 100-point classic dessert wine is only my 4th favorite sweet wine of the year.
17. Bergstrom Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2006 - After double-checking my notes, I think this was the best Oregon Pinot that I had the pleasure to try in 2008. Everything you'd expect with a super-silky mouthfeel.
16. Massena The Howling Dog 2005 - After drinking (and enjoying) dozens of great Australian wines in 2007, I severely cut back my Aussie intake in '08. Still, this Petite Sirah was a monster with oodles of dark fruit, spice and tar. Delicious.
15. Louis Guntrum Trockenbeerenauslese 1994 - This German dessert wine confirmed what I had expected: Higher-end TBA's are worth seeking out and rival the best dessert wines in the world. Sweet apple and citrus are brushed back by amazing acidity here. Truly a party in your mouth.
14. Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill Estate 2005 - One of my personal tasting trends that seemed to take center stage this past year was a deep passion for tar. Yes, for some reason I have found that red wines with dark rich fruit and a splash of tarry goodness render me weak-kneed and vulnerable. This was one of those wines....
....and this takes us up to our top 13 wines of the year. The best bakers dozen that money can buy:
13. Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2000 - I had this all the way back on January 3rd, 2008 and it was an absolute revelation. Sure, it's sweet, but it's also laced with a myriad of flavors including a blast of tobacco. Unbelievably complex and thought-provoking.
12. El Nido Clio 2005 - I don't think I had a new-world red last year that did a better job of juggling intense, ripe fruit and sweet vanilla oak quite like this one did. Hedonistic, delicious and bordering on shameful.
11. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1988 - Another great learning experience. I never knew that a 20-year-old Hermitage could taste so bright and fresh, and be so drinkable. Class dismissed.
10. Fattoria Della Vitae Brunello di Montalcino 1997 - This outstanding Brunello was overshadowed by my favorite wine of the year, which was consumed at the same tasting. After re-reading my tasting notes though, this was a solid top-10 wine itself. Waves of milk chocolate and tar keep coming at you, surfing on a beautiful mouthfeel. Awesome stuff.
9. D.R. Stephens Cabernet Sauvignon Moose Valley 2004 - Unbelievably complex, yet full-bodied and bursting with ripe fruit. A stellar wine, and the best modern California Cab I had in 2008.
8. Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee Premier Cru 2004 - One of the most vexing wines of the year. When I first tasted this White Burgundy with Sara at a July trade show in Columbus, we both were floored by the bacon fat nose and explosion of smoky fruit on the palate *from a Chardonnay *. At that moment, and it was early enough in the tasting that I knew my palate was still fresh, I proclaimed it the best dry white wine I'd ever tried. Fast forward a month when we poured it at the market, and it didn't show anything, was even a tad boring, and you can understand my conundrum. Well, I know what I tasted at the show, and Sara has my back on this. It was crazy good.
7. Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001 - I read somewhere that a sweet spot for CdP can be somewhere around 7 years. Well, I had this wine twice in 2008, and while slightly better the first time in September, it was fantastic both times. Just a perfect balance of red berries, meat, olives and crushed rocks. One of the best Chateauneufs I've ever had, if not THE best.
6. Ridge Montebello 1992 - This is the one California wine that I've tried through the years that I believe stands up to the aging potential of many top Bordeaux wines from France. Black currant and lead pencil show the way for a terrific wine that still has several years of life left.
5. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2005 - Another revelation. This was my first White Hermitage, and I luckily started at the top. Oily and peppery and so complex, if I had closed my eyes I never would have thought this was a white wine. Powerful.
4. Rosenblum Kick Ranch Reserve Syrah 2005 - Like an ultra-rich Cote-Rotie. Rich and almost gooey, yet not cloying. This is a bowl of fresh dark berries with a couple slices of smoked bacon floating on a bed of heavy cream. My most hedonistic wine of the year.
3. Cayuse En Chamberlin Syrah 2004 - I believe that Washington has one of the brightest futures of any wine region in the world. I also believe that Cayuse is one of the 10 finest wineries on the planet, and this Syrah was the most complex red wine that I tried all year. A medley of smoked meats dominates the nose, and the palate reveals over a dozen flavors to process. Not everyone who tried this wine last February liked it, as the smoky, meaty character might have been off-putting, but it was a near-perfect experience for me.
2. Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2002 - This list was basically set, until I had the opportunity to try this with Lance and Mike a couple days before the new year, and the rest is history. The best dessert wine I've ever had? Check. Sweet melon and honeysuckle flavors replaced by an incredibly fresh, zesty lemon flavor on the finish? Check. A finish that lasts forever? Check. Lush, silky mouthfeel? Check. This was simply an amazing experience.
1. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1989 - Despite having a boatload of outstanding wines the past few years, I think I was still waiting for that moment to happen. The moment when I tried a wine and suddenly felt justified spending $1,000 or more on a bottle. That moment when I knew what the experts were talking about when mentioning truly classic, life-changing wines. That moment when I'd sip a wine and remember it for the rest of my life. Well, that moment came last Spring as I sipped my first taste of the '89 Lalande, and as quickly as it hit my tongue the wine melted away. To say this wine had a great mouthfeel is the understatement of the year. Lance described it as "hot fat", and I'll always remember the incredulous look on his face when he first sipped it, not to mention the little dance May performed when she had a taste. It was a classic, life-changing wine.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Tasting Notes: Merlots and Merlot-Based Blends
I don't have the exact date for this tasting, but I think it was Nov. 6. I've skipped over the blind tasting, because my notes are designed to help me identify the wines, not describe them. They're less detailed and more idiosyncratic than my normal notes, and they wouldn't make for good reading--assuming any of my notes ever do.
(Yes, I've posted my blind tasting notes in the past, but this time I really focused on identifying the wines and not on taking descriptive notes. Maybe that's why I landed Stimmels' first ever perfect score! Does this mean you can trust my palate? No, probably not--at least, not beyond my ability to tell a gossamer pinot noir from an oozing shiraz, and maybe a level or two in between. If anything, it just means I'm a decent test taker.)
Anyway, on to the Merlot notes:
1. Chateau Haut Surget Lalande de Pomerol 2003
Simple, decent, medium-bodied red, with aromas and flavors of plum, cranberry, and leathery earth. Moderate tannins.
2. Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2003
A touch tart, a touch tannic, this red would work well with a fatty dish like prime rib or even a richly-sauced salmon filet. Dark and earthy, with blackberry, spice, and tobacco flavors, and a nice crescendo of vanilla on the finish.
3. Dunham Cellars Trutina 2005
Definitely a new-world merlot, this red from Washington state is full-bodied and sweetly ripe--at first. An enticing nose of blackberry, black earth, spicy tar, and violets gives way to similar flavors, laced with orange-spiced dark chocolate and a finish suggestive of citrus essence. There is some undesirable tartness on the mid-palate, though. Like it. Don't love it.
4. Kathryn Kennedy Lateral 2003
There's a flavor in wines that I have trouble putting into words, so I just call it "Napa," since it's present in so many Napa wines. The closest I can come to describing it is to call it a cross between herbaceousness and earthiness--with maybe some aromatic spice thrown in. Anyway, this exceptionally smooth, medium-full-bodied merlot has "Napa" in spades, not to mention some deliciously rich cassis, spice, and eucalyptus notes. Very good.
5. Flora Springs Napa Valley Merlot 2002
This merlot, at six years old, seems to have begun its descent. The fruit is beginning to taste just a touch raisiny, but there are still some very nice pepper and spice notes. Don't wait to drink this one--maybe with a nice lamb tagine, for which the raisin-y note could in fact be an asset.
(Yes, I've posted my blind tasting notes in the past, but this time I really focused on identifying the wines and not on taking descriptive notes. Maybe that's why I landed Stimmels' first ever perfect score! Does this mean you can trust my palate? No, probably not--at least, not beyond my ability to tell a gossamer pinot noir from an oozing shiraz, and maybe a level or two in between. If anything, it just means I'm a decent test taker.)
Anyway, on to the Merlot notes:
1. Chateau Haut Surget Lalande de Pomerol 2003
Simple, decent, medium-bodied red, with aromas and flavors of plum, cranberry, and leathery earth. Moderate tannins.
2. Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2003
A touch tart, a touch tannic, this red would work well with a fatty dish like prime rib or even a richly-sauced salmon filet. Dark and earthy, with blackberry, spice, and tobacco flavors, and a nice crescendo of vanilla on the finish.
3. Dunham Cellars Trutina 2005
Definitely a new-world merlot, this red from Washington state is full-bodied and sweetly ripe--at first. An enticing nose of blackberry, black earth, spicy tar, and violets gives way to similar flavors, laced with orange-spiced dark chocolate and a finish suggestive of citrus essence. There is some undesirable tartness on the mid-palate, though. Like it. Don't love it.
4. Kathryn Kennedy Lateral 2003
There's a flavor in wines that I have trouble putting into words, so I just call it "Napa," since it's present in so many Napa wines. The closest I can come to describing it is to call it a cross between herbaceousness and earthiness--with maybe some aromatic spice thrown in. Anyway, this exceptionally smooth, medium-full-bodied merlot has "Napa" in spades, not to mention some deliciously rich cassis, spice, and eucalyptus notes. Very good.
5. Flora Springs Napa Valley Merlot 2002
This merlot, at six years old, seems to have begun its descent. The fruit is beginning to taste just a touch raisiny, but there are still some very nice pepper and spice notes. Don't wait to drink this one--maybe with a nice lamb tagine, for which the raisin-y note could in fact be an asset.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Tasting Notes (Oct. 16): Wicked, Good Wines
Tonight's theme of "good vs. evil" gives new meaning to the term "wicked good." Here are the notes:
1. Chateau les Religieuses 2003
This is a very solid, though not mind-blowing, right-bank Bordeaux. It boasts a medium-full body, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, spice, damp leaves, and toast. The fruit is slightly tart, but the finish is long and tinged with an intriguing iron note.
2. Redemption Zin 2005
This is a big, juicy, full-bodied wine, with peppery, wild berry aromas and flavors of sweet cherry, rhubarb, and tobacco--all sheathed in rich vanilla. Think sweet barbecue.
3. Grant Burge "Holy Trinity" 2002
This smooth, full-bodied, ultra-sensuous wine comes at you with unmistakable aromas of dark berries, musk, and soy sauce. Sweetly ripe, it boasts big raspberry fruit, lots of pepper, and--as the nose forecasts--distinct notes of musk and soy. I have to admit that this almost over-ripe style of Aussie wine is not my favorite, but it's well done within that style. Try it for yourself.
4. Two Hands Angels Share Shiraz 2004
Most wine websites put an apostrophe before the "s" in "Angels," but there's not one on the label. Personally, I like the ambiguity of the apostrophe-less version. I also like this wine. It's classic shiraz: Full-bodied, with blackberry, pepper, spice, olive, and vanilla notes. Predictable? Perhaps. Beautifully executed? Absolutely.
5. "Evil" Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
This inexpensive cabernet ($10-12, if memory serves) boasts simple, juicy flavors and aromas of sweet cranberry with a touch of leather. Moderate tannins provide some grip and hold up the fruit nicely. Better than the 2006 vintage. A good value.
6. Trio Infernal Cuvee No. 1/3 2004
This Spanish blend of Garnacha (Grenache) and Carignan is full-bodied and smooth, with rich, enticing aromas and flavors of black cherry, licorice, tar, and toasty oak. Assertive tannins are still young; this wine drinks very well now but will be even better in 2-3 years.
7. Four Vines "The Heretic" Petit Syrah
This wine is rich, plump, and juicy, with easy-to-love flavors of dark berries, chocolate, spice, and cedar. Very nice.
1. Chateau les Religieuses 2003
This is a very solid, though not mind-blowing, right-bank Bordeaux. It boasts a medium-full body, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, spice, damp leaves, and toast. The fruit is slightly tart, but the finish is long and tinged with an intriguing iron note.
2. Redemption Zin 2005
This is a big, juicy, full-bodied wine, with peppery, wild berry aromas and flavors of sweet cherry, rhubarb, and tobacco--all sheathed in rich vanilla. Think sweet barbecue.
3. Grant Burge "Holy Trinity" 2002
This smooth, full-bodied, ultra-sensuous wine comes at you with unmistakable aromas of dark berries, musk, and soy sauce. Sweetly ripe, it boasts big raspberry fruit, lots of pepper, and--as the nose forecasts--distinct notes of musk and soy. I have to admit that this almost over-ripe style of Aussie wine is not my favorite, but it's well done within that style. Try it for yourself.
4. Two Hands Angels Share Shiraz 2004
Most wine websites put an apostrophe before the "s" in "Angels," but there's not one on the label. Personally, I like the ambiguity of the apostrophe-less version. I also like this wine. It's classic shiraz: Full-bodied, with blackberry, pepper, spice, olive, and vanilla notes. Predictable? Perhaps. Beautifully executed? Absolutely.
5. "Evil" Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
This inexpensive cabernet ($10-12, if memory serves) boasts simple, juicy flavors and aromas of sweet cranberry with a touch of leather. Moderate tannins provide some grip and hold up the fruit nicely. Better than the 2006 vintage. A good value.
6. Trio Infernal Cuvee No. 1/3 2004
This Spanish blend of Garnacha (Grenache) and Carignan is full-bodied and smooth, with rich, enticing aromas and flavors of black cherry, licorice, tar, and toasty oak. Assertive tannins are still young; this wine drinks very well now but will be even better in 2-3 years.
7. Four Vines "The Heretic" Petit Syrah
This wine is rich, plump, and juicy, with easy-to-love flavors of dark berries, chocolate, spice, and cedar. Very nice.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Tasting Notes (Oct. 23): 7 (Awsome) Varietals
I haven't been to a tasting in two weeks, but I suppose that's a good thing: no more of my notes have been piling up as my semester has spun wildly out of control in terms of workload. (In case you don't know and do care, for my day job I'm a professor, and this year I've had to jump over the many, high, work-multiplying hurdles that constitute the "third year review" for professors who--you guessed it--are in their third year). That's mostly over, I'm happy to say, and so, despite having many other irons in the proverbial fire, I should be able to find time to start catching up on my tasting notes.
And, for those of you who may have allowed yourselves to imagine that it is mere laziness on my part that has kept me from posting, you must also know that--my ego being what it is--I would never allow something as petty as being inhumanly busy keep me from bragging to the world that I nailed the last blind tasting, with a perfect 7 of 7 correct. But even that post is going to have to wait. It's not that I have any great reverence for putting my notes up in the order I took them, though that's been my M.O. It's just that, tonight, I'm at home, and the only set of tasting notes I have handy are the following ones.
But one last, quick word before I get to the notes. If you read this blog even remotely regularly, then you know two things about my notes. First, you know that, as a rule, I look for positive things to say about the wines I review. Second, you know that, on a rare occasion, saying something positive about a wine, or even offering an indifferent report of its qualities, is not possible. Why do I bring this up? Because this lineup was one of those amazing ones where every wine was at least good, with a few being real knockouts. I wouldn't want you to think my excessive praise of tonight's wines was feigned. It isn't. They're that good.
And now, the notes:
1. Zind Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim Heimbourg 2006 ($42.99/bottle)
The snappy acidity and taut minerality of this medium-bodied riesling hold fresh flavors of fuji apple and key lime in wonderfully poised, delicate suspension. The incredibly long, stony finish tastes like rain on limestone. Try this with boiled German-style sausages.
2. Hitchin Post "Highlighner" Pinot Noir 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Good acidity bouoys the rich, dark notes of black cherry, earth, and black licorice that define the palate. Medium-bodied and beautifully silky, with a finish that hints at medicinal herb. Very good.
3. Olek-Mery Chinon Cuvee des Tireaux 2004 ($26.99/bottle)
This medium- to full-bodied, cab franc-based red from France's Loire Valley boasts flavors and aromas of cherry and dark berry, roasted poblano peppers, and a veritable cloud of dust. This is a mood wine--something to break out if you're feeling austere and Old World. Or if you're having roast pork tacos.
4. Novelty Hill Merlot Columbia Valley 2004 ($23.99/bottle)
This is a really nice merlot. Chocolatey, spicey, and even a bit leathery, it is rich and mouthfilling. The long finish is all blueberry until, at about 45 seconds, the mineral notes begin to come out.
5. Paraiso Syrah "Wedding Hill" 2001 (47.99/bottle)
With aromas of dark berries, smoke, leather, and animal, and full-bodied flavors of sweet berry fruit, pepper, leather, and grilled meat, this syrah is every bit as rugged and masculine as its French counterpart, Hermitage. For a food pairing, think spit-roasted boar. Or, if you're a normal human, grilled steak. A great wine.
6. Rosenblum Zinfandel "Snows Lake Vineyard" 2005 ($37.99/bottle)
Rich, but not over the top, with ripe, rich aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, chocolate, spice, and bramble. Nicely balanced for a big zin.
7. Soos Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2002 ($34.99/bottle)
This cab is nice, spicy, and big, with a rich nose of currant, plum, choclate, and oak, and flavors of sweet currant, plum, spice, leather, and chocolate. Lush and tasty.
And, for those of you who may have allowed yourselves to imagine that it is mere laziness on my part that has kept me from posting, you must also know that--my ego being what it is--I would never allow something as petty as being inhumanly busy keep me from bragging to the world that I nailed the last blind tasting, with a perfect 7 of 7 correct. But even that post is going to have to wait. It's not that I have any great reverence for putting my notes up in the order I took them, though that's been my M.O. It's just that, tonight, I'm at home, and the only set of tasting notes I have handy are the following ones.
But one last, quick word before I get to the notes. If you read this blog even remotely regularly, then you know two things about my notes. First, you know that, as a rule, I look for positive things to say about the wines I review. Second, you know that, on a rare occasion, saying something positive about a wine, or even offering an indifferent report of its qualities, is not possible. Why do I bring this up? Because this lineup was one of those amazing ones where every wine was at least good, with a few being real knockouts. I wouldn't want you to think my excessive praise of tonight's wines was feigned. It isn't. They're that good.
And now, the notes:
1. Zind Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim Heimbourg 2006 ($42.99/bottle)
The snappy acidity and taut minerality of this medium-bodied riesling hold fresh flavors of fuji apple and key lime in wonderfully poised, delicate suspension. The incredibly long, stony finish tastes like rain on limestone. Try this with boiled German-style sausages.
2. Hitchin Post "Highlighner" Pinot Noir 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Good acidity bouoys the rich, dark notes of black cherry, earth, and black licorice that define the palate. Medium-bodied and beautifully silky, with a finish that hints at medicinal herb. Very good.
3. Olek-Mery Chinon Cuvee des Tireaux 2004 ($26.99/bottle)
This medium- to full-bodied, cab franc-based red from France's Loire Valley boasts flavors and aromas of cherry and dark berry, roasted poblano peppers, and a veritable cloud of dust. This is a mood wine--something to break out if you're feeling austere and Old World. Or if you're having roast pork tacos.
4. Novelty Hill Merlot Columbia Valley 2004 ($23.99/bottle)
This is a really nice merlot. Chocolatey, spicey, and even a bit leathery, it is rich and mouthfilling. The long finish is all blueberry until, at about 45 seconds, the mineral notes begin to come out.
5. Paraiso Syrah "Wedding Hill" 2001 (47.99/bottle)
With aromas of dark berries, smoke, leather, and animal, and full-bodied flavors of sweet berry fruit, pepper, leather, and grilled meat, this syrah is every bit as rugged and masculine as its French counterpart, Hermitage. For a food pairing, think spit-roasted boar. Or, if you're a normal human, grilled steak. A great wine.
6. Rosenblum Zinfandel "Snows Lake Vineyard" 2005 ($37.99/bottle)
Rich, but not over the top, with ripe, rich aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, chocolate, spice, and bramble. Nicely balanced for a big zin.
7. Soos Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2002 ($34.99/bottle)
This cab is nice, spicy, and big, with a rich nose of currant, plum, choclate, and oak, and flavors of sweet currant, plum, spice, leather, and chocolate. Lush and tasty.
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Tasting Notes (Oct. 2): By the Numbers
All the wines for this tasting have numbers in their names. I give it a "10."
The notes:
1.Vinos de Terrunos "Siete" 2007 (Spain; $11.99/bottle)
This wine can be described as tinto fino flavors on a pinot noir frame. Light- to medium-bodied, with bright, uplifting acidity, it offers flavors of black cherry and tar, with leather and menthol emerging on the finish. This would be nice with grilled or roasted salmon. Good value.
2. Four Graces Pinot Noir 2006 (Oregon; $29.99/bottle)
This tasty pinot noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley is light- to medium-bodied, with deep, earthy, smoky nuances providing welcome depth to the bright fruit and buoyant acidity.
3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (California; $21.99/bottle)
This full-bodied brute does indeed have a sophisticated side, with a complex array of vanilla, black pepper, toasted spice, and chocolate adding nuance to the rich black raspberry fruit. One of my favorite zins.
4. Clos de los Siete 2005 (Argentina; $17.99/bottle)
This wine looks almost black in the glass, and the sight foreshadows what's to come: blackberry, black plum, tar, earth, and leather flavors infuse this medium-to-full-bodied red. Well-integrated tannins provide structure and grip. This could stay in the bottle another 2-3 years, but it's drinking nicely now. A great value.
5. L'Ecole No. 41 Apogee 2003 (Washington; $45.99/bottle)
This velvety, full-bodied Bordeaux style blend from Washington's Walla Walla valley is suffused with deeply aromatic, enticing sweet currant, cherry, leather, oak, and cinnamon flavors and aromas. The finish has a wonderful eucalyptus (eucalyptic?) quality. Very nice.
6. Hollywood and Vine 2480 2004 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This beautiful, full-bodied cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley was the star of tonight's lineup. It is satiny smooth, with bold, fine tannins and big but elegant notes of blackberry, oak, leather, spicy pepper, and coffee. Drinking beautifully now, it will nevertheless continue to harmonize for 5-7 or more years.
7. Marquis Phillips 9 2004 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
Marquis Phillips is one of those producers, like "R" Wines, whose wines always seem to outperform their price point. And, since M.P.'s wines tend to be more expensive than "R" Wines,' that's saying something. The "9" doesn't disappoint, with beautifully balanced flavors and aromas of blackberry, damp black earth, wet stone, black olive, and peppery spice. As you might expect, this shiraz is superripe and very full-bodied.
The notes:
1.Vinos de Terrunos "Siete" 2007 (Spain; $11.99/bottle)
This wine can be described as tinto fino flavors on a pinot noir frame. Light- to medium-bodied, with bright, uplifting acidity, it offers flavors of black cherry and tar, with leather and menthol emerging on the finish. This would be nice with grilled or roasted salmon. Good value.
2. Four Graces Pinot Noir 2006 (Oregon; $29.99/bottle)
This tasty pinot noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley is light- to medium-bodied, with deep, earthy, smoky nuances providing welcome depth to the bright fruit and buoyant acidity.
3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (California; $21.99/bottle)
This full-bodied brute does indeed have a sophisticated side, with a complex array of vanilla, black pepper, toasted spice, and chocolate adding nuance to the rich black raspberry fruit. One of my favorite zins.
4. Clos de los Siete 2005 (Argentina; $17.99/bottle)
This wine looks almost black in the glass, and the sight foreshadows what's to come: blackberry, black plum, tar, earth, and leather flavors infuse this medium-to-full-bodied red. Well-integrated tannins provide structure and grip. This could stay in the bottle another 2-3 years, but it's drinking nicely now. A great value.
5. L'Ecole No. 41 Apogee 2003 (Washington; $45.99/bottle)
This velvety, full-bodied Bordeaux style blend from Washington's Walla Walla valley is suffused with deeply aromatic, enticing sweet currant, cherry, leather, oak, and cinnamon flavors and aromas. The finish has a wonderful eucalyptus (eucalyptic?) quality. Very nice.
6. Hollywood and Vine 2480 2004 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This beautiful, full-bodied cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley was the star of tonight's lineup. It is satiny smooth, with bold, fine tannins and big but elegant notes of blackberry, oak, leather, spicy pepper, and coffee. Drinking beautifully now, it will nevertheless continue to harmonize for 5-7 or more years.
7. Marquis Phillips 9 2004 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
Marquis Phillips is one of those producers, like "R" Wines, whose wines always seem to outperform their price point. And, since M.P.'s wines tend to be more expensive than "R" Wines,' that's saying something. The "9" doesn't disappoint, with beautifully balanced flavors and aromas of blackberry, damp black earth, wet stone, black olive, and peppery spice. As you might expect, this shiraz is superripe and very full-bodied.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Tasting Notes (Sept. 25): Italian Wines and Lurker Call-Out
You know how I feel about Italian wines. Enough said.
So, in lieu of a prefatory post, I'll just note that, not having access to any diagnostics (I am not this blog's owner, only a contributor), I have a hard time knowing who reads this blog. Beyond a few close friends who tell me from time to time that they caught a post, that is. So, if you're a "lurker" (as I am on several other blogs!), here's your chance--no, your charge: let me know you're here. It doesn't need to be anything profound. Even a simple "Hi!" would be fine with me. And if you just stumbled by here for the first time, we'd love to hear from you, too.
Now, the notes:
1. Torricino Greco di Tufo 2007 ($19.99/bottle)
This was my first wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape, and I liked it. Straw yellow, it reminds me of a cross between a crisp Chardonnay and a flinty Sauvignon Blanc. Light and zippy with acidity, it has clean citrus and tropical fruit notes, racy minerality, and a touch of nuttiness.
2. La Carraia Fobiano 1999 ($34.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautifully earthy, spicy nose, with tart, crisp black cherry, earth, and tobacco notes on the palate. It's not overly complex, but what's there is very good and would be even better with a rich, creamy cheese.
3. La Mozza Aragone 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
(Note: I did not read the Wine Advocate tasting notes, which also describe the wine as "brooding," until after I wrote my own. I almost never do.) This dark ruby red sangiovese-based blend has a dark, brooding nose of berries, violets, and (oddly) something like burnt sulfur. This same burnt note comes through on the palate, though the fruit, which is tart but ripe, shines. My notes are surprisingly consistent with Wine Advocate's, which note "scorched earth" instead of burnt sulfur. The only difference is that the WA critic (Galloni?) liked the scorchiness, and I didn't. I'd like to re-taste this one to see if my notes are consistent.
4. Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo 2003 ($42.99/bottle)
This is a beautiful Chianti. Medium-bodied and smooth as a just-waxed Ferrari, it boasts flavors of sweetly ripe black cherry, new leather, and spice, with a dark chocolate note emerging on the finish. Fine tannins and moderate acidity provide ample structure to hold the flavors up. This would be an extremely versatile food wine.
5. Villalta Amarone Classico "I Comunali" 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
So dark it's almost opaque, this Amarone nevertheless shows restraint on the palate, with full-bodied but not over-the-top flavors of plum, dark berries, white pepper, dust, and a slight meatiness. The long finish reveals a wonderful walnut note. Very nice, but will be even better in 3-5 years.
6. Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
Noting a deep brownish red, almost rusty color, I thought maybe this eight-year-old Brunello--a region whose best wines are legendary for their aging potential--could already be over the hill. But the aromas and flavors quickly set me straight. Ultra-smooth despite still-young tannins, it offers lively and well-harmonized berry, tar, oak, and violet flavors and aromas. This is one for the cellar, but in as few as 3-5 years it will be fantastic.
7. Giacomo Ascheri Barolo Podere di Sorano 2001 (59.99/bottle)
Neither the nose nor the palate gives up much, with some faint floral and oak notes, but the palate does have a richness and depth that suggests this one shouldn't be counted out just yet. It will only be after the vault of tannin finally opens (it's on a time-release, of course) that we'll know more. Try again in 3-5 years.
So, in lieu of a prefatory post, I'll just note that, not having access to any diagnostics (I am not this blog's owner, only a contributor), I have a hard time knowing who reads this blog. Beyond a few close friends who tell me from time to time that they caught a post, that is. So, if you're a "lurker" (as I am on several other blogs!), here's your chance--no, your charge: let me know you're here. It doesn't need to be anything profound. Even a simple "Hi!" would be fine with me. And if you just stumbled by here for the first time, we'd love to hear from you, too.
Now, the notes:
1. Torricino Greco di Tufo 2007 ($19.99/bottle)
This was my first wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape, and I liked it. Straw yellow, it reminds me of a cross between a crisp Chardonnay and a flinty Sauvignon Blanc. Light and zippy with acidity, it has clean citrus and tropical fruit notes, racy minerality, and a touch of nuttiness.
2. La Carraia Fobiano 1999 ($34.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautifully earthy, spicy nose, with tart, crisp black cherry, earth, and tobacco notes on the palate. It's not overly complex, but what's there is very good and would be even better with a rich, creamy cheese.
3. La Mozza Aragone 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
(Note: I did not read the Wine Advocate tasting notes, which also describe the wine as "brooding," until after I wrote my own. I almost never do.) This dark ruby red sangiovese-based blend has a dark, brooding nose of berries, violets, and (oddly) something like burnt sulfur. This same burnt note comes through on the palate, though the fruit, which is tart but ripe, shines. My notes are surprisingly consistent with Wine Advocate's, which note "scorched earth" instead of burnt sulfur. The only difference is that the WA critic (Galloni?) liked the scorchiness, and I didn't. I'd like to re-taste this one to see if my notes are consistent.
4. Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo 2003 ($42.99/bottle)
This is a beautiful Chianti. Medium-bodied and smooth as a just-waxed Ferrari, it boasts flavors of sweetly ripe black cherry, new leather, and spice, with a dark chocolate note emerging on the finish. Fine tannins and moderate acidity provide ample structure to hold the flavors up. This would be an extremely versatile food wine.
5. Villalta Amarone Classico "I Comunali" 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
So dark it's almost opaque, this Amarone nevertheless shows restraint on the palate, with full-bodied but not over-the-top flavors of plum, dark berries, white pepper, dust, and a slight meatiness. The long finish reveals a wonderful walnut note. Very nice, but will be even better in 3-5 years.
6. Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
Noting a deep brownish red, almost rusty color, I thought maybe this eight-year-old Brunello--a region whose best wines are legendary for their aging potential--could already be over the hill. But the aromas and flavors quickly set me straight. Ultra-smooth despite still-young tannins, it offers lively and well-harmonized berry, tar, oak, and violet flavors and aromas. This is one for the cellar, but in as few as 3-5 years it will be fantastic.
7. Giacomo Ascheri Barolo Podere di Sorano 2001 (59.99/bottle)
Neither the nose nor the palate gives up much, with some faint floral and oak notes, but the palate does have a richness and depth that suggests this one shouldn't be counted out just yet. It will only be after the vault of tannin finally opens (it's on a time-release, of course) that we'll know more. Try again in 3-5 years.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Tasting Notes (Sept. 18): Que Syrah Syrah
Since I've gone to the more stripped down tasting notes for the time being (minus lengthy introductory comments), I've also decided to use the always clever Stimmel's titles to head my posts. (Where, before, I would come up with my own titles for entries.) This week's is one of my favorites.
The notes (as the title for the tasting reflects, all wines except the first one are composed entirely, or nearly entirely, of syrah):
1. Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005 (France/Southern Rhone; $89.99/bottle)
This incredibly sensual, medium-bodied blend of Roussanne and white Grenache is dense with aromas and flavors of lemon curd, almonds, and bitter essential oils and has a long, nutty, minerally finish. Try this with meaty fish, like swordfish.
2. E. Guigal St. Joseph 2003 (France/Northern Rhone; $26.99/bottle)
This St. Joseph has a big nose of blackberries, lavender scrub, and earthy barnyard notes. On the full side of medium-bodied, it boasts spicy, peppery, and mineral-tinged flavors, with the scrub from the nose re-emerging (and the pepper intensifying) on the finish. Though the fruit could be just a bit fuller, this is a nice way into a good Northern Rhone wine for comparatively little money.
3. Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley 2002 (Washington; $31.99/bottle)
This syrah from Washington is the very epitome of a "New World" wine: full-bodied, rich, and boldly-flavored, with ripe plum, baking spice, and vanilla aromas and flavors. Still, these notes are nicely integrated, giving the wine a sense of balance that keeps it from going over the top. Nice.
4. Finca Sandoval 2002 (Spain/Castilla-La Mancha; $36.99/bottle)
The nose on this syrah blend from Spain's Castilla-La Mancha region (think Don Quixote) tells you right away that you're in for a special treat, with waves of plum, smoke, licorice, and earth emanating from the glass. On the palate, it is full-bodied and smooth as worn flannel, with flavors of sweet plum, earth, and rich tobacco. The long, hedonistic finish finds the licorice from the nose re-emerging. A beautiful wine.
5. Red Car Shake Rattlle and Roll 2005 (California; $59.99/bottle)
Another gorgeous syrah--what a lineup! The Red Car is truly the best of both worlds--Old and New, that is. Rich and full-bodied, it boasts flavors of ripe cherries, plums, and chocolate, with Cote-Rotie-like nuances of smoke and cured meats. The finish is long and--considering the ripeness of the fruit--wonderfully vibrant. Outstanding.
6. Oliver Hill Jimmy Section Shiraz 2005 (Australia/McLaren Vale; $35.99/bottle)
I've been a fan of the Jimmy Section for a while now, and what's not to like? Aussie-big and fruity, the nose offers black and blue berries, oak, and baking spices, with the faintest hint of black olive (but not the overripe kind one often finds in high end Aussie Shirazes). Flavors of dark fruit, licorice, and pepper are assertive but nicely balanced, making this very full-bodied, massively structured shiraz a joy to drink now, though it will continue to evolve in the bottle for up to 10 more years. The only off note: despite the wine's massive proportions, the 15% + alcohol can create a little heat, especially if the wine isn't kept on the cooler side of room temperature.
The notes (as the title for the tasting reflects, all wines except the first one are composed entirely, or nearly entirely, of syrah):
1. Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005 (France/Southern Rhone; $89.99/bottle)
This incredibly sensual, medium-bodied blend of Roussanne and white Grenache is dense with aromas and flavors of lemon curd, almonds, and bitter essential oils and has a long, nutty, minerally finish. Try this with meaty fish, like swordfish.
2. E. Guigal St. Joseph 2003 (France/Northern Rhone; $26.99/bottle)
This St. Joseph has a big nose of blackberries, lavender scrub, and earthy barnyard notes. On the full side of medium-bodied, it boasts spicy, peppery, and mineral-tinged flavors, with the scrub from the nose re-emerging (and the pepper intensifying) on the finish. Though the fruit could be just a bit fuller, this is a nice way into a good Northern Rhone wine for comparatively little money.
3. Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley 2002 (Washington; $31.99/bottle)
This syrah from Washington is the very epitome of a "New World" wine: full-bodied, rich, and boldly-flavored, with ripe plum, baking spice, and vanilla aromas and flavors. Still, these notes are nicely integrated, giving the wine a sense of balance that keeps it from going over the top. Nice.
4. Finca Sandoval 2002 (Spain/Castilla-La Mancha; $36.99/bottle)
The nose on this syrah blend from Spain's Castilla-La Mancha region (think Don Quixote) tells you right away that you're in for a special treat, with waves of plum, smoke, licorice, and earth emanating from the glass. On the palate, it is full-bodied and smooth as worn flannel, with flavors of sweet plum, earth, and rich tobacco. The long, hedonistic finish finds the licorice from the nose re-emerging. A beautiful wine.
5. Red Car Shake Rattlle and Roll 2005 (California; $59.99/bottle)
Another gorgeous syrah--what a lineup! The Red Car is truly the best of both worlds--Old and New, that is. Rich and full-bodied, it boasts flavors of ripe cherries, plums, and chocolate, with Cote-Rotie-like nuances of smoke and cured meats. The finish is long and--considering the ripeness of the fruit--wonderfully vibrant. Outstanding.
6. Oliver Hill Jimmy Section Shiraz 2005 (Australia/McLaren Vale; $35.99/bottle)
I've been a fan of the Jimmy Section for a while now, and what's not to like? Aussie-big and fruity, the nose offers black and blue berries, oak, and baking spices, with the faintest hint of black olive (but not the overripe kind one often finds in high end Aussie Shirazes). Flavors of dark fruit, licorice, and pepper are assertive but nicely balanced, making this very full-bodied, massively structured shiraz a joy to drink now, though it will continue to evolve in the bottle for up to 10 more years. The only off note: despite the wine's massive proportions, the 15% + alcohol can create a little heat, especially if the wine isn't kept on the cooler side of room temperature.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Tasting Notes (Sept. 11): Around the World (Abridged Version)
While normally I try to include some kind of introductory comments to my tasting notes, there are times during my real job that compel me to streamline wherever I can, including the Stimmel's blog. So, for a few weeks anyway, I'm going with straight notes, free from introductory commentary. (My sense is that the notes are what people come for anyway--or, at least, that's my hope.)
1. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 (France/Bordeaux; $130.99/bottle)
This is one of those wines you're excited to drink even though you know it's a crime to do it a mere three years after the vintage. Still, this very nice Bordeaux has a beautiful nose of currant, dried cranberry, leather, earth, and a touch of gravel. Despite being a young, tannic beast, it still gives hints of what it will be in 8-10 years: a dark, rich, earthy, silky beauty of a wine. Definitely one for the cellar.
2. Mateic EQ Syrah 2005 (Chile; $29.99/bottle)
This syrah immediately puts one in mind of the wines of the northern Rhone (though at a fraction of the cost of most good ones): medium-bodied, with meaty, peppery, and dusty berry and mineral flavors, it simply screams for a nice roasted leg of lamb, or even beef kebabs.
3. Scala Dei Cartoixa 2001 (Spain; $59.99/bottle)
This one is an all-around beautiful wine. It starts with aromas blackberry, licorice, coffee, and a hint of fragrant toasted almond. Medium-full bodied, with a wonderfully satiny mouthfeel, with enticingly earthy and aromatic flavors of dark, spicy fruit, with a bolt of anise up front and a dash of new leather on the finish. Very good now (think steak), but should continue to harmonize for another 3-5 years.
4. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001 (Italy; $59.99/bottle)
The brownish tint gives this wine away as the consummate old-world red, with a very sensual nose of barnyard, crushed violet, and chocolate, and silky smooth, full bodied flavors of black plum, cedar, tobacco, and a hint of dusty cocoa. Nicely integrated tannins and surprisingly buoyant acidity will give this very nice wine another 2-4 years' cellaring potential, though if it were in my cellar right now, I'd pop it tomorrow with an equally indulgent plate of duck ragout with wild mushrooms.
5. Showket Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This Cab's very ripe, fruity nose is underscored by subtle earthy notes. Full bodied, with nice grip and flavors of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, bramble, and mint. This is a very nice wine.
6. Schild Barossa Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $28.99/bottle)
This is not your run-of-the-mill Aussie Shiraz, with an intensely musky nose and flavors of super-ripe blueberry, black olive, smoke, and musk. While it might not be my first choice for a day-in, day-out quaffer, I have to give it credit for taking a chance and actually being a sensual, even sense-challenging, wine. Definitely one to pop with grilled red meats.
7. Adelsheim Pinot Noir Deglace 2006 (Oregon; $34.99/bottle)
Dessert wines seem to be en vogue right now, so we shouldn't be surprised to see American producers trying them with grapes not normally associated with sweet wines (for another fun example, look for Meeker's Fro-Zin, a Zinfandel-based dessert wine). Such efforts tend to be hit or miss, but this one--while not earth-shattering--is quite nice, with aromas and flavors of baked cherries and enough acidity to keep the whole affair from being too heavy.
1. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 (France/Bordeaux; $130.99/bottle)
This is one of those wines you're excited to drink even though you know it's a crime to do it a mere three years after the vintage. Still, this very nice Bordeaux has a beautiful nose of currant, dried cranberry, leather, earth, and a touch of gravel. Despite being a young, tannic beast, it still gives hints of what it will be in 8-10 years: a dark, rich, earthy, silky beauty of a wine. Definitely one for the cellar.
2. Mateic EQ Syrah 2005 (Chile; $29.99/bottle)
This syrah immediately puts one in mind of the wines of the northern Rhone (though at a fraction of the cost of most good ones): medium-bodied, with meaty, peppery, and dusty berry and mineral flavors, it simply screams for a nice roasted leg of lamb, or even beef kebabs.
3. Scala Dei Cartoixa 2001 (Spain; $59.99/bottle)
This one is an all-around beautiful wine. It starts with aromas blackberry, licorice, coffee, and a hint of fragrant toasted almond. Medium-full bodied, with a wonderfully satiny mouthfeel, with enticingly earthy and aromatic flavors of dark, spicy fruit, with a bolt of anise up front and a dash of new leather on the finish. Very good now (think steak), but should continue to harmonize for another 3-5 years.
4. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001 (Italy; $59.99/bottle)
The brownish tint gives this wine away as the consummate old-world red, with a very sensual nose of barnyard, crushed violet, and chocolate, and silky smooth, full bodied flavors of black plum, cedar, tobacco, and a hint of dusty cocoa. Nicely integrated tannins and surprisingly buoyant acidity will give this very nice wine another 2-4 years' cellaring potential, though if it were in my cellar right now, I'd pop it tomorrow with an equally indulgent plate of duck ragout with wild mushrooms.
5. Showket Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This Cab's very ripe, fruity nose is underscored by subtle earthy notes. Full bodied, with nice grip and flavors of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, bramble, and mint. This is a very nice wine.
6. Schild Barossa Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $28.99/bottle)
This is not your run-of-the-mill Aussie Shiraz, with an intensely musky nose and flavors of super-ripe blueberry, black olive, smoke, and musk. While it might not be my first choice for a day-in, day-out quaffer, I have to give it credit for taking a chance and actually being a sensual, even sense-challenging, wine. Definitely one to pop with grilled red meats.
7. Adelsheim Pinot Noir Deglace 2006 (Oregon; $34.99/bottle)
Dessert wines seem to be en vogue right now, so we shouldn't be surprised to see American producers trying them with grapes not normally associated with sweet wines (for another fun example, look for Meeker's Fro-Zin, a Zinfandel-based dessert wine). Such efforts tend to be hit or miss, but this one--while not earth-shattering--is quite nice, with aromas and flavors of baked cherries and enough acidity to keep the whole affair from being too heavy.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Tasting Notes (Aug. 28): Semantics Edition
Tonight’s tasting theme was “decadence defined.” Now, it just so happens that "decadence" is one of those words I’ve been keeping my eye on. In the last 30 or so years (in other words, since I’ve been old enough to pay attention), there have been a few words whose meanings have changed right before our eyes. Take “literally,” for example. I have always been taught that it meant "actually." But, to a number of people—and it sure seems like that number has been steadily increasing, though I’ll concede that, as I’ve become a more astute observer of language, I may simply notice it more—“literally” is essentially a word that marks an extreme or intense state. So, for example, the statement, “I was so mad I literally hit the roof,” could be taken to mean that you really went on top of your house, made a fist (or perhaps you’re a martial arts, open-hand type), and smacked your shingles. But for most people it just means “I was extremely mad.”
And so it is with “decadence.” At some point during the Reagan ‘80’s (probably about the same point it seemed like a good idea to make the film Wall Street), the meaning of “decadence” shifted from “being in a state of decay, either caused by or symptomized by (or both) conspicuous and extreme excess” (think Roman vomiting troughs and orgiastic parties) to “extremely desirable—due to conspicuous and extreme excess.”
Obviously, it’s this second term that applies to tonight’s tasting. But I can’t help wondering what it says about our culture that conspicuous, extreme excess continues to be considered, almost thirty years after the Reagan era began, a sign of fine living rather than an indication that the whole idea of the rags-to-riches American Dream has jumped the shark.
As for this tasting, what saves it for me in the end is that, despite its title, the wines in the lineup really aren’t decadent so much as they are rich and full-bodied (Ok, the prices may be decadent, but that’s why we have small samples of these wines and then go buy a tasty $9.99 bottle of Chilean Cab Sauv.) The Standish Shiraz comes closest—Wine Advocate calls it “opulent”—though even it cannot touch the outrageously syrupy, oozing nectar that is Mollydooker’s “Carnival of Love.” Talk about decadent. (As I said when I reviewed it, you should try it if you have a chance, but it’s almost too much to take.) In fact, the next closest wine in the lineup to being decadent—the “Clio” from El Nido—is definitely ripe and rich, but it is also so superbly balanced and precisely focused that it does not seem excessive at all when you drink it.
I don’t mean to quibble with Bill about terms: a) it’s his store, and he runs the show, and b) I’m sure the actual name for the theme of the tasting is of exceedingly minor importance compared to the formidable task of assembling such a marvelous lineup of rich, full-bodied wines. Indeed, this post may seem like a lot of energy to devote to something as ho-hum as word choice for a wine tasting theme, and you might even be thinking by now (if you haven’t stopped reading altogether), “Who cares?” I do, for one. Before I was a half-cocked amateur wine critic I was, and am, a professor of rhetoric. It’s in my nature to pay attention to the sometimes extraordinary meanings that inhere in mundane language, as well as to share what I find with others. And, if you have made it this far into this post, then I have done what I set out to do: there’s no way, after today, that you’ll ever hear the word “decadent” again without giving it at least a second thought.
Now, the notes:
1. Merryvale Profile 2002 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine has a great nose, with cassis, baked cherry, leathery spice, and just the right amount of toasty oak. The full-bodied palate reveals young, dark flavors of black cherry, bitter leather, chocolate, and spice with big, scratchy tannins dominating the profile (no pun intended). This is a wine to come back to in 3-5 years to see if it has come into balance, because if it does, it's going to be a knockout.
2. Lagier Meredith Syrah 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
The nose on this mountain-grown Syrah is big and fruity, with ripe plums and berries supporting secondary notes of spice and creamy vanilla. Full-bodied, with wonderfully bright acidity, it offers flavors of dark berries and black pepper with an enticing eucalyptus note on the finish. The tannins are nicely integrated. Try this syrah with grilled meat.
3. Conn Valley Right Bank 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
"Right Bank" refers to the right bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux, where blends tend to be based on Merlot instead of Cabernet Sauvignon. And this wine is surprisingly Bordeaux-like, with earth and leather coming through on the nose and flavors of tart but ripe plum, tobacco, soil, and a hint of black licorice. Full-bodied with soft tannins, this is a beautiful wine that would pair perfectly with lamb or prime rib.
4. El Nido Clio 2005 ($59.99/bottle)
The nose on this very rich Monastrell blend from Jumilla, Spain makes you think it's going to be way over-the-top, even (dare I say?) decadent, with aromas of super-ripe crushed blueberries, vanilla, cream, and toasty spice. Nevertheless, the voluptuous but well-structured palate displays breathtaking balance, even finesse, with an almost refreshingly minty finish that makes you want another sip. You could drink this masterpiece of a wine with food, but why would you want to?
5. The Standish Shiraz 2003 ($79.99/bottle)
This Aussie Shiraz is big, thick and almost over-ripe. The nose offers pronounced aromas of caramelized sugar, smoke, and soft black olives, while the palate shows dark flavors of ripe blackberry, black olive, and a blast of black pepper. This wine is definitely indulgent, and it does a nice job as such, but it would be hard to justify buying a bottle when I know it's in the same price range as D'Arenberg's nearly perfect Dead Arm Shiraz and a number of other stunningly rich and balanced Aussie Shirazes.
6. Caldwell Red Wine 2004 ($104.99/bottle)
This nice, dark, full-bodied red shows flavors and aromas of very ripe, smoky plum, oak, and black olive, with some licorice on the finish.
7. Presidential NV 20-Year Port ($46.99/bottle)
Once you get past the formiddable alcohol (20%), there is a beautifully aromatic and tasty blend of caramel, vanilla, and orange/gran marnier waiting. A definite choice for those NW Ohio winters.
And so it is with “decadence.” At some point during the Reagan ‘80’s (probably about the same point it seemed like a good idea to make the film Wall Street), the meaning of “decadence” shifted from “being in a state of decay, either caused by or symptomized by (or both) conspicuous and extreme excess” (think Roman vomiting troughs and orgiastic parties) to “extremely desirable—due to conspicuous and extreme excess.”
Obviously, it’s this second term that applies to tonight’s tasting. But I can’t help wondering what it says about our culture that conspicuous, extreme excess continues to be considered, almost thirty years after the Reagan era began, a sign of fine living rather than an indication that the whole idea of the rags-to-riches American Dream has jumped the shark.
As for this tasting, what saves it for me in the end is that, despite its title, the wines in the lineup really aren’t decadent so much as they are rich and full-bodied (Ok, the prices may be decadent, but that’s why we have small samples of these wines and then go buy a tasty $9.99 bottle of Chilean Cab Sauv.) The Standish Shiraz comes closest—Wine Advocate calls it “opulent”—though even it cannot touch the outrageously syrupy, oozing nectar that is Mollydooker’s “Carnival of Love.” Talk about decadent. (As I said when I reviewed it, you should try it if you have a chance, but it’s almost too much to take.) In fact, the next closest wine in the lineup to being decadent—the “Clio” from El Nido—is definitely ripe and rich, but it is also so superbly balanced and precisely focused that it does not seem excessive at all when you drink it.
I don’t mean to quibble with Bill about terms: a) it’s his store, and he runs the show, and b) I’m sure the actual name for the theme of the tasting is of exceedingly minor importance compared to the formidable task of assembling such a marvelous lineup of rich, full-bodied wines. Indeed, this post may seem like a lot of energy to devote to something as ho-hum as word choice for a wine tasting theme, and you might even be thinking by now (if you haven’t stopped reading altogether), “Who cares?” I do, for one. Before I was a half-cocked amateur wine critic I was, and am, a professor of rhetoric. It’s in my nature to pay attention to the sometimes extraordinary meanings that inhere in mundane language, as well as to share what I find with others. And, if you have made it this far into this post, then I have done what I set out to do: there’s no way, after today, that you’ll ever hear the word “decadent” again without giving it at least a second thought.
Now, the notes:
1. Merryvale Profile 2002 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine has a great nose, with cassis, baked cherry, leathery spice, and just the right amount of toasty oak. The full-bodied palate reveals young, dark flavors of black cherry, bitter leather, chocolate, and spice with big, scratchy tannins dominating the profile (no pun intended). This is a wine to come back to in 3-5 years to see if it has come into balance, because if it does, it's going to be a knockout.
2. Lagier Meredith Syrah 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
The nose on this mountain-grown Syrah is big and fruity, with ripe plums and berries supporting secondary notes of spice and creamy vanilla. Full-bodied, with wonderfully bright acidity, it offers flavors of dark berries and black pepper with an enticing eucalyptus note on the finish. The tannins are nicely integrated. Try this syrah with grilled meat.
3. Conn Valley Right Bank 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
"Right Bank" refers to the right bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux, where blends tend to be based on Merlot instead of Cabernet Sauvignon. And this wine is surprisingly Bordeaux-like, with earth and leather coming through on the nose and flavors of tart but ripe plum, tobacco, soil, and a hint of black licorice. Full-bodied with soft tannins, this is a beautiful wine that would pair perfectly with lamb or prime rib.
4. El Nido Clio 2005 ($59.99/bottle)
The nose on this very rich Monastrell blend from Jumilla, Spain makes you think it's going to be way over-the-top, even (dare I say?) decadent, with aromas of super-ripe crushed blueberries, vanilla, cream, and toasty spice. Nevertheless, the voluptuous but well-structured palate displays breathtaking balance, even finesse, with an almost refreshingly minty finish that makes you want another sip. You could drink this masterpiece of a wine with food, but why would you want to?
5. The Standish Shiraz 2003 ($79.99/bottle)
This Aussie Shiraz is big, thick and almost over-ripe. The nose offers pronounced aromas of caramelized sugar, smoke, and soft black olives, while the palate shows dark flavors of ripe blackberry, black olive, and a blast of black pepper. This wine is definitely indulgent, and it does a nice job as such, but it would be hard to justify buying a bottle when I know it's in the same price range as D'Arenberg's nearly perfect Dead Arm Shiraz and a number of other stunningly rich and balanced Aussie Shirazes.
6. Caldwell Red Wine 2004 ($104.99/bottle)
This nice, dark, full-bodied red shows flavors and aromas of very ripe, smoky plum, oak, and black olive, with some licorice on the finish.
7. Presidential NV 20-Year Port ($46.99/bottle)
Once you get past the formiddable alcohol (20%), there is a beautifully aromatic and tasty blend of caramel, vanilla, and orange/gran marnier waiting. A definite choice for those NW Ohio winters.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Tasting Notes (July 24): Stag's Leap
While I don't know for sure, I feel safe in saying that this tasting was the most geographically specific one in Stimmels' history. The Stag's Leap American Viticultural Area (AVA) is actually a tiny sub-region inside the already-smallish Napa Valley in California. Located along a short stretch of the Vaca mountain range, which forms the eastern border of the valley, Stag's Leap is home to some of my favorite wineries anywhere, not the least of which is the legendary Stag's Leap Wine Cellars--whose flagship "S.L.V." Cabernet Sauvignon stunned the wine world in 1976 by besting a slew of top French Bordeauxs in the infmaous "judgment of Paris." Unfortunately, the S.L.V. couldn't be a part of this lineup, and my other favorite Stag's Leap Cab, from Regusci, had been poured too recently to be included. Still, this was a great night of wine, and I have to say that, while the Shafer was clearly the best wine overall, the Stags' Leap Winery's (note: not the same as the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, but rather a different winery altogether) Petit Syrah (normally spelled Petit Sirah) was a brilliant offering as well.
Now the notes:
1. Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
If memory serves, this was the only wine in the lineup not at least partially sourced from Stag's Leap (which, as I understand it, is too cool to produce great Sauv Blancs). The classic nose shows citrus, grass, and a subtle chive note. Light-medium bodied, with a pleasingly bold shock of acidity animating fresh, clean citrus and herbal flavors. The finish has an interesting minerally tinge. I tasted several Sauv Blancs in Napa Valley recently, and many of them were flabby and uninteresting. Not this one. Seek it out.
2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2006 ($33.99/bottle)
This medium bodied Chard is made in a crisp style, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, minerals, and smoke. A light touch of butter adds depth without weighing the wine down. Perfect for Lobster--which I know you (yeah, you) eat all the time!
3. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
SLWC is known for its Merlot, so I was excited to try this one. The nose doesn't disappoint, with a complex mix of spicy plum, oak, pencil lead, and dry brown dirt. Flavors of tart but ripe plums, tar and earth, however, are virtually sandblasted away by scratchy tannins. If the fruit holds out, this could still be a nice wine in a few years. Let's hope. Try this one in 2-5 years to see if it's more accessible.
4. Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
This full bodied Cab has a rich, plump nose of cassis, leather, cinnamon, and violets. With a beautiful, velvety mouthfeel, it offers flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa, and black licorice. Dark, rich, and big, with medium-grained tannins providing plenty of "grip." Nice.
5. Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.99/bottle)
Stag's Leap reds often hint of the Old World, with subtle earthy notes not common in the rest of the valley. The Silverado Cab was the one in tonight's lineup that came closest to fitting this mold, with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoke. On the palate it is full bodied and ripe, with flavors of sweet berries, peppery spice, and a little bit of tobacco. The big fruit and assertive tannins should harmonize in 5-7 years. I can't wait.
6. Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five 2004 ($75.99/bottle)
Clearly the star in this lineup, the Shafer is a beautiful, full bodied wine. The nose shows cassis, black earth, and violets, while the dark, rich, chocolatey palate is buttressed by firm but fine tannins. The finish is wonderfully dark and bitter. As I tasted this wine, I wanted an equally rich prime rib to go with it.
7. Stag's Leap Winery Petit Syrah 2005 ($38.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, jammy nose with notes of smoke, menthol, and caramel. Very full bodied, this wine is big, tannic, and rich, with flavors of dark fruits and smoke and a big, licoricey finish. A real eye-opener. What to pair it with? Grilled steak, grilled steak, grilled steak. Or maybe grilled steak.
Now the notes:
1. Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
If memory serves, this was the only wine in the lineup not at least partially sourced from Stag's Leap (which, as I understand it, is too cool to produce great Sauv Blancs). The classic nose shows citrus, grass, and a subtle chive note. Light-medium bodied, with a pleasingly bold shock of acidity animating fresh, clean citrus and herbal flavors. The finish has an interesting minerally tinge. I tasted several Sauv Blancs in Napa Valley recently, and many of them were flabby and uninteresting. Not this one. Seek it out.
2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2006 ($33.99/bottle)
This medium bodied Chard is made in a crisp style, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, minerals, and smoke. A light touch of butter adds depth without weighing the wine down. Perfect for Lobster--which I know you (yeah, you) eat all the time!
3. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
SLWC is known for its Merlot, so I was excited to try this one. The nose doesn't disappoint, with a complex mix of spicy plum, oak, pencil lead, and dry brown dirt. Flavors of tart but ripe plums, tar and earth, however, are virtually sandblasted away by scratchy tannins. If the fruit holds out, this could still be a nice wine in a few years. Let's hope. Try this one in 2-5 years to see if it's more accessible.
4. Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
This full bodied Cab has a rich, plump nose of cassis, leather, cinnamon, and violets. With a beautiful, velvety mouthfeel, it offers flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa, and black licorice. Dark, rich, and big, with medium-grained tannins providing plenty of "grip." Nice.
5. Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.99/bottle)
Stag's Leap reds often hint of the Old World, with subtle earthy notes not common in the rest of the valley. The Silverado Cab was the one in tonight's lineup that came closest to fitting this mold, with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoke. On the palate it is full bodied and ripe, with flavors of sweet berries, peppery spice, and a little bit of tobacco. The big fruit and assertive tannins should harmonize in 5-7 years. I can't wait.
6. Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five 2004 ($75.99/bottle)
Clearly the star in this lineup, the Shafer is a beautiful, full bodied wine. The nose shows cassis, black earth, and violets, while the dark, rich, chocolatey palate is buttressed by firm but fine tannins. The finish is wonderfully dark and bitter. As I tasted this wine, I wanted an equally rich prime rib to go with it.
7. Stag's Leap Winery Petit Syrah 2005 ($38.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, jammy nose with notes of smoke, menthol, and caramel. Very full bodied, this wine is big, tannic, and rich, with flavors of dark fruits and smoke and a big, licoricey finish. A real eye-opener. What to pair it with? Grilled steak, grilled steak, grilled steak. Or maybe grilled steak.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Tasting Notes (July 17): Spanish Wines Are Good
More and more, I'm convinced that Spain is the way to go for value wines. Whether $10, $20, $30 or more, it's a good bet that whatever Spanish wine you're drinking will outperform its price point. That's not to say that Spain isn't also turning out mediocre and poor wines. Every wine-producing region in the world turns out lackluster wines. But Spain consistently produces some amazing surprises. Just look at Vina Alarba, Las Rocas, and Altos de Luzon, all of which provide exceptional quality at a very affordable price, and--in the slightly more expensive range--Bodega Numanthia, whose "Termes" can be a revelation at less than $40.
Not only that, but Spain also has the added distinction of producing, with equal aplomb, both "Old World" and "New World" styles of wines, where "Old World" denotes wines of finesse and subtlety, often with elegant but not overpowering fruit and distinctly earthy notes, and "New World" denotes more thick, juicy, fruit-forward wines with real oomph. (Think about the difference between a sauce based on a flavorful broth versus a sauce based on a heavily-reduced stock, and you'll have something of an idea: both are extremely satisfying, but they have very different textures and viscosities.)
So, if you're looking for a good value and are tired of the same old Aussie fruit bombs (Milton Park--I'm looking at you), you could do a lot worse than to take a vinous trip to Spain.
Now, the notes:
1. Adegas Morgadio Albarino 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This lightly creamy white has a nose of apples and what I can only describe as chicken searing in olive oil. Medium-bodied, it boasts flavors of apple, bitter herbs, and a crescendo of white pepper from the back end to the finish. Try pairing this pleasant wine with light, flaky fish or scallops.
Not only that, but Spain also has the added distinction of producing, with equal aplomb, both "Old World" and "New World" styles of wines, where "Old World" denotes wines of finesse and subtlety, often with elegant but not overpowering fruit and distinctly earthy notes, and "New World" denotes more thick, juicy, fruit-forward wines with real oomph. (Think about the difference between a sauce based on a flavorful broth versus a sauce based on a heavily-reduced stock, and you'll have something of an idea: both are extremely satisfying, but they have very different textures and viscosities.)
So, if you're looking for a good value and are tired of the same old Aussie fruit bombs (Milton Park--I'm looking at you), you could do a lot worse than to take a vinous trip to Spain.
Now, the notes:
1. Adegas Morgadio Albarino 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This lightly creamy white has a nose of apples and what I can only describe as chicken searing in olive oil. Medium-bodied, it boasts flavors of apple, bitter herbs, and a crescendo of white pepper from the back end to the finish. Try pairing this pleasant wine with light, flaky fish or scallops.
2. Vinicola del Prioriat "Onix" 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
This wine is always hailed as a "best value," and when I tried it a year ago, I didn't see what the fuss was about. Now, with another year of bottle age, its firm tannins have softened a bit and the flavors have begun to blossom. Both the nose and the palate show rich, meaty blackberry, vanilla, and mineral notes. Full-bodied and smooth, though it could still use another year or two to fully come into its own.
3. Can Blau 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
A great value, this medium-full-bodied red has a rich nose of plums, violets, and baking spices. Dark, earthy flavors of spices, wet leaves, and smoked bologna are buoyed by vibrant acidity. Try this one with cured sausage.
4. San Vicente Rioja 2001 ($39.99/bottle)
This tempranillo-based wine has a fantastic, super-earthy nose of worn leather, wet soil, and graphite. Sweetly ripe, with a smooth, medium body and flavors of double-shot mocha, black cherry, and graphite. Still-gripping tannins and sprightly acidity will allow this wine to age gracefully for 3-5 or more years. Think beef stew with lots of mushrooms for a food pairing.
5. Mas Doix Salanques 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is sharp and tarry, with additional wildflower and raspberry cola notes. Lively acidity and cola notes on the palate put one in mind of Pinot Noir, but then a torrent of meaty and tarry flavors whisk you quickly back to Priorat.
6. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
This smooth, rich, medium-full-bodied garnacha (grenache) has a nose of crushed black and blue berries, vanilla, clove, and cinnamon and flavors of blueberry, vanilla, spice, and pepper notes. Reminds me of a slightly lighter-bodied Aussie Shiraz.
7. Lese Eres Vinyes Velles Priorat 2001 ($64.99/bottle)
The nose on this red offers bold wild berry, meat, and violet notes. On the palate it is brambly and spicy, with dark, tarry notes and black cherry and cranberry fruit. Finishes fresh and tart. Would be ideal for bolognese or other red meat sauce dishes.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Tasting Notes (July 10): Call Me Wopner
This theme-based tasting was called "Stimmel's Court," and, res ipsa loquitur, the wines speak for themselves:
1. "The Consultant" Chardonnay 2005 (California; <$20, I think)
Perhaps enrolled in the vitis protection program, this medium-bodied Chardonnay does not show up on the tasting sheet and seems intentionally secretive of its origins. (Even a Google search only turns up the name of the Chardonnay and an "importer"--of this California wine, no less--called Billington Wines.) What I do know is that it has aromas and flavors of apples, butter, smoke, and minerals, with a streak of bitter anise running through the finish. Not bad at all.
2. Shinas Estate "The Innocent" Viognier 2007 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
If you're not used to drinking Viognier, you might call this wine "stinky." I prefer to call it aromatic, with notes of cantaloupe, peaches, and musk on the nose. Medium-full-bodied, this oh-so-lightly sweet white shines with flavors of sweet peach and pear and a white pepper-laced finish. Lively acidity keeps the wine seeming fresh despite its viscosity. Really nice.
3. Shinas Estate "The Guilty" Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
Another nice wine from Shinas, this is pretty textbook Aussie Shiraz, with blueberry, pepper, spice, and tar aromas and flavors. The only departure is a hint of bramble as well, giving it a slightly wild, adventurous edge.
4. Shinas Estate "The Verdict" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
This full-bodied red has a lovely nose of black currants, earth, violets, and just a tiny hint of barnyard. On the palate, sweetly ripe black currant starts the show, only to give way to a disappointing greenish/woody note. After a couple sips, however, this off green wood taste morphed into a more pleasant hoisin-like quality (for me, anyway; who knows what it may do for you). An interesting wine, though the other Shinas Estate offerings in this lineup outshine it by a considerable margin.
5. Orin Swift "The Prisoner" 2005 (California/Napa Valley; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend is a perennial favorite at Stimmel's tastings, and with good reason. A tantalizing nose of blackberry, black plum, bramble, and pepper gives way to a gripping, full-bodied palate, offering flavors of sweet blackberry liquer, peppery spice, mocha, and red and black licorice. "The Prisoner" is big and rich but exquisitely balanced. I love this wine.
6. Ahnfeldt "Quid Pro Quo" Blend 2003 (California/Napa Valley; $69.99/bottle)
This full-bodied, Merlot-based, Bordeaux-style blend has a nice nose of plums, flowers, earth, and leathery spice. On the palate, it shows very nice flavors of black currant, spice, licorice, and a hint of mushroom-y earth. Gripping but fine tannins and good fruit mean this wine will age gracefully for at least another five years.
7. Chateau Les Justices Sauternes 2003 (France; $52.99/bottle)
This may not be the steel trap of a Sauternes that the 2001 Chateau D'Yquem is, but it has its charms nonetheless. Aromas and flavors of pineapple, lemon curd, and smoky jasmine vibrate on a taught string of acidity, with an intriguing menthol note emerging on the long finish.
1. "The Consultant" Chardonnay 2005 (California; <$20, I think)
Perhaps enrolled in the vitis protection program, this medium-bodied Chardonnay does not show up on the tasting sheet and seems intentionally secretive of its origins. (Even a Google search only turns up the name of the Chardonnay and an "importer"--of this California wine, no less--called Billington Wines.) What I do know is that it has aromas and flavors of apples, butter, smoke, and minerals, with a streak of bitter anise running through the finish. Not bad at all.
2. Shinas Estate "The Innocent" Viognier 2007 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
If you're not used to drinking Viognier, you might call this wine "stinky." I prefer to call it aromatic, with notes of cantaloupe, peaches, and musk on the nose. Medium-full-bodied, this oh-so-lightly sweet white shines with flavors of sweet peach and pear and a white pepper-laced finish. Lively acidity keeps the wine seeming fresh despite its viscosity. Really nice.
3. Shinas Estate "The Guilty" Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
Another nice wine from Shinas, this is pretty textbook Aussie Shiraz, with blueberry, pepper, spice, and tar aromas and flavors. The only departure is a hint of bramble as well, giving it a slightly wild, adventurous edge.
4. Shinas Estate "The Verdict" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
This full-bodied red has a lovely nose of black currants, earth, violets, and just a tiny hint of barnyard. On the palate, sweetly ripe black currant starts the show, only to give way to a disappointing greenish/woody note. After a couple sips, however, this off green wood taste morphed into a more pleasant hoisin-like quality (for me, anyway; who knows what it may do for you). An interesting wine, though the other Shinas Estate offerings in this lineup outshine it by a considerable margin.
5. Orin Swift "The Prisoner" 2005 (California/Napa Valley; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend is a perennial favorite at Stimmel's tastings, and with good reason. A tantalizing nose of blackberry, black plum, bramble, and pepper gives way to a gripping, full-bodied palate, offering flavors of sweet blackberry liquer, peppery spice, mocha, and red and black licorice. "The Prisoner" is big and rich but exquisitely balanced. I love this wine.
6. Ahnfeldt "Quid Pro Quo" Blend 2003 (California/Napa Valley; $69.99/bottle)
This full-bodied, Merlot-based, Bordeaux-style blend has a nice nose of plums, flowers, earth, and leathery spice. On the palate, it shows very nice flavors of black currant, spice, licorice, and a hint of mushroom-y earth. Gripping but fine tannins and good fruit mean this wine will age gracefully for at least another five years.
7. Chateau Les Justices Sauternes 2003 (France; $52.99/bottle)
This may not be the steel trap of a Sauternes that the 2001 Chateau D'Yquem is, but it has its charms nonetheless. Aromas and flavors of pineapple, lemon curd, and smoky jasmine vibrate on a taught string of acidity, with an intriguing menthol note emerging on the long finish.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Tasting Notes (July 3): Franc the Tanc
In the movie Old School, Frank "The Tank" Ricard is in the inner sanctum of cool, being one of the three people responsible for founding the fraternity of misfits whose antics drive the film's plot (and most of the gags). Nevertheless, Frank--who's lots of fun but lacks solidity of character (to say the least; that's like saying NW Ohio lacks mountains)--continually takes a back seat to the other two members of the inner sanctum: the staid, reliable Mitch and the boldly charismatic entrepreneur Beanie. But, by the end of the movie, Frank has been given a few chances to shine on his own. Sure, he may not always come through, shooting himself in the neck with a tranquilizer gun or setting himself on fire while dressed in a cougar suit. But every once in a while, he rises to the occasion, stunning critics with a heartfelt rhythmic ballet routine or mystically channeling his inner wonk to school James Carville in the finer points of U.S. biotech policy.
So it is with Cabernet Franc. Like Frank, Franc is also in an inner sanctum, being one of the three indispensable red grapes of Bordeaux. (We'll leave number four, Petit Verdot, for another post.) And, like Frank, Franc always takes a back seat to its two friends, the staid, reliable Merlot and the boldly charismatic Cabernet Sauvignon. After all, when's the last time you had a glass of Cab Franc (other than this tasting)? Compare that to the last Cab Sauv or Merlot you've had, and you'll likely get the point. And there's no doubt that Cab Franc, on its own, sometimes lacks solidity of character, perhaps showing flashes--or should I say streaks--of brilliance but not able to sustain a full, developed flavor arc, which is what makes it such a good blending wine. (That may also be what makes the grape insecure and prone to saying things like, "Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low"). But every once in awhile, it truly sings on its own, with supple fruit, deep, seductive earth and leather notes, and an intriguing floral quality that places it among the most irresistable wines you're likely to come across. And when that happens, there's only one term to describe drinking such a wine. Yep, you guessed it: old school.
Unfortunately, my notes got lost in a frenzy of mid-summer housecleaning. But I can tell you that, despite the fact that the big, rich, Cab Sauv-like Reverie was the clear crowd favorite (not to mention a big winner for Robert Parker), Daniele and I both were quite taken by the Steltzner Cab Franc. Subtle, with notes of leather and tobacco, it combines the best of old world flavors and aromas with new-world (but not overdone) ripeness. If you're feeling like dropping $30-40 on an elegant, sensuous bottle of wine, try the Steltzner Cab Franc. Or, if you want to spend just a bit more (if memory serves) on a ripe, rich, velvety wine, go with the crowd and try the Reverie. Either way, you'll come out a winner. (Specific vintage information is available on the tasting sheet; or just ask Sara if you see her.)
So it is with Cabernet Franc. Like Frank, Franc is also in an inner sanctum, being one of the three indispensable red grapes of Bordeaux. (We'll leave number four, Petit Verdot, for another post.) And, like Frank, Franc always takes a back seat to its two friends, the staid, reliable Merlot and the boldly charismatic Cabernet Sauvignon. After all, when's the last time you had a glass of Cab Franc (other than this tasting)? Compare that to the last Cab Sauv or Merlot you've had, and you'll likely get the point. And there's no doubt that Cab Franc, on its own, sometimes lacks solidity of character, perhaps showing flashes--or should I say streaks--of brilliance but not able to sustain a full, developed flavor arc, which is what makes it such a good blending wine. (That may also be what makes the grape insecure and prone to saying things like, "Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low"). But every once in awhile, it truly sings on its own, with supple fruit, deep, seductive earth and leather notes, and an intriguing floral quality that places it among the most irresistable wines you're likely to come across. And when that happens, there's only one term to describe drinking such a wine. Yep, you guessed it: old school.
Unfortunately, my notes got lost in a frenzy of mid-summer housecleaning. But I can tell you that, despite the fact that the big, rich, Cab Sauv-like Reverie was the clear crowd favorite (not to mention a big winner for Robert Parker), Daniele and I both were quite taken by the Steltzner Cab Franc. Subtle, with notes of leather and tobacco, it combines the best of old world flavors and aromas with new-world (but not overdone) ripeness. If you're feeling like dropping $30-40 on an elegant, sensuous bottle of wine, try the Steltzner Cab Franc. Or, if you want to spend just a bit more (if memory serves) on a ripe, rich, velvety wine, go with the crowd and try the Reverie. Either way, you'll come out a winner. (Specific vintage information is available on the tasting sheet; or just ask Sara if you see her.)
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Tasting Notes (June 19): I'm No Miles
It's the most famous line about wine in recent film history, and maybe in all of film history:
So why should we care? Normally, I wouldn't, but the law of supply and demand says that the more people who want to drink Pinot Noir, the more money wineries, distributors, and merchants can charge for it. That's why you can hardly find a decent--not great, mind you, but decent--bottle of the stuff for under $20. Fortunately for me, and Pinot Noir notwithstanding, I happen to like Cabernet Sauvignon (bane of party goers everywhere, it would seem). I also like Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Carmenere, and Pinotage, to name a few of my favorite reds. In fact, the one thing I do come close to wine snobbery about has nothing to do with the price of the bottle, the prestige of the winery, or even the quality of the wine (the evaluation of which is very subjective). Instead, I'm snobbish in my conviction that, if you want to call yourself a wine lover, you should at least try to appreciate a range of colors, bodies, styles, and flavors. Besides, when you don't have a mint to spend on wine, broad-ranging taste is an assett.
Still, I do like a good Pinot. I have to admit, though, that what I consider to be a "good Pinot" doesn't mesh perfectly with popular or critical tastes. I prefer the softer, rounder, more full-bodied style (the Sanford below is a good example) to the more elegant, crisp-almost-to-the-point-of-effervescence style (the Beaux Freres below isn't this way in the extreme, but it does flirt with it). Don't get me wrong--a good Pinot Noir has to have a good backbone of acidity, and the best ones will be infused with seductive, earthy notes. It's just that the austere snap that makes Pinot so exciting for many wine lovers can, for me, be taken too far.
In sum, I will gladly drink "f---ing Merlot," along with all the other varietals I mention above (not to mention the gamut of white wines, all of which can be delicious). And, of course, that includes Pinot Noir. To come at wine from any other direction is, to my mind, to come at it sideways.
Now, the notes:
1. Leroy Bourgone 1999 ($44.99/bottle)
This basic Burgundy has a nice, balanced nose of baked plums, dried leaves, damp earth, and spice and has a light-medium body on the palate. A very earthy core is infused with black cherry, licorice, and spice notes, with fine tannins and a long, peppery finish.
2. Sanford Santa Rita Hills Sanford & Benedict Vineyard 2002 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose is ripe, rich, and plummy, with some woody and sweet tar notes. Medium bodied, with a smooth, silky mouthfeel, this Pinot boasts flavors of dark plum and berry, toast, and new leather, all strung on a taught but not overwhelming rope of acidity. The long finish is pure black tea. Spectator gave this one 87; I'd bump it up 5 points. Excellent.
3. Taz Fiddlestix Vineyard 2005 ($36.99/bottle)
This silky, medium bodied Pinot offers aromas of cherry and raspberry cola and a lightly floral perfumed note. Snappy acidity gives lift to flavors of cola, tea, and smoke. The finish is dark and herbal. Nice.
4. Etude Pinot Noir 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
The nose is pure Old World, dominated by wild mushrooms, minerality, and barnyard notes. Medium bodied, with black cherry and plum fruit, mountains of black soil, and cigarette tobacco on the palate. This is a beautifully sensuous, seductive wine.
5. Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post Highlighner 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Smooth and medium bodied with sprightly acidity, this Pinot offers aromas of straight cola, peppery spice, and flowers, and flavors of sweet dark berries, tar, cola, and a hint of earth. This is a nice, solid wine.
6. Beaux Freres Ribbon Ridge Vineyard 2006 ($79.99/bottle)
Black cherry, toasted wood, and rich perfumed spice aromas give way to a medium bodied palate. Flavors of sweet cherry, red and black licorice, and spice seem to jump around on your tongue, so kinetic is the acidity. As my introductory comments imply, this is not my ideal style of Pinot. But becuase it has some richness for balance, it is a very good example of that style. If you like your Pinots lively, you will love this one.
"If anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am not drinking any f---ing Merlot!"The film, of course, is Sideways, and with these words Miles--the self-loathing writer, Pinot Noir lover, and arbiter of taste for would-be wine snobs across the nation--sounded the death-knell of the Merlot glut of the 90's and issued in the era of Pinot envy. (Though, truth be told, Merlot sales actually went up after the film's release, at least according to the woman in the tasting room at Beaulieu Vineyards.) Nowadays, one can hardly go to a party or a tasting without someone proclaiming, "I'm not a big fan of Cabernet. I like Pinots." True, maybe some of them came by their opinions honestly. But I hear that same sentiment uttered often enough to make me think there are lots of wine drinkers out there who just do what the latest screenwriter or best-selling author tells them to do.
So why should we care? Normally, I wouldn't, but the law of supply and demand says that the more people who want to drink Pinot Noir, the more money wineries, distributors, and merchants can charge for it. That's why you can hardly find a decent--not great, mind you, but decent--bottle of the stuff for under $20. Fortunately for me, and Pinot Noir notwithstanding, I happen to like Cabernet Sauvignon (bane of party goers everywhere, it would seem). I also like Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Carmenere, and Pinotage, to name a few of my favorite reds. In fact, the one thing I do come close to wine snobbery about has nothing to do with the price of the bottle, the prestige of the winery, or even the quality of the wine (the evaluation of which is very subjective). Instead, I'm snobbish in my conviction that, if you want to call yourself a wine lover, you should at least try to appreciate a range of colors, bodies, styles, and flavors. Besides, when you don't have a mint to spend on wine, broad-ranging taste is an assett.
Still, I do like a good Pinot. I have to admit, though, that what I consider to be a "good Pinot" doesn't mesh perfectly with popular or critical tastes. I prefer the softer, rounder, more full-bodied style (the Sanford below is a good example) to the more elegant, crisp-almost-to-the-point-of-effervescence style (the Beaux Freres below isn't this way in the extreme, but it does flirt with it). Don't get me wrong--a good Pinot Noir has to have a good backbone of acidity, and the best ones will be infused with seductive, earthy notes. It's just that the austere snap that makes Pinot so exciting for many wine lovers can, for me, be taken too far.
In sum, I will gladly drink "f---ing Merlot," along with all the other varietals I mention above (not to mention the gamut of white wines, all of which can be delicious). And, of course, that includes Pinot Noir. To come at wine from any other direction is, to my mind, to come at it sideways.
Now, the notes:
1. Leroy Bourgone 1999 ($44.99/bottle)
This basic Burgundy has a nice, balanced nose of baked plums, dried leaves, damp earth, and spice and has a light-medium body on the palate. A very earthy core is infused with black cherry, licorice, and spice notes, with fine tannins and a long, peppery finish.
2. Sanford Santa Rita Hills Sanford & Benedict Vineyard 2002 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose is ripe, rich, and plummy, with some woody and sweet tar notes. Medium bodied, with a smooth, silky mouthfeel, this Pinot boasts flavors of dark plum and berry, toast, and new leather, all strung on a taught but not overwhelming rope of acidity. The long finish is pure black tea. Spectator gave this one 87; I'd bump it up 5 points. Excellent.
3. Taz Fiddlestix Vineyard 2005 ($36.99/bottle)
This silky, medium bodied Pinot offers aromas of cherry and raspberry cola and a lightly floral perfumed note. Snappy acidity gives lift to flavors of cola, tea, and smoke. The finish is dark and herbal. Nice.
4. Etude Pinot Noir 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
The nose is pure Old World, dominated by wild mushrooms, minerality, and barnyard notes. Medium bodied, with black cherry and plum fruit, mountains of black soil, and cigarette tobacco on the palate. This is a beautifully sensuous, seductive wine.
5. Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post Highlighner 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Smooth and medium bodied with sprightly acidity, this Pinot offers aromas of straight cola, peppery spice, and flowers, and flavors of sweet dark berries, tar, cola, and a hint of earth. This is a nice, solid wine.
6. Beaux Freres Ribbon Ridge Vineyard 2006 ($79.99/bottle)
Black cherry, toasted wood, and rich perfumed spice aromas give way to a medium bodied palate. Flavors of sweet cherry, red and black licorice, and spice seem to jump around on your tongue, so kinetic is the acidity. As my introductory comments imply, this is not my ideal style of Pinot. But becuase it has some richness for balance, it is a very good example of that style. If you like your Pinots lively, you will love this one.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Tasting Notes (June 12): La Dolce (e Amaro) Vita
"and so she seems a wondrous thing sent down from heaven to earth"
The great Florentine poet Dante Alighieri wrote these words in the 1300's, and they would seem to be a simple celebration of the divinely beautiful woman who is the subject of the poem. But a closer look reveals a separation, a distance, between the speaker and this ideal woman: by virtue of her divinity, she can never be his. He knows this, of course, but, like many poets of the time, Dante (or, more accurately, his narrative voice) delights in the paradoxically painful pleasure that worshipping her from afar offers. Indeed, it is to Dante, Petrarch, and other inheritors of the Troubadour tradition that we owe the greatest debt for the prevalence of this concept in our own cultural traditions and forms, from Juliet's "parting is such sweet sorrow" to John Cougar Mellencamp's "hurt so good." (Yes, I just implicitly compared JCM to Shakespeare, but I'm on a roll, so I'm going with it.)
So powerful is this idea, in fact, that it's no stretch at all to transfer it from the sight of a beautiful person to the taste of a stunning wine. Great wines, like all great experiences in life, never satisfy completely. It's easy, that is, to toss back a glass or two (or three) of a juicy, inexpensive Shiraz with an equally juicy burger and settle into an evening of fine contentment. But not so with your more stratospheric wines. Maybe they tease one into regret, into thinking that in another year or two they would have offered even more. Maybe their complexity overwhelms the senses, so that the part of you that wants to put the experience into words can never quite catch up with the torrent of flavors and textures rushing over your palate. Or, maybe, they are so hauntingly delicious that as soon as you finish the bottle you begin dreaming about the next one. Whatever the reason, it is this play between pleasure and desire, between satiety and appetite, that makes wine "a wondrous thing sent down from heaven to earth." And, like Italian poets, Italian wines compel us to celebrate this paradox of the human condition: the things we desire the most are the things we can never fully have.
Now, the notes:
1. Gaja Rossj-Bass Chardonnay 2006 ($48.99/bottle)
As utterly beautiful as a couple of the reds in this lineup were, it was this chardonnay that I found myself thinking about in the week following the tasting. Medium-bodied and exquisitely balanced between crispness and richness, this wine offers aromas and flavors of citrus, melon, and gunflint-like minerality, with even a faint nuttiness emerging on the back end. The long finish is deliciously stony. Outstanding.
2. Petra Ebo Val di Cornia 2003 ($19.99/bottle)
This red from the coast of Tuscany has a beautiful nose of black cherry, leather, clove, and dried leaves and flavors of sweet blackberry liqueur, sour cherry, tobacco, and black licorice. Medium-full bodied, with fine, drying tannins on the long, anise-laden finish. Very nice, and a great value at <$20. Drink now through 2013.
3. Monsanto Chianti Riserva 2003 ($24.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied red offers aromas of plum, leather, oak, and spice, and flavors of tart but ripe cherry, plum, leather, and earth. It ends with a long, dark finish. Nice acidity for pairing with a wide variety of foods, from pasta with red sauce to grilled rib eye.
4. Capezzana Ghiaie Della Furba 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
This red has a wonderful nose of grilled plums, tree bark, and sweet woodland flowers. Big, bold flavors of ripe berries, lots of leather, and dusty pepper lead into a long, pancetta-laced finish. Every wine in this lineup has been very nice, and this one is no exception.
5. Ceretto Barolo Prapo 2001 ($87.99/bottle)
In this full-bodied red from the Piedmont, the nose of mixed berries, dark brown sugar, and road tar is buoyed by a bright floral note. On the palate it is both massive and luxuriously silky, with flavors of blackberry, red currant, toasty oak, leather, and spice. Big and tannic--think meat roasted on a spit for an ideal food pairing--this is the liger of wines: a cross flavor-wise between the lion of Chianti and the tiger of Bordeaux, it is bigger and more powerful than both. Outstanding.
6. Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001 ($99.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is subtle and caramelly, with a distinct animal/barnyard character and a hint of charred wood. The palate offers enticing flavors of ripe black fruits, sweet spiced orange, tobacco, and a hint of dark chocolate. The long finish is dark, bitter, and very sensuous. Very smooth, and very tannic, this wine is drinking well now but needs several years to fully come into its own.
The great Florentine poet Dante Alighieri wrote these words in the 1300's, and they would seem to be a simple celebration of the divinely beautiful woman who is the subject of the poem. But a closer look reveals a separation, a distance, between the speaker and this ideal woman: by virtue of her divinity, she can never be his. He knows this, of course, but, like many poets of the time, Dante (or, more accurately, his narrative voice) delights in the paradoxically painful pleasure that worshipping her from afar offers. Indeed, it is to Dante, Petrarch, and other inheritors of the Troubadour tradition that we owe the greatest debt for the prevalence of this concept in our own cultural traditions and forms, from Juliet's "parting is such sweet sorrow" to John Cougar Mellencamp's "hurt so good." (Yes, I just implicitly compared JCM to Shakespeare, but I'm on a roll, so I'm going with it.)
So powerful is this idea, in fact, that it's no stretch at all to transfer it from the sight of a beautiful person to the taste of a stunning wine. Great wines, like all great experiences in life, never satisfy completely. It's easy, that is, to toss back a glass or two (or three) of a juicy, inexpensive Shiraz with an equally juicy burger and settle into an evening of fine contentment. But not so with your more stratospheric wines. Maybe they tease one into regret, into thinking that in another year or two they would have offered even more. Maybe their complexity overwhelms the senses, so that the part of you that wants to put the experience into words can never quite catch up with the torrent of flavors and textures rushing over your palate. Or, maybe, they are so hauntingly delicious that as soon as you finish the bottle you begin dreaming about the next one. Whatever the reason, it is this play between pleasure and desire, between satiety and appetite, that makes wine "a wondrous thing sent down from heaven to earth." And, like Italian poets, Italian wines compel us to celebrate this paradox of the human condition: the things we desire the most are the things we can never fully have.
Now, the notes:
1. Gaja Rossj-Bass Chardonnay 2006 ($48.99/bottle)
As utterly beautiful as a couple of the reds in this lineup were, it was this chardonnay that I found myself thinking about in the week following the tasting. Medium-bodied and exquisitely balanced between crispness and richness, this wine offers aromas and flavors of citrus, melon, and gunflint-like minerality, with even a faint nuttiness emerging on the back end. The long finish is deliciously stony. Outstanding.
2. Petra Ebo Val di Cornia 2003 ($19.99/bottle)
This red from the coast of Tuscany has a beautiful nose of black cherry, leather, clove, and dried leaves and flavors of sweet blackberry liqueur, sour cherry, tobacco, and black licorice. Medium-full bodied, with fine, drying tannins on the long, anise-laden finish. Very nice, and a great value at <$20. Drink now through 2013.
3. Monsanto Chianti Riserva 2003 ($24.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied red offers aromas of plum, leather, oak, and spice, and flavors of tart but ripe cherry, plum, leather, and earth. It ends with a long, dark finish. Nice acidity for pairing with a wide variety of foods, from pasta with red sauce to grilled rib eye.
4. Capezzana Ghiaie Della Furba 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
This red has a wonderful nose of grilled plums, tree bark, and sweet woodland flowers. Big, bold flavors of ripe berries, lots of leather, and dusty pepper lead into a long, pancetta-laced finish. Every wine in this lineup has been very nice, and this one is no exception.
5. Ceretto Barolo Prapo 2001 ($87.99/bottle)
In this full-bodied red from the Piedmont, the nose of mixed berries, dark brown sugar, and road tar is buoyed by a bright floral note. On the palate it is both massive and luxuriously silky, with flavors of blackberry, red currant, toasty oak, leather, and spice. Big and tannic--think meat roasted on a spit for an ideal food pairing--this is the liger of wines: a cross flavor-wise between the lion of Chianti and the tiger of Bordeaux, it is bigger and more powerful than both. Outstanding.
6. Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001 ($99.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is subtle and caramelly, with a distinct animal/barnyard character and a hint of charred wood. The palate offers enticing flavors of ripe black fruits, sweet spiced orange, tobacco, and a hint of dark chocolate. The long finish is dark, bitter, and very sensuous. Very smooth, and very tannic, this wine is drinking well now but needs several years to fully come into its own.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Tasting Notes (May 29): Armageddon Reds
I kept waiting for the bad news. Stimmel’s was moving to Findlay. Wine was being outlawed in Ohio. The Rapture had begun. (For some that last one would no doubt be good news; for me, it would be very, very bad.) Why else would I be drinking my first Chateau Haut-Brion and my first Opus One—two of the most sought after cabernet-based wines in the world—on the same night, not to mention a 1988 Sauternes, one of the best Shirazes in the world, and the very highly regarded Toro wine Numanthia? It couldn’t simply be that I’m one lucky sunnovab—er, guy.
But nothing happened. I drank the wines. I watched a ballgame. I went to bed, got up, had my day. And now I’m sitting here at midnight writing this post (and finishing it the next evening, still untouched by the fates). Happily and not a little bit surprisingly, life went, and goes, on.
Not unchanged, though. You can’t experience a tasting like this one and be the same after it. And, contrary to what you might think, not all of the changes one experiences after tasting some of the world’s best wines in one sitting are positive—at least, not the ones I experienced. Specifically, I have a nagging sense that, even though the Earth didn’t open up and swallow me or (I suspect) any of the other tasters whole Thursday night, I, a lowly assistant professor of English, have some karmic comeuppance in store for daring to find fault—any fault—in this by-all-accounts-stellar lineup. I just can’t help it, though. A 2000 Opus One is going to sing like a chorus of angels when up against your run-of-the-mill Cali cab. But after a 1991 Ridge Monte Bello, it’s going to seem a little lean. It’s just the nature of things.
So despite—or, better yet, because of—my hubris at even thinking about passing judgment on some of the world’s finest wines, I throw myself on the mercy of the universe. After all, if there are more things in Heaven and Earth than are dreamt of in my philosophy, maybe one of them can help me out here, because I’m clearly in over my head.
Now, the notes:
Chateau Haut-Brion 2004 (France; $269.99/bottle)
Still extremely young, this first-growth Bordeaux is dark red in color, with a nose of rich, ripe currant, earth, worn leather, and wet stone. Even though the wine is very tight and the tannins are young, the perfect, silky texture still manages to shine through with ease. Big flavors of black plum and leather should soften and become more nuanced over the next 5 – 20 years.
Ridge Monte Bello 1991 (California; $199.99/bottle)
The 1992 Monte Bello is in my top two or three wines ever, and this one—one year older—is easily in my top fifteen. Brick red with little to no brown showing on the edge, it has a rich nose of dark berries, chocolate, smoky spice, and pencil lead. The mouthfeel on this full-bodied Bordeaux-style blend is pure satin, with very fine tannins and a luxurious, long finish. On the palate, an enticing smoky note infuses flavors of blackberry, peppery spice, and a hint of dill.
Opus One 2000 (California; $151.99/bottle)
Brick red with browning edges and a prominent pencil shaving note on the nose, this perennial Napa Valley star is showing more age than you might expect for only being eight years old. It is medium-full bodied with bright acidity and flavors of black currant, plum, pencil shavings, and a hint of pepper. The long finish is graphite-filled. Very good, but not the powerhouse I expected.
Kosta Brown Russian River Pinot Noir 2006 (California; $69.99/bottle)
While pinot noirs have so far been easy for me to pick out in Stimmels’ blind tastings, I find them very difficult to describe in tasting notes. Because I drink far more full-bodied reds like cabernet and shiraz than I do lighter-bodied pinots, my descriptive vocabulary for those wines is correspondingly more developed. Anyway, long disclaimer short: while I wait until after I take my notes to read the “official” notes on the tasting card, I find myself wanting to just substitute them for mine, since, when I read them, I thought, “Yes, that’s exactly right.” Still, here are mine, for what they’re worth: on the full side of medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of bright cherry, forest floor, earth, and violets, with something also vaguely coffee/toffee-like.
Numanthia 2005 (Spain; 69.99/bottle)
This red from the Toro region in Spain has an interesting nose, showing black plum, chocolate, vanilla, and a ghost of something reminiscent of farmer’s cheese. (It’s the cheese part that makes the nose so interesting; I’d call it an off note if it weren’t so faint and if it showed up on the palate, which it doesn’t). It has a rich but elegant palate of blackberry, chocolate, pine, and mint, with a flannel-like mouthfeel and bold but fine tannins. The finish is mint and licorice-laced. Very nice, but needs 3-5 years minimum in the bottle before it will really show what it’s made of.
D’Arenberg The Dead Arm 2004 (Australia; $79.99/bottle)
Deep opaque purple, this Aussie Shiraz has shows blueberry, black olive, pepper, and menthol on the nose. The superripe, full-bodied palate is spicy and rich, with a riot of dark berry fruit and lots of spicy pepper. The finish is very long and reminiscent of dried scrub and black olives (not unlike what the French call “garrigue”).
Chateau Rieussec 1988 (France; $129.99/bottle)
This very distinctive, personality-laden dessert wine from Sauternes has a deep, golden yellow color suggestive of nearly two decades of bottle age. The nose reveals honey, crème brulèe, smoke, and baked pineapples, while the flavors suggest sweet honeysuckle, canned pear juice, amaretto, and a light hint of smoke. The very long finish is surprisingly spicy and cigar-like. Good acid to keep things in balance.
But nothing happened. I drank the wines. I watched a ballgame. I went to bed, got up, had my day. And now I’m sitting here at midnight writing this post (and finishing it the next evening, still untouched by the fates). Happily and not a little bit surprisingly, life went, and goes, on.
Not unchanged, though. You can’t experience a tasting like this one and be the same after it. And, contrary to what you might think, not all of the changes one experiences after tasting some of the world’s best wines in one sitting are positive—at least, not the ones I experienced. Specifically, I have a nagging sense that, even though the Earth didn’t open up and swallow me or (I suspect) any of the other tasters whole Thursday night, I, a lowly assistant professor of English, have some karmic comeuppance in store for daring to find fault—any fault—in this by-all-accounts-stellar lineup. I just can’t help it, though. A 2000 Opus One is going to sing like a chorus of angels when up against your run-of-the-mill Cali cab. But after a 1991 Ridge Monte Bello, it’s going to seem a little lean. It’s just the nature of things.
So despite—or, better yet, because of—my hubris at even thinking about passing judgment on some of the world’s finest wines, I throw myself on the mercy of the universe. After all, if there are more things in Heaven and Earth than are dreamt of in my philosophy, maybe one of them can help me out here, because I’m clearly in over my head.
Now, the notes:
Chateau Haut-Brion 2004 (France; $269.99/bottle)
Still extremely young, this first-growth Bordeaux is dark red in color, with a nose of rich, ripe currant, earth, worn leather, and wet stone. Even though the wine is very tight and the tannins are young, the perfect, silky texture still manages to shine through with ease. Big flavors of black plum and leather should soften and become more nuanced over the next 5 – 20 years.
Ridge Monte Bello 1991 (California; $199.99/bottle)
The 1992 Monte Bello is in my top two or three wines ever, and this one—one year older—is easily in my top fifteen. Brick red with little to no brown showing on the edge, it has a rich nose of dark berries, chocolate, smoky spice, and pencil lead. The mouthfeel on this full-bodied Bordeaux-style blend is pure satin, with very fine tannins and a luxurious, long finish. On the palate, an enticing smoky note infuses flavors of blackberry, peppery spice, and a hint of dill.
Opus One 2000 (California; $151.99/bottle)
Brick red with browning edges and a prominent pencil shaving note on the nose, this perennial Napa Valley star is showing more age than you might expect for only being eight years old. It is medium-full bodied with bright acidity and flavors of black currant, plum, pencil shavings, and a hint of pepper. The long finish is graphite-filled. Very good, but not the powerhouse I expected.
Kosta Brown Russian River Pinot Noir 2006 (California; $69.99/bottle)
While pinot noirs have so far been easy for me to pick out in Stimmels’ blind tastings, I find them very difficult to describe in tasting notes. Because I drink far more full-bodied reds like cabernet and shiraz than I do lighter-bodied pinots, my descriptive vocabulary for those wines is correspondingly more developed. Anyway, long disclaimer short: while I wait until after I take my notes to read the “official” notes on the tasting card, I find myself wanting to just substitute them for mine, since, when I read them, I thought, “Yes, that’s exactly right.” Still, here are mine, for what they’re worth: on the full side of medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of bright cherry, forest floor, earth, and violets, with something also vaguely coffee/toffee-like.
Numanthia 2005 (Spain; 69.99/bottle)
This red from the Toro region in Spain has an interesting nose, showing black plum, chocolate, vanilla, and a ghost of something reminiscent of farmer’s cheese. (It’s the cheese part that makes the nose so interesting; I’d call it an off note if it weren’t so faint and if it showed up on the palate, which it doesn’t). It has a rich but elegant palate of blackberry, chocolate, pine, and mint, with a flannel-like mouthfeel and bold but fine tannins. The finish is mint and licorice-laced. Very nice, but needs 3-5 years minimum in the bottle before it will really show what it’s made of.
D’Arenberg The Dead Arm 2004 (Australia; $79.99/bottle)
Deep opaque purple, this Aussie Shiraz has shows blueberry, black olive, pepper, and menthol on the nose. The superripe, full-bodied palate is spicy and rich, with a riot of dark berry fruit and lots of spicy pepper. The finish is very long and reminiscent of dried scrub and black olives (not unlike what the French call “garrigue”).
Chateau Rieussec 1988 (France; $129.99/bottle)
This very distinctive, personality-laden dessert wine from Sauternes has a deep, golden yellow color suggestive of nearly two decades of bottle age. The nose reveals honey, crème brulèe, smoke, and baked pineapples, while the flavors suggest sweet honeysuckle, canned pear juice, amaretto, and a light hint of smoke. The very long finish is surprisingly spicy and cigar-like. Good acid to keep things in balance.
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