grape and grain

Tasting Notes (Feb. 12): Cabernet Sauvignon, Or, Hail to the King

2009-02-16T19:15:00.000-08:00

As much I've been into syrahs lately, I have to admit that cabernet sauvignon is still the one grape that, when it soars to the heights it's capable of, can mesmerize like no other wine, with simultaneous strength, balance, concentration, elegance, and sheer flavor. As (potentially) an "iron fist in a velvet glove," cabernet, when done well, deserves its reputation as the king of grapes.

Now, the notes:

1. Clos du Marquis 2002 (Bordeaux, France; $49.99/bottle)
Still somewhat young at seven years old, this medium-full-bodied Bordeaux (the "second" bottling of Chateau Leoville la Cases) is nevertheless drinking beautifully, with a spicy, earthy nose and gorgeous flavors of black currant, tar, leather, dried leaves, and a hint of wet stone. Balanced and very smooth. Excellent. Rating: 93

2. Cignale 2001 (Tuscany, Italy; $72.99/bottle)
Full-bodied, sweetly ripe, and incredibly sensuous, with almost primordially earthy flavors and aromas of black plum, mushrooms, animal hide, chocolate, and spice. Beautiful. Rating: 94

3. Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington; $34.99/bottle)
The first time I tried this wine (last week) I thought it was lackluster, but it was my first sample of the day, and I didn't go back. This time, with some warm-up samples under my belt, I saw this wine's charms: bright acidity and sweet, jammy plum and rhubarb fruit are laced with rich vanilla and lead to a lively, licorice-tinged finish. A bit one-note, but it's a good note. Rating: 91

4. Schweiger Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Napa; $49.99/bottle)
Full-bodied and very smooth, with black currant, black earth, spice, and tar notes. Ripe, well-integrated tannins and acidity from the cool Spring Mountain fruit lend a hard-to-resist elegance. Drinking beautifully now, but may not hit full stride for another 3-5 years. Rating: 93

5. Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Reserve 2004 (Colchagua, Chile; 16.99/bottle)
Very big, bold, and concentrated, this South American cabernet is not for the faint of heart. Full-bodied, with assertive flavors of blackberry, earthy leather, and (telltale Chilean) baked stuffed bell pepper. A bit rough around the edges, but overall not bad (and a decent value). Rating: 86

6. Vinum Africa 2006 (South Africa; $17.99/bottle)
With a nose of currant, plum, smoke, and pepper, this medium-full-bodied cabernet is super-smoky on the palate, with round but penetrating blackberry fruit and chewy, peppery tannins. Bold, classic South African wine. Think BBQ. Rating: 88

Tasting Notes (Pick-a-Week Edition: Jan. 8)

2009-02-12T07:16:00.000-08:00

I had promised to keep up with recent notes and fill in with backlogged ones as time permits. Well, time permits me to post last Thursday's Rhone notes, but I just realized I forgot to get pictures of the bottles, so I don't remember all the vitals--specific blends/bottlings, vintages, etc.

So as I track them down, here are some notes from the Jan. 8 Aussie tasting. I don't have numerical ratings for them, because I took the notes before I started assigning them. (And, by the way, this was an absolutely exceptional tasting. Not a bad wine in the bunch, and several outstanding ones.)

1. Evans and Tate Chardonnay 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
An interesting and appealing nose of fried apples, smoke, and flint gives way to a rich, creamy, mouthfilling body, with a flash of acidity and stony minerality to provide balance. The finish is long and vibrant. Very nice.

2. Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 1999 ($29.99/bottle)
Yes, it's an Aussie that calls itself syrah instead of shiraz, presumably an homage to shiraz's forerunners in the Rhone. This full-bodied red has a beautiful, complex nose of dark berries, coffee, pepper, leather, graphite, and tree bark, with an intense, peppery kick to the raspberry, leather, and tobacco notes on the palate. Firmly tannic and quite acidic, this wine needs at least 3-5 more years in the bottle. Let's hope the fruit holds out that long, because if it does, this will be breathtaking.

3. Tait Ballbuster 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
Rich, full-bodied, and easy-drinking, with raspberry, blueberry and cola notes, and lots of nice, spicy tar on the back end. This wine nods toward complexity, but it doesn't demand that you think about it--only that you enjoy it. Great value.

4. Kalleske Greenock Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
Rich, ripe, and very smooth, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, raspberry, spice, and tar. Not overly complex, but seamlessly executed, with a very welcome touch of elegance you don't normally find in "big" Aussie shirazes.

5. Massena The 11th Hour Shiraz 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose on this one is so complex--each time I went back, I got something new--it seems almost a shame to drink it. Until you taste it, that is. Thick, almost chewy, this is nevertheless not your standard fruit bomb, with nice balance and well-integrated flavors of black currant, tar, pepper, and leather and a very long, luxurious finish. Very, very good.

6. Glaetzer Amon-Ra 2005 (no price listed on sheet; high $70's, I think)
A big, big wine, with classic Aussie aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, spice, vanilla, and black olive. This shiraz could have been too rich for its own good, but for a brilliant streak of acidity that gives it a lovely, sprightly quality despite its overall heft. A stellar offering.

Tasting Notes (Jan 29): Italy

2009-02-05T11:22:00.000-08:00

1. La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005
Subtle, with a light-medium body and flavors and aromas of cherry, cola, and tar. Finishes with a nice, if faint, smokiness. Refreshing and crisply acidic--think pizza. Rating: 86

2. Ambra Carmignano 2004
Sweet plum, damp leaves, rose petals, and cocoa define the nose and palate on this medium-bodied, rich, earthy Tuscan red. Tart fruit, full acidity, and moderate tannins make this a food wine (a bit puckery on its own). Try with rich pastas and mushroom dishes. Rating: 88

3. Allegrini Valpollicella 2007
The nose on this red from Northwest Italy is very fruity and grapey, almost Beaujolais Nouveau-like. Thankfully, the palate shows more depth, with bright berry and currant notes and some balancing leather and earthy violet notes emerging on the back end. Rating: 87

4. Planeta Syrah 2005
Dark and spicy, with a fairly complex palate showing black plum, blackberry, graphite, and chocolate notes. More austere and structured than the 2004, with still-assertive tannins. Good personality and staying power. Cellar for 2-4 years and drink over the next six. Rating: 91

5. Casanova di Nori Brunello di Montalcino 2003
This rich, full-bodied Brunello has an almost irresistibly sensuous nose of mushroom, earth, and sweet sandalwood. Ripe black plum fruit and fine tannins provide a sturdy platform for complex and delicate earth, floral, spice, and leather secondary notes. The finish is very long and minty, bordering on eucalyptic. Cellar for 3-5 more years; drink over the next 15. Rating: 94

6. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001
Full-bodied with sharp acidity and bold tannins, with cherry, tobacco, and pencil lead notes barely peeking through a quite muted palate. This wine may be in a temporary "dumb phase," after which it will re-emerge as the beauty it (as a 2001 Barolo) is expected to be. No rating: try again in a year or two.

7. Gancia Mercato d'Asti (NV)
Super-fruity nose, bubble-gum like, with apple and gardenia flavors. Simple, sweet, and bubbly. Drink and forget (but enjoy nonetheless). 84

Playing Catch-Up with Pinots

2009-01-26T18:35:00.000-08:00

As I work to make up ground on my embarrassing backlog of posts, I'll start in the near past and work my way back. That way, the newer posts will feature wines that, if you were at the tasting, will still be reasonably fresh in your mind.

I'll start with last Thursday's pinot noir tasting, which was an absolute delight. If you know me, you know how I feel about the Sideways-inspired pinot craze. But there are lots of damn good ones out there--several of which were poured this night. A few were even priced reasonably. (Will wonders never cease?)

Also, I'm experimenting with a 100 pt. scale numerical rating system. I started doing it for myself as a way to help me better access my memories and experiences of the wines, and I thought I'd include those ratings here to see how they float. Just remember, though--one person's 85 may be another's 92. If you find yourself over time agreeing with my assessments, then you can rely all you want on my numbers. If you have a harder time identifying with my descriptions and ratings, then you should probably try the wines for yourself.

Now, the notes:

1. Chandon Brut NV ($24.99/bottle)
This is a basic, serviceable Champagne-style sparkler. Better than anything you'll get at most New Years' parties, though not as good as what you might expect for $25. For the money, I'd go with a Cava (Spain) or a Prosecco (Italy). Still, not bad. Rating: 83

2. Labaume Mercurey 1er Cru 2002 ($39.99/bottle)
Smooth and light-bodied, this Burgundy shows pure but lean, tart black cherry fruit with earthy, forest-floor secondary notes. Would be a beautiful wine, but ultimately the fruit is just too thin. Rating: 85

3. Tohu Marlborough 2004 ($24.99/bottle)
This is 2/3 of a beautiful wine: enchanting nose, gorgeous flavors, and no finish. Cherry, cola, cedar sawdust, and earth infuse this refined, medium-bodied, aromatic pinot. For food pairing, think cedar plank roasted salmon or duck stuffed with wild cherries. Rating: 91

4. Styring Signature 2005 ($26.99/bottle)
The beautiful, seductive, Old-World-style nose on this pinot suggests crushed violets, graphite, and musky earth. On the full side of medium-bodied and very smooth, with a solid core of acidity to keep the ripe fruit and deep, rich earthiness on their feet. Finishes with cherry and black licorice. Rating: 92

5. Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
This wine's nose is rich and dark, with beautiful if subtle nuances of earth, grapefruit, and medicinal herbs. Super complex and almost mesmerizingly smooth, the palate is a riot of perfectly-poised oppositions: bitter but sweet, brooding but upbeat, darkly rich but light on its feet. It's like great literature in a glass. Rating: 94

6. Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast 2006 ($69.99/bottle)
Unbelievably smooth, this wine features fine, ripe tannins to go with the standard bolt of acidity. The result is an uncommonly-structured, age-worthy pinot (5-7 yrs.) with indulgent aromas and flavors of cherry, fresh strawberry, sweet vanilla, cinnamon, and something like tree bark. Less challenging to the senses than the Au Bon Climat, this pinot is expertly executed and (almost) too easy to love. Rating: 94

The Best of 2008

2009-01-06T19:58:00.000-08:00

OK, I'm refreshed. After eight months, I suppose it's time to start posting again, and what better time to re-engage than now? I was extremely lucky to taste hundreds of good wines in 2008 (and a few stinkers), but the double bakers' dozen below represents my top 26 wines of the year. These are the wines that are the most memorable, and are all wines that I personally rated as 92+ scores. Without further ado (ahem, drum roll please...):

26. Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2006 - I enjoyed this rich, fruit-forward Pinot at the winery in Oregon on a perfectly chilly and blustery day in late September. The spicy cherry cola flavors were intense. A fabulous wine for the price.

25. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 - Full-bodied, with gobs of ripe fruit, good acidity and black pepper to keep it honest. Hedonistic to the extreme.

24. Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva White Rioja 1981 - A 27-year-old White Rioja makes the list you ask? Well, for the lucky few who tried this at one of the slowest tastings of the year, it was savory with soft fruit and even some acidity left. Bizarre, memorable, and downright surprisingly good.

23. Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2005 - The second of three Oregon Pinot Noirs on the list, this is one beauty of a wine.

22. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 - There is a reason why the 2005 Bordeaux vintage has been hailed as the best of my lifetime, and this youngster offered a glimpse into a very bright future. Tight, tannic and likely 10+ years away from drinking well, this still offered an amazingly silky mouthfeel with just a skosh of fruit hiding in the background. Check back in 2018, and this might wind up being the very best wine on this list.

21. Owen Roe Cabernet Franc Rosa Mystica 2006 - This completely redefined what I thought Cab Franc could be. Beautiful soft fruit with floral notes and a wonderful mouthfeel. Wish I had more.

20. Chateau de Serame 2005 - The best value wine of the year, hands down. For less than $20, it offered a boatload of tar complexity with good, dark fruit. Outstanding stuff.

19. Luca Pinot Noir 2005 - Another game-changer. If someone had told me that one of the very best bottles of Pinot Noir that I'd try would come from the home of Malbec, I would have chuckled. Then, I would have laughed some more. Well, this is a serious Pinot from Argentina that sports purity of fruit and an elegant mouthfeel reminiscent of the likes of Sea Smoke.

18. Chateau d'Yquem 2001 - I must be doing something right, when a Wine Spectator 100-point classic dessert wine is only my 4th favorite sweet wine of the year.

17. Bergstrom Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2006 - After double-checking my notes, I think this was the best Oregon Pinot that I had the pleasure to try in 2008. Everything you'd expect with a super-silky mouthfeel.

16. Massena The Howling Dog 2005 - After drinking (and enjoying) dozens of great Australian wines in 2007, I severely cut back my Aussie intake in '08. Still, this Petite Sirah was a monster with oodles of dark fruit, spice and tar. Delicious.

15. Louis Guntrum Trockenbeerenauslese 1994 - This German dessert wine confirmed what I had expected: Higher-end TBA's are worth seeking out and rival the best dessert wines in the world. Sweet apple and citrus are brushed back by amazing acidity here. Truly a party in your mouth.

14. Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill Estate 2005 - One of my personal tasting trends that seemed to take center stage this past year was a deep passion for tar. Yes, for some reason I have found that red wines with dark rich fruit and a splash of tarry goodness render me weak-kneed and vulnerable. This was one of those wines....

....and this takes us up to our top 13 wines of the year. The best bakers dozen that money can buy:

13. Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2000 - I had this all the way back on January 3rd, 2008 and it was an absolute revelation. Sure, it's sweet, but it's also laced with a myriad of flavors including a blast of tobacco. Unbelievably complex and thought-provoking.

12. El Nido Clio 2005 - I don't think I had a new-world red last year that did a better job of juggling intense, ripe fruit and sweet vanilla oak quite like this one did. Hedonistic, delicious and bordering on shameful.

11. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1988 - Another great learning experience. I never knew that a 20-year-old Hermitage could taste so bright and fresh, and be so drinkable. Class dismissed.

10. Fattoria Della Vitae Brunello di Montalcino 1997 - This outstanding Brunello was overshadowed by my favorite wine of the year, which was consumed at the same tasting. After re-reading my tasting notes though, this was a solid top-10 wine itself. Waves of milk chocolate and tar keep coming at you, surfing on a beautiful mouthfeel. Awesome stuff.

9. D.R. Stephens Cabernet Sauvignon Moose Valley 2004 - Unbelievably complex, yet full-bodied and bursting with ripe fruit. A stellar wine, and the best modern California Cab I had in 2008.

8. Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee Premier Cru 2004 - One of the most vexing wines of the year. When I first tasted this White Burgundy with Sara at a July trade show in Columbus, we both were floored by the bacon fat nose and explosion of smoky fruit on the palate *from a Chardonnay *. At that moment, and it was early enough in the tasting that I knew my palate was still fresh, I proclaimed it the best dry white wine I'd ever tried. Fast forward a month when we poured it at the market, and it didn't show anything, was even a tad boring, and you can understand my conundrum. Well, I know what I tasted at the show, and Sara has my back on this. It was crazy good.

7. Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001 - I read somewhere that a sweet spot for CdP can be somewhere around 7 years. Well, I had this wine twice in 2008, and while slightly better the first time in September, it was fantastic both times. Just a perfect balance of red berries, meat, olives and crushed rocks. One of the best Chateauneufs I've ever had, if not THE best.

6. Ridge Montebello 1992 - This is the one California wine that I've tried through the years that I believe stands up to the aging potential of many top Bordeaux wines from France. Black currant and lead pencil show the way for a terrific wine that still has several years of life left.

5. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2005 - Another revelation. This was my first White Hermitage, and I luckily started at the top. Oily and peppery and so complex, if I had closed my eyes I never would have thought this was a white wine. Powerful.

4. Rosenblum Kick Ranch Reserve Syrah 2005 - Like an ultra-rich Cote-Rotie. Rich and almost gooey, yet not cloying. This is a bowl of fresh dark berries with a couple slices of smoked bacon floating on a bed of heavy cream. My most hedonistic wine of the year.

3. Cayuse En Chamberlin Syrah 2004 - I believe that Washington has one of the brightest futures of any wine region in the world. I also believe that Cayuse is one of the 10 finest wineries on the planet, and this Syrah was the most complex red wine that I tried all year. A medley of smoked meats dominates the nose, and the palate reveals over a dozen flavors to process. Not everyone who tried this wine last February liked it, as the smoky, meaty character might have been off-putting, but it was a near-perfect experience for me.

2. Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2002 - This list was basically set, until I had the opportunity to try this with Lance and Mike a couple days before the new year, and the rest is history. The best dessert wine I've ever had? Check. Sweet melon and honeysuckle flavors replaced by an incredibly fresh, zesty lemon flavor on the finish? Check. A finish that lasts forever? Check. Lush, silky mouthfeel? Check. This was simply an amazing experience.

1. Chateau Pichon Lalande 1989 - Despite having a boatload of outstanding wines the past few years, I think I was still waiting for that moment to happen. The moment when I tried a wine and suddenly felt justified spending $1,000 or more on a bottle. That moment when I knew what the experts were talking about when mentioning truly classic, life-changing wines. That moment when I'd sip a wine and remember it for the rest of my life. Well, that moment came last Spring as I sipped my first taste of the '89 Lalande, and as quickly as it hit my tongue the wine melted away. To say this wine had a great mouthfeel is the understatement of the year. Lance described it as "hot fat", and I'll always remember the incredulous look on his face when he first sipped it, not to mention the little dance May performed when she had a taste. It was a classic, life-changing wine.

Tasting Notes: Merlots and Merlot-Based Blends

2008-12-18T12:45:00.001-08:00

I don't have the exact date for this tasting, but I think it was Nov. 6. I've skipped over the blind tasting, because my notes are designed to help me identify the wines, not describe them. They're less detailed and more idiosyncratic than my normal notes, and they wouldn't make for good reading--assuming any of my notes ever do.

(Yes, I've posted my blind tasting notes in the past, but this time I really focused on identifying the wines and not on taking descriptive notes. Maybe that's why I landed Stimmels' first ever perfect score! Does this mean you can trust my palate? No, probably not--at least, not beyond my ability to tell a gossamer pinot noir from an oozing shiraz, and maybe a level or two in between. If anything, it just means I'm a decent test taker.)

Anyway, on to the Merlot notes:

1. Chateau Haut Surget Lalande de Pomerol 2003
Simple, decent, medium-bodied red, with aromas and flavors of plum, cranberry, and leathery earth. Moderate tannins.

2. Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2003
A touch tart, a touch tannic, this red would work well with a fatty dish like prime rib or even a richly-sauced salmon filet. Dark and earthy, with blackberry, spice, and tobacco flavors, and a nice crescendo of vanilla on the finish.

3. Dunham Cellars Trutina 2005
Definitely a new-world merlot, this red from Washington state is full-bodied and sweetly ripe--at first. An enticing nose of blackberry, black earth, spicy tar, and violets gives way to similar flavors, laced with orange-spiced dark chocolate and a finish suggestive of citrus essence. There is some undesirable tartness on the mid-palate, though. Like it. Don't love it.

4. Kathryn Kennedy Lateral 2003
There's a flavor in wines that I have trouble putting into words, so I just call it "Napa," since it's present in so many Napa wines. The closest I can come to describing it is to call it a cross between herbaceousness and earthiness--with maybe some aromatic spice thrown in. Anyway, this exceptionally smooth, medium-full-bodied merlot has "Napa" in spades, not to mention some deliciously rich cassis, spice, and eucalyptus notes. Very good.

5. Flora Springs Napa Valley Merlot 2002
This merlot, at six years old, seems to have begun its descent. The fruit is beginning to taste just a touch raisiny, but there are still some very nice pepper and spice notes. Don't wait to drink this one--maybe with a nice lamb tagine, for which the raisin-y note could in fact be an asset.

Tasting Notes (Oct. 16): Wicked, Good Wines

2008-12-04T11:36:00.001-08:00

Tonight's theme of "good vs. evil" gives new meaning to the term "wicked good." Here are the notes:

1. Chateau les Religieuses 2003
This is a very solid, though not mind-blowing, right-bank Bordeaux. It boasts a medium-full body, with flavors and aromas of blackberry, spice, damp leaves, and toast. The fruit is slightly tart, but the finish is long and tinged with an intriguing iron note.

2. Redemption Zin 2005
This is a big, juicy, full-bodied wine, with peppery, wild berry aromas and flavors of sweet cherry, rhubarb, and tobacco--all sheathed in rich vanilla. Think sweet barbecue.

3. Grant Burge "Holy Trinity" 2002
This smooth, full-bodied, ultra-sensuous wine comes at you with unmistakable aromas of dark berries, musk, and soy sauce. Sweetly ripe, it boasts big raspberry fruit, lots of pepper, and--as the nose forecasts--distinct notes of musk and soy. I have to admit that this almost over-ripe style of Aussie wine is not my favorite, but it's well done within that style. Try it for yourself.

4. Two Hands Angels Share Shiraz 2004
Most wine websites put an apostrophe before the "s" in "Angels," but there's not one on the label. Personally, I like the ambiguity of the apostrophe-less version. I also like this wine. It's classic shiraz: Full-bodied, with blackberry, pepper, spice, olive, and vanilla notes. Predictable? Perhaps. Beautifully executed? Absolutely.

5. "Evil" Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
This inexpensive cabernet ($10-12, if memory serves) boasts simple, juicy flavors and aromas of sweet cranberry with a touch of leather. Moderate tannins provide some grip and hold up the fruit nicely. Better than the 2006 vintage. A good value.

6. Trio Infernal Cuvee No. 1/3 2004
This Spanish blend of Garnacha (Grenache) and Carignan is full-bodied and smooth, with rich, enticing aromas and flavors of black cherry, licorice, tar, and toasty oak. Assertive tannins are still young; this wine drinks very well now but will be even better in 2-3 years.

7. Four Vines "The Heretic" Petit Syrah
This wine is rich, plump, and juicy, with easy-to-love flavors of dark berries, chocolate, spice, and cedar. Very nice.

Tasting Notes (Oct. 23): 7 (Awsome) Varietals

2008-11-19T17:25:00.000-08:00

I haven't been to a tasting in two weeks, but I suppose that's a good thing: no more of my notes have been piling up as my semester has spun wildly out of control in terms of workload. (In case you don't know and do care, for my day job I'm a professor, and this year I've had to jump over the many, high, work-multiplying hurdles that constitute the "third year review" for professors who--you guessed it--are in their third year). That's mostly over, I'm happy to say, and so, despite having many other irons in the proverbial fire, I should be able to find time to start catching up on my tasting notes.

And, for those of you who may have allowed yourselves to imagine that it is mere laziness on my part that has kept me from posting, you must also know that--my ego being what it is--I would never allow something as petty as being inhumanly busy keep me from bragging to the world that I nailed the last blind tasting, with a perfect 7 of 7 correct. But even that post is going to have to wait. It's not that I have any great reverence for putting my notes up in the order I took them, though that's been my M.O. It's just that, tonight, I'm at home, and the only set of tasting notes I have handy are the following ones.

But one last, quick word before I get to the notes. If you read this blog even remotely regularly, then you know two things about my notes. First, you know that, as a rule, I look for positive things to say about the wines I review. Second, you know that, on a rare occasion, saying something positive about a wine, or even offering an indifferent report of its qualities, is not possible. Why do I bring this up? Because this lineup was one of those amazing ones where every wine was at least good, with a few being real knockouts. I wouldn't want you to think my excessive praise of tonight's wines was feigned. It isn't. They're that good.

And now, the notes:

1. Zind Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim Heimbourg 2006 ($42.99/bottle)
The snappy acidity and taut minerality of this medium-bodied riesling hold fresh flavors of fuji apple and key lime in wonderfully poised, delicate suspension. The incredibly long, stony finish tastes like rain on limestone. Try this with boiled German-style sausages.

2. Hitchin Post "Highlighner" Pinot Noir 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Good acidity bouoys the rich, dark notes of black cherry, earth, and black licorice that define the palate. Medium-bodied and beautifully silky, with a finish that hints at medicinal herb. Very good.

3. Olek-Mery Chinon Cuvee des Tireaux 2004 ($26.99/bottle)
This medium- to full-bodied, cab franc-based red from France's Loire Valley boasts flavors and aromas of cherry and dark berry, roasted poblano peppers, and a veritable cloud of dust. This is a mood wine--something to break out if you're feeling austere and Old World. Or if you're having roast pork tacos.

4. Novelty Hill Merlot Columbia Valley 2004 ($23.99/bottle)
This is a really nice merlot. Chocolatey, spicey, and even a bit leathery, it is rich and mouthfilling. The long finish is all blueberry until, at about 45 seconds, the mineral notes begin to come out.

5. Paraiso Syrah "Wedding Hill" 2001 (47.99/bottle)
With aromas of dark berries, smoke, leather, and animal, and full-bodied flavors of sweet berry fruit, pepper, leather, and grilled meat, this syrah is every bit as rugged and masculine as its French counterpart, Hermitage. For a food pairing, think spit-roasted boar. Or, if you're a normal human, grilled steak. A great wine.

6. Rosenblum Zinfandel "Snows Lake Vineyard" 2005 ($37.99/bottle)
Rich, but not over the top, with ripe, rich aromas and flavors of black and blue berries, chocolate, spice, and bramble. Nicely balanced for a big zin.

7. Soos Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2002 ($34.99/bottle)
This cab is nice, spicy, and big, with a rich nose of currant, plum, choclate, and oak, and flavors of sweet currant, plum, spice, leather, and chocolate. Lush and tasty.

Tasting Notes (Oct. 2): By the Numbers

2008-10-30T13:04:00.000-07:00

All the wines for this tasting have numbers in their names. I give it a "10."

The notes:

1.Vinos de Terrunos "Siete" 2007 (Spain; $11.99/bottle)
This wine can be described as tinto fino flavors on a pinot noir frame. Light- to medium-bodied, with bright, uplifting acidity, it offers flavors of black cherry and tar, with leather and menthol emerging on the finish. This would be nice with grilled or roasted salmon. Good value.

2. Four Graces Pinot Noir 2006 (Oregon; $29.99/bottle)
This tasty pinot noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley is light- to medium-bodied, with deep, earthy, smoky nuances providing welcome depth to the bright fruit and buoyant acidity.

3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (California; $21.99/bottle)
This full-bodied brute does indeed have a sophisticated side, with a complex array of vanilla, black pepper, toasted spice, and chocolate adding nuance to the rich black raspberry fruit. One of my favorite zins.

4. Clos de los Siete 2005 (Argentina; $17.99/bottle)
This wine looks almost black in the glass, and the sight foreshadows what's to come: blackberry, black plum, tar, earth, and leather flavors infuse this medium-to-full-bodied red. Well-integrated tannins provide structure and grip. This could stay in the bottle another 2-3 years, but it's drinking nicely now. A great value.

5. L'Ecole No. 41 Apogee 2003 (Washington; $45.99/bottle)
This velvety, full-bodied Bordeaux style blend from Washington's Walla Walla valley is suffused with deeply aromatic, enticing sweet currant, cherry, leather, oak, and cinnamon flavors and aromas. The finish has a wonderful eucalyptus (eucalyptic?) quality. Very nice.

6. Hollywood and Vine 2480 2004 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This beautiful, full-bodied cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley was the star of tonight's lineup. It is satiny smooth, with bold, fine tannins and big but elegant notes of blackberry, oak, leather, spicy pepper, and coffee. Drinking beautifully now, it will nevertheless continue to harmonize for 5-7 or more years.

7. Marquis Phillips 9 2004 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
Marquis Phillips is one of those producers, like "R" Wines, whose wines always seem to outperform their price point. And, since M.P.'s wines tend to be more expensive than "R" Wines,' that's saying something. The "9" doesn't disappoint, with beautifully balanced flavors and aromas of blackberry, damp black earth, wet stone, black olive, and peppery spice. As you might expect, this shiraz is superripe and very full-bodied.

Tasting Notes (Sept. 25): Italian Wines and Lurker Call-Out

2008-10-02T12:53:00.000-07:00

You know how I feel about Italian wines. Enough said.

So, in lieu of a prefatory post, I'll just note that, not having access to any diagnostics (I am not this blog's owner, only a contributor), I have a hard time knowing who reads this blog. Beyond a few close friends who tell me from time to time that they caught a post, that is. So, if you're a "lurker" (as I am on several other blogs!), here's your chance--no, your charge: let me know you're here. It doesn't need to be anything profound. Even a simple "Hi!" would be fine with me. And if you just stumbled by here for the first time, we'd love to hear from you, too.

Now, the notes:

1. Torricino Greco di Tufo 2007 ($19.99/bottle)
This was my first wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape, and I liked it. Straw yellow, it reminds me of a cross between a crisp Chardonnay and a flinty Sauvignon Blanc. Light and zippy with acidity, it has clean citrus and tropical fruit notes, racy minerality, and a touch of nuttiness.

2. La Carraia Fobiano 1999 ($34.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautifully earthy, spicy nose, with tart, crisp black cherry, earth, and tobacco notes on the palate. It's not overly complex, but what's there is very good and would be even better with a rich, creamy cheese.

3. La Mozza Aragone 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
(Note: I did not read the Wine Advocate tasting notes, which also describe the wine as "brooding," until after I wrote my own. I almost never do.) This dark ruby red sangiovese-based blend has a dark, brooding nose of berries, violets, and (oddly) something like burnt sulfur. This same burnt note comes through on the palate, though the fruit, which is tart but ripe, shines. My notes are surprisingly consistent with Wine Advocate's, which note "scorched earth" instead of burnt sulfur. The only difference is that the WA critic (Galloni?) liked the scorchiness, and I didn't. I'd like to re-taste this one to see if my notes are consistent.

4. Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo 2003 ($42.99/bottle)
This is a beautiful Chianti. Medium-bodied and smooth as a just-waxed Ferrari, it boasts flavors of sweetly ripe black cherry, new leather, and spice, with a dark chocolate note emerging on the finish. Fine tannins and moderate acidity provide ample structure to hold the flavors up. This would be an extremely versatile food wine.

5. Villalta Amarone Classico "I Comunali" 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
So dark it's almost opaque, this Amarone nevertheless shows restraint on the palate, with full-bodied but not over-the-top flavors of plum, dark berries, white pepper, dust, and a slight meatiness. The long finish reveals a wonderful walnut note. Very nice, but will be even better in 3-5 years.

6. Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
Noting a deep brownish red, almost rusty color, I thought maybe this eight-year-old Brunello--a region whose best wines are legendary for their aging potential--could already be over the hill. But the aromas and flavors quickly set me straight. Ultra-smooth despite still-young tannins, it offers lively and well-harmonized berry, tar, oak, and violet flavors and aromas. This is one for the cellar, but in as few as 3-5 years it will be fantastic.

7. Giacomo Ascheri Barolo Podere di Sorano 2001 (59.99/bottle)
Neither the nose nor the palate gives up much, with some faint floral and oak notes, but the palate does have a richness and depth that suggests this one shouldn't be counted out just yet. It will only be after the vault of tannin finally opens (it's on a time-release, of course) that we'll know more. Try again in 3-5 years.

Tasting Notes (Sept. 18): Que Syrah Syrah

2008-09-24T11:40:00.000-07:00

Since I've gone to the more stripped down tasting notes for the time being (minus lengthy introductory comments), I've also decided to use the always clever Stimmel's titles to head my posts. (Where, before, I would come up with my own titles for entries.) This week's is one of my favorites.

The notes (as the title for the tasting reflects, all wines except the first one are composed entirely, or nearly entirely, of syrah):

1. Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2005 (France/Southern Rhone; $89.99/bottle)
This incredibly sensual, medium-bodied blend of Roussanne and white Grenache is dense with aromas and flavors of lemon curd, almonds, and bitter essential oils and has a long, nutty, minerally finish. Try this with meaty fish, like swordfish.

2. E. Guigal St. Joseph 2003 (France/Northern Rhone; $26.99/bottle)
This St. Joseph has a big nose of blackberries, lavender scrub, and earthy barnyard notes. On the full side of medium-bodied, it boasts spicy, peppery, and mineral-tinged flavors, with the scrub from the nose re-emerging (and the pepper intensifying) on the finish. Though the fruit could be just a bit fuller, this is a nice way into a good Northern Rhone wine for comparatively little money.

3. Chateau St. Michelle Columbia Valley 2002 (Washington; $31.99/bottle)
This syrah from Washington is the very epitome of a "New World" wine: full-bodied, rich, and boldly-flavored, with ripe plum, baking spice, and vanilla aromas and flavors. Still, these notes are nicely integrated, giving the wine a sense of balance that keeps it from going over the top. Nice.

4. Finca Sandoval 2002 (Spain/Castilla-La Mancha; $36.99/bottle)
The nose on this syrah blend from Spain's Castilla-La Mancha region (think Don Quixote) tells you right away that you're in for a special treat, with waves of plum, smoke, licorice, and earth emanating from the glass. On the palate, it is full-bodied and smooth as worn flannel, with flavors of sweet plum, earth, and rich tobacco. The long, hedonistic finish finds the licorice from the nose re-emerging. A beautiful wine.

5. Red Car Shake Rattlle and Roll 2005 (California; $59.99/bottle)
Another gorgeous syrah--what a lineup! The Red Car is truly the best of both worlds--Old and New, that is. Rich and full-bodied, it boasts flavors of ripe cherries, plums, and chocolate, with Cote-Rotie-like nuances of smoke and cured meats. The finish is long and--considering the ripeness of the fruit--wonderfully vibrant. Outstanding.

6. Oliver Hill Jimmy Section Shiraz 2005 (Australia/McLaren Vale; $35.99/bottle)
I've been a fan of the Jimmy Section for a while now, and what's not to like? Aussie-big and fruity, the nose offers black and blue berries, oak, and baking spices, with the faintest hint of black olive (but not the overripe kind one often finds in high end Aussie Shirazes). Flavors of dark fruit, licorice, and pepper are assertive but nicely balanced, making this very full-bodied, massively structured shiraz a joy to drink now, though it will continue to evolve in the bottle for up to 10 more years. The only off note: despite the wine's massive proportions, the 15% + alcohol can create a little heat, especially if the wine isn't kept on the cooler side of room temperature.

Tasting Notes (Sept. 11): Around the World (Abridged Version)

2008-09-14T19:45:00.000-07:00

While normally I try to include some kind of introductory comments to my tasting notes, there are times during my real job that compel me to streamline wherever I can, including the Stimmel's blog. So, for a few weeks anyway, I'm going with straight notes, free from introductory commentary. (My sense is that the notes are what people come for anyway--or, at least, that's my hope.)

1. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005 (France/Bordeaux; $130.99/bottle)
This is one of those wines you're excited to drink even though you know it's a crime to do it a mere three years after the vintage. Still, this very nice Bordeaux has a beautiful nose of currant, dried cranberry, leather, earth, and a touch of gravel. Despite being a young, tannic beast, it still gives hints of what it will be in 8-10 years: a dark, rich, earthy, silky beauty of a wine. Definitely one for the cellar.

2. Mateic EQ Syrah 2005 (Chile; $29.99/bottle)
This syrah immediately puts one in mind of the wines of the northern Rhone (though at a fraction of the cost of most good ones): medium-bodied, with meaty, peppery, and dusty berry and mineral flavors, it simply screams for a nice roasted leg of lamb, or even beef kebabs.

3. Scala Dei Cartoixa 2001 (Spain; $59.99/bottle)
This one is an all-around beautiful wine. It starts with aromas blackberry, licorice, coffee, and a hint of fragrant toasted almond. Medium-full bodied, with a wonderfully satiny mouthfeel, with enticingly earthy and aromatic flavors of dark, spicy fruit, with a bolt of anise up front and a dash of new leather on the finish. Very good now (think steak), but should continue to harmonize for another 3-5 years.

4. Ascheri Sorano Barolo 2001 (Italy; $59.99/bottle)
The brownish tint gives this wine away as the consummate old-world red, with a very sensual nose of barnyard, crushed violet, and chocolate, and silky smooth, full bodied flavors of black plum, cedar, tobacco, and a hint of dusty cocoa. Nicely integrated tannins and surprisingly buoyant acidity will give this very nice wine another 2-4 years' cellaring potential, though if it were in my cellar right now, I'd pop it tomorrow with an equally indulgent plate of duck ragout with wild mushrooms.

5. Showket Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (California; $89.99/bottle)
This Cab's very ripe, fruity nose is underscored by subtle earthy notes. Full bodied, with nice grip and flavors of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, bramble, and mint. This is a very nice wine.

6. Schild Barossa Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $28.99/bottle)
This is not your run-of-the-mill Aussie Shiraz, with an intensely musky nose and flavors of super-ripe blueberry, black olive, smoke, and musk. While it might not be my first choice for a day-in, day-out quaffer, I have to give it credit for taking a chance and actually being a sensual, even sense-challenging, wine. Definitely one to pop with grilled red meats.

7. Adelsheim Pinot Noir Deglace 2006 (Oregon; $34.99/bottle)
Dessert wines seem to be en vogue right now, so we shouldn't be surprised to see American producers trying them with grapes not normally associated with sweet wines (for another fun example, look for Meeker's Fro-Zin, a Zinfandel-based dessert wine). Such efforts tend to be hit or miss, but this one--while not earth-shattering--is quite nice, with aromas and flavors of baked cherries and enough acidity to keep the whole affair from being too heavy.

Tasting Notes (Aug. 28): Semantics Edition

2008-09-03T09:21:00.000-07:00

Tonight’s tasting theme was “decadence defined.” Now, it just so happens that "decadence" is one of those words I’ve been keeping my eye on. In the last 30 or so years (in other words, since I’ve been old enough to pay attention), there have been a few words whose meanings have changed right before our eyes. Take “literally,” for example. I have always been taught that it meant "actually." But, to a number of people—and it sure seems like that number has been steadily increasing, though I’ll concede that, as I’ve become a more astute observer of language, I may simply notice it more—“literally” is essentially a word that marks an extreme or intense state. So, for example, the statement, “I was so mad I literally hit the roof,” could be taken to mean that you really went on top of your house, made a fist (or perhaps you’re a martial arts, open-hand type), and smacked your shingles. But for most people it just means “I was extremely mad.”

And so it is with “decadence.” At some point during the Reagan ‘80’s (probably about the same point it seemed like a good idea to make the film Wall Street), the meaning of “decadence” shifted from “being in a state of decay, either caused by or symptomized by (or both) conspicuous and extreme excess” (think Roman vomiting troughs and orgiastic parties) to “extremely desirable—due to conspicuous and extreme excess.”

Obviously, it’s this second term that applies to tonight’s tasting. But I can’t help wondering what it says about our culture that conspicuous, extreme excess continues to be considered, almost thirty years after the Reagan era began, a sign of fine living rather than an indication that the whole idea of the rags-to-riches American Dream has jumped the shark.

As for this tasting, what saves it for me in the end is that, despite its title, the wines in the lineup really aren’t decadent so much as they are rich and full-bodied (Ok, the prices may be decadent, but that’s why we have small samples of these wines and then go buy a tasty $9.99 bottle of Chilean Cab Sauv.) The Standish Shiraz comes closest—Wine Advocate calls it “opulent”—though even it cannot touch the outrageously syrupy, oozing nectar that is Mollydooker’s “Carnival of Love.” Talk about decadent. (As I said when I reviewed it, you should try it if you have a chance, but it’s almost too much to take.) In fact, the next closest wine in the lineup to being decadent—the “Clio” from El Nido—is definitely ripe and rich, but it is also so superbly balanced and precisely focused that it does not seem excessive at all when you drink it.

I don’t mean to quibble with Bill about terms: a) it’s his store, and he runs the show, and b) I’m sure the actual name for the theme of the tasting is of exceedingly minor importance compared to the formidable task of assembling such a marvelous lineup of rich, full-bodied wines. Indeed, this post may seem like a lot of energy to devote to something as ho-hum as word choice for a wine tasting theme, and you might even be thinking by now (if you haven’t stopped reading altogether), “Who cares?” I do, for one. Before I was a half-cocked amateur wine critic I was, and am, a professor of rhetoric. It’s in my nature to pay attention to the sometimes extraordinary meanings that inhere in mundane language, as well as to share what I find with others. And, if you have made it this far into this post, then I have done what I set out to do: there’s no way, after today, that you’ll ever hear the word “decadent” again without giving it at least a second thought.

Now, the notes:

1. Merryvale Profile 2002 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine has a great nose, with cassis, baked cherry, leathery spice, and just the right amount of toasty oak. The full-bodied palate reveals young, dark flavors of black cherry, bitter leather, chocolate, and spice with big, scratchy tannins dominating the profile (no pun intended). This is a wine to come back to in 3-5 years to see if it has come into balance, because if it does, it's going to be a knockout.

2. Lagier Meredith Syrah 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
The nose on this mountain-grown Syrah is big and fruity, with ripe plums and berries supporting secondary notes of spice and creamy vanilla. Full-bodied, with wonderfully bright acidity, it offers flavors of dark berries and black pepper with an enticing eucalyptus note on the finish. The tannins are nicely integrated. Try this syrah with grilled meat.

3. Conn Valley Right Bank 2005 ($54.99/bottle)
"Right Bank" refers to the right bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux, where blends tend to be based on Merlot instead of Cabernet Sauvignon. And this wine is surprisingly Bordeaux-like, with earth and leather coming through on the nose and flavors of tart but ripe plum, tobacco, soil, and a hint of black licorice. Full-bodied with soft tannins, this is a beautiful wine that would pair perfectly with lamb or prime rib.

4. El Nido Clio 2005 ($59.99/bottle)
The nose on this very rich Monastrell blend from Jumilla, Spain makes you think it's going to be way over-the-top, even (dare I say?) decadent, with aromas of super-ripe crushed blueberries, vanilla, cream, and toasty spice. Nevertheless, the voluptuous but well-structured palate displays breathtaking balance, even finesse, with an almost refreshingly minty finish that makes you want another sip. You could drink this masterpiece of a wine with food, but why would you want to?

5. The Standish Shiraz 2003 ($79.99/bottle)
This Aussie Shiraz is big, thick and almost over-ripe. The nose offers pronounced aromas of caramelized sugar, smoke, and soft black olives, while the palate shows dark flavors of ripe blackberry, black olive, and a blast of black pepper. This wine is definitely indulgent, and it does a nice job as such, but it would be hard to justify buying a bottle when I know it's in the same price range as D'Arenberg's nearly perfect Dead Arm Shiraz and a number of other stunningly rich and balanced Aussie Shirazes.

6. Caldwell Red Wine 2004 ($104.99/bottle)
This nice, dark, full-bodied red shows flavors and aromas of very ripe, smoky plum, oak, and black olive, with some licorice on the finish.

7. Presidential NV 20-Year Port ($46.99/bottle)
Once you get past the formiddable alcohol (20%), there is a beautifully aromatic and tasty blend of caramel, vanilla, and orange/gran marnier waiting. A definite choice for those NW Ohio winters.

Tasting Notes (July 24): Stag's Leap

2008-08-14T12:52:00.000-07:00

While I don't know for sure, I feel safe in saying that this tasting was the most geographically specific one in Stimmels' history. The Stag's Leap American Viticultural Area (AVA) is actually a tiny sub-region inside the already-smallish Napa Valley in California. Located along a short stretch of the Vaca mountain range, which forms the eastern border of the valley, Stag's Leap is home to some of my favorite wineries anywhere, not the least of which is the legendary Stag's Leap Wine Cellars--whose flagship "S.L.V." Cabernet Sauvignon stunned the wine world in 1976 by besting a slew of top French Bordeauxs in the infmaous "judgment of Paris." Unfortunately, the S.L.V. couldn't be a part of this lineup, and my other favorite Stag's Leap Cab, from Regusci, had been poured too recently to be included. Still, this was a great night of wine, and I have to say that, while the Shafer was clearly the best wine overall, the Stags' Leap Winery's (note: not the same as the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, but rather a different winery altogether) Petit Syrah (normally spelled Petit Sirah) was a brilliant offering as well.

Now the notes:

1. Oberon Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
If memory serves, this was the only wine in the lineup not at least partially sourced from Stag's Leap (which, as I understand it, is too cool to produce great Sauv Blancs). The classic nose shows citrus, grass, and a subtle chive note. Light-medium bodied, with a pleasingly bold shock of acidity animating fresh, clean citrus and herbal flavors. The finish has an interesting minerally tinge. I tasted several Sauv Blancs in Napa Valley recently, and many of them were flabby and uninteresting. Not this one. Seek it out.

2. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2006 ($33.99/bottle)
This medium bodied Chard is made in a crisp style, with aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, minerals, and smoke. A light touch of butter adds depth without weighing the wine down. Perfect for Lobster--which I know you (yeah, you) eat all the time!

3. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Merlot 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
SLWC is known for its Merlot, so I was excited to try this one. The nose doesn't disappoint, with a complex mix of spicy plum, oak, pencil lead, and dry brown dirt. Flavors of tart but ripe plums, tar and earth, however, are virtually sandblasted away by scratchy tannins. If the fruit holds out, this could still be a nice wine in a few years. Let's hope. Try this one in 2-5 years to see if it's more accessible.

4. Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
This full bodied Cab has a rich, plump nose of cassis, leather, cinnamon, and violets. With a beautiful, velvety mouthfeel, it offers flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa, and black licorice. Dark, rich, and big, with medium-grained tannins providing plenty of "grip." Nice.

5. Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.99/bottle)
Stag's Leap reds often hint of the Old World, with subtle earthy notes not common in the rest of the valley. The Silverado Cab was the one in tonight's lineup that came closest to fitting this mold, with aromas of blackberry, mushroom, dark chocolate, and a touch of smoke. On the palate it is full bodied and ripe, with flavors of sweet berries, peppery spice, and a little bit of tobacco. The big fruit and assertive tannins should harmonize in 5-7 years. I can't wait.

6. Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five 2004 ($75.99/bottle)
Clearly the star in this lineup, the Shafer is a beautiful, full bodied wine. The nose shows cassis, black earth, and violets, while the dark, rich, chocolatey palate is buttressed by firm but fine tannins. The finish is wonderfully dark and bitter. As I tasted this wine, I wanted an equally rich prime rib to go with it.

7. Stag's Leap Winery Petit Syrah 2005 ($38.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, jammy nose with notes of smoke, menthol, and caramel. Very full bodied, this wine is big, tannic, and rich, with flavors of dark fruits and smoke and a big, licoricey finish. A real eye-opener. What to pair it with? Grilled steak, grilled steak, grilled steak. Or maybe grilled steak.

Tasting Notes (July 17): Spanish Wines Are Good

2008-07-26T20:17:00.000-07:00

More and more, I'm convinced that Spain is the way to go for value wines. Whether $10, $20, $30 or more, it's a good bet that whatever Spanish wine you're drinking will outperform its price point. That's not to say that Spain isn't also turning out mediocre and poor wines. Every wine-producing region in the world turns out lackluster wines. But Spain consistently produces some amazing surprises. Just look at Vina Alarba, Las Rocas, and Altos de Luzon, all of which provide exceptional quality at a very affordable price, and--in the slightly more expensive range--Bodega Numanthia, whose "Termes" can be a revelation at less than $40.

Not only that, but Spain also has the added distinction of producing, with equal aplomb, both "Old World" and "New World" styles of wines, where "Old World" denotes wines of finesse and subtlety, often with elegant but not overpowering fruit and distinctly earthy notes, and "New World" denotes more thick, juicy, fruit-forward wines with real oomph. (Think about the difference between a sauce based on a flavorful broth versus a sauce based on a heavily-reduced stock, and you'll have something of an idea: both are extremely satisfying, but they have very different textures and viscosities.)

So, if you're looking for a good value and are tired of the same old Aussie fruit bombs (Milton Park--I'm looking at you), you could do a lot worse than to take a vinous trip to Spain.

Now, the notes:

1. Adegas Morgadio Albarino 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This lightly creamy white has a nose of apples and what I can only describe as chicken searing in olive oil. Medium-bodied, it boasts flavors of apple, bitter herbs, and a crescendo of white pepper from the back end to the finish. Try pairing this pleasant wine with light, flaky fish or scallops.

2. Vinicola del Prioriat "Onix" 2005 ($14.99/bottle)
This wine is always hailed as a "best value," and when I tried it a year ago, I didn't see what the fuss was about. Now, with another year of bottle age, its firm tannins have softened a bit and the flavors have begun to blossom. Both the nose and the palate show rich, meaty blackberry, vanilla, and mineral notes. Full-bodied and smooth, though it could still use another year or two to fully come into its own.

3. Can Blau 2006 ($17.99/bottle)
A great value, this medium-full-bodied red has a rich nose of plums, violets, and baking spices. Dark, earthy flavors of spices, wet leaves, and smoked bologna are buoyed by vibrant acidity. Try this one with cured sausage.

4. San Vicente Rioja 2001 ($39.99/bottle)
This tempranillo-based wine has a fantastic, super-earthy nose of worn leather, wet soil, and graphite. Sweetly ripe, with a smooth, medium body and flavors of double-shot mocha, black cherry, and graphite. Still-gripping tannins and sprightly acidity will allow this wine to age gracefully for 3-5 or more years. Think beef stew with lots of mushrooms for a food pairing.

5. Mas Doix Salanques 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is sharp and tarry, with additional wildflower and raspberry cola notes. Lively acidity and cola notes on the palate put one in mind of Pinot Noir, but then a torrent of meaty and tarry flavors whisk you quickly back to Priorat.

6. Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
This smooth, rich, medium-full-bodied garnacha (grenache) has a nose of crushed black and blue berries, vanilla, clove, and cinnamon and flavors of blueberry, vanilla, spice, and pepper notes. Reminds me of a slightly lighter-bodied Aussie Shiraz.

7. Lese Eres Vinyes Velles Priorat 2001 ($64.99/bottle)
The nose on this red offers bold wild berry, meat, and violet notes. On the palate it is brambly and spicy, with dark, tarry notes and black cherry and cranberry fruit. Finishes fresh and tart. Would be ideal for bolognese or other red meat sauce dishes.

Tasting Notes (July 10): Call Me Wopner

2008-07-22T18:55:00.000-07:00

This theme-based tasting was called "Stimmel's Court," and, res ipsa loquitur, the wines speak for themselves:

1. "The Consultant" Chardonnay 2005 (California; <$20, I think)
Perhaps enrolled in the vitis protection program, this medium-bodied Chardonnay does not show up on the tasting sheet and seems intentionally secretive of its origins. (Even a Google search only turns up the name of the Chardonnay and an "importer"--of this California wine, no less--called Billington Wines.) What I do know is that it has aromas and flavors of apples, butter, smoke, and minerals, with a streak of bitter anise running through the finish. Not bad at all.

2. Shinas Estate "The Innocent" Viognier 2007 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
If you're not used to drinking Viognier, you might call this wine "stinky." I prefer to call it aromatic, with notes of cantaloupe, peaches, and musk on the nose. Medium-full-bodied, this oh-so-lightly sweet white shines with flavors of sweet peach and pear and a white pepper-laced finish. Lively acidity keeps the wine seeming fresh despite its viscosity. Really nice.

3. Shinas Estate "The Guilty" Shiraz 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
Another nice wine from Shinas, this is pretty textbook Aussie Shiraz, with blueberry, pepper, spice, and tar aromas and flavors. The only departure is a hint of bramble as well, giving it a slightly wild, adventurous edge.

4. Shinas Estate "The Verdict" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Australia; $24.99/bottle)
This full-bodied red has a lovely nose of black currants, earth, violets, and just a tiny hint of barnyard. On the palate, sweetly ripe black currant starts the show, only to give way to a disappointing greenish/woody note. After a couple sips, however, this off green wood taste morphed into a more pleasant hoisin-like quality (for me, anyway; who knows what it may do for you). An interesting wine, though the other Shinas Estate offerings in this lineup outshine it by a considerable margin.

5. Orin Swift "The Prisoner" 2005 (California/Napa Valley; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend is a perennial favorite at Stimmel's tastings, and with good reason. A tantalizing nose of blackberry, black plum, bramble, and pepper gives way to a gripping, full-bodied palate, offering flavors of sweet blackberry liquer, peppery spice, mocha, and red and black licorice. "The Prisoner" is big and rich but exquisitely balanced. I love this wine.

6. Ahnfeldt "Quid Pro Quo" Blend 2003 (California/Napa Valley; $69.99/bottle)
This full-bodied, Merlot-based, Bordeaux-style blend has a nice nose of plums, flowers, earth, and leathery spice. On the palate, it shows very nice flavors of black currant, spice, licorice, and a hint of mushroom-y earth. Gripping but fine tannins and good fruit mean this wine will age gracefully for at least another five years.

7. Chateau Les Justices Sauternes 2003 (France; $52.99/bottle)
This may not be the steel trap of a Sauternes that the 2001 Chateau D'Yquem is, but it has its charms nonetheless. Aromas and flavors of pineapple, lemon curd, and smoky jasmine vibrate on a taught string of acidity, with an intriguing menthol note emerging on the long finish.

Tasting Notes (July 3): Franc the Tanc

2008-07-06T13:11:00.000-07:00

In the movie Old School, Frank "The Tank" Ricard is in the inner sanctum of cool, being one of the three people responsible for founding the fraternity of misfits whose antics drive the film's plot (and most of the gags). Nevertheless, Frank--who's lots of fun but lacks solidity of character (to say the least; that's like saying NW Ohio lacks mountains)--continually takes a back seat to the other two members of the inner sanctum: the staid, reliable Mitch and the boldly charismatic entrepreneur Beanie. But, by the end of the movie, Frank has been given a few chances to shine on his own. Sure, he may not always come through, shooting himself in the neck with a tranquilizer gun or setting himself on fire while dressed in a cougar suit. But every once in a while, he rises to the occasion, stunning critics with a heartfelt rhythmic ballet routine or mystically channeling his inner wonk to school James Carville in the finer points of U.S. biotech policy.

So it is with Cabernet Franc. Like Frank, Franc is also in an inner sanctum, being one of the three indispensable red grapes of Bordeaux. (We'll leave number four, Petit Verdot, for another post.) And, like Frank, Franc always takes a back seat to its two friends, the staid, reliable Merlot and the boldly charismatic Cabernet Sauvignon. After all, when's the last time you had a glass of Cab Franc (other than this tasting)? Compare that to the last Cab Sauv or Merlot you've had, and you'll likely get the point. And there's no doubt that Cab Franc, on its own, sometimes lacks solidity of character, perhaps showing flashes--or should I say streaks--of brilliance but not able to sustain a full, developed flavor arc, which is what makes it such a good blending wine. (That may also be what makes the grape insecure and prone to saying things like, "Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low"). But every once in awhile, it truly sings on its own, with supple fruit, deep, seductive earth and leather notes, and an intriguing floral quality that places it among the most irresistable wines you're likely to come across. And when that happens, there's only one term to describe drinking such a wine. Yep, you guessed it: old school.

Unfortunately, my notes got lost in a frenzy of mid-summer housecleaning. But I can tell you that, despite the fact that the big, rich, Cab Sauv-like Reverie was the clear crowd favorite (not to mention a big winner for Robert Parker), Daniele and I both were quite taken by the Steltzner Cab Franc. Subtle, with notes of leather and tobacco, it combines the best of old world flavors and aromas with new-world (but not overdone) ripeness. If you're feeling like dropping $30-40 on an elegant, sensuous bottle of wine, try the Steltzner Cab Franc. Or, if you want to spend just a bit more (if memory serves) on a ripe, rich, velvety wine, go with the crowd and try the Reverie. Either way, you'll come out a winner. (Specific vintage information is available on the tasting sheet; or just ask Sara if you see her.)

Tasting Notes (June 19): I'm No Miles

2008-06-24T07:32:00.000-07:00

It's the most famous line about wine in recent film history, and maybe in all of film history:

"If anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am not drinking any f---ing Merlot!"

The film, of course, is Sideways, and with these words Miles--the self-loathing writer, Pinot Noir lover, and arbiter of taste for would-be wine snobs across the nation--sounded the death-knell of the Merlot glut of the 90's and issued in the era of Pinot envy. (Though, truth be told, Merlot sales actually went up after the film's release, at least according to the woman in the tasting room at Beaulieu Vineyards.) Nowadays, one can hardly go to a party or a tasting without someone proclaiming, "I'm not a big fan of Cabernet. I like Pinots." True, maybe some of them came by their opinions honestly. But I hear that same sentiment uttered often enough to make me think there are lots of wine drinkers out there who just do what the latest screenwriter or best-selling author tells them to do.

So why should we care? Normally, I wouldn't, but the law of supply and demand says that the more people who want to drink Pinot Noir, the more money wineries, distributors, and merchants can charge for it. That's why you can hardly find a decent--not great, mind you, but decent--bottle of the stuff for under $20. Fortunately for me, and Pinot Noir notwithstanding, I happen to like Cabernet Sauvignon (bane of party goers everywhere, it would seem). I also like Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Carmenere, and Pinotage, to name a few of my favorite reds. In fact, the one thing I do come close to wine snobbery about has nothing to do with the price of the bottle, the prestige of the winery, or even the quality of the wine (the evaluation of which is very subjective). Instead, I'm snobbish in my conviction that, if you want to call yourself a wine lover, you should at least try to appreciate a range of colors, bodies, styles, and flavors. Besides, when you don't have a mint to spend on wine, broad-ranging taste is an assett.

Still, I do like a good Pinot. I have to admit, though, that what I consider to be a "good Pinot" doesn't mesh perfectly with popular or critical tastes. I prefer the softer, rounder, more full-bodied style (the Sanford below is a good example) to the more elegant, crisp-almost-to-the-point-of-effervescence style (the Beaux Freres below isn't this way in the extreme, but it does flirt with it). Don't get me wrong--a good Pinot Noir has to have a good backbone of acidity, and the best ones will be infused with seductive, earthy notes. It's just that the austere snap that makes Pinot so exciting for many wine lovers can, for me, be taken too far.

In sum, I will gladly drink "f---ing Merlot," along with all the other varietals I mention above (not to mention the gamut of white wines, all of which can be delicious). And, of course, that includes Pinot Noir. To come at wine from any other direction is, to my mind, to come at it sideways.

Now, the notes:

1. Leroy Bourgone 1999 ($44.99/bottle)
This basic Burgundy has a nice, balanced nose of baked plums, dried leaves, damp earth, and spice and has a light-medium body on the palate. A very earthy core is infused with black cherry, licorice, and spice notes, with fine tannins and a long, peppery finish.

2. Sanford Santa Rita Hills Sanford & Benedict Vineyard 2002 ($49.99/bottle)
The nose is ripe, rich, and plummy, with some woody and sweet tar notes. Medium bodied, with a smooth, silky mouthfeel, this Pinot boasts flavors of dark plum and berry, toast, and new leather, all strung on a taught but not overwhelming rope of acidity. The long finish is pure black tea. Spectator gave this one 87; I'd bump it up 5 points. Excellent.

3. Taz Fiddlestix Vineyard 2005 ($36.99/bottle)
This silky, medium bodied Pinot offers aromas of cherry and raspberry cola and a lightly floral perfumed note. Snappy acidity gives lift to flavors of cola, tea, and smoke. The finish is dark and herbal. Nice.

4. Etude Pinot Noir 2004 ($42.99/bottle)
The nose is pure Old World, dominated by wild mushrooms, minerality, and barnyard notes. Medium bodied, with black cherry and plum fruit, mountains of black soil, and cigarette tobacco on the palate. This is a beautifully sensuous, seductive wine.

5. Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post Highlighner 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Smooth and medium bodied with sprightly acidity, this Pinot offers aromas of straight cola, peppery spice, and flowers, and flavors of sweet dark berries, tar, cola, and a hint of earth. This is a nice, solid wine.

6. Beaux Freres Ribbon Ridge Vineyard 2006 ($79.99/bottle)
Black cherry, toasted wood, and rich perfumed spice aromas give way to a medium bodied palate. Flavors of sweet cherry, red and black licorice, and spice seem to jump around on your tongue, so kinetic is the acidity. As my introductory comments imply, this is not my ideal style of Pinot. But becuase it has some richness for balance, it is a very good example of that style. If you like your Pinots lively, you will love this one.

Tasting Notes (June 12): La Dolce (e Amaro) Vita

2008-06-20T07:21:00.000-07:00

"and so she seems a wondrous thing sent down from heaven to earth"

The great Florentine poet Dante Alighieri wrote these words in the 1300's, and they would seem to be a simple celebration of the divinely beautiful woman who is the subject of the poem. But a closer look reveals a separation, a distance, between the speaker and this ideal woman: by virtue of her divinity, she can never be his. He knows this, of course, but, like many poets of the time, Dante (or, more accurately, his narrative voice) delights in the paradoxically painful pleasure that worshipping her from afar offers. Indeed, it is to Dante, Petrarch, and other inheritors of the Troubadour tradition that we owe the greatest debt for the prevalence of this concept in our own cultural traditions and forms, from Juliet's "parting is such sweet sorrow" to John Cougar Mellencamp's "hurt so good." (Yes, I just implicitly compared JCM to Shakespeare, but I'm on a roll, so I'm going with it.)

So powerful is this idea, in fact, that it's no stretch at all to transfer it from the sight of a beautiful person to the taste of a stunning wine. Great wines, like all great experiences in life, never satisfy completely. It's easy, that is, to toss back a glass or two (or three) of a juicy, inexpensive Shiraz with an equally juicy burger and settle into an evening of fine contentment. But not so with your more stratospheric wines. Maybe they tease one into regret, into thinking that in another year or two they would have offered even more. Maybe their complexity overwhelms the senses, so that the part of you that wants to put the experience into words can never quite catch up with the torrent of flavors and textures rushing over your palate. Or, maybe, they are so hauntingly delicious that as soon as you finish the bottle you begin dreaming about the next one. Whatever the reason, it is this play between pleasure and desire, between satiety and appetite, that makes wine "a wondrous thing sent down from heaven to earth." And, like Italian poets, Italian wines compel us to celebrate this paradox of the human condition: the things we desire the most are the things we can never fully have.

Now, the notes:

1. Gaja Rossj-Bass Chardonnay 2006 ($48.99/bottle)
As utterly beautiful as a couple of the reds in this lineup were, it was this chardonnay that I found myself thinking about in the week following the tasting. Medium-bodied and exquisitely balanced between crispness and richness, this wine offers aromas and flavors of citrus, melon, and gunflint-like minerality, with even a faint nuttiness emerging on the back end. The long finish is deliciously stony. Outstanding.

2. Petra Ebo Val di Cornia 2003 ($19.99/bottle)
This red from the coast of Tuscany has a beautiful nose of black cherry, leather, clove, and dried leaves and flavors of sweet blackberry liqueur, sour cherry, tobacco, and black licorice. Medium-full bodied, with fine, drying tannins on the long, anise-laden finish. Very nice, and a great value at <$20. Drink now through 2013.

3. Monsanto Chianti Riserva 2003 ($24.99/bottle)
This medium-bodied red offers aromas of plum, leather, oak, and spice, and flavors of tart but ripe cherry, plum, leather, and earth. It ends with a long, dark finish. Nice acidity for pairing with a wide variety of foods, from pasta with red sauce to grilled rib eye.

4. Capezzana Ghiaie Della Furba 2000 ($55.99/bottle)
This red has a wonderful nose of grilled plums, tree bark, and sweet woodland flowers. Big, bold flavors of ripe berries, lots of leather, and dusty pepper lead into a long, pancetta-laced finish. Every wine in this lineup has been very nice, and this one is no exception.

5. Ceretto Barolo Prapo 2001 ($87.99/bottle)
In this full-bodied red from the Piedmont, the nose of mixed berries, dark brown sugar, and road tar is buoyed by a bright floral note. On the palate it is both massive and luxuriously silky, with flavors of blackberry, red currant, toasty oak, leather, and spice. Big and tannic--think meat roasted on a spit for an ideal food pairing--this is the liger of wines: a cross flavor-wise between the lion of Chianti and the tiger of Bordeaux, it is bigger and more powerful than both. Outstanding.

6. Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001 ($99.99/bottle)
The nose on this red is subtle and caramelly, with a distinct animal/barnyard character and a hint of charred wood. The palate offers enticing flavors of ripe black fruits, sweet spiced orange, tobacco, and a hint of dark chocolate. The long finish is dark, bitter, and very sensuous. Very smooth, and very tannic, this wine is drinking well now but needs several years to fully come into its own.

Tasting Notes (May 29): Armageddon Reds

2008-05-31T18:25:00.000-07:00

I kept waiting for the bad news. Stimmel’s was moving to Findlay. Wine was being outlawed in Ohio. The Rapture had begun. (For some that last one would no doubt be good news; for me, it would be very, very bad.) Why else would I be drinking my first Chateau Haut-Brion and my first Opus One—two of the most sought after cabernet-based wines in the world—on the same night, not to mention a 1988 Sauternes, one of the best Shirazes in the world, and the very highly regarded Toro wine Numanthia? It couldn’t simply be that I’m one lucky sunnovab—er, guy.

But nothing happened. I drank the wines. I watched a ballgame. I went to bed, got up, had my day. And now I’m sitting here at midnight writing this post (and finishing it the next evening, still untouched by the fates). Happily and not a little bit surprisingly, life went, and goes, on.

Not unchanged, though. You can’t experience a tasting like this one and be the same after it. And, contrary to what you might think, not all of the changes one experiences after tasting some of the world’s best wines in one sitting are positive—at least, not the ones I experienced. Specifically, I have a nagging sense that, even though the Earth didn’t open up and swallow me or (I suspect) any of the other tasters whole Thursday night, I, a lowly assistant professor of English, have some karmic comeuppance in store for daring to find fault—any fault—in this by-all-accounts-stellar lineup. I just can’t help it, though. A 2000 Opus One is going to sing like a chorus of angels when up against your run-of-the-mill Cali cab. But after a 1991 Ridge Monte Bello, it’s going to seem a little lean. It’s just the nature of things.

So despite—or, better yet, because of—my hubris at even thinking about passing judgment on some of the world’s finest wines, I throw myself on the mercy of the universe. After all, if there are more things in Heaven and Earth than are dreamt of in my philosophy, maybe one of them can help me out here, because I’m clearly in over my head.

Now, the notes:

Chateau Haut-Brion 2004 (France; $269.99/bottle)
Still extremely young, this first-growth Bordeaux is dark red in color, with a nose of rich, ripe currant, earth, worn leather, and wet stone. Even though the wine is very tight and the tannins are young, the perfect, silky texture still manages to shine through with ease. Big flavors of black plum and leather should soften and become more nuanced over the next 5 – 20 years.

Ridge Monte Bello 1991 (California; $199.99/bottle)
The 1992 Monte Bello is in my top two or three wines ever, and this one—one year older—is easily in my top fifteen. Brick red with little to no brown showing on the edge, it has a rich nose of dark berries, chocolate, smoky spice, and pencil lead. The mouthfeel on this full-bodied Bordeaux-style blend is pure satin, with very fine tannins and a luxurious, long finish. On the palate, an enticing smoky note infuses flavors of blackberry, peppery spice, and a hint of dill.

Opus One 2000 (California; $151.99/bottle)
Brick red with browning edges and a prominent pencil shaving note on the nose, this perennial Napa Valley star is showing more age than you might expect for only being eight years old. It is medium-full bodied with bright acidity and flavors of black currant, plum, pencil shavings, and a hint of pepper. The long finish is graphite-filled. Very good, but not the powerhouse I expected.

Kosta Brown Russian River Pinot Noir 2006 (California; $69.99/bottle)
While pinot noirs have so far been easy for me to pick out in Stimmels’ blind tastings, I find them very difficult to describe in tasting notes. Because I drink far more full-bodied reds like cabernet and shiraz than I do lighter-bodied pinots, my descriptive vocabulary for those wines is correspondingly more developed. Anyway, long disclaimer short: while I wait until after I take my notes to read the “official” notes on the tasting card, I find myself wanting to just substitute them for mine, since, when I read them, I thought, “Yes, that’s exactly right.” Still, here are mine, for what they’re worth: on the full side of medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of bright cherry, forest floor, earth, and violets, with something also vaguely coffee/toffee-like.

Numanthia 2005 (Spain; 69.99/bottle)
This red from the Toro region in Spain has an interesting nose, showing black plum, chocolate, vanilla, and a ghost of something reminiscent of farmer’s cheese. (It’s the cheese part that makes the nose so interesting; I’d call it an off note if it weren’t so faint and if it showed up on the palate, which it doesn’t). It has a rich but elegant palate of blackberry, chocolate, pine, and mint, with a flannel-like mouthfeel and bold but fine tannins. The finish is mint and licorice-laced. Very nice, but needs 3-5 years minimum in the bottle before it will really show what it’s made of.

D’Arenberg The Dead Arm 2004 (Australia; $79.99/bottle)
Deep opaque purple, this Aussie Shiraz has shows blueberry, black olive, pepper, and menthol on the nose. The superripe, full-bodied palate is spicy and rich, with a riot of dark berry fruit and lots of spicy pepper. The finish is very long and reminiscent of dried scrub and black olives (not unlike what the French call “garrigue”).

Chateau Rieussec 1988 (France; $129.99/bottle)
This very distinctive, personality-laden dessert wine from Sauternes has a deep, golden yellow color suggestive of nearly two decades of bottle age. The nose reveals honey, crème brulèe, smoke, and baked pineapples, while the flavors suggest sweet honeysuckle, canned pear juice, amaretto, and a light hint of smoke. The very long finish is surprisingly spicy and cigar-like. Good acid to keep things in balance.

Tasting Notes (May 8): I'm going to Napa!

2008-05-14T18:13:00.000-07:00

I have two sets of notes still on the line from past tastings, but since I'll be leaving for Napa Valley in two days (woohoo!), I thought I'd go ahead and post the notes from the most recent Thursday tasting, California Cabs. Besides, I've been doing some reflecting on these posts, and it occurs to me that if I were coming to Stimmels' blog to read somebody else's tasting notes, I'd get a lot more enjoyment out of it if I were reading notes from a tasting still fresh in my mind. So, here are the freshest notes I have, and the ones I'm totally jazzed about, because--did I mention?--I'm going to Napa in two days. I don't know what my internet access situation will be there, but if it's reasonable, I'll throw up a quick post or two (maybe with pictures) from the road. "Stimmel's on Location," here I come!

Now, the notes. All wines except the Pilliteri Ice Wine are from California; more specific American Viticultural Areas are listed when applicable:

1. Cartlidge and Browne 2006 (California; $12.99/bottle)
California cabs as a group aren't making anybody's list for "best values:" they're good, and their prices usually show it. That's what makes this wine so nice. There may be better $12.99 bottles in the store (especially from South America, Spain, Australia, or even South Africa), but as a Cali Cab, this one is quite a value, delivering solid quality for not much money. It is medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, cedar, and violets. (This is an especially good value when you consider that as I write this I'm drinking a $15.99 bottle of Michael Pozznan Annabella Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and it's not as good as the C&B.)

2. Joseph Phelps Napa 2003 (Napa; $49.99/bottle)
2003 was a tough year for Napa, and while this is definitely not a bad wine, and is even by some measures a good one, you get a sense that the folks at Phelps had to do a lot of manipulating during the winemaking process to get the wine up to expectations. Vanilla stands out on both the nose and the full-bodied palate, slightly cloaking what are otherwise very nice ripe currant, earth, and spice notes. One wonders whether a bit of extra oak wasn't necessary to make up for an otherwise lean vintage.

3. Regusci Stags Leap 2005 (Stag's Leap/Napa; $54.99/bottle)
This wine was a pleasant surprise. Not that I wasn't expecting it to be good; I was--very good. But the prominent graphite notes and even a touch of barnyard to go with the more conventional blackberry, spice, and toasty oak gave it an unexpected old world quality (it reminds me of a cab-based Tuscan). Good acidity and solid but fine tannic structure, with some additional tar notes emerging on the finish. Very nice.

4. Parallel Napa 2005 (Napa; $59.99/bottle)
The nose on this full-bodied red offers dark berries, black currant, toasty oak, and aromatic wildflowers--very sensual. Beautifully smooth on the palate, with rich tannins and flavors of currant, cherry, spice, and toasty oak. Great now; I'd love to come back in 5 or even 10 years and try it again. (I don't understand why Spectator gave it 85; I'd go a full 5-7 points higher.)

5. Caymus Napa 2005 (Napa; $75.99/bottle)
The Caymus has a nice nose of purple and dark fruits, spice, and lots of appealing damp earth. The palate is full-bodied, with a very smooth, almost lanolin mouthfeel. This cab is big, tannic, and young, but even now the flavors of black plum, black currant, black earth, and spicy tar show nicely. I sense even more trhing to come through; needs 3-5 years minimum and will be good for another 10+ years.

6. D.R. Stephens Napa Moose Valley Vineyard 2003 (Napa; $99.99/bottle)
The nose is complex but balanced, with classic cab notes of currant, earth, oak, and spice. The palate shows sweet ripe currant and dark berries, earth, and spice, with a hint of black licorice and a long, earthy finish. Full-bodied, with a smooth, satiny mouthfeel and firm but integrated tannins, this wine is still young at 5 years old. Really good, but needs another 5-10 years to be fully expressive.

7. Pilliteri Icewine Riesling 2004 (Ontario, CA; $28.99/187 ml bottle)
Sweet and lush, with aromas and flavors of canned peach and honeysuckle. Pretty good acidity, though the sweetness definitely still comes through. This is a tasty dessert wine, but at this price I'd go with a Tokaji or Sauternes--Stimmel's has great examples of both at comparable or even better prices per mililiter.

Tasting Notes (April 17): Long Overdue Zinfandel Post

2008-05-07T10:29:00.001-07:00

Hi folks. Lance here. No, I'm not dead. I'm not even sleepy. In fact, despite an emergency house-painting project I must attend to, I find myself invigorated by the end of the academic year--that time when tenure-track (but untenured) professors with 2 year-old kids go from being so swamped with work that they long for the sweet release of death to being merely very, very busy. To paraphrase the showtune, "Summertime, and the livin's ~~easy~~ at least tolerable . . ."

As a result of my recent ascent to the ranks of the minimally human, I find myself able to begin catching up on three tastings' worth of notes that have been lying dormant in my bookbag or on my desk for as many weeks. (Of course, ditz that I am, I accidentally left my bookbag at home, so today's effort will include the Zinfandel notes only.) Thanks to Bill for not complaining about their tardiness.

Now, the notes. All wines are from California; names inside parentheses indicate American Viticultural Areas (AVA's) within California:

1. Peltier Station 2006 (Lodi; $17.99/bottle)
Bill and Sara tend to start tastings with the more modestly priced wines, which is why most of the time when I'm ooh-ing and ahh-ing about a wine on this blog, it's a ways down on the list. But this rich, full-bodied zin had me paying attention right away, with hints of clove and orange peel on the nose and big, jammy raspberry preserves and toasty spice on the palate. The finish is surprisingly long for a <$20 bottle. Very tasty, and an excellent value.

2. Seghesio 2005 (Sonoma; $21.99/bottle)
This very rich, very full-bodied zin offers wild berry, vanilla, and toast notes on the nose and tastes like a big bowl of smashed ripe blueberries with bourbon-laced whipped cream. A sinful pleasure, to be sure.

3. Four Vines "The Sophisticate" 2004 (Sonoma; $21.99/bottle)
The Sophisticate lives up to its name, with a dark but subtle olive note on the palate in addition to the big brambly fruit. The smooth, silky mouthfeel reveals a balance and refinement that you just don't find in most zinfandels. And the peppery finish hangs around for a good 45 seconds or more. One of my favorite zins.

4. Turley "The Juvenile" 2003 (Multi-Vineyard; $29.99/bottle)
Maybe I had olives on my mind after the Four Vines, but the Turley's nose also has a faint black olive note to go with the plum and caramel aromas. The palate is thick and very rich, with ripe berry fruit and--again--a slight briny/olive quality to add interest and differentiate this wine from your run-of-the-mill zin.

5. Orin Swift "The Prisoner" 2005 (Napa; $36.99/bottle)
This wine has a complex nose of mixed berry jam layered with spicy, herbal, and red licorice notes. The full-bodied palate reveals yet another big-but-refined-for-a-zin combination of dark fruit, lots of piquant spice, and licorice flavors. The long finish just keeps the licorice coming. Very nice, indeed.

6. Ravenswood Old Hill 2004 (Sonoma; $51.99/bottle)
This one was more tannic than I expected, though I welcomed the balance the tannins offered to the jammy ripeness of the fruit. It was also distinctly herbal on the palate, while still managing to be expressive of the jammy, wild, spicy fruit that is zinfandel's hallmark. Of all the wines in this lineup, the Ravenswood seems tailor made for food--especially a juicy grilled steak.

Sixtel Sightings

2008-05-01T14:17:00.000-07:00

What is a "sixtel"? Well, it's a nickname for 1/6 barrel kegs of beer, and they happen to be one of the best kept secrets around. Here in Ohio, state law allows beer retailers to sell up to 1/6 barrel sizes of kegs directly to customers; anything larger must be purchased directly from the distributor. A sixtel will yield around 50-55 pints of beer, and they typically range in cost from as low as $50 up to $100 or so, although most are in the $50 - $70 range, with a $10 refundable deposit fee. That's a great value for fresh craft beer (just over a buck a pint)! Several top beer producers offer sixtels, such as Great Lakes, Goose Island, Sam Adams, Dogfish Head and others.

We're definitley heading into sixtel season, with graduation parties, weddings, reunions, picnics and the like all populating our calendars. Here at Stimmel's Market, we'll get any sixtel available in the state; just ask Sara or myself for a list. Try one soon, and you'll be the hero of the party!

Special Report: Unknown Red From Languedoc Takes Bordeaux Group Behind The Woodshed.

2008-04-30T10:24:00.000-07:00

So, the first '05 reds from Bordeaux arrived today, albeit in limited quantities (the big order is supposed to come in June). We received some of the following:

Chateau Belgrave (classified 5th growth, 91 points Wine Spectator, $49.99)
Chateau La Garde (89 points Wine Spectator, $34.99)
Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande (87 points Wine Spectator, $24.99)
Chateay Pey La Tour (89 points Wine Spectator, $19.99)

All things considered, these are some good values (especially the Pey La Tour) for 2005, but they were all upstaged by an over-achiever from the Languedoc region that we also received today. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre, the 2005 Chateau de Serame is a full-bodied, rich, spicy delight that is an outstanding value (90 points Wine Spectator, $18.99). Pick up any of these wines soon, as I don't expect them to be on the shelves for long.

Cheers!

These Prices Are INSANE!

2008-04-22T18:01:00.000-07:00

Growing up in Connecticut, there was a commercial for an appliance/electronics store in NYC that aired week after week for years; named Crazy Eddie's, the (in)famous tag line at the end of each spot was "At Crazy Eddie's, his prices are INSANE!". The guy in the commercial had veins popping out of his neck and his fists were pumped as he screamed that famous phrase, something that regrettably stuck with me throughout my childhood.

Well, today I thought of that spot again as I perused the full price list of our 2005 Bordeaux pre-sell for the first time. I had heard for months that the prices were going to be unprecedented, and it turns out they certainly are. 1st growths at $1,200 per bottle. 2nd growths around $400 - $600, and so on. Most, if not all, classified bottles are going to retail at two to three times what the 2004's did, and while the ratings are universally high (check James Suckling's glowing reviews at Wine Spectator), it's hard to justify paying those kinds of prices. Laying down a grand for a bottle of fermented grape juice isn't just insane, it's downright obscene.

So, Sara and I have targeted a number of wines that have received great scores, but are south of the $200 price point. In fact, we have a few coming that are around the $100 mark and are 95+ rated wines, a good value all things considered. The classified '05 order should hit the market sometime in June, and we'll post a list of exactly what we receive at that time. Until then, we have started to receive a handful of inexpensive, unclassified 2005 wines from Bordeaux, one of which (2005 Chateau La Rame, 85 points from Wine Spectator) retails for $15. That, fellow wine lovers, is definitely NOT insane.

Revolver

2008-04-21T10:27:00.000-07:00

Around this time last year, I heard of a restaurant in Findlay that had opened and was receiving terrific reviews - not just local praise mind you, but ringing endorsements from national publications such as Bon Appetit (or was it Food&Wine, I can't recall...) and The Wall Street Journal. Now, I don't pretend to be a restaurant critic, nor am I qualified to be one, but let's say my culinary experiences in Findlay over the years have been generally sub-par. Diamond River was a favorite for Beth and myself (before it closed and re-opened as one of the worst barbecue joints in the Northern Hemisphere), and I've had some nice meals at Japan West, but otherwise the food scene is rather spartan. As a matter of fact, a couple of my worst meals anywhere in the U.S. have been in Flag City, USA; a completely inedible pizza joint, the afore-mentioned barbecue from hell, and the single worst restaurant on earth (named after a Robert Redford train-wreck-of-a-film, and worthy of a whole different post someday).

Well, I'm happy to say after finally getting around to dining at Revolver that it is a rising tide I hope will lift all of the other boats (i.e. restaurants) in Findlay. As a matter of fact, it was one of the best all-around dining experiences I've encountered anywhere. The service was excellent, the food was terrific and creative (Beth and I both played it safe ordering salmon/wild rice with the S'mores dessert), and the wine list, while not necessarily expansive, was eclectic and impressive. We ordered a bottle of L'ecole #41 Semillon, a favorite value white wine for me (from Washington State) that paired up well with the salmon.

Chain restaurants seem to dominate the landscape in Northwest Ohio, so it's both rare and exciting to dine at a locally owned establishment that is populated with talent and creativity. For the last few years, that place, for me, had been Diva in Toledo - an absolutely wonderful eatery that was darn near perfect in my estimation. Sadly, they closed the doors for good last month, leading to a couple of weeks of what I would describe as "Black Swamp Depression". Revolver has now stepped in, and I can comfortably say it's the best restaurant in Northwest Ohio, and I'm already looking forward to my next visit.

Tasting Notes (April 10): Tour de France

2008-04-17T11:59:00.000-07:00

I usually try to give my posts their own titles, but this week I couldn't think of anything that better represents my take on this week's wines than the title on the tasting sheet: Tour de France. These bottles come from all over France, with only the Loire valley being represented twice (one red, one white). And, while Bill and Sara could have tossed in a wine from, say, the Languedoc just to spread the wealth a little more, I like the fact that they opted for two wines from the Loire, which gets very short shrift in the American wine market (at least, a certain segment of it). There is, of course, something to be said for tasting several wines from the same region--a model Stimmel's frequently adopts--but every once in a while one just feels like playing the field. When that happens, you want a tasting like this one. C'est bon!

These notes are in the order in which they appear on the tasting sheet, though I tried the reds first.

1. Piper Heidsieck Brut NV (Champagne; $39.99/bottle)
This refreshing brut has a crisp nose of herbs and brioche, and the slight richness of the palate is nicely balanced by a bitter herb note. This bubbly would be great with just about anything deep fried, though I'm thinking oysters would be especially nice.

2. Weinbach Gewürtztraminer Cuvee Theo 2004 (Alsace; $54.99/bottle)
This is a nice, if surprising, Gewürtz. With aromas of sweet peach nectar and a touch of rubber, the nose offers the first hint that this wine is off-dry instead of bone dry, like most Alsatian whites. The lightly sweet palate of peach and apricot followed by spice and petrol is very smooth.

3. Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2002 (Burgundy; $99.99/bottle)
The nose on this light-bodied red offers enticing aromas of black cherry, mineral, and damp earth. The palate is bright and lively, with tangy fruit up front and earthy tannins on the back end. Finish is long and graced by just a touch of white pepper.

4. Olek-Mery Chinon 2004 (Loire; $26.99/bottle)
This was the first Chinon I've tasted. (I said the Loire gets short shrift, didn't I? I wasn't excluding myself from that phenomenon.) It was unlike anything I've tried before, which is exactly what one wants in a new wine experience, though time and more experience will render me better able to assess the quality of the wine. Black fruit, musk, and lots of dust define the nose, while the palate shows licorice, mint, and medicinal herb, finishing with dusty pepper. I don't think I'd just pour a glass to drink by itself, but my instincts say that nothing would go better with pepper steak (or any meat cooked with lots of green peppers).

5. Chateau Giscours 2004 (Bordeaux; $39.99/bottle)
This is trademark Bordeaux on the nose, showing sweet currant, earth, and barnyard. The medium-full-bodied palate covers more ground, offering tart blackberry, black currant, earth, and black licorice notes, with tobacco emerging on the finish. The plush mouthfeel helps to soften the tannins. Good now; will be a lot better in 3-5 years.

6. B. Levet Cote-Rotie 2003 (Rhone; $76.99/bottle)
The nose on this northern Rhone red reveals wild berries and crushed violets set against a superripe black olive note--very sensual. The flavor shows very dark fruits, strong dust, and pepper, with a finish of black olive brine. Full-bodied, with fine tannins.

7. Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux 2005 (Loire; $72.99/bottle)
Though this wine is sweet, the nose doesn't let you know, with a bready, herbal, Champagne-like character. These notes are also present on the palate, though they're laid over a lush bed of sweetness and a light minerality. While the flavors still need time to harmonize, the racy acidity and lush body will allow this Vouvray to stay in the bottle for 10, 20, or more years.

Tasting Notes (March 27): Put Another Shrimp on the Grill de Carbon

2008-04-11T11:22:00.000-07:00

I'm back from NOLA and reasonably caught up with work, so it's time to post my notes from the "Spain and Australia" tasting.

Two things make this matchup interesting to me.

First, there's the fact that Spain, perhaps more than any other of the big four (France, Italy, Germany, and Spain), is where you're most likely to find ripe, lush, new-world-style wines alongside more traditional styles. In Rioja, for example, it's generally acknowledged that there are "traditional" and "modern" styles of the tempranillo-based wines produced there (both can be, and often are, delicious). And the wines of Priorat, as a class, are as big and dense as a ripe and well-structured Napa cab. So, from this perspective, the pairing of Spanish and Aussie wines makes perfect sense.

Second, it's hard not to think that Spain has caught up with and perhaps even overtaken Australia as the world's premier producer of great wines at affordable prices (Chile has to be in the running, too, but that's another post). Sure, Australia's got Layer Cake, Boarding Pass, and Milton Park. But Spain has Altos de Luzon, Las Rocas, and Mas Donis. And the way this tasting shakes out, the contest hasn't been settled. Sure, I just about flipped my lid for a couple of the Spanish wines, while I merely really enjoyed the Aussies (though the Mitolo is actually on par with the Spaniards). But a quick scan of the prices explains that difference. Sadly, more research on my part is obviously needed to sort out which country has the better quality-price-ratio wines.

Now, the notes:

1. Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero 2003 (Spain; $38.99/bottle)
The nose on this beautiful red is rich and spicy, with lots of blackberry and black currant and a healthy dose of toasty oak. On the palate it is medium-to-full bodied, with ripe berry, tobacco, earth, and pepper notes. There is plenty of structure to balance the plush fruit, suggesting a potential for 3-5+ additional years in the bottle. Very nice.

2. Les Eres Priorat 2001 (Spain; $64.99/bottle)
This big, tannic, full-bodied red smells like vanilla-spiked plums, dark berries, and damp earth. On the palate, sweet dark berries and vanilla are quickly followed by a blast of fresh cracked black pepper, with spearmint lingering on the finish. Very good now; in 5-7 years it will be a knockout.

3. Torre Muga Rioja 2003 (Spain; $92.99/bottle)
I was already giddy at this point in the tasting, so I just about passed out when I tried this ridiculously good Rioja. It's delicious, yes, but also complex and elegant. The nose of black plums, chocolate, and oak gives way on the palate to rich layers of dark fruit, tobacco, leather, and oak. Ultra-fine tannins are velvety smooth and gripping at the same time. There is still aging potential here (5+ yrs), but why wait?

4. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2006 (Australia; $16.99/bottle)
On this night, this shiraz had an intriguing nose of blackberries, oak, and Worcestershire sauce. What's more, the Worcestershire sauce was present on the thick, full-bodied palate as well, along with ripe black and blue berries and a dash of salt and pepper. You may not find this description appealing, but the flavors actually harmonized quite well. A wine to think about as well as drink, and a good value at <$20. 5. Fetish Playmates 2005 (Australia; $23.99/bottle) This blend smells like R Wines' well-known Boarding Pass Shiraz, with aromas of blackberry, clove, spice, and violets. Rich and juicy on the palate, with big flavors of blueberry jam and peppery spice. Not overly complex, but very tasty.

6. Mitolo G.A.M. 2005 (Australia; $49.99/bottle)
With blackberry, light oak, and a faint hint of green olive on the nose, this red blend is a rare breed: while it is expectedly ripe, rich, and full-bodied, a strong wave of pepper along with a backbone of lightly drying tannins serve as counterpoints to the lush fruit, resulting in a more elegant (and seemingly lighter) wine than most mid-range Aussie reds. A real winner.

7. Tokaj Kereskedohaz Tokaji Aszu Eszencia
Because, as odd-wine out, this Hungarian dessert wine wasn't listed on the official Stimmel's tasting sheet, I don't have the date or price for it, but I'm pretty sure I have the winery and the wine right. There was some confusion about whether this was an Eszencia or an Aszu-Eszencia, since the bottle uses both terms. But, given the wine's alcohol content (at or above 10%, if memory serves), I have to think it's regular 5 or 6 puttonyos Tokaji with the rare nectar Eszencia added, rather than the pure nectar itself, which has so much sugar that it often doesn't get above 5% alcohol. It's got a nose of golden raisins and honey, with mesmerizing flavors of date, fig, honey, and a little bit of smoke. Nice acidity works hard to balance the sweetness and does a pretty good job of it. The finish is pure wild, raw honey, though after a couple of minutes it takes on a tobacco-like quality. I love tokajis, and I love this tokaji.

R.I.P.

2008-03-31T11:35:00.000-07:00

I headed up north with some friends back in February to the 3rd annual Michigan Brewers Guild Winter Beer Festival. After attending the first two fests in grossly undersized venues in beautiful downtown Lansing, this year's event was held inside a minor league baseball park in Grand Rapids (a smart move), and while still a tad too crowded, a great time was had by all. The Michigan Brewers Guild (a large group of commercial brewers, home brewers and beer enthusiasts) also holds a terrific summer festival every July in Ypsilanti, and most of the breweries throughout the Wolverine State attend - roughly 30-35 breweries are pouring their brews at each festival, so it's a great way to sample some of the best beer in the region, if not the country. I have been to 8 summer fests in Ypsilanti in a row (I'm beginning to lose track as I get older...), and I started fondly thinking about some of the breweries that have gone extinct for whatever reason.

So I found myself yesterday up in Ann Arbor with my kids looking for a place to eat, and as I drove by the "Kerrytown Shops" I was reminded of one of the very first "microbreweries" that I visited (back in '96 or '97) called Brewbaker's, located in the basement of the mini-mall. Brewbaker's was exactly what the name implies: part artisan bakery, part microbrewery, and I remember taking home a six-pack of their German Helles Lager and a loaf of bread, both which were delicious. Many more trips followed, until they unexpectedly (to me) closed the doors a year or two later.

Now, despite some of the Michigan breweries that are dearly departed, the craft beer scene up north is very healthy, unlike here in Ohio, where it seems to be struggling a bit. That wasn't always the case though, and just like my discovery of Brewbaker's some 11 years ago, I was also introduced to dozens of great breweries in the Buckeye State around the same time. I'd say sometime around 1998 - 1999, Ohio boasted a craft beer scene every bit as strong as Michigan, but by 2002 or so, it had all but collapsed. For what it's worth, and in no particular order, here is a roll call of what I remember to be some of the good to great Ohio microbreweries/brewpubs that are gone, but not forgotten:

Frontwaters (Marblehead) - Also one of the first breweries that I visited back in the day, Beth and I always stopped in here whenever we were near the lake. Great atmosphere, good beer, and good food (although a tad overpriced). They distributed their beer for a while, all in 22 oz. bottles I think, and I remember a "Gale Force" or "Gale Warning" beer that was especially tasty.

Maumee Bay (Toledo) - Still technically making beer I suppose, but the actual restaurant has closed down. Circa 1998, this place was one of my favorites anywhere - they had outstanding beer, like an award-winning Hefeweizen and the delicious Winter ale, Blitzen. The food and atmosphere were top-notch (a beer cheese soup used to be outta sight), and they even bottled many of their beers under the "Major Oliver" label. Bit by bit, everything started to change for the worse (the food was practically inedible, and the beer is a shadow of what it was) and it's been dying a slow death for the better part of 10 years now.

Hops (Maumee) - Open from about 2001 - 2004 (give or take), this chain brewpub based in Florida generally served uninspired, basic brews. Still, the beer was definitely a step up from industrial swill, and the food was surprisingly good.

Arrowhead (Maumee) - Owned by the folks that ran Maumee Bay into the ground, it never stood a chance. Lasted a year or two before closing.

Meyer Brewing (Delphos) - This is going back 9 or 10 years, but I recall buying a few sixers of "Copper Ale", the flagship (and possibly only) beer from this fledgling brewery. I heard that this was pretty much a one-man operation (maybe a talented homebrewer who decided to bottle his stuff), and the beer was quite good.

Miami Trail (Xenia) - Damn, this beer was great. Located in an unassuming metal barn-like structure across the street from the police station at the Southern end of Xenia, the brews were one-of-a-kind. Extraordinarily hoppy, yet somehow balanced, the Pale Ale and Red Ale stood out. I made many a two-hour trip to hit this place and Thirsty Dog (see below), and it was always well worth it.

Thirsty Dog (Centerville) - Maybe Beth's favorite place, and always a must-stop after biking the Miami Trail around Yellow Springs. The food and atmosphere were both ok, and the beer wasn't world-class, but they would sometimes brew seasonals that were great. For example, they made a pumpkin ale years ago that Beth and I still talk about. Just a fun place to go when it was open.

Hoster's (Columbus, Toledo) - This place thrived for years in the Columbus brewery district, and bottled several good beers (notably the Reverend Purley Pale Ale, and 90 Shilling Ale). It was a fun place to hang out when in Columbus, but when they inexplicably made the decision to open a second pub on the river in Toledo, the deck of cards collapsed. The T-town Hoster's closed a year (or less) after it opened, and the Columbus spot followed.

Liberty Street (Akron) - On Weathervane Lane down the hill from the Stan Hywet Gardens, this place served good beer, and featured a New Orleans-inspired menu that wasn't bad. I remember wasting away a Saturday afternoon here watching basketball and drinking well.

B and O (Youngstown) - This terrific brewpub came along later (around 2002/2003) and only lasted for a year or two. It was a beautiful place, located inside an actual working train station, and the beer was excellent.

Crooked River (Cleveland) - One of only two breweries on the list that I never actually visited in person, but the beers were rock-solid. I specifically remember their Black Forest Lager, a nutty, rich lager that was too easy to drink.

Western Reserve (Cleveland) - The other place I never visited, but pretty damn good beer. I loved their wheat, and the Island Hops brew was fantastic.

The Quarrymen (Berea) - Now resurrected in the same location as the more upscale Cornerstone Brewery, this place had solid food and great beer back in the day. I recall the owner ran into some legal trouble, and the place eventually shut down.

Depressing, isn't it? I need a beer.

Tasting Notes (Mar. 20): O Brave New World

2008-03-25T12:01:00.000-07:00

Thursday was the latest "Old World vs. New World" contest, and, even though the Old World squeaked by with a win last time, the New World took this contest handily. Things are officially tied up.

Chardonnay: Burgundy vs. Napa
1. Savigny Les Beaune Montchenevoy 2004 (France; $49.99/bottle)
For the California chardonnay lover, this wine will seem perhaps too lean, too crisply acidic. But I really enjoyed it. With a nose of citrus, butter, chalk, and a wisp of smoke and flavors of tart green apple, lemon curd, and minerals, this Burgundy would be great with shrimp, scallops, or flaky white fish.

2. Chateau Montelena 2005 (California; $39.99/bottle)
This wine is also surprisingly lean, considering that it comes from the Napa Valley, the home of many rich, unctuous chardonnays. A nose of ripe tropical fruit, bubble gum, and light toast gives way to a medium-bodied palate showing zesty lemon, cream, and toast notes. Finish is slightly herbal. This is a nice chardonnay, but in the end, the Burgundy just had a bit more going on.

Winner: Old World

Pinot Noir: Burgundy vs. Oregon
1. Louis Latour Pommard 2004 (France; $48.99/bottle)
With a nose of black cherry, earth, and wildflowers and flavors of wild brambles, black cherry, and gamy earth, this wine's real strength is its very smooth, silky texture in the mouth. Would be perfect with a seared duck breast or even wild game.

2. Ken Wright Canary Hill 2006 (Oregon; $26.99/bottle)
The nose on this pinot was actually quite muted on this night, though I detected some earth and herb notes. But the flavor was anything but muted, with bright, ripe cherry and rhubarb fruit, zippy spice, and damp earth. This wine is not overly complex, but the lively texture, balanced acidity, and kinetic finish make this wine stand out. This was the closest pairing of the night, and truth be told, it could have gone either way. But I had to give the nod to the Ken Wright for the finish.

Winner: New World

Rhone Blend: Chateauneuf-du-Pape vs. Australia
1. Paul Artaud Chadeauneuf-du-Pape 2005 (France; $39.99/bottle)
The nose shows some dark berries, brine/sea air, and black olive. The flavor reveals raspberry, blackberry, licorice, and spice, with a dry, tannic finish. Not a bad wine, but overall this effort seems one-dimensional (especially one from the instantly classic 2005 vintage).
2. John Duval Plexus 2005 (Australia; $38.99/bottle)
This Rhone-style blend has an enticing nose of ripe black and blue berries, lots of rich clove and spice, and a fine veneer of oaky vanilla. Very ripe and full-bodied, with dark berries, black olives, and spicy pepper notes on the palate. The spicy finish is fairly long. This pairing was no contest.

Winner: New World

Merlot: Italy vs. California
1. Falesco Montiano 2003 (Italy; $39.99/bottle)
Offers a nose of black plum, blackberry, caramel, and something bacon-like. The flavor profile is both interesting and tasty, with very dark fruit, a touch of smoke, stewed peppers, and a finish of licorice and black pepper. This is a very nice, medium-full bodied wine that would go great with pasta bolognese or any other meaty tomato dish. Moderately tannic; will develop over the next 3-6 years.

2. Delectus Stanton Vineyard 2001 (California; $44.99/bottle)
This medium-full bodied merlot's plummy, vanilla-scented nose gives way to a complex, super-spicy, dark palate of ripe black plum, vanilla, licorice, and earthy leather. Very, very good.

Winner: New World

And the winner is: not even close--New World! But don't count the Euros out just yet. The score is now 1-1, and I think a couple of the Old World selections for this tasting under-performed for the categories they represented. [Edited: really, it was only the CdP that "under-performed;" the other Old Worlds on the losing end were just outperformed.] I'm looking forward to the rubber match--and this time, it'll be personal! (I don't know what I mean, either.)

Tasting Notes (Mar. 13): Back in Business!

2008-03-18T11:57:00.000-07:00

This tasting of red blends was a nice transition back into drinking wine after the previous week's bout of the flu. With only a couple super-rich, thick reds on tap, the lineup didn't threaten to rekindle my queasy stomach the way a hedonistic blast of extracted fruit bombs might have. And even the quite rich wines in this lineup--the Clos Apalta (#7) comes to mind--had a tannic grip and/or spicy bite to provide balance and keep things in the realm of the non-regurgitory (and even, much to my pleasant surprise that night, the downright delicious).

1. Chateau Fontarney 2004 (France; $33.99/bottle)
This new release Bordeaux has a nice, earthy nose. Medium-full bodied on the palate, with flavors of black cherry, tar, and leathery earth. Medium-grained tannins really dry things out on the finish. Not bad; might mellow a bit in 2-3 years.

2. Domaine Le Couroulu Vacqueyras 2003 (France; $19.99/bottle)
This is a nice entry-level Rhone, and, at under $20, it's a great value. Not as assertive as some Rhones (again, great for those new to the very distinctive wines of this region), this nevertheless full-bodied and quite silky red leads off with rich fruit, which immediately gives way to a jolt of pepper, culminating in a lightly briny finish. Finishes with slightly drying tannins. Would go nicely with grilled beef or lamb.

3. Joseph Phelps Le Mistral 2003 (California; $35.99/bottle)
Named for the cold, strong Alpine wind that periodically sweeps through the Rhone valley (and whose effects are important to Rhone wine production), this blend of typical Rhone grapes (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) is nevertheless all California in temprament: thick and full-bodied, with big black/blue berry fruit, layered with spice and licorice notes. The zippy finish smacks of mint. This is an easy-drinking, juicy wine, but with a touch of complexity as well.

4. Ridge Geyserville 2005 (California; $36.99/bottle)
This Zinfandel-based blend was the crowd favorite at the tasting, and with good reason. The big, fruity nose of wild berries, chocolate, and vanilla portends a rich, full body and a lusciously thick mouthfeel, with firm bands of pepper and spice to both cut and compliment the richness. A touch of heat from the alcohol appears on the finish, but not enough to make me--or anyone else, I suspect--care.

5. Massena The Moonlight Run 2005 (Australia; $39.99/bottle)
This wine may not have been my favorite of the night (see #4, or maybe #6, or maybe #7), it is inarguably one of the most interesting in terms of aroma, flavor, and body. The nose of blackberry and sweet spice is infused with a surprisingly floral, almost perfumed, component, while the flavor comes through with berry, clove, medicinal herb, and a mortar-full of crushed violets. But the real note of interest is the body, which, while very full, is nevertheless lightened by a surprising bolt of acidity. As a result, this may be one of the most food-flexible but still super-ripe Aussie reds around.

6. Mas de Can Blau 2005 (Spain; $49.99/bottle)
After tasting high-end Spanish wines like the Numanthia Termes and the El Nido, I was expecting a great big bomb of a wine, but the Mas de Can Blau shows some restraint. Still, the wine is quite full-bodied, with an intense, concentrated nose of plum, berry, vanilla, and earth and complex flavors of dark berries, vanilla, oak, tar, and peppery spice. Like the Ridge, this one shows a touch of heat on the finish, but nothing to get worked up about. An extremely strong effort.

7. Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2003 (Chile; $65.99/bottle)
This Chilean red offers an enticing if unusual nose of ripe berries, stewed bell peppers, and dark caramel. With a fleshy, full-body and an extremely velvety mouthfeel, the palate offers loads of pepper, black plum, and blackberry, all set against a rich, almost meaty (meatloafy) backdrop. Thick, concentrated, and delicious, with integrated tannins providing ample structure.

Tasting Notes (Feb. 21; 28): Catch-Up Version

2008-03-11T18:15:00.000-07:00

I have some catching up to do with my tasting notes, so I'll forgo any pontificating and just get right to it. (My notes for last Monday's blind tasting I'll post separately, but Bill's post pretty much covered it anyway.)

Thursday, Feb. 21:
For this tasting, there was no pre-printed sheet with all the wines on it, so I decided to do the tasting completely without reference to the costs of the wines. Even now, I don't know exactly how much each bottle costs. I thought it would "level the playing field," so to speak.

1. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling 2005 (Germany)
A nose of green apple, motor oil, and wet gravel is mirrored in the flavors of sweet green apple, mineral, and Vaseline. Very interesting wine--not overly balanced (feels like the sweetness and acidity are singing different tunes rather than harmonizing), but still not bad for the price (ok, I do happen to remember that this wine is not too expensive--under $20, if memory serves).

2. Talley Vineyards Arroyo Grande Valley Chardonnay 2004
This is one of the few wines Stimmel's has poured that I just have to say I really hated. Tart and acidic with bitter and yet somehow perfumey flavors. It even tasted a bit oxidized, which makes me want to hear from Bill and Sarah what they think of the next bottle, just in case this one happened to be rotten apple in an otherwise good barrel. Stay tuned . . .

3. Domaine Couteau Yamhill County Pinot Noir 2003
This medium-bodied pinot features a nose of bright cherry, fresh earth, and anise, followed by flavors of raspberry, black cherry, herbal cough medicine, and licorice. The finish is all black pepper. Palpable acidity begs for an oily fish like grilled salmon or a nice seared duck breast.

4. San Martino Villa Cafaggio 2000
This Italian red is quite enjoyable. The nose of currant, oak, salt/blood, and a touch of horse blanket gives way to a nice palate of black currant, black olive, and earth. The finish reveals notes of licorice and mint.

5. Andeluna Reserve Malbec 2003
This very nice Malbec is expectantly chunky, just the way you'd expect a South American Malbec to be. The meaty nose reveals tantalizing aromas of toasty oak and milk chocolate, while the blackberry-based flavor is infused with spice, pepper, and mint, mint, mint (with some mint chocolate thrown in for good measure).

6. Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
This is the new world wine I've been looking for in these cold, snowy winter months. While it may lack the finesse of the Mondavi Reserve 2004 (but what doesn't?), this California Cab bursts with aromas of currant, plum, and vanilla for days. And the flavors are even better: sweet cassis, vanilla, oak, tobacco, and chocolaty spice all float effortlessly on fine, ripe tannins. Drink now, or cellar for a few years (5-7).

Thursday, Feb. 28:
These were the leap year vintages, and all I can say is that I am grateful to have been present at this tasting. This is up there with the all-time best tastings for featuring one wine after the next that makes you want to eat Ramen Noodles for a week so you can spend a few extra bucks on the bottle.

1. Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 ($99.99/bottle)
This wine is simply great. The nose offers richly layered notes of earth, cedar, crushed violets, and chocolate, with a host of additional secondary aromas too complex and integrated to pin down. Exquisitely smooth, this medium-full bodied Cabernet reveals a complex palate of cedar shavings, tobacco, graphite, cherry, and licorice. In short, I'd have pegged this wine for a great Bordeaux in a blind tasting. Don't wait to drink this one; it's ready to go. (Note: Wine Advocate says drink through 2025, so take my advice with a grain of salt.)

2. Ridge Monte Bello 1992 ($149.99/bottle)
This Bordeaux-style California blend is one of the best wines I've tried, hands down. And, unlike the Mondavi, which definitely needs to be drunk in the next year or two at the most, this wine--at 16 years old (and still featuring a dense, deep garnet color)--could stay in the bottle for another 5-10 years. But why wait, considering its surprisingly bright yet unmistakably mature cherry, dried currant, sweet spice, pencil shaving, and cigar box notes? One of the only bottles I've ever come across that I'd say is a value at $150.

3. Villa Cafaggio Cortaccio 2000 ($32.99/bottle)
This Italian red's nose of blackberry, wildflowers, blood/brine, and toast gives way to flavors of ripe raspberry, blackberry, black licorice, and a hint of leather. Overall a very nice wine.

4. Richard Perry Syrah 2000 ($29.99/bottle)
This is a big wine, from the deep purple (almost opaque) color to the incredibly ripe nose of black plum, toasty oak, vanilla, and milk chocolate (the overall aroma is not unlike the Boarding Pass Shiraz). But it's the taste that stands out: the thick, full body reveals flavors of plum and blackberry fruit buttressed by layers of pronounced pepper and spice, with a hint of tobacco. Not as complicated as the Ridge or the Mondavi, but delicious nonetheless.

5. Shirvington Shiraz 2004 ($69.99/bottle)
Another very good wine in this lineup. The nose of black and blue berries, damp forest floor, and spice gives way to a very extracted flavor of berries, pepper, black licorice, chocolate, and mint, with a long, luxurious finish.

6. Montes Alpha "M" 2004 ($85.99/bottle)
Classic South American full-bodied red, with a nose of blackberries, stewed meat, roasted bell pepper, and crushed mint. Flavors of blackberry, black tar, mint, stewed tomatoes and peppers glide along a super-smooth mouthfeel. Ripe tannins give plenty of structure to the ripe juciness of the fruit.

7. Pillitteri Estates Shiraz Icewine 2004 ($19.99/half bottle)
This was my first Shiraz-base icewine, and I have to admit I wasn't expecting much. But, with a deep, reddish caramel color and a nose of honey, caramel, baked apples, and pineapple, this one took me a bit by surprise. While this dessert wine is not as complex as the Toakaij's or the Sauternes' we've tried at Stimmel's, it is still very tasty--and worth trying for paradoxically sweet and sour cherry component (not to mention the maple syrup component). A phrase from my notes sums things up: "simple, but delicious."

The Blind Leading The Blind

2008-03-05T14:36:00.000-08:00

The blog is my confessional. Monday night's wine tasting theme here at Stimmel's Market offered another chance to taste seven red wines blind, and be graded accordingly, and I was on the other side of the bar, for the first time, to give it a shot myself. I joked earlier in the day that this was my chance to be in the "dunk tank", and believe me, I was soaked by the end of the night. While I'd like to argue that the lever on the dunk tank was faulty, or offer some other vapid excuse for my failure, I was simply another victim of the dizzying world of wine.

I wound up only getting 3 out of 7 correct, and while I take solace from the fact that my answers (and final score) were identical to Lance's (whose palate I greatly respect), I was blinded by my own confidence. Rich, dark, brooding red with a blast of green bell pepper on the nose - must be the Argentinian Malbec, right? Try Bordeaux. Medium-bodied red with good acidity - has to be the Rioja. Nope, try California Cabernet. Chewy tannins and a touch of leather and medium-bodied - it's gotta be the Bordeaux. Wrong again, it's the Rioja. The lesson I learned is this: certain types of wines from certain wine growing areas of the world typically possess flavors and aromas that can be expected, but they are not unilateral. "Typicity" is merely a guideline when tasting many wines.

On the other hand, I did get a perfect score of 7 out of 7 on the beer side, so I've got that going for me.

Cheers!

Local Flavor

2008-03-04T10:06:00.000-08:00

Ohio has been home to some of the best craft breweries over the years, and while dozens have met an untimely demise (a post for another time), many are currently alive and thriving. Great Lakes, Barrelhouse, Hoppin' Frog and Buckeye Brewing are great examples of the healthy local beer market here in Ohio, and are all breweries capable of producing world-class beer.

Wine is another story. While dozens of wineries dot the landscape throughout the state (most of which are located along the lake from Port Clinton all the way up to Ashtabula), serious wine is difficult, if not impossible, to find. Whether it be the soil, the climate, lack of expertise, lack of a captive market, or all of the above, the vast majority of wine produced, bottled, and sold here in the Buckeye state tends to be cloying and sweet. Vinifera grapes are tough to come by, so you're more likely to find Pink Catawba, Concord and Chambourcin than Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah.

So, I was more than a tad curious to hear about a winery in Sandusky (just about an hour from Bowling Green) that produces, bottles and sells only vinifera grapes, and not just any grapes - we're talking Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Semillon, and others. Well, I stopped by Hermes Vineyards ( http://www.hermesvineyards.com/) yesterday to give 'em a try. First of all, Hermes (also known as Sand Hill Winery) is on State Rt. 4, just a couple of miles north of the Ohio Turnpike. As I pulled into the parking lot in a driving rain, I was greeted by a silo and a small barn. Inside the barn is a charming and rustic, yet modern, tasting bar, complete with tables downstairs and more seating in the upstairs loft. Quite frankly, the place was unexpectedly beautiful, and it would be easy to spend a lazy afternoon tasting wines while glancing at the voluminous field of vines stretching away from the picture window.

I met Millicent, the winery manager, and she graciously poured me samples of all their available wines. All of the wines were from the 2006 vintage (a difficult one here in Ohio - especially with a wet and cold harvest), with the exception of a 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. I tried four whites (Semillon, Gewurztraminer, semi-sweet Sauvignon Blanc, semi-sweet Riesling) and ten reds (Grenache, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, 2005 and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and a Port). It was a mixed bag. As for the whites, the Semillon stood out to me as creamy, a tad spicy, and varietally correct (Millicent also let me know about a sold-out Viognier which was well received by wholesale and retail customers alike). The reds were all on the lighter side of the varietal (visually, most resembled Crystal Light in a wine glass), and some were tough to drink. Others stood out as interesting, if not downright unusual. The Grenache, Nebbiolo and Petit Verdot offered a little spice and/or earth, and the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (the only red to see some oak treatment) had a nicer, almost silky mouthfeel.

I give Hermes Vineyards high marks for ambition in all aspects of their business - from the wonderful tasting room inside the restored barn, to the friendly service, to the amazing variety of wines that they bottle and sell. While my opinion of serious red wines made in Ohio may not have changed much, Hermes is definitely on the right track, especially as their vines mature (they were just planted back in 2002). I am already looking forward to trying some of their barrel samples from 2007 (generally regarded as a much better vintage than 2006 in this area).

Cheers!

Tasting Notes (Feb. 14): Bor--d'oh!

2008-02-21T08:21:00.000-08:00

I was all ready to post my notes last weekend--early, by my recent standards--when an incredibly painful back spasm put me in bed for three days straight. So I'm only now getting back in the swing of things, just in time for the next tasting. Alas, the best laid plans of mice and men . . . .

1. Chateau Guiraud "G" 2006 ($15.99/bottle)
Essentially (if not legally) a dry Sauternes, this wine offers a complex nose of kiwi, lemon, muskmelon, brioche, and honey and flavors of creamy citrus, bread, and fresh herbs. The smooth, medium body is defined by a nice balance between crispness and roundess, with just the faintest touch of sweetness.

2. Chateau Gloria 2004 (St. Julien; $24.99/bottle)
The nose knows on this wine. Still shiny-new and very tight, the flavor begrudgingly yields some dark berry with hints of tar and leather, all sheathed in a cloak of youthful tannin. But the aroma offers a glimpse of what this wine may be in 5-10 years, with a balanced, rich array of sweet black currants, blackberry, earth, clove, and tar.

3. Chateau Lagrange 2004 (St. Julien; $34.99/bottle)
This wine, like the Gloria, needs time, though it doesn't keep quite so much in reserve. An interesting nose of cherry, toasty oak, and stewed tomatoes with peppers gives way to flavors of black cherry, tangy new leather, tar, and earth. Reasonably smooth for a young wine.

4. Chateau Beychevelle 2004 (St. Julien; $39.99/bottle)
Now we're getting into some wines that--while no doubt themselves still young and worthy of 10+ years of cellaring--have enough ripe fruit, balance, and depth to be enjoyable now, especially with a few hours of decanting (if you can plan ahead). The nose on this medium-full-bodied red is rich, ripe, and well-integrated, suggestive of black currant, black cherry, oak, and sweet spice. On the palate, shining through a curtain of assertive tannins, come sweet, bright red and purple fruits, toasty oak, and a cocoa-laced finish.

5. Chateau Bourgneuf 2004 (Pomerol; $39.99/bottle)
This merlot-based blend (whereas the others are mostly cabernet) offers a nose of blackberry, black cherry, pungent earth, and sweet spice and flavors of ripe black fruit infused with pepper, licorice, earth, and toasty spice. As with all the wines in this lineup, assertive tannins suggest aging potential, though with some decanting and a juicy steak there's nothing to stop one from enjoying this wine right now.

6. Clos du Marquis 2002 (St. Julien; $49.99/bottle)
Predictably, the wine that's two years older than the others (and from comparable vintages) is also the smoothest one of the bunch, with a nice, velvety texture that goes a long way toward ameliorating the still-brawny tannins. Aromas and flavors of plum, blackberry, peppery spice, black licorice, and leather make for a complex and enjoyable glass of wine right now, though cellaring for 5-10 or more years would no doubt yield an even smoother, more complex Bordeaux experience.

7. Chateau d'Yquem 2001 (Sauternes; $299.99/375 ml bottle)
Yes, you read the price right. Chateau d'Yquem is France's most legendary dessert wine, and this bottle is from what is universally considered to be a stellar vintage. And you can tell. Just smelling the super-rich, concentrated nose of honey, baked pineapple, minerals, candied lemon, and a whole field of honeysuckle is, all by itself, an intense and pleasurable experience. The flavors are just as astounding, with impossibly dense lemon syrup, apricot preserves, smoke, and herb flavors. The very long finish turns floral after about a minute. As one might expect, this wine has an almost syrupy consistency on the palate, though there's enough acidity to keep things in something like balance. (If I am to be totally honest, though, I think the still-expensive but much more affordable Royal Tokaji Wine Company 5 puttonyos from the Jan. 3 tasting has as much depth and sweetness as the Yquem and better acidity, creating an overall ethereal, transcendent quality that this Sauternes doesn't quite achieve. If that makes me an iconoclast, then so be it.)

Is Zinfandel Dead?

2008-02-13T14:39:00.000-08:00

This question was recently posed in an online wine forum, and the reaction was surprisingly (to me) split down the middle. Many of the posters discussed Zin's lack of "flair", too-high alcohol levels, and a general disinterest for the grape. Others were singing the praise of Zinfandel, lauding the fact that they are generally great values, are perfect matches for heavier foods, and exhibit more complexity than most people think.

Well, the discussion inspired me....to buy a boatload of Zinfandel for my home cellar! Admittedly, I've overlooked Zin myself the last year; our last full-on Zinfandel tasting was almost a year ago at Stimmel's Market, and despite the fact that I've had two outstanding Zin-based blends the last six months (Orin Swift The Prisoner, JC Cellars Impostor), it's been a long time since I've popped any at home. So, I went and picked up several bottles of Schrader's Hell Hole Zin, a few bottles of Turley Juvenile, a bunch of stuff from Armida, and a few more bottles of The Prisoner. None of these bottles cost me more than $40 (even the Turley), and all will provide immediate gratification.

The best Zinfandels are full-bodied, show lush dark fruits, and tease with a touch of pepper on the finish. Unlike first-growths and cult cabs, Zin is often times best drunk young - not to mention you won't have to refinance your home to buy a case of good Zin. I'll be trying these Zins over the coming weeks, and will be picking up some other great bottles at Stimmel's as well. If you want to share in my Zinfandel odyssey, here are some terrific ones you can pick up at the market:

Seghesio - only $20 or so, this is a great bottle. One of Wine Spectator's Top 100 wines of 2007.

Rosenblum Rockpile - Rosenblum is regarded as one of the absolute best Zin producers, and the Rockpile is their showcase bottle. A little pricier (about $40), but a big, big wine.

Kuleto - under $30, this is a steal. Loads of fruit and spice.

Peter Franus - great texture and mouthfeel, a go-to Zin for me.

Cheers!

Tasting Notes (Feb. 7): Syrah Around the World

2008-02-08T18:33:00.000-08:00

If you'll pardon a bit of wandering before I get to the subject of wine, I want to talk about language for a moment. Soviet philosopher and literary critic Mikhail Bakhtin said that there are always two kinds of forces at work when we use language. Centripetal forces (like official language laws, prescriptive grammars, and usage manuals) are forces that seek to push language toward a central point of conformity and sameness. They are the "rules," as it were. Centrifugal forces (like innovation, creolization, and even sheer accident), on the other hand, are forces that constantly work to push language out from the center, toward change and differentiation.

Rugged individualists that we Americans tend to be (apologies to the one Roman who I know regularly reads this blog) it may seem that we should enthusiastically root for the centrifugal while trying to boo the centripetal off the field--that we should, in short, vigorously celebrate difference, change, and innovation. But the fact is that language, and by extension human society, can only exist in that tenuous middle space between too much sameness and too much difference. If language becomes too centrifugal, then we end up with a kind of Babel--nobody communicating with anybody. If it becomes too centripetal, it becomes moribund, going the way of Latin--something for dusty textbooks and clerics.

So what does this have to do with wine? Everything, actually. Just like language, wine is the happy (ok, very happy) result of a similar play between centripetal and centrifugal forces. Take terroir, for instance: the tendency for wines, especially good wines, to reflect "place" assures that the same kind of grape grown in different places will likely make very different wines. If terroir didn't exist, even taking into account winemakers' abilities to manipulate the final product through specialized techniques, there would simply be no point in having a "syrah around the world" tasting. There would just be syrah, period. It wouldn't matter where it came from, other than perhaps the minimum criterion that syrah actually be able to grow and ripen there.

So terroir is a centrifugal force, in that it is largely responsible for the differences among wines from one country to the next, one region to the next, and even one vineyard to the next. But, alongside terroir, there's a centripetal force at work: the varietal (i.e., the type of grape). After all, if terroir were an absolutely determining force, then there would be no reason to care whether a wine is a syrah, or even to distinguish a syrah from, say, a zinfandel. All that would matter is where it came from. But, different as syrahs around the world can be, they are not all so different from one another that there isn't--usually, anyway--at least a smidge of continuity from one to the next.

For syrah--to my palate, at least--that smidge seems to be spice. Of all the wines I tried this Thursday, only the first doesn't include some kind of spice in the tasting note note. And, yet, despite this commonality and a few others almost as prominent (blackberry, for example), it will be clear from the descriptions below that these are very different wines, and that the difference has as much or more to do with place--with terroir--as with price.

It's this give-and-take between sameness and difference that makes wine so mesmerizingly appealing to me and, I suspect, many others. Now, the notes:

1. Backsberg Pumphouse Shiraz 2002 (South Africa; $19.99/bottle)
This shiraz boasts aromas of big blackberry fruit, toasty oak, and leathery earth, followed by flavors of tart but ripe blackberries, saddle leather, and tar. The finish reveals subtle graphite notes as it lingers. Dark and nice, with an old-world quality.

2. Delas Crozes-Hermitage Les Launes 2005 (France; $22.99/bottle)
Bold aromas and flavors of wild berries, dusty spice, dry earth, and cured pork practically scream northern Rhone, of whose wines this one is a typical, and decent, example. Finishes with drying tannins. Try this one with smoked sausage.

3. E. Guigal Hermitage 2001 (France; $79.99/bottle)
Even pushing $80, this would be considered an entry-level hermitage. And, while it is perhaps less intriguing and complex than the Jaboulet "La Chapelle" from the Jan. 10 Rhone tasting, it is more balanced, with more integrated flavors, making it a real pleasure to drink. Aromas of dark berry, musk, damp earth, smoke, and leather are followed by flavors of blackberry, tart cherry, pepper, dust, and smoky cedar. The peppery, spicy finish lingers nicely.

4. Arcadian Syrah 2005 (California; $26.99/bottle)
This wine may be from California, but the nose says northern Rhone, with dark berry, animal, and smoky notes. On the palate, the fruit is more red and rounded than a Rhone, but it's followed by delicious exotic spice and black licorice. Medium-bodied, with a smooth mouthfeel.

5. Red Car Speakeasy Syrah 2006 (California; $59.99/bottle)
Almost black, this thick, full-bodied syrah offers a nose of black plum, sweet spice, oak, and earth. Flavors of ripe black plum, tar, and spice glide like satin across the palate, with a ripe, almost grapey fruit re-emerging on the finish.

6. Mitolo Jester Shiraz 2006 (Australia; $21.99/bottle)
Dark and complex, this shiraz boasts aromas of blackberry and black currant, sweet spice, and musk and flavors of tart blackberry and black cherry, dark chocolate, tar, and spice. Full-bodied, but more restrained than one would expect from a big Aussie shiraz. It reminds me, in fact, of a nice GSM--heavy on the M.

7. Cayuse en Chamberlin Syrah 2004 (Washington; $74.99/bottle)
This super-ripe syrah from Washington is definitely made in a new world style, though it, too, offers a mélange of new world and old world flavors--cherry and blackberry, oak, smoke, sweet spice, salt, and corned beef (with even a bit of cabbage thrown in). Thick, rich, and fruity but also dark and brooding at the same time, this wine prompted one of the tasters to refer to it (in a good way) as "fornicating with my mouth." How often can you say that about a wine?

Tasting Notes (Jan. 31): South American Tour

2008-02-05T19:34:00.000-08:00

Inveterate oenophile that I am, I often sneak back to the Stimmel's tasting area on Thursday afternoons just to get a peek at that night's wines. Last Thursday was no exception, and as I scanned the lineup, I was shocked to see in the "South American Tour" not only such standbys as malbec and carménère but also the varietals chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah. Props go to Bill for exercising a little creativity when, as he put it, most people were probably expecting a lineup of "bell pepper bombs." I love many of the pepper bombs, of course, but this tasting was something of a revelation: South America can produce great wines in whole a range of styles, from rustic and meaty to elegant and silky. Here are some of them:

1. Luca Chardonnay 2006 (Argentina; $33.99/bottle)
This sleekly-styled chardonnay boasts aromas and flavors of very ripe pear, kiwi, oak, and smoke. Crisply acidic rather than round and buttery, there's still enough depth, richness, and mouthfilling body to make it recognizable as a new-world chardonnay. The long finish leaves your mouth tingling, and wanting more.

2. Luca Pinot Noir 2005 (Argentina; $34.99/bottle)
This pinot's creamy nose of bright cherry, wet soil, and smoke foreshadow flavors of ripe black and sour cherries, earth, and smoky spice. The vibrant acidity doesn't dominate but instead provides lift, suggesting a versatile food wine--pair with anything from roasted chicken or duck to filet mignon.

3. Tikal Patriota 2005 (Argentina; $25.99/bottle)
Aromas of juicy plum and other dark fruits, toast, and sweet spice are followed by flavors of wild berries, black pepper, spice, and a slight hint of green wood. A typically meaty-textured malbec-based blend, this wine finishes with tart, fine tannins.

4. Susana Balbo Malbec 2005 (Argentina; $27.99)
This tasty wine is a study in contrasts. Juicy and ripe up front, with a nose of dark berries, bramble, cinnamon, and a faint earthiness and flavors of black plum, black licorice, and peppery spice, it nevertheless finishes with bone-dry tannins.

5. Montes Purple Angel 2004 (Chile; $55.99/bottle)
The first thing you notice with this carménère is its dark purple color, followed by a big, bold, assertive nose of fresh and roasted green bell pepper, crushed berries, cigarette tobacco, and grilled meat. The flavor follows suit with very ripe, sweet black and blue berries, green pepper, and tobacco, all riding on a full-bodied, moderately tannic structure. The long finish is sweet, ripe, and rich.

6. Montes Folly 2003 (Chile; $79.99/bottle)
This syrah's nose of cherry, sweet spice, vanilla, and oak is very well-integrated and rich. On the palate, it begins with bright cherry, sliding into earthy blackberry and then vanilla and sweet spice. The long finish suggests black licorice. This is a great candidate for drinking all by itself.

7. Tardio 2006 (Argentina; $12.99/500 ml bottle)
This dessert wine has an intriguing nose, boasting a mix of candied pineapple and bent plastic (think of the petroleum-like smell you get when you put a crease in a plastic picnic/party cup). The taste, likewise, offers scrumptious sweet pineapple, smoke, and petroleum. Decent acidity keeps the sweetness from being too cloying, especially considering the low price. A good value.

Tasting Notes (Jan. 24): The Dark (and Delicious) Side of Spain

2008-01-30T15:25:00.000-08:00

If there's one word that can characterize my experience with Spanish red wines, from Priorat to Jumilla to Ribera del Duero, it's dark. Dark fruit, dark earth, dark licorice, dark coffee and chocolate--these flavors and aromas abound, certainly. But there's also a kind of teasing, a sense that while these wines may be letting you in on the full taste experience, they're nevertheless keeping something back, a secret, in the shadows behind the flavors and textures--something alluring and beguiling at the same time. Something dark. It's a delicious mystery, drinking Spanish reds.

Is it any wonder, then, that they are among my very favorite wines? Try some of the following, and they'll be among yours, too.

1. Torres Milmanda 2001 (Penedes; $36.99/bottle)
Even though my introductory notes are all about reds, this brawny white holds its own in terms of assertiveness and body. A nose of citrus, green apple, and toasted nuts foreshadows flavors of sweet and sour apples, walnuts, and medicinal herbs. The intriguingly oily mouthfeel is balanced by crisp acidity. Pair with strongly-flavored fish or anything with lots of herbs.

2. Las Rocas Garnacha (Grenache) 2005 (Catalayud; $11.99/bottle)
This wine hits you with a super-fruity nose that's a cross between a Beaujolais and a not-too-spicy Zin and then immediately moves on to aromas of minerals and even a bit of dust. The palate follows suit, with flavors of dark berries, black earth, dust, and a faint minerality. Long, spicy, licorice-laced finish reveals drying tannins. This wine is a steal at $11.99.

3. Juan Gil 2005 (Jumilla; $15.99/bottle)
With a nose of ripe black currants, blackberries, and toasty oak and flavors of black fruits, peppery spice, and bitter chocolate, this medium-full bodied red from Jumilla just begs for a really charred steak. The smooth mouthfeel roughens up on the finish with slightly coarse tannins.

4. Condado de Haza 2004 (Ribera del Duero; $24.99/bottle)
Inky-purple, this wine offers deep, rich aromas of black currant, blackberry, blueberry, and vanilla. Complex flavors of black and purple fruits, grilled herbs, scrub, and black licorice lead into a primordially dark, earthy finish. Very nice.

5. Artadi Vinas de Gain 2004 (Rioja; $27.99/bottle)
The nose of blackberries, plum, oak, and baking spices sets you up for flavors of blackberry, plum, salty leather, loam, and pepper, all supported by a medium-grained tannic structure. Even this wine, which, as a Rioja, one might expect to have a brownish flavor profile (with notes like mocha and chocolate), is less brown than black, less creamy than penetrating.

6. Trio Infernal 1/3 2004 (Priorat; $49.99/bottle)
A tantalizing nose of plum, red currant, oak, stewed meat, and violets starts things off. After that come flavors of red and black currants, oak, black pepper, spice, and blood sausage. This tannic, full-bodied wine is still somewhat closed and could greatly benefit from cellaring. In 10 years it should be smooth, expressive, and balanced.

7. El Nido 2003 (Jumilla; $129.99/bottle)
This wine has a big, luscious nose of blueberry compote, lavender, scrub, vanilla, and cream. On the palate it's pure blueberry pie, with some sweet pipe tobacco on the mid-palate and a super-plush mouthfeel leading to a long, creamy, blueberry-doused finish. Firm but integrated tannins will keep things interesting for another decade or more.

Villa Cafaggio and Paraiso

2008-01-25T14:06:00.000-08:00

A couple more close-out wines to look for:

2000 Villa Cafaggio San Martino and Cortaccio - A pair of nice tuscans from a good vintage. Sara and I just tasted these this afternoon, and they're drinking well. Originally $65.99 a bottle, they're now just $32.99 each.

1996 Villa Cafaggio San Martino - Admittedly from a poor vintage, this is still a nice Sangiovese that was rated 88 points by Wine Spectator. It's just a little past it's prime, but after breathing for a few hours this morning it is drinking ok. Leather and earth, with just a hint of fruit still hanging on, it is a great food wine. Originally $39.99, now just $9.99 a bottle.

2003 Paraiso Estate Syrah - Nice California Syrah, and drinking extremely well. Lots of fruit. Originally $17.99, now only $9.99 a bottle.

Tasting Notes (Jan. 17): And the Winner Is . . .

2008-01-18T17:26:00.000-08:00

It being the middle of January in Northwest Ohio, my taste in wine has of late tended toward thicker, more plush, warming styles--toward, that is, New World wines. So last night's New World/Old World showdown was seemingly a foregone conclusion. But, as they say in sports, that's why they play the game. Let's have a look at the matchups:

1. Pinot Gris--Alsace (France) vs. Oregon

a. Zind Humbrecht Herrenweg Pinot Gris 2004 (Alsace; $43.99/bottle)
Pretty golden-yellow color. The very fruity nose of fresh pear, fresh and baked peach, and honey make you think this will be a dessert wine, but it isn't. Flavors of ripe apricot, lemon rind, and bitter herbs dance on a knife-edge of racy acidity, leaving a clean, fresh feeling in your mouth. Great food wine; try it with spicy thai.

b. Adelsheim Pino Gris 2006 (Oregon; $19.99/bottle)
Very light, silver-blond color looks great in the glass. The assertive nose of baseball card bubble gum, cooked banana, and white pear carries through to the flavor, with mouthwatering, tangy acidity defining the finish. This is a pleasant wine, but it doesn't stand a chance against a well-crafted pinot gris from the Alsace, where they do pinot gris better than anyone.

Winner: Old World

2. Pinot Noir: Burgundy (France) vs. Oregon

a. Domaine Leroy Bourgogne 1999 (Burgundy; $39.99/bottle)
Brownish-red color. Aromas of dark plum, damp earth, leather, and something suggestive of dried mushrooms. Flavors of tart cherry and plum, leather, and earth. Lean, pure, and focused. Simple but nice.

b. Cathy Reserve Pinot Noir 2004 (Oregon; $44.99/bottle)
Dark ruby color. With a rich nose of plum, blackberry, oak, and bramble, this pinot offers flavors of sweet plum, oak, black licorice, and peppery spice, all balanced by lively acidity. There's perhaps less art in this pinot than in the Burgundy, but for straight pleasure the Cathy takes the prize.

Winner: New World

3. Syrah/Grenach/Mourvedre: Rhone (France) vs. Washington State

a. Jaboulet Les Cedres Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003 (Rhone; $44.99/bottle)
Dark red. This medium-full bodied wine offers a muted nose of earth, brine, violets, and garrigue. On the palate it shows bright raspberry fruit, black licorice, wet stone, and pepper. Simple and perhaps overly-restrained compared to other CdP's at this price point, it's nevertheless well-balanced and easy to drink. Long, licoricey finish, though with a little alcohol lingering.

b. McRea Sirocco 2004 (Washington; $39.99/bottle)
This dark mauve Rhone-style blend displays aromas of dark berry, earth, and sweet spice. The flavor shows sweet ripe cherry and pomegranite fruit with toasty oak and black pepper and finishes with a subtle cocoa note. This was probably the closest matchup, with both wines being quite good, but the edge goes to the CdP for its balance and expressiveness.

Winner: Old World

4. Cabernet Sauvignon: Tuscany (Italy) vs. California

a. Cignale 2001 (Tuscany; $72.99/bottle)
Inky purple color. Great nose of black plum, horse blanket, and scorched earth. Big, black, ripe flavors sit on a still solidly tannic frame, with a distinctly farmy note on the back end. The most classically old-world of the reds in this lineup, this medium-full bodied super Tuscan has a smooth, velvety mouthfeel and a long finish.

b. Flora Springs Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (California; $79.99/bottle)
Very dark ruby in color, with a deep, rich, well-balanced nose dominated by plum, cassis, and oak. Great flavors of bitter plum, dark berry, menthol, and sweet peppery spice are pure enough to cut through the considerable acidity and still-young tannins. While both of these wines still need a few years in the bottle to show what they're really made of (I'd say minimum 3), the Cignale seems to offer a slightly more complete, balanced package.

Winner: Old World

And the winner is: Old World! All of these wines were a pleasure to drink, but the classic styling of the European wines in this lineup just edged the bold ripeness of the Americans.

If you were at the tasting, leave a comment and let me know your verdict! (Or even if you weren't: what do you tend to prefer, and why?)

Wow, what a deal!

2008-01-18T10:58:00.000-08:00

The first wave of close-out wines has arrived, and here is the list of bargains to peruse:

2005 Joseph Phelps Pastiche - A perennial favorite at the market, it's been inexplicably reduced to just $10.99 a bottle (originally $14.99). The Pastiche is a beautiful red blend from California, showing lots of fruit and a silky mouthfeel. An absolute steal for the price!

2005 Paul Reitz Mercurey - Hard to find a "village" burgundy for under $40, but this pinot noir has been marked down to $14.99 (originally $24.99). Tart, tangy fruit frames this light to medium-bodied red, but it also reveals a hint of earthiness as well. Great value.

2005 Domaine de Mont Redon L'Orangerie - Ripe and juicy, this is a good value red from Provence. Only $7.99 (origianlly $9.99), it's a great every-day wine.

2003 Ey Vigne Las Collas Grenache - Originally $9.99, the price of this red has been slashed to $3.99 a bottle. From the Roussillon area of France, this shows pretty good fruit beginning to mid-palate, but falls apart on the finish. Not really a wine to enjoy on its own, but decent enough to serve with pizza, or to use for cooking.

Look for another round of close-out deals next week.

Cheers!

Tasting Notes (Jan. 10): Rhone Wines

2008-01-13T18:58:00.000-08:00

I don't know much about the Rhone river itself--just a few encyclopedia-level facts about its origin, course, and cultural significance--but I have floated on it. Or, rather, I've floated on the wines produced in the valley it cuts from Lyons to the Mediterranean sea. Bold, rich, assertive, and utterly distinctive, the wines of France's Rhone valley never fail to sweep me up in a torrent of berries, earth, and meaty flavors and aromas. All I can do, then, is hang on and enjoy the rapids.

1. Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage White 2003 ($20.99/bottle)
Medium-yellow straw color, with a nose of fresh hay, sea air, and smoky spice. Tasty cantaloupe and spicy herbs fill out the palate. Medium-bodied wine with a pleasant, lightly oily texture. Very dry, long finish is laced with white pepper.

2. Guigal Condrieu 2005 ($49.99/bottle)
Half a shade darker than the Crozes-Hermitage, with a nose of faint musk, green apple, and peppermint. There's a nice symmetry between the aromas and the flavors of musk, bitter herbs, and peppermint to finish. Medium-full body, with some glycerine providing a rich mouthfeel.

3. Perraud Cornas "Les Coteaux" 2000 ($26.99/bottle)
The in-your-face nose of this wine reveals aromas of blackberry fruit, pencil shavings, and just a whiff of barnyard. On the palate one gets a blast of rustic wild berries, brambles, graphite, and pepper. Drying tannins on the finish. A big wine for big appetites. Try this with lamb or a long-simmered stew.

4. Domaine Lafond Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($45.99/bottle)
This wine offers a tantalizing nose of black and blue berries, violets, caramel, and minerals. On the palate it's a little tight yet, with a big, firm tannic structure. Even now, though, this CdP is a pleasure to drink, with delicious flavors of ripe berry and cassis, exotic spice, and graphite for days. Mouthfilling, rich, and big. Decant for several hours and drink now or cellar for 5-10 years.

5. Chapoutier La Bernardine Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($58.99/bottle)
Great nose of forest floor, pencil lead, and sweet spice. This wine is dark, peppery, and meaty, with a veeeeeery long, minty finish revealing a black olive note after about a minute. Well-integrated tannins make this delicious CdP more accessible right now than the Lafond, but in a few years I think the Lafond will shine brighter. (So you'd better buy one of each.)

6. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1998 ($125.99/bottle)
Bill nailed this one in his recent post on the top wines poured at Stimmel's during 2007. This wine "taxed my brain," as Bill put it, more than any other wine of the night, and maybe more than any other wine, period. I smelled it for 10 minutes and was still discovering new aromas--a strong core of cedar shavings supports waves of sweet cherry, stewed meat, olives, cooked greens, caramel, and graphite, and some other sensations I can't begin to put into words. I almost hated to move on to tasting, but when I did I discovered a medium-bodied, ultra smooth, satiny wine with flavors of very ripe dark fruits, a blast of pepper, cedar, smoke, and graphite and a long, peppery, mineral-laden finish. The only off note was a tart acidity between the initial rush of flavors and the long finish.

7. Banyuls 1947 ($149.99/bottle)
The color of black tea, this dessert wine features rich, meaty aromas of caramel, whiskey, and spiced orange. The nose is paralleled nicely by flavors of caramel, vanilla, coffee, and orange peel wrapped in a surprisingly lithe texture. This wine is like a lighter-bodied port--perfect after dinner on a summer evening when the weather is more evocative of Cannes than Canturbury.

Tasting Notes (Jan. 3): Oi Oi Oi!

2008-01-09T19:39:00.000-08:00

I was trying--unsuccessfully--to come up with an introduction to my tasting notes for last week's lineup of lip-smacking Aussies. Then Bill posted the link (below) to the Victoria Bitter ad. Problem solved. A symphony orchestra playing entirely with beer bottles? It's the perfect mix of high and low that exemplifies the paradox that is Australian wine (and, apparently, beer): refined but accessible, serious but fun, world-class but devoid of snobbism. What's not to love? On, then, to the notes:

1. Grant Burge Holy Trinity 2002 ($35.99/bottle)
This visually-appealing brick-red wine has a wonderful nose of blackberry, warm spice, and mineral-laden earth reminiscent of the red clay of southwest Missouri where I grew up. Bold flavors of raspberry soda, tart cherry, horehound, and leather complete the package.

2. Reilly's Barking Mad Shiraz 2004 ($17.99/bottle)
A typically inky-purple shiraz, this wine hits your nose with a riot of smashed black and blue berries sprinkled with cinnamon and nutmeg. The flavor reveals the same maelstrom of fruit, quickly followed by exotic spice and a pleasurable dark chocolate finish, with some alcohol present.

3. Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz 2006 ($19.99/bottle)
This shiraz is a deep, opaque purple with ruby edges and offers aromas of blueberry compote, toasty oak, violets, and something suggestive of meat juices. The flavor opens with a quick dash of salt, which immediately gives way to black plum and blackberry fruit overlayed with toasted exotic spices. Finishes with medium-grained tannins. Will drink well for another 3 -5 years.

4. Boarding Pass Shiraz 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
If you hate cutesy packaging, then close your eyes when you buy this wine, whose label resembles an actual airline "boarding pass." But do buy it. With a beautiful nose of cherry, plum, toasty oak, clove, and cinnamon, this wine smells like a Christmas kitchen--there's even a bit of milk chocolate in the aroma. It offers equally enticing flavors of rich blackberry liqueur, black pepper, clove, and chocolate. The long, juicy berry finish reveals traces of black pepper after 30-40 seconds. Firm but integrated tannins provide ample structure. Maybe an unbeatable value, this one is up there with the Altos de Luzon.

5. Marquis Philips Shiraz "9" 2004 ($39.99/bottle)
What a sight this wine is in the glass: purple, dark, and deliciously thick. Dark berry, black pepper, spice, and oak aromas--tantalizing though they are--did not prepare me for the hugely extracted (and quite wonderful) flavors of dark blackberry and blueberry fruit, pungent black pepper, and menthol. The long finish suggests blueberry pie with mint-laced whipped cream. Firm tannins will keep this wine drinking beautifully for 3-5 or more years.

6. Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2000 ($74.99/bottle)
This wine has a definite "wow" factor on the nose, with incredibly complex aromas of dried currant, raisin, black olive, and smoked meat. Even more extracted than the Marquis Philips, the Stonewell Shiraz may not be for everybody's tastes. But all the better if it is for yours, because this is a special wine, with intense flavors of superripe grape, raisin, black olive, brine, and animal blood. And, if you can believe it, the wine is still young, with a bold, tannic structure. I can only imagine what it will be in 7-10 years.

7. Royal Tokaji Wine Company Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos (Hungary; $39.99/500 ml bottle)
Golden honey-colored, this beautiful Tokaji offers a nose of baked pineapple, butter toffee, and candied lemons. What makes it beautiful, though, is the balance: with ultra-tart citrus on one end and sweet pineapple and canned peach syrup on the other, the wine is poised in perfect tension. It is very sweet, to be sure, but the crisp acidity makes it seem ethereally light. Not to be missed.

Beer Orchestra

2008-01-09T16:14:00.000-08:00

There is a veritable ocean of sleazily mendacious beer ads out there, as most of us with half a brain already know (Dude. Dude? Dude!). For some reason, I found this one pretty entertaining - any chance we might get them at Kobacker?

http://youtube.com/watch?v=uXvKb6oS7mA

Cheers!

Not Another List

2008-01-08T18:51:00.000-08:00

Well, actually it IS another list; I've assembled a second bakers dozen. These 13 wines represent some of the best quality-to-price ratio wines that we tasted at Stimmel's Market in 2007. While a "value" likely means different things to different people, I've taken the liberty to define the values below as wines that retail for under $20 per bottle. These are the great wines that we can all afford to drink on a regular basis:

13. Chatter Creek 105 Blend 2004 (Washington, $19.99) - Washington state is a very exciting area for wine these days. Seemingly a fusion of both new and old worlds, with consistently good vintages in recent years, it's no wonder that great wines like this one are hitting the market. Delicate, yet complex, this is a refined red that drinks like it's at least twice the price.

12. Pieropan Soave Classico 2004 (Italy, $17.99) - This was one of the "wow" whites that I had in '07. Citrus, mineral and a touch of creaminess all combined to make this the best Italian white I've had in a long time.

11. Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre 2003 (Italy, $19.99) - Great bang for the buck. A couple of steps up from the average grocery store chianti, the "plaza of the bull" offers lots of fruit, a touch of vanilla, and good tannins. A nice gateway red.

10. Vina Albali 1997 (Spain, $16.99) - A brown-ish hue in the glass. A mouthful of pencil lead and maturing tannins. This Spanish red delivers a peek of what truly expensive, properly aged French reds can offer at about 1/20th the price.

9. Mollydooker The Boxer 2005 (Australia, $19.99) - Brains to go with the braun, this big Aussie Shiraz is like the playground bully who is also one of the smartest kids in the class. Gobs of blueberries and blackberries, with some spice on the finish.

8. Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (New Zealand, $12.99) - There were other bottles of NZ SB that I liked better at the time (like the very good Nobilo), but upon reflection, the Babich was the most memorable that I tried the past year. Uncompromising in its fresh, tart fruit blast, it assaults the taste buds and just doesn't stop.

7. Joseph Phelps Pastiche 2005 (California, $14.99) - Maybe not as sleek and velvety as the '02 and '03 we've had in previous years, but lots of fruit and that trademark Phelps touch still makes this a terrific value. Nine cases of the Pastiche sold out in just over a week, so we'll have to wait a while to see if the '06 can keep the tradition going.

6. Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc 2006 (California, $13.99) - Anything but your average boring California white, it delivers everything that you'd expect from a wine three times its price. Good acidity, peaches, melons, citrus, with a bit of creaminess to cement the great texture. Best value white wine of the year.

5. Shingleback Shiraz 2004 (Australia, $19.99) - Copius amounts of white pepper frame the juicy fruit flavors in this exciting red. The one Aussie shiraz I tasted this year that had a bit of old-world flair. Great stuff.

4. Liparita Enlace Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (California, $18.99) - I can't figure out why we don't sell this wine by the truckload. It's darn near impossible these days to find a really good Cali Cab under $35, but this one delivers the goods and then some. Currant, mocha, blackberries, earth, leather, the gang's all there just waiting to be discovered. This under-$20 Cab blows away dozens of $35+ Cabs that I drank this past year.

3. Mas Donis 2004 (Spain, $13.99) - I'm a sucker for those velvety, silky reds that cost more than a round of golf at Pebble Beach, so it's pretty darn satisfying to find a wine for a mere $14 that can give you a taste of the good life. Simply put, the Mas Donis was the smoothest, easiest red to drink this year.

2. Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2004 (Washington, $11.99) - I think Columbia Crest is the best "big" winery in the U.S., if not the world. I find it pretty darn impressive for a winery of their size to churn out an affordable, complex, delicious wine such as the '04 Merlot, instead of bottling homogenized dreck for the big box grocery store shelves, as many others do. I probably recommended this wine more than any other to customers throughout the year.

1. Altos de Luzon 2004 (Spain, $16.99) - What can I say? One of my favorite 13 wines of the year at any price, it's certainly the best value we've had the pleasure to sell this year at the market. Buy this wine by the case, and impress your friends.

Cheers!

Clearance - Global Warming Edition

2008-01-07T08:43:00.000-08:00

As the mercury rises to record levels today (heck, we're PAINTING the facade of Stimmel's Market in tee-shirts in January), it's time to start celebrating the most wallet-friendly month of the year for wine and beer lovers. January is the month in which wholesalers run fire sales to get rid of product that they might have over-ordered the year before, and we'll typically feature dozens of incredible values here at Stimmel's Market. Our clearance wines will likely hit next week, but we already have a couple of incredible beer values right now.

Buffalo Bill's Pumpkin Ale, the first commercially viable pumpkin beer sold across the U.S., is on sale for only $2.99 a six-pack (regular price $7.99), and Barrelhouse Oktoberfest is only $1.99 per 22 oz. bottle (regular price $4.99). These are both good beers that are still fresh and drinking exceptionally well. Pick them up here at the market before they're gone, and look for the wine values to start pouring in soon.

Cheers!

Tasting Notes (Dec. 20): Spätlese Version

2008-01-02T12:45:00.000-08:00

Thanks to holiday travel, these notes have been on the vine a couple extra weeks now. But, like a fine Riesling, they should be all the sweeter for the wait.

1. Beringer Sbragia Limited-Release Chardonnay 2002 ($29.99/bottle)
Deep yellow luminescent color, like gold tinsel, with inviting aromas of butter, earth, mango, and oak. Rich and buttery on the palate, with flavors of apple pie and a hint of smoke. The high alcohol content (over 15%) gives this opulent wine a viscous, full body and a light but pleasant touch of sweetness. Ridiculously long finish, with some alcohol lingering. Pair with lobster or just enjoy.

2. Aramis Shiraz 2003 ($23.99/bottle)
With aromas of blueberries, vanilla, violets, and a faint earthiness, this plush, full-bodied shiraz offers flavors of juicy dark berries and oak. Finishes long with fresh ripe blueberries and fine-grained tannins. Very pleasant.

3. Chappellet Mountain Cuvee 2005 ($28.99/bottle)
Aromas of purple grape, plum, and roasted meat give way to flavors of black cherry and plum fruit, aromatic herbs, and stewed meat. This rustic but nice Bordeaux-style blend reminds me a bit of an Argentinian carmenère, which is never a bad thing.

4. Caldwell Rocket Science 2005 ($44.99/bottle)
Much as I hate it when winemakers label their wines "proprietary blend" instead of listing the constituent grapes and their ratios, I have to admit that such wines are often very good. This red blend is no exception, with an intriguing nose of cherry, charcoal, and cinnamon and flavors of cherry, leather, spice, and toasty oak--all followed by a long, vanilla-laced finish. Soft tannins support a smooth, velvety mouthfeel.

5. Pahlmeyer Jayson 2004 ($55.99/bottle)
This tasty and vibrant red offers aromas of blackberry, currant, toast, and a slight but not unpleasant greenness. On the palate, it shows flavors of ripe black plum, pepper, and leather, finishing with bitter herb. Very lively and kinetic in the mouth, with enough acid to make it a versatile choice with food.

6. Turnbull Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($47.99/bottle)
This cab offers intriguing aromas of black currant, leaf lettuce, and caramelized meat juices; flavors of very ripe, rich cherry and sweet rhubarb; and a decadent mouthfeel that can only be described as gooey. The long, luxurious finish turns to vanilla as it lingers. With well-integrated but firm tannins, it could stay in the bottle another 5-10 years. Perfect by itself or alongside a fillet with demi-glace.

7. Chambers Muscadelle NV ($16.99/bottle)
This non-vintage dessert wine smells like honey, pineapple upside down cake, and musk. Very thick in the mouth, it offers pronounced flavors of honey and ultra-caramelized brown sugar laced with cigarette tobacco. Very long finish with honeysuckle predominating.

Baker's Dozen

2007-12-26T07:53:00.000-08:00

I was originally going to post a list of my 5 favorite wines that were poured here at Stimmel's in 2007 (pared from about 600), but it became increasingly difficult to pick and choose. So, I decided to post my "lucky seven", then it became my "top ten", "top twelve", and now I've finally gone with the "baker's dozen", an ode to the OTHER part of Stimmel's Market that generates buzz, our scratch-baked donuts, pastries, cookies, etc.

All 13 bottles of wine are red (I'll post a top white wine/dessert wine list soon), and range in price from about $16 all the way up to $125. Keep in mind that there are several, if not dozens, of excellent wines that fell just short of making the list, and the wines on the list are reflective of a combination of my personal palate, as well as the general reaction of customers who enjoyed them at the tastings. Here they are, with some of my notes:

13. Chateau Fontenil 2003 (France Bordeaux, $39.99) - From the hot '03 vintage, this Bordeaux was showing quite well when poured back in February. Complex, with notes of ripe fruit and chocolate, yet tannic with a touch of vanilla from the oak in the finish. Delicious, and a wine that will age gracefully for years.

12. Sea Smoke Southing 2005 (California Pinot Noir, $54.99) - Easily one of the two best Pinots that I tasted this year, it was a wine that was full-bodied, somewhat tannic, with fresh berry flavors and a touch of spice. Just an absolute pleasure to drink.

11. Shirvington Shiraz 2004 (Australia, $69.99) - Sure, I've tasted several big, ripe, Aussie fruit bombs in the last year, some of which were real head-turners (like anything from Mollydooker), but this Shirvington made a real impression on me when I poured it way back in January. Lots of fruit as expected, but an amazing silky, velvety mouthfeel and a finish that went on forever.

10. Altos de Luzon 2004 (Spain Jumilla Blend, $16.99) - This might not be in the same league as the other reds on this list, but the fact that it's an amazing value (and my pick for best red wine under $20) gives this Spanish gem an invite. Ripe fruit with a touch of acidity and a wonderful mouthfeel make this an all-time QPR - and kudos to Lance for discovering it.

9. Orin Swift The Prisoner 2005 (California Blend, $36.99) - Zinfandel is the lead grape in this blend, and the fruit is there, but what made this wine so great to me was the balance and the smoothness. It's more than just a pretty face, and along with The Impostor from JC Cellars, re-defined what I thought a California Zinfandel blend could be.

8. Clos Mogador 1998 (Spain Priorat, $59.99) - The first of two great Priorat wines on the list, we actually poured this wine three times in 2007; twice on Thursday nights, and at the Monday night cheese tasting in September. I actually tasted this wine for the first time over a year ago, and it was really my first foray into the wonderful world of Priorat, which became my favorite up-and-coming wine region this past year. The Mogador is powerful, yet nuanced, rich and fruit-driven, yet earthy and mineral-laden. A terrific wine.

7. Red Car Shake Rattle and Roll 2005 (California Syrah, $59.99) - In a year in which I fell in love with Syrah all over the world, the Red Car was the best from California. It's everything that I love about new-world wine: rich, plush, complex, drinkable now but able to cellar for a few years or more. This is a big wine.

6. Etude Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (California, $85.99) - I'd read some great wine press about this Cab before finally getting around to pouring it in March. I wasn't the least bit disappointed, and it was one of those rare times for me when the bottle of wine lived up to the hype. Incredibly silky, yet lively and spicy, it was the best California Cab I tried in 2007.

5. Miner Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 (California, $65.99) - This was my favorite Pinot of the year (just edging the Sea Smoke). Too easy to like, it was unbelievably smooth, velvety and creamy, with just the right amount of dark berry fruit and a touch of earthiness.

4. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2001 (France, Rhone $74.99) - A slightly oxidized version of this wine is still quite good, as we found out at the Syrah tasting back in August. The first bottle we opened had an issue with the cork, and despite Sara's warning, I foolishly poured it anyway. I thought the fruit was generally missing, but it otherwise was still well-structured and enjoyable. Well, when I finally decided to pop the second bottle and try it, I was blown away by the difference. The "good" bottle was unreal in its complexity, and the bright fruit flavors made this a serious candidate for the top spot.

3. Fratelli Revello Barolo 2001 (Italy, $69.99) - I first poured this at a tasting back in late 2006, and had I compiled a "best of '06" list, it might have won. Well, I also poured it again early in '07, and it's still in the mix . The best Italian wine (and I've been fortunate to try many) I've had this year, the fruit sings and the texture takes "silky" to a whole new dimension.

2. Mas Igneus 2001 (Spain Priorat, $74.99) - Spain is such an exciting place these days for wine lovers, and there are so many growing areas in different parts of the country that are enjoying massive upgrades in overall quality. I easily could have included a couple of different wines from Ribera del Duero, Rioja or Toro on the list (as it is, I've got 3 Spanish wines already), but I can't deny my affinity for great Priorat efforts like this one. A stunning wine, nary a day has gone by the last 10 months without me thinking of the Mas Igneus. Simply a masterpiece.

1. Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1998 (France Rhone, $125.99) - The '98 La Chapelle fueled more strong reactions than any other wine that we poured in '07. Several people claimed it was "the best wine that they ever had". Some likened it to "dishwater"; ah, the fervor, the passion. While I certainly enjoyed wines that were more of a hedonistic pleasure, and other wines that showed better fruit, more earth, and better balance, no wine taxed my brain like this one did. Too many aromas and flavors to identify, it was both playful and beguiling, and triggered my year-long obsession with Rhone's great wines.

Vin Mousseux...

2007-12-23T07:00:00.000-08:00

...translated as "sparkling wine", takes center stage this time of year as we all have plenty to celebrate. New Year's is just around the corner, so stock up on bubblies for the festivities. Here at Stimmel's Market, we offer dozens of great sparklers, and always have something for every taste and budget. Here are a few ideas:

Champagne:
We have the classics, such as Dom Perignon and Perrier-Jouet, and also feature other heavy hitters, like Moet and Chandon White Star, Henriot, Pol Roger, Delamotte and Duval-Leroy.

California:
Look for outstanding bottles from top producers like Mumm Napa, Schramsberg, Roederer Estate and Piper Sonoma.

Values:
Easy on the wallet, nice bubblies from Tosti, Korbel, Cook's and Domaine St. Michelle are all crowd-pleasers.

Cheers!

New Beers of the Year

2007-12-22T15:02:00.000-08:00

Sometime around 1991, maybe '92, while listening to Achtung Baby for the gazillionth time and watching re-runs of Get a Life, I remember thinking to myself that there had to be more to beer than just Natural Light, Busch Light, and their associated ilk. Rolling Rock represented the most dramatic departure from the same "flavors" that I'd experienced in all of those mass-produced light beers, and it only had a faint dryness that set it apart. I bought my first six-pack of Sam Adams Boston Lager a few days later, and was off and running into the world of craft beer.

My, how things have changed. I've personally tried over 3,000 beers in the last 15 years or so, including a couple hundred new ones this year. I've compiled a list of what I think to be the 10 best new American beers from 2007 - check them out below and let me know what you think!

10. Chicken Killer Barleywine (Santa Fe Brewing Co., Santa Fe, NM) - Great name, but an even better beer. Unlike many domestic barleywines that want to "kill" you with hops, this one is a malt lover's dream. Huge, malty, grainy sweetness with a touch of hoppiness for balance, it's one of the best barleywines I've ever had the pleasure to drink.

9. Backwoods Bastard (Founders Brewing Co., Grand Rapids, MI) - Another malty gem, this is a barrel-aged version of their Scotch Ale. Incredibly smooth, almost velvety, it's a real treat.

8. Prohibition Pilsner (Great Lakes Brewing Co., Cleveland, OH) - A dead ringer for Pilsner Urquell, this brew reaffirmed my belief that Great Lakes truly has the midas touch.

7. BORIS The Crusher Imperial Oatmeal Stout (Hoppin' Frog Brewing Co., Akron, OH) - Incredible effort from a new brewery here in the buckeye state. The BORIS is a roasted, full-bodied, powerful dark ale that somehow manages to melt in your mouth. It's easily the best stout I drank this year.

6. Copper Kettle Weiss (New Glarus Brewing Co., New Glarus, WI.) - Think of smoked bananas. Yeah, it does sound weird, but trust me, I couldn't get enough of this beer. A rich, dark wheat brew that hits the spot anytime of year. Highly addictive.

5. Mad Elf (Troegs Brewing Co., Harrisburg, PA) - I've been wanting to try this beer for years, and thanks to my friend Glenn, I finally got the chance a few weeks ago. Wow, it is like chocolate covered cherries dipped in a heavy liquid malt. Delicious, and strong - a perfect sipper on a cold winter night.

4. Boss Cox Dark IPA (Barrelhouse Brewing Co., Cincinnati, OH) - A blast of caramel and toffee is followed by pleasant notes of spice and bitterness. An incredibly complex beer.

3. Dancing Man Wheat (New Glarus Brewing Co., New Glarus, WI.) - Quite possibly the best American wheat beer that I've ever tried. Hints of banana and clove, crisp and easy to drink, it is the ultimate summertime beer, and gives the best German Hefeweizens a run for their money.

2. Pumking (Southern Tier Brewing Co., Lakewood, NY) - I've tried dozens of pumpkin beers over the years, many of which have been underwhelming, some just plain awful. Pumking is easily the best of the bunch, and stands out for its natural pumpkin flavor and amazing creaminess. It tastes exactly like a slice of pumpkin pie with melted vanilla ice cream. Amazing stuff.

1. Christmas Ale (Kuhnenn Brewing Co., Warren, MI) - Milk chocolate, dark chocolate, vanilla, coffee, this one has it all. A hedonistic pleasure as well as a beer to tickle the mind. One of the few beers I've had in my life that had me thinking about it every day for months.

Cheers!

Blind Tasting Notes (Dec. 17): Aromas of Humble Pie

2007-12-18T11:31:00.000-08:00

Last night was the last blind tasting of 2007, and let's just say I'm looking forward to the first one of 2008. My score of 1 out of 7 wines correctly identified was statistically no more accurate than if I had just shouted out the wines one at a time and let a trained chicken peck its way through the anonymous bottles. Still, the evening wasn't a total wash.

First, there's the fact that everybody present got to taste a bunch of very nice wines. (So how bad could it have been, really?)

Second, I can still rely on my old friends, the Rhones. Southern or northern--it doesn't seem to matter: for whatever reason, they're as easy for me to identify in a lineup as an olive in a box of chocolates. It's nice to have something one can count on, no?

Finally, as I look back at my notes, I see clues in my descriptions that, had I just not thought so much, might have led me to the right choice. That is--and I suspect that the same is true for most devoted amateur tasters--it seems not to have been my senses that failed me but, rather, my ability to use the information they provided to correctly identify the wine I was tasting. Indeed, that's a truly difficult thing to do, in part because most of us who taste wines at Stimmel's just don't have a deep well of experience to draw on (I've probably only tried two or three pinotages in my life, for example, and only a handful more malbecs). But it's also difficult because it's a big jump from being able to articulate a linearly-experienced series of sensory impressions to being able to synthesize those impressions into a coherent whole that allows one to say, with authority, "This wine comes from Priorat."

I'll leave the question of just how important the power of suggestion is in interpreting wines' qualities (and quality!) for another time, though the short answer has to be that it certainly comes into play for all but the most naturally gifted and independently-minded tasters (and maybe even still for them). For the rest of us, though, we'll have to accept the occasionally pronounced and concentrated aroma of humble pie in our wines.

Now, the notes, with my guess (with a line through it) followed by the correct answer (including winery, vintage, and price, which was only supplied with the answers; beforehand, all that was supplied was the kind of wine, either by varietal or region):

1. ~~Shiraz~~ Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2005 ($18.99/bottle)
Oaky, jammy nose, with aromas of black and red berries and some spice. Dark red, this medium-full bodied wine offers flavors of tart blackberry, spice, and licorice.

2. (I got this one right.) Domaine Saint Siffrein Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003 ($29.99/bottle)
The tasting sheet listed "France Southern Rhone" as an option, but I knew this was a CdP. Medium-red tinged with brown, the wine boldly and without shame puts out aromas of manure/barnyard layered with loads of pencil shavings (graphite and woody aromas) and a slight brininess. Very smooth, with drying tannins that could still soften with another year or two in the bottle, the wine offers flavors of blackberry, cedar, graphite, and barnyard.

3. ~~Napa Cabernet Sauvignon~~ Torres Salmos Priorat 2005 ($32.99/bottle)
Dark purple/garnet, with notes of plum, cassis, and vanilla on the nose. Sweet cherry fruit, lots of spice, and toasty oak on the palate.

4. ~~Pinotage~~ Zenato Ripassa 2004 ($26.99/bottle)
Inky purple, with aromas of big, bold, grapey fruit layered with mineral and some slightly green, woody notes. Flavors of superripe blackberry and black plum, oak, spice, and stewed meat. Of all the wines I got wrong, this is the one I just plain shouldn't have missed, stewed meat or not.

5. ~~Priorat~~ Liparita Enlace Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($18.99/bottle)
Dark maroon, with a nose of ripe currant, cassis, and vanilla. Dark berry fruit flavor is layered with sanguine notes and violets.

6. ~~Malbec~~ Fairview Primo Pinotage 2002 ($24.99/bottle)
A blast of smoke on the nose--this wine smells like a bbq (with plum-based sauce). Lots of smoke, plums, and cherry on the palate, with a faint note of dried flowers.

7. ~~Ripassa~~ Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz 2005 ($17.99/bottle)
Very dark, opaque magenta, with aromas of candied spice, orange peel, and something like roasted chicken, and flavors of dark chocolate-covered orange peel, gran marnier, and clove. Very Christmassy wine (had it been a choice, and color notwithstanding, I would have said this was a Tuscan).

That's it. Here's to learning, and lemmee at 'em next time.

Tasting Notes: Napa Cabs (Dec. 13)

2007-12-14T07:47:00.000-08:00

I thought about giving this post the subtitle, "a lesson in terroir," because that's what it was. "Terroir" is difficult to translate from the French, but it is generally used to indicate the combined effect of soil, climate, and topography on the flavor of a wine and is usually applied to wines that have a distinct regional character. And while it can be difficult to tell where terroir ends and winemaking techniques begin (it's been said that American winemakers manipulate their wines to the detriment of their natural terroirs), last night's lineup of Napa Cabernets had enough in common that I have to believe they were expressing, at least in part, the place from which they came. So here they are. Can you get a sense of the terroir from my notes? (All wines are Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons except the Tokaji dessert wine at the end):

1. Ehlers Estate 2004 ($34.99/bottle)
With aromas of cassis, black currant, oak, and the slightest suggestion of smoke, this uncomplicated but very tasty medium-full bodied wine offers flavors of currant, tart plum, and oak, with a light herbal note on the finish. I want to drink this with a gourmet hamburger.

2. Robert Craig Affinity 2003 ($44.99/bottle)
Wonderful, enchanting aromas of dark berries, clove, cinnamon, and toasty oak gives way to flavors of tart raspberry fruit, oak, clove, and spice.

3. Whitehall Lane 2004 ($43.99/bottle)
Despite my comments about terroir above, this wine's nose stood out as different from the others, showing more cherry and adding a cedary layer to the more expected oak aromas (see also #5 below). It offers flavors of blackberry, oak, and a hint of cocoa, with firm tannins emerging on the finish, suggesting a need for longer aging. It's good now, but it will be better in two or three years.

4.Schweiger 2003 ($49.99/bottle)
Cassis, oak, and red licorice aromas lay the groundwork for flavors of blackberry, black currant, black pepper, and coffee, all rounded out by toasty oak. Full-bodied, this wine's plush mouthfeel mitigates the drying tannins on the finish.

5. Ghost Block 2004 ($59.99/bottle)
With ripe jammy fruit, green pepper, and a touch of smoke on the nose, this wine smells as much like an Argentinian carmenère as a Napa cab and, so, is one of two wines whose aromas don't fit this lineup's standard profile (see also #3, above). But with flavors of concentrated dark berry fruit, coca-cola, cinnamon, and fig, who cares? This is a big, rich, new-world wine, and I like it.

6. Fisher Coach Insignia 2003 ($71.99/bottle)
The berry and oak aromas of this wine are so concentrated and rich that they suggest a mixture of black cherry and cream sodas. The flavor reveals dark berry fruit that is very ripe without being sweet or cloying, followed by a hint of bitter herbs on the finish. The real strength of this wine, however, is its combination of plush mouthfeel--seamless red velvet--with surprising but well-balanced acidity. It simply screams for a rich slab of prime rib. Red velvet? Prime rib? Christmas, anyone?

7. Robert Mondavi Reserve 2004 ($125.99/bottle)
Very expressive nose of rich, concentrated cassis, vanilla, spice, and molasses cookie. Ripe cassis and berry fruit is well-balanced with candied spice and a hint of tar, all set against firm but integrated tannins. Oak is present but restrained. This wine is fantastic now; in five years it will be stunning. Don't forget the steak when you pop this knockout.

8. Tokaj Kereskedohaz Tokaji Aszu 2001 4 puttonyos (26.99/500 ml bottle)
This opulent dessert wine from Hungary will please both the palate and the intellect. It smells like smoked peach and apricot nectar mixed with just a splash of diesel fuel. (Somehow, it works.) Its flavor is even more intriguing, managing to be simultaneously very sweet and pleasantly bitter--apricot syrup infused with medicinal herbs and cigarette tobacco, which transsubstantiates into sweet pipe tobacco on the improbably long finish. This is Sauternes after reading Kafka.

A Good Year

2007-12-13T09:32:00.000-08:00

As the book closes on 2007, I spent some time the last few days analyzing the wine tasting "lineup cards" that have been provided every Thursday night this year (except for Thanksgiving), and was surprised myself by just how many great wines have been poured. From a "value" tasting back on the 4th of January through last week's "best of" celebration, over 325 wines have been served on Thursday nights throughout the year, and another 250 or so have been offered on Mondays. That's nearly 600 wines!

The tastings this year fueled several trends at Stimmel's Market; Spanish wines were a big hit, and with over 40 solid wines poured this year, the selection of Spanish reds soared. Our French selection blossomed as well, notably dozens of additions in the areas of Rhone and Bordeaux. California Cabernets, as popular as they were at the beginning of the year, continued to be the ultimate crowd-pleasers (and by the way, don't miss TONIGHT'S great Napa Cab tasting), and good Pinot Noir from California and elsewhere was had by all. Great beers from around the world continued to flow, and we managed to fit in sake, mead, and other assorted goodies in the past 12 months. Next week I'll post my personal favorites of the year.

Stimmel's luckily added Sara Thieman to the wine and beer staff, and we somehow coerced Lance Massey to post his Thursday night tasting notes (which are simply great). As 2008 looms, look for more of the same, as we will continue to scour the world in search of great wines, great bargains, and fun themes for tastings. January will feature a HUGE Rhone tasting, a New World vs. Old World taste-off, more of the Top 100 wines of '07, another great cheese tasting, and the first Stimmel's Market field trip (details coming soon).

All of us here at Stimmel's look forward to seeing all of you in the coming weeks, and wish you the best this holiday season!

Cheers!
Bill Stimmel

Lance's Tasting Notes: The Best of '07

2007-12-06T20:27:00.000-08:00

Stimmels' Thursday, December 6 tasting featured only wines from Wine Spectator's prestigious list of the top 100 wines of 2007. Does it get any better than that?

Still, there's one problem with tasting truly great, or even very good, wines: sometimes they're so seamless, so well-integrated, that it's hard to pick out specific flavors and aromas. When that happens, I turn to other facets of a wine--body, mouthfeel, balance, etc. So, while the descriptions below may contain some of the same taste and aroma descriptors (how, after all, can one say a wine smells like smoked salmon when one can barely discern smoke at all from among the superfine mesh of flavors that it comprises?), there will be noticeable differences in descriptions of these other facets. Maybe as my skills as a taster develop, I'll be able to consistently distinguish pine from resin, saddle leather from worn boot, or roasted game from charcuterie. But for now, I'll make do with the tools I've got. Here goes:

(Numbers in parentheses indicate the wine's rank on Wine Spectator's top 100 wines of 2007)

1. Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc 2006 (California) $13.99/bottle (#35)
Nice, shimmery-silver color, with very pleasant aromas of citrus, herb, and something suggestive of richness I can't pin down. The simple flavor profile of lemon tart, herbs, and light cream is very well-integrated in this medium-bodied, very smooth and supply-textured wine.

2. Amisfield Pinot Noir 2005 (New Zealand) $35.99/bottle (#22)
Pretty brick red color. Aromas of cherry, strawberry licorice, smoke, and damp earth unfold in the flavor as well (with a hint of spice thrown in) in this crisply acidic pinot. A great food wine.

3. Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras 2005 (France) $26.99/bottle (#97)
Dark magenta color. Aromas of sea, green olive, white pepper, and blackberry. Medium bodied, with nice flavors of blackberry, intense peppery spice, brine, and pencil lead. This red from the southern Rhone would be a perfect match with just about any dishes (esp. mediterranean) made with olives or rosemary.

4. Chateau Pontet-Canet 2004 (France) $49.99/bottle (#34)
Dark red with a lightly brownish tint, this medium-full Bordeaux shows lots of leather, earth, and red ripe berries on the nose. Behind the firm, still-young tannins, one can sense ripe currant and loads of leather and minerality wanting to burst through. In time. Very smooth mouthfeel.

5. Owen Roe Ex Umbris 2005 (Washinton) $29.99/bottle (#69)
This syrah didn't show me much on the nose, with faint spice, ripe blueberry, and something like tree bark (or another term for a mix of earthy and woody). But the taste was a different story: bold, lush, and kinetic, flavors of superripe blue and purple berries, intense peppery spice, and hints of graphite and licorice zipped around in my mouth. This full-bodied wine is like a fine suede: deeply textured and tactile but fairly elegant at the same time.

6. JC Cellars The Impostor 2005 (California) $37.99/bottle (#52)
This full-bodied blend of zinfandel, mourvedre, petit syrah, and syrah is dark purple, with aromas of blackberry liquer and wild brambles dominating. The wine is so ripe and concentrated it's almost syrupy, with extracted flavors of sweet berry liqueur and superripe berries, zippy spice, and a lightly salty, sanguine note. When I hear people say they don't drink fine wine because they couldn't appreciate it, I know they've never had a wine like this one. It's hard not to love something with this much sheer flavor and texture.

7. Mollydooker Carnival of Love 2005 (Australia) $79.99/bottle (#8)
Did I say "The Impostor" was thick and concentrated? Geeeez. This very full-bodied, inky, purple-black wine smells like blueberry pie with vanilla ice cream, and in the mouth it is absolutely decadent--oozingly ripe, spicy, thick, syrupy, chewy, luscious almost to a fault. Parker gave it a 99. I wouldn't go that far (it's almost too much), but this is a wine you need to try before you die.

Lance's Tasting Notes

2007-12-03T19:10:00.000-08:00

Hi everybody. Lance here. I've been a regular at Stimmels' tastings since August of 2006, and Bill recently tapped me to post my notes on the wine side of Thursday's wine/beer tastings. I'm thrilled to be a part of Stimmels' effort to bring great craft beers and fine domestic and imported wines to BG and the surrounding area. So, without further ado, here are my notes on "Around the World," the tasting for Thursday, November 29.

1. Faively Bourgogne 2005. (France/Burgundy; 100% Chardonnay) $21.99/bottle
The first thing I noticed about this very interesting (and good) white Burgundy was that it smells like movie popcorn, with a combination of toast and butter aromas. On the palate the wine is buttery, with sour apple fruit and just a hint of smoke and minerality. Good acidity for pairing with food.

2. Chateau Gigognan Clos du Roi Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003 (France/Rhone). $49.99/bottle
This red is very different for a CdP, but if you give it a chance I think you'll like it. Rich and full-bodied, with flavors of black olive and brine followed by pronounced black licorice on the long finish.

3. Justin Orphan 2005 (California/Paso Robles; blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petite verdot, and petite syrah) $24.99/bottle
Simple but good, with bright, ripe cherry fruit and lots of vanilla. A bit on the oaky side for my taste, but lots of people will love this easy-to-drink red.

4. Planeta Syrah 2004 (Italy/Sicily) 39.99/bottle
Very nice wine. Loads of black currant and dark berry fruit with well-integrated herb, black pepper, and salt/blood flavors. With efforts like this, it's no surprise that Sicily has recently begun to get international attention for its wines.

5. Numanthia Termes 2005 (Spain/Toro; Tinta de Toro) $39.99/bottle
Wow. Robert Parker gave the 2004 vintage of this wine 94 pts., and I think this one is right on 2004's heels. Deep, rich, lush, and powerfully tannic, this very young red is already elegant and smooth--hedonism in a bottle. Still, I'd wait five, even ten+ years to drink it. If you would ever consider spending $40 on a wine, make it this one (which easily drinks like a $100+ wine).

6. Tait Ballbuster 2006 (Australia/Barossa; 80% shiraz, 10% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot) $17.99/bottle
Very ripe, concentrated dark berry fruit, layered with earth, minerality, and a touch of oak. More complex, and more enjoyable, than the average Aussie "fruit bomb."

7. Churchill Vintage Porto 1997 (Portugal) 76.99/bottle
I don't usually fall in line with "expert" opinions, but the Wine Spectator's description of blackberry and lead pencil are right on. Richly-textured, dense, and lightly sweet, with still-discernable tannins.

Ommegang Gift Pack

2007-12-03T15:54:00.000-08:00

We only have six of these gems: Ommegang gift packs, retailing for about $20 a box, containing a limited edition 10-year anniversary glass, a limited edition 750ml bottle of Chocolate Indulgence (a new holiday beer) and a 750ml bottle each of Three Philosophers and Hennepin.

Soft?

2007-12-03T15:30:00.000-08:00

A couple of weeks back, one my distributors dropped off a sample of the latest IPA (which will remain anonymous) for me to sample. I tried it at home later that night, and it was a truly horrible beer. Terribly unbalanced, the brew was so ridiculously over-hopped that I had the distinct flavor of bile (which I hadn't tasted since my college days, but that's another story) in my mouth for hours after I had taken my last sip.

India Pale Ales (aka IPA) have been one of the hottest craft beer styles on the market the past several years, and many self-described "hop-heads" can't get enough of 'em. There are some outstanding ones available (right here at Stimmel's Market), like Great Lakes Commodore Perry, Dogfish Head 60 Minute, Goose Island, Harpoon, Bell's Two Hearted and many more. The best India Pale Ales tend to balance the extreme hoppiness with a healthy dose of malted barley, resulting in fresh, spicy, citrusy beers that are framed by a slightly sweet breadiness.

Well, these days many brewers are trying to push the envelope on hoppiness, and in the process are kissing the malt good-bye. It's almost as if a bunch of guys are sitting around the brewhouse saying "Dude, let's put TWICE as much hops in the brew, that'll be COOL!". While creativity and experimentation are what make the American craft beer industry great, I believe the focus of bottling a new beer should be simple: Is it a well-made, quality product? Sadly, many are not.

And that brings me to my conversation with the distributor last week (after I had tried the IPA). When I told him that I thought the beer was out of balance, too hoppy, and just not very good, his reply was "Eh, you're just getting soft." Soft, no. Critical, yes.

Winter Whites

2007-12-01T17:09:00.000-08:00

I sat down with some friends earlier in the week to taste a handful of white wines. As it gets colder outside, most of us tend to think about big, chewy red wines, and begin a Winter-long white wine-drinking hiatus. Well, we defied that trend, and blind-tasted Sauvignon Blancs - specifically two bottles of Sancerre from the Loire valley in France, and two bottles of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region in New Zealand. All four were quite good, but I especially loved the two Kiwi whites.

Nobilo SB (retails for around $12), nearly reminded me of an Alsatian white, as it showed vibrant, zesty tart fruit balanced by a yeasty breadiness mid-palate. The Babich SB (retails for around $13), as one other taster described, was "an explosion of citrus fruit" on the palate. Unabashed, grapefruit and orange peel jump out of the glass, and the flavors remain persistent. If you're looking for good, thought-provoking, reasonably priced white wines to enjoy year-round, these New Zealand Sauv Blancs will do the trick.

Layered

2007-11-30T14:16:00.000-08:00

After a lengthy (i.e. 5 months) hiatus, one of the most popular Aussie Reds is finally back at Stimmel's Market. Layer Cake Shiraz, now at $15.99 a bottle, is still a great value; pick some up today!

Those Holiday Brews

2007-11-29T11:40:00.000-08:00

We're knee-deep in the holiday season, and we've got a pretty incredible selection (ahem...if I may say so...) here at the market. So far, here are some of the seasonal brews now available:

Great Lakes Christmas Ale
Goose Island Christmas Ale
Bell's Winter White
Moylan's White Christmas
Buckeye Brewing Ho Ho Ho
Great Divide Hibernation Ale
Samuel Smith Winter Welcome
Samuel Adams Winter Lager
Anchor Our Special Ale
Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale
Delirium Noel
DeDolle Still Nacht
Rogue Santa's Private Reserve
Penn Brewing St. Nikolas Bock
Blue Moon Full Moon
Southern Tier Old Man Winter
Summit Winter Ale

...and more.

Cheers!

Kill Ugly Radio

2007-09-05T18:31:00.000-07:00

The good folks at Lagunitas Brewing Company, out of Petaluma, California, happen to be big Frank Zappa fans. Really big. So big, in fact, they decided to honor Frank by releasing a special beer every year, named after his album covers. Last year's brew, "Freak Out" covered Frank's first album, but this year's brew, released here in Ohio yesterday, isn't called "Absolutely Free" (the title of Frank's second album). Instead, the Lagunitas guys, after talking with Frank's family, found out that Frank wanted to name his second album "Kill Ugly Radio". Well, the record company wasn't thrilled with the name, and it died on the vine - until now.

'Kill Ugly Radio" is an agressively hopped beer, veering into Double IPA territory, and can be had for a mere $3.99 per 22 oz. bottle. This is a no-holds-barred original brew; I think Frank would be proud.

On Pumpkins and Oktoberfest

2007-09-04T19:39:00.000-07:00

The Autumn beers are here. So far (with more yet to come in the next few weeks):

OKTOBERFEST
Great Lakes
Brooklyn
Goose Island
Left Hand
Penn Brewing
Stoudt's
Bell's
Hofbrau
Ayinger

PUMPKIN
Lakefront
Dogfish Head
Shipyard
Brooklyn
Blue Moon

Seasonal Creep

2007-08-13T12:00:00.000-07:00

One of the newer terms bandied about the retail business these days is "seasonal creep" - that is, the fact that seasonal items find their way on to retailers shelves earlier every year. Seasonal creep has found its way into the beer and wine business as well in recent years, although that's not such a bad thing. Christmas Ales hit the shelves in October these days, Summer Ales in April, and now Oktoberfest brews are available around the first of August.

We've received our first batch of Oktoberfests, all from Pennsylvania, and these malty lagers really hit the spot. Stoudt's, Weyerbacher and Pennsylvania Brewing Company all produce terrific Oktos - stop by today and try some, and remember, Christmas is just around the corner!

Hot Deals

2007-08-09T09:20:00.000-07:00

A couple of great close-out deals on beer to help beat the heat:

J.W. Dundee Hefeweizen - only $3.99 a sixer

Shiner Dunkel Weizen - also just $3.99 a six-pack

Get 'em while supplies last!

The Bitch is Back

2007-06-27T07:59:00.000-07:00

The "Bitch" Grenache, that is. Unavailable since Christmas, we've finally got this full-bodied, rich Australian Grenache back in stock, but only in a limited quantity. Pick some up today!

Allocated Beers?

2007-06-05T14:39:00.000-07:00

It's not uncommon for wines to be allocated to retailers (and restaurants) - that is, only so much of the wine is bottled and subsequently available, and then bottles are allocated to specific customers (wine shops, etc.) to sell.

Beer isn't far behind. New at the market this week are three allocated beers - buy 'em before they're gone:

Three Floyds Gumballhead Wheat - a Summer seasonal release from the venerable Indiana brewery, the Gumballhead is brewed with copious amounts of hops, giving it a citrus/piney flavor; a perfect thirst quencher.

Alesmith Speedway Stout - Big and bold, the Speedway shows notes of coffee and bitter chocolate. This is one of the most complex stouts brewed in the world.

Alesmith Wee Heavy Scotch Ale - Rich, strong, just another example of great brewing on the edge by Alesmith. Very malty, but deftly balanced, this is a beer to sip and savor.

New Brews

2007-05-25T06:49:00.000-07:00

Some great new beers at the market this week:

Weyerbacher Muse - A nice Belgian-style Farmhouse Ale that is light bodied and spicy.

Weyerbacher Old Heathen - Huge Imperial Stout, with notes of coffee and chocolate.

Ellicottville Blueberry Wheat - Pleasant, subtle blueberry flavors.

Also back in for the Summer:

Stoudt's Weizen

Goose Island Summertime

Samuel Adams Summer Ale

Get ready for some Cabs!

2007-05-21T17:17:00.000-07:00

This Thursday night (5/24), we'll be kicking off Summer with a big Cabernet Sauvignon tasting. Stop by and sample some of the best Cabs on the market, and take a bottle or two home for your Memorial Day barbecue.

You'll also find over a hundred different Cabernets at Stimmel's Market every day; Wonderful Cabs from all over California, Washington, France, and South America, and we'll have something for every budget. See you Thursday!

Blooming libations

2007-05-09T09:20:00.000-07:00

May's new arrivals (and we're only 9 days in) are too long to list, but here are a few:

Beer
Berghoff Red Bock - medium-bodied, malty and smooth, and on clearance for only $3.99 a sixer.
Bear Republic - This famed California brewery has just unleashed its hoppy lineup of beers here in Ohio. We just received the Racer 5, Big Bear Stout, Red Rocket, Hop Rod Rye, and the XP Pale Ale. They're all 22 oz. bottles at $4.99 each.

New Holland Lucid - A Kolsch-style brew ($8.99 6pk.)
New Holland Existential - 10 different types of hops and a truckload of malt ($6.99 22 oz.)

Otter Creek White Sail - Belgian-style wit, with hints of orange peel and coriander ($7.99 6pk.)

Wine
Bocce Red Zinfandel and Pinot Grigio - These California wines are on closeout from the distributor, and are priced to sell at just $3.75 per bottle.

Babich 2006 Sauvignon Blanc - The new vintage for Babich is a Wine Spectator "best buy"; exhibiting crisp grapefruit and granny smith apple aromas and flavors, it's a perfect white wine to sip on the patio.

Toasted Head Red Table Wine - From the Giguiere Ranch, this is a nice blend of Syrah, Petit Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And at only $10.99 a bottle, it's a great quality/price ratio (QPR).

Swingsville

2007-05-08T13:26:00.000-07:00

If you're looking for a blast of berry jam flavor, the Swingsville Red Zinfandel should be at the top of the list. From R&B cellars, this 2003 California Zin is on clearance (they've moved on to a new vintage), and is now only $7.99 (the regular price is $10.99). Pick some up at the market today!

Goose Me

2007-05-02T11:58:00.000-07:00

Check out the outstanding "Special Reserve" beers from Goose Island:

Demolition - A golden ale brewed with saaz and styrian golding hops for a grassy, citrus aroma and lots of the finest pale malt for a "honey-ish", intense flavor.

Matilda - Made with a rare yeast strain, the complex maltiness is balanced by a generous dose of fresh hops. This delicious ale is both fruity and spicy.

Pere Jacques - Loads of malt and Belgian yeast frame this very fruity and malty ale.

These goodies are each $9.99 per 4-pack; Goose Island is one of the most renowned Midwestern craft breweries, and has been brewing great beer for years. Stop by Stimmel's Market and pick up some of the best that they have to offer.

Cheers!

Fuller's

2007-04-30T11:39:00.000-07:00

It's been a long time, but a couple of beers from Fuller's lineup have made a triumphant return to Stimmel's. One of the most respected breweries in the U.K. (but difficult to get fresh here in Ohio), Fuller's London Pride and ESB are back on the shelves. The Pride is a nice medium-bodied, slightly hoppy pale ale, while the ESB is a rich, caramel-malt driven masterpiece. Both beers are worth seeking out.

Cheers!

Penn Invasion

2007-04-23T07:26:00.000-07:00

What a great Monday! I just found out this morning that the wonderful German-style beers from the Penn Brewing Company are going to be available in Ohio, and we should have them here at Stimmel's Market this week. Penn Brewing, located in Pittsburgh, has been brewing some of the best German beers in the states for over 20 years, and is one of my absolute favorite breweries in the country. Initially, we'll have their three flagship beers:

Penn Pilsner - An amber, Vienna-style lager with a delicate hop flavor and a nice caramel-roasted malt finish.

Penn Dark - Smooth, with a slight burnt-toast flavor derived from the black malt. This is simply the best Munich-style dark beer brewed in the United States.

Penn Weizen - An authentic southern-German wheat beer; very effervescent, with a pronounced banana-clove aroma and flavor. Delicious on a warm Spring afternoon.

Tin Roof

2007-04-19T14:28:00.000-07:00

Another great distributor closeout: Murphy-Goode "Tin Roof" 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, a crisp California white wine that normally sells for about $10 a bottle is now on clearance for $4.99! It's a perfect wine to sip on the patio as the weather gets warmer, so stock up while it lasts.

Can't you get it here in Ohio?

2007-04-14T11:41:00.000-07:00

Every week we''ll get a request here at Stimmel's for specific beers that we can't get. Why? Well, as a retailer in Ohio (or any other state in the country, for that matter), you're only allowed to purchase beer and wine from a distributor in your own state (hence our motto, "If it's available in Ohio we'll get it for you"). Luckily for those of us here in the Bowling Green area, Ohio distributors typically carry a great selection of products for retailers to bring into their stores, and as such, Ohio beer and wine stores boast one of the better selections of products in the country.

So what are the most requested brews that we can't get here in Ohio? The first is Fat Tire, a medium-bodied amber ale that has been the fastest-growing brand of beer in the U.S. for the last several years. Fat Tire is the flagship beer from New Belgium Brewing Co., and the Fort Collins, Colorado-based company only distributes their products West of the Mississippi (with the Chicago market as an exception).

The second most requested brew is Yuengling Amber. Yuengling is the country's oldest continuously operated brewery, and their products are available from Pennsylvania (their main brewery is in Pottsville, Pa.) to Florida. They don't distribute in Ohio yet.

The best way to get these (and other beers not available in Ohio) brews?

Road trip, baby!

Pinots Galore

2007-04-10T20:11:00.000-07:00

A bunch of new California Pinot Noirs have hit the shelves this week, and they're all 90-pointers in the $30-$60 price range. Try these delicate reds soon:

2004 Duckhorn Goldeneye Anderson Valley
2005 Melville Santa Barbara
2004 Flowers Sonoma Coast
2004 Orogeny Sonoma

Taste The Vulgarity

2007-04-08T07:51:00.000-07:00

I always love to gauge people's reactions when tasting certain wines (and beers), and over the years I've heard many entertaining adjectives to describe what is in the glass. A couple of weeks ago, I heard what has become my new favorite - someone called a wine's flavor profile "vulgar". Well, the wine in question (DeWaal Pinotage, $19.99 a bottle) shows off a myriad of in-your-face flavors, such as smoke, leather, and earth, and would pair well with smoked meats, a bowl of chili, or is a sensory experience all its own. Vulgar? Well, pick up a bottle and judge for yourself.

Brazil, Blasphemy, and The Wooden Shoe

2007-04-06T08:25:00.000-07:00

We sampled more new brews at last night's tasting, and there were four beers that really stood out. First, two German-style Brazilian beers: Eisenbahn Defumada Smoked Lager, and Eisenbahn Vigorosa Wheat Double Bock. The smoked lager tasted like a campfire in a glass, with a nice malt backbone accented by a rich, smoky flavor - it would pair up extremely well with ribs, other smoked meats, or even smoked salmon. The wheat double bock was very well done, and could've been mistaken for the genuine German version - a touch of clove and banana, with a sweet malt finish.

Next, Blasphemy - Weyerbacher's Belgian-style Quadrupel aged in oak barrels. A hint of candied sugar and vanilla complement the smooth malt profile, and makes this a very drinkable strong beer. At 13% alcohol, it's deceptively strong, but very well made.

Last, Wooden Shoe. There's a lot of history with this brand of beer, originally brewed from 1869 through the mid-1950's in the small town of Minster, Ohio. The brand has been resurrected, and is drinking much better than I imagine it might have back in the day. No noticeable adjuncts in this one, just a clean, well-done German-style pilsner (although I think it veers a little into Dortmunder territory). A very quaffable brew, and at only $3.49 per 22 oz. bottle, a pretty good price as well.

April Arrivals

2007-04-04T16:40:00.000-07:00

All kinds of new stuff at the market this week...

Beer:
Cleveland's Great Lakes Brewing is FINALLY bottling the Commodore Perry IPA year-round, and the first batch hit the shelves today. Spicy and bitter up front, with a hint of malt sweetness in the finish, it's one of the best India Pale Ales you'll find anywhere, and at a special price of $6.99 per six-pack, get to the market NOW and pick some up!

Three Floyds Rabid Rabbit Saison would make a great Easter gift for the beer lover in your life. A 22 oz. bottle of spicy, herbal, sweet and bitter goodness, it's one heck of a beer. The Rabbit is only available for a limited time - when it's gone, it'll probably be gone until next year.

If you like big, barrel-aged brews (a newer trend in craft brewing), then you're sure to enjoy Left Hand Brewing's Oak-Aged Imperial Stout. Flavors of coffee, vanilla, and bitter chocolate abound in this gem.

Wine:
I'm often asked to recommend an inexpensive, but good, Italian Red that'll pair well with pasta and red meats, yet will drink great on its own. There are lots of nice values out there in this category, but one of the better ones I've had recently is the 2003 Villa Puccini Tuscan Red, which just arrived here at the market. Medium-bodied with a nice finish, it scored 86 points and is rated as a Wine Spectator best-buy. At only $11.99 a bottle, it's a heck of a deal.

Another must-try is the 2005 Dr. Loosen (Dr. L) Riesling. '05 is shaping up to be a classic vintage for German Rieslings, and at $14.99 per bottle, the Dr. L exhibits wonderful lemon, apricot and peach flavors that would pair well with seafood, lamb, turkey, or it'll drink great on its own.

Magic Hat

2007-03-31T10:50:00.000-07:00

Coming this Monday, we'll finally have beers from the Magic Hat brewery here at the market. Now available for the first time in Ohio are the Circus Boy Hefeweizen, an unfiltered Bavarian-style wheat beer, H.I.P.A., a spicy, hoppy India Pale Ale, and Magic Hat's flagship brew #9. The 9 is a pale ale with a slight hint of apricot, and is a great thirst quencher on a warm spring afternoon. We'll also have "Joe's Garage", a mixed 12-pack, containg four bottles each of the above three flavors. Vermont-based Magic Hat is renowned throughout New England for their eclectic marketing and quality beers - enjoy some next week!

The definitive sign that Spring is here...

2007-03-27T08:31:00.000-07:00

...is the arrival of Bell's Oberon. At $8.99 a sixer, this is one of the finest Spring/Summer ales anywhere. A wheat ale with a moderate hop presence, this is one tasty brew. Pick some up today!

Also new to the market this week is an incredible California Zinfandel. At $21.99 a bottle, the Four Vines Sophisticate is a rich, fruit-driven Zin that recently received a 92-point rating from Wine Spectator. A great wine at a great price.

I caught you a delicious Bass.

2007-03-21T07:50:00.000-07:00

Dirt cheap Bass Ale. One of our distributors has discontinued the 4-pack 16oz. Bass cans, and we're now selling them for only $14.99 per case (24 16 oz. cans). That's about $.62 per can. Stock up while they last!

March Madness

2007-03-20T14:01:00.000-07:00

It's crazy at the market these days, with dozens of new beers and wines coming every week! Check out some of the latest (and greatest) for your next basketball party:

Beer
Springtime beers are starting to blossom, and we've got a few already: Dominion Spring Brew, Red Hook Copperhook, and one of my favorites, Dogfish Head Aprihop - an IPA brewed with a touch of Apricots. Great Lakes Blackout Stout is finally here as well; a smooth, roasty imperial stout from Cleveland. Other beers that have hit the market in the last few weeks include: Stoudt's Honey MaiBock, Clipper City Holy Sheet (nice Belgian Abbey-style ale), Summit Maibock (clean, malty lager with a touch of spiciness in the finish), Sierra Nevada Bigfoot (huge, hoppy Barleywine), Widmer Hefeweizen, and Goose Island's Kilgubbin Red Ale.

Wine
The new vintage of Peirano Estate's Cabernet Sauvignon is in. The 2005 is drinking great now, with some full-bodied Lodi fruit at the core, surrounded by ample tannins. At $12.99 a bottle, it's simply one of the best Cabernet values anywhere. Also look for the Monte Antico Sangiovese, a $9.99 Italian red that is a perfect match for any pasta dish. And if you're looking for a great White wine under $20, try the new Toasted Head Russian River Chardonnay. It's $17.99, and is a near-perfect blend of light tropical fruits and creamy vanilla oakiness - great with seafood, chicken, or any cream-based dish.

Winter Storm

2007-02-28T12:25:00.000-08:00

No, not the "blizzard" we experienced a few weeks ago, but a great beer at a clearance price here at the market. From Clipper City Brewing in Baltimore, Maryland, we just received 10 cases of their Winter Storm Ale, a strong ESB that drinks more like a crisp, bitter IPA at a price of only $4.99 per six-pack ($4 off the regular price).

What's New?

2007-02-27T13:58:00.000-08:00

Wine
This week, two new bottlings of Australian Shiraz have hit the shelves at Stimmel's Market, and they are both rich, dense, powerful red wines at an affordable price. The 2005 Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa ($12.99, 750 ml) and the 2005 Pure Love Layer Cake Shiraz ($14.99, 750 ml) are ripe and ready to drink now.

Beer
Look for a new Imperial Stout this week from Illinois' Two Brothers brewery; the "Northwind" ($4.99, 22 oz) is a big, brawny stout that is perfect to keep you warm as Winter churns on. Also, the Great Lakes variety 12 packs are back, and at only $12.99, are a heck of a deal. Get them before they're gone again!